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[Discussion] DRZ 400 SM


Go to solution Solved by exygon,

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Posted
u can also go for the motomaster rotor kit..320mm kit with the relocator. or the Braking set up..check out motostrano.com or sisneros speed works for options available for the zee..

before u start with the upgrades, check ur brake fluid condition and brake pads, they might need change and u prob might feel the stock is gd enuff after changing them. .cheers..if u go to motovation at paya lebar theyre having a gd deal for their braking set up with free pair of pads thrown it..check them out at the advertisers board..

 

Thanks for the advice. Am going to try EBC first but definitely will want a better system. Had also tried increasing the compression damping to take out a bit of the spongy feeling.

 

The Braking caliper is also a floating one. I'm not paying big money for a blink up version of an outdated technology. Motomaster may seem a more sensible option. Been talking to motostrano and am tempted towards the beringer 6-pot :) They claim it works with the stock 310. Slightly cheaper than the full brembo setup, and the slightly bigger rotor and radial mount didn't seem worthwhile compare to the cost of the 4-pot beringer.

 

Just looking around for other options that I have yet found.

Posted
Welcome another brother to hooliganism. You'll enjoy the bike definitely!go over to his facebook page for latest info man. He puts his stuff up there...

 

 

Ride safe people!!

 

Thank you, much appreciated. Yep I've visited and read the page already!

 

mods to the zee is somewhat endless depending on how far u will go..for a start u should go for a full system instead of end can,the stock header is the one restricting the bike.. raptor has leo vince system that is worth the money unless u wana go for the yoshi tri cone or tri oval (more costly $1880)..after change the system ure right on with the PAIR removal, 3x3, airfilter plus rejet the bike. the bike comes factory lean so if u dun rejet, the mods u do prob gives u alot of backfiring..

 

well if u wana go further and wheelie ard freely there is always FCR39mx,then go for the hotcams then the big bore and stroker kit..hehe well, i guess that is much further down the road..that way its the most enjoyable bike u will have not to mention so much fun..if ure a heavy dude i suggest throwing some cash into the suspension for better handling else the stock can be tune to ur needs just fine.. be prepared to be poisoned when u go to raptors, too many fun stuffs hanging ard begging u to put them on ur bike..:thumb:

 

All these mods sound so good, but are so painful to the wallet. I'm gonna drop by Raptor to check it out and perhaps glean some information! Probably gonna do the basic mods I mentioned only, don't want to mess the bike up with a big bore kit. Might cause problems from what I've read. Probably have to spend some money doing the suspension to fit me cause I'm big haha.

 

IMHO, stock till u feel the lust for more power. In this way u wont get bored fast :)

 

Thank you for the advice! My past 3 bikes were liter bikes so it was an informed decision to get the DRZ, better fuel economy and cheaper servicing costs compared to them. I know what to expect so I won't ask for too much also haha.

Posted

yeah i spend quite a bit on my suspension both front and back, mainly resprung according to my weight..im a big guy too..

if u get the right person to set it up, the difference in handling is night and day,i assure u..if u wan a professional RACETECH certified guy to do this for u, PM me, i can give u his contact..he does a really good job for me.some shops just anyhow set for u but when u talk to him u get wat i mean..cheers

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Posted
Hi Raptor. I have recently purchased a new 2012 DRZ and have yet to do anything to it. May I know if Raptor Motorsports does a hard running in, or is it even necessary? If not, how do I run in bike in properly?

 

Also, may I know what modifications you would recommend me to do? I have poured through the FAQ and so far I've settled on the axle sliders to protect the bike and regreasing for the parts that might suffer a bit more wear and tear. I'm planning to get a endcan too, do you have one for sale?

 

Lastly, after I have changed the endcan, I have to (i) remove the PAIR system, (ii) derestrict air flow with 3x3 air box mod, (iii) rejet the carb to adjust A/F ratio? Do I have anything else to do? I wish to change to a K&N air filter too. What I plan to do is to tweak the bike for maximum performance and enjoyability. Hope to hear from you soon. Thank you.

 

Call me at 96661159 after 11 AM.

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Posted
yeah i spend quite a bit on my suspension both front and back, mainly resprung according to my weight..im a big guy too..

if u get the right person to set it up, the difference in handling is night and day,i assure u..if u wan a professional RACETECH certified guy to do this for u, PM me, i can give u his contact..he does a really good job for me.some shops just anyhow set for u but when u talk to him u get wat i mean..cheers

 

Okay! May I know how much you spent on the suspension please? Need to start setting monies aside for all the poisonous modifications to be made. Yes I would appreciate that very much, thank you. Will send you a PM.

 

Call me at 96661159 after 11 AM.

 

Okay I just sent you a text message. Will call you tomorrow! Thank you.

 

Hey bro qeith..u may wana try racewerk in bukit merah for hard running in..they use dyno for it..did mine there when I bought my bike...can't rmb how much it cost tho..hope this helps..

 

Hi. Okay sure, thank you very much. May I ask if this is recommended? I've never done this before for any of my previous bikes, but I'm interested to learn.

Posted

Hi. Okay sure, thank you very much. May I ask if this is recommended? I've never done this before for any of my previous bikes, but I'm interested to learn.

 

Save the time & effort on normal running-in, pistons set in better in a controlled environment using a dyno machine

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Posted
Save the time & effort on normal running-in, pistons set in better in a controlled environment using a dyno machine

 

Okay got it. This is different from dyno right? As in, to tune the bike.

Posted
Okay got it. This is different from dyno right? As in, to tune the bike.

 

Yeap, its different.

 

Dyno-run dun tune the bike, its obtaining the mapping for the Power commander.

Yamaha RXZ, Kawasaki ZX KR150, Yamaha Spark135, Honda CB400 REVO NC42, Suzuki DRZ400SMK8, Aprilia RS125, Suzuki GSXR600K9, Honda RS150R

Click on the bike models for Information/Servicing/Maintenance on Kawasaki KR150, Honda CB400 Revo, Suzuki DRZ400SM and Suzuki GSXR

 

Facebook HONDA CB400 REVO

 

Can't post a new thread ?? Read HERE

 

SBF Garage Sales Act ---> Read HERE

Posted
Yeap, its different.

 

Dyno-run dun tune the bike, its obtaining the mapping for the Power commander.

 

Forgive my ignorance, but unless we install PC for the DRZ, dyno-run is of no use right? Or we can't even do it. Thanks!

Posted
Forgive my ignorance, but unless we install PC for the DRZ, dyno-run is of no use right? Or we can't even do it. Thanks!

 

PC is for those EFI bikes where you cannot tune anything unless using a piggybag system attached to the ECU like PC.

 

DRZ is running on carb which tuning is done much more easier using jettings.

 

Raptor does a great job in DRZ, do look for him yea :)

Yamaha RXZ, Kawasaki ZX KR150, Yamaha Spark135, Honda CB400 REVO NC42, Suzuki DRZ400SMK8, Aprilia RS125, Suzuki GSXR600K9, Honda RS150R

Click on the bike models for Information/Servicing/Maintenance on Kawasaki KR150, Honda CB400 Revo, Suzuki DRZ400SM and Suzuki GSXR

 

Facebook HONDA CB400 REVO

 

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Posted

Bros..urgent help needed on the DRZ!!

 

Halfway riding my speedo started flashing and showing all the funny number 8's all over..keeps blinking and flashing, from funny number 8's and back to the normal display of speedo and odo. After i stop the bike, it cant start..starter button, horn, lights all not working..had to push start....

 

Is it a normal tell tall of speedo module failure? got any temporary fix or is it now really time for a Vapor TrailTech...bearing in mind gotta push start tomorrow morning to work!!

 

All help appreciated!!!

Ride fast..ride safe..don't crash...

Posted
Bros..urgent help needed on the DRZ!!

 

Halfway riding my speedo started flashing and showing all the funny number 8's all over..keeps blinking and flashing, from funny number 8's and back to the normal display of speedo and odo. After i stop the bike, it cant start..starter button, horn, lights all not working..had to push start....

 

Is it a normal tell tall of speedo module failure? got any temporary fix or is it now really time for a Vapor TrailTech...bearing in mind gotta push start tomorrow morning to work!!

 

All help appreciated!!!

 

From what you are saying... it is possible that the bike battery is not able to hold its charge anymore.

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Posted
Hi guys. What petrol grade are you all using? 92/95/98?

 

The amount of mods affect which I should choose too right?

 

I believe that 92 can be used as well, but personally I use grade95 90% of the time, and grade98 when I feel like pampering myself and the bike.

2006 - 2008 // Honda NSR150SP

2008 - 2009 // Honda CBR400RRN

2009 - 2009 // Honda RVF400

2009 - 2011 // Yamaha X1R

2011 - 20xx // Suzuki DRZ-400SM

Posted
From what you are saying... it is possible that the bike battery is not able to hold its charge anymore.

 

Hi boss..thanks for the quick reply. I take into account what you've suggested, will check the voltage tomorrow. just for info battery is six months old, bike i used everyday. Normally when u turn they key to ON, at least the lights will come on or horn can sound(if not weakly) and when crank at least got some "tick" noises..this one nothing happened at all.Im just wondering if a kaput-ed speedo will cause the current from the ignition not reaching the starter motor?

 

Might head down to your place to get a TrailTech, seems like quite an adventure putting it together DIY..heehee..

 

Thanks!!

Ride fast..ride safe..don't crash...

Posted
Hi boss..thanks for the quick reply. I take into account what you've suggested, will check the voltage tomorrow. just for info battery is six months old, bike i used everyday. Normally when u turn they key to ON, at least the lights will come on or horn can sound(if not weakly) and when crank at least got some "tick" noises..this one nothing happened at all.Im just wondering if a kaput-ed speedo will cause the current from the ignition not reaching the starter motor?

 

Might head down to your place to get a TrailTech, seems like quite an adventure putting it together DIY..heehee..

 

Thanks!!

 

i think if no sound no light means batt is dead..its helps if u install a voltmeter in the future so u can agak2 see wats happening..could also prob be the rectifier or the stator coil..well, thats wat i kena on my husky some time ago..gd luck!

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Posted
Hi guys. What petrol grade are you all using? 92/95/98?

 

The amount of mods affect which I should choose too right?

 

def try not to use 92.. i always use 98 then there a a period i tried experimenting to 95, i feel the bike abit more sluggish and eating more petrol than norm so after a month i switch back to 98 and mileage is back up again..got to do with combustion with the higher octanes..errrr mr raptor can enlightened u i think in the scientific aspect of this since he deals with petrol eating jet planes in his hey days..heh :angel:

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Posted

I have been using 95/98 for alternate pump since I gotten my Zee 1.5 months ago, so far so good for consumption & power. Btw, I always pump about 6 liters after traveling about 170km.

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@ Kampong Ubi Driving Centre

Class 4 - 19/11/1999

@ Pan Country Driving Centre

Class 2B - 28/01/2005

@ Singapore Safety Driving Centre

Class 2A - 15/02/2011

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Posted
i think if no sound no light means batt is dead..its helps if u install a voltmeter in the future so u can agak2 see wats happening..could also prob be the rectifier or the stator coil..well, thats wat i kena on my husky some time ago..gd luck!

 

Guys. Thanks for the advice. Think I found the problem. Bike running, battery voltage only reading 10 V. Zzzz.Money spent...again.

 

 

Ride safe people!!

Ride fast..ride safe..don't crash...

Posted
Guys. Thanks for the advice. Think I found the problem. Bike running, battery voltage only reading 10 V. Zzzz.Money spent...again.

 

 

Ride safe people!!

 

I just changed my stator coil & rectifier 2 weeks ago too. Buying a peace of mind for the next few years.

Class 3 - 22/11/1996

@ Kampong Ubi Driving Centre

Class 4 - 19/11/1999

@ Pan Country Driving Centre

Class 2B - 28/01/2005

@ Singapore Safety Driving Centre

Class 2A - 15/02/2011

@ Comfort Driving Centre

Class 2 - 17/02/2014

@ Comfort Driving Centre

Posted

Any grade of fuel in south east Asia can be used on DRZ.. It can go as low as Ron 87 as it's not on high compression..

 

Unless you changed the cams, big bore or strokes kit, minimal Ron 95/98 will be applicable..

 

IMO, petrol powers the bike, it GST burned up.. No matter what fuel you used also burn..

As long as your engine dun ping, it'll be alright..

 

Yes, you do get more power with higher Ron and more expensive fuel, but it's a long running cost.. Petrol ain't cheap.. I used Ron 95 all the way when I had my DRZ.. no problems of engine etc..

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