Honda Blackbird CBR1100 XX

[MiddleAgedBiker]

So they will give us a test ride first with the Recondition ecu first b4 buying it...??

 

How about our old ecm, do they accept trade-in...?

 

Pls do pm me ur no. so that i can get more information on it, and most probably will go for it...!

 

Hi bro, yes can test ride to test first, if it doesn't fix the problem, no worries. Sent you a PM.

[MiddleAgedBiker]

hi all fellow bbians.

 

Is the FI version of BB really that problem matic? I mean i always thought bb are really bullet proof bikes around despite the age, but seems like people keep telling me about the ECU and FI sometimes keeps screwing up?

 

so whats the down sides and up sides for owning a bb (carb and ECU vers) ? and btw how much is the yearly rd tax huh? was looking at BB but seems like these few factors are giving me 2nd thoughts?

 

I won't say it's problematic 'cos it's only one problem. Have owned my bike for 4-5 yrs and it's only this one issue I've ever encountered. Consider the ECU a wear and tear unit, they last about 7-8 years in our weather conditions. If you owned a carbed bike you also go and wash carbs, every year have to service also. Jets, needles and diaphragms also wear in time, so it's about the same in the long run la.

 

I guess you hear a lot about this because most of the birds in S'pore are either reaching or past the age where it needs to be replaced, and some folks never replace but unplug the FI light bulb to sell the bike which further compounds the problem, making more and more bikes have this blinking problem which never gets fixed.

 

The bird is a great bike. Engine is super smooth and vibe free, it's fast, corners ok, generally very problem free, and will take all kinds of luggages without greatly affecting the handling.

 

I like the ECU version 'cos it compensates for altitude/humidity when you go touring. It will perform the same no matter where you ride 'cos the computer controls the spark advance and fuel metering precisely.

 

The greatest advantage of ECU is the knock detection circuit. Your engine will last a long time and be in excellent condition because of this. Very little damage from engine knocking, or wrong tuning. My 10 yr old bike's engine sounds very tight and is very smooth and vibration free, machiam like turbine. One challenge from buying a carbed bike is that you never know what the previous owners did to modify the carbs. Changed jets, changed needles, mixture screw setting, float height, etc. etc. A lot of things can be messed with and if not tuned correctly will damage the engine from a too lean mixture (overheat, knocking, etc.) I experienced this with a previous bike I owned, the jetting was not set correctly when I bought the bike, worse different carb had different jet sizes.

 

ECU bikes also have precise and idiot-proof troubleshooting diagnostics, using the error code system. If something is not right or working properly on the bike, it tells you. I think these are the major advantages for me on a fuel injected bike.

 

Bird is a great bike, most people keep them for many years. I don't think you'll regret it.

 

Rd tax is $168 for 6 months if I remember correctly.

[greysnail]

Fi bikes are capable of detecting faults unlike carb where the mech have to diagnose it using his tech know how.Most of the advantages goes to Fi bikes.Carbs are powerful while Fi are smart bikes.

[whyzee]

I won't say it's problematic 'cos it's only one problem. Have owned my bike for 4-5 yrs and it's only this one issue I've ever encountered. Consider the ECU a wear and tear unit, they last about 7-8 years in our weather conditions. If you owned a carbed bike you also go and wash carbs, every year have to service also. Jets, needles and diaphragms also wear in time, so it's about the same in the long run la.

 

I guess you hear a lot about this because most of the birds in S'pore are either reaching or past the age where it needs to be replaced, and some folks never replace but unplug the FI light bulb to sell the bike which further compounds the problem, making more and more bikes have this blinking problem which never gets fixed.

 

The bird is a great bike. Engine is super smooth and vibe free, it's fast, corners ok, generally very problem free, and will take all kinds of luggages without greatly affecting the handling.

 

I like the ECU version 'cos it compensates for altitude/humidity when you go touring. It will perform the same no matter where you ride 'cos the computer controls the spark advance and fuel metering precisely.

 

The greatest advantage of ECU is the knock detection circuit. Your engine will last a long time and be in excellent condition because of this. Very little damage from engine knocking, or wrong tuning. My 10 yr old bike's engine sounds very tight and is very smooth and vibration free, machiam like turbine. One challenge from buying a carbed bike is that you never know what the previous owners did to modify the carbs. Changed jets, changed needles, mixture screw setting, float height, etc. etc. A lot of things can be messed with and if not tuned correctly will damage the engine from a too lean mixture (overheat, knocking, etc.) I experienced this with a previous bike I owned, the jetting was not set correctly when I bought the bike, worse different carb had different jet sizes.

 

ECU bikes also have precise and idiot-proof troubleshooting diagnostics, using the error code system. If something is not right or working properly on the bike, it tells you. I think these are the major advantages for me on a fuel injected bike.

 

Bird is a great bike, most people keep them for many years. I don't think you'll regret it.

 

Rd tax is $168 for 6 months if I remember correctly.

 

well said.... really someone who know the bb very well.

 

anyway, I totally agree with MiddleagedBiker, bbird is an old bike (last production model = 2007), so if you get any now, it's definitely have gone through well and tear. But that aside, if well take care of, the engine will still be very strong and healthy.

 

Except for this ECU, knock sensor thingy, I find that the bike is very easy to maintain, and if you do take proper care of it, almost maintenance free.

 

But well, anyway, I'm still looking for a comfortable seat/design. Anyone got any idea? Those melboy saddle or corbin design, though are very nice and comfort, but are not able to let my pillion share seat with me when I'm going fast. So, though comfortable, I can't go too fast with pillion. Any opinions on this?

[whyzee]

btw, anyone got any spare seat to sell, or know where to get one? I wanna buy one...

[MiddleAgedBiker]

Can try ebay bro...

[rocksteady]

Hi bro, yes can test ride to test first, if it doesn't fix the problem, no worries. Sent you a PM.

 

Bro tiz ting is available locally or overseas? Wat if it doesnt work n they dun mean wat they said abt e warranty

[Cpt.ZR]

I won't say it's problematic 'cos it's only one problem. Have owned my bike for 4-5 yrs and it's only this one issue I've ever encountered. Consider the ECU a wear and tear unit, they last about 7-8 years in our weather conditions. If you owned a carbed bike you also go and wash carbs, every year have to service also. Jets, needles and diaphragms also wear in time, so it's about the same in the long run la.

 

I guess you hear a lot about this because most of the birds in S'pore are either reaching or past the age where it needs to be replaced, and some folks never replace but unplug the FI light bulb to sell the bike which further compounds the problem, making more and more bikes have this blinking problem which never gets fixed.

 

The bird is a great bike. Engine is super smooth and vibe free, it's fast, corners ok, generally very problem free, and will take all kinds of luggages without greatly affecting the handling.

 

I like the ECU version 'cos it compensates for altitude/humidity when you go touring. It will perform the same no matter where you ride 'cos the computer controls the spark advance and fuel metering precisely.

 

The greatest advantage of ECU is the knock detection circuit. Your engine will last a long time and be in excellent condition because of this. Very little damage from engine knocking, or wrong tuning. My 10 yr old bike's engine sounds very tight and is very smooth and vibration free, machiam like turbine. One challenge from buying a carbed bike is that you never know what the previous owners did to modify the carbs. Changed jets, changed needles, mixture screw setting, float height, etc. etc. A lot of things can be messed with and if not tuned correctly will damage the engine from a too lean mixture (overheat, knocking, etc.) I experienced this with a previous bike I owned, the jetting was not set correctly when I bought the bike, worse different carb had different jet sizes.

 

ECU bikes also have precise and idiot-proof troubleshooting diagnostics, using the error code system. If something is not right or working properly on the bike, it tells you. I think these are the major advantages for me on a fuel injected bike.

 

Bird is a great bike, most people keep them for many years. I don't think you'll regret it.

 

Rd tax is $168 for 6 months if I remember correctly.

 

hmm copy that ... i see like u have great faith in BBird. hahahaa... last time i say a 97 cam model, the road tax is like 404$ in a year. i nearly died.

[rocksteady]

Road tax is $158 for 6 mths now

[KING32]

a second hand bike has always its wear and tear...so its quite normal...i spent like arnd 2k to do top overhaul and changed the ecu...now i'm stress free..hahah...if u wan perfect then u save up abit n get a new bike...but if u like BB and dun care abt the maintainence den go for it...for the ecu thing i'm not sure whether this is true or not...mech say BB are the most straight forward when comes to fault code...for other bike models when the FI light lights up u may need to change 3 or more parts...but i'm not too sure abt this...

 

Isn't Reconditioned ecu are more like an aftermarket ecu?....so are u very sure that all electronics like the fan and etc can work?...i got info from mech abt other ecu rather than original..said that sumtimes when fixed these things dun work properly unless i dun mind...thats why i get the original one even though it can last me arnd 5 to 8yrs...juz my perspective...

[BodilyPartsOnTheRoad]

hmm copy that ... i see like u have great faith in BBird. hahahaa... last time i say a 97 cam model, the road tax is like 404$ in a year. i nearly died.

 

$404 Per year is without rebate. do note that as the bird gone pass its 10yr aniversary, the road tax will increase as well. (to Max 150% at 15th yr).

[MiddleAgedBiker]

a second hand bike has always its wear and tear...so its quite normal...i spent like arnd 2k to do top overhaul and changed the ecu...now i'm stress free..hahah...if u wan perfect then u save up abit n get a new bike...but if u like BB and dun care abt the maintainence den go for it...for the ecu thing i'm not sure whether this is true or not...mech say BB are the most straight forward when comes to fault code...for other bike models when the FI light lights up u may need to change 3 or more parts...but i'm not too sure abt this...

 

Isn't Reconditioned ecu are more like an aftermarket ecu?....so are u very sure that all electronics like the fan and etc can work?...i got info from mech abt other ecu rather than original..said that sumtimes when fixed these things dun work properly unless i dun mind...thats why i get the original one even though it can last me arnd 5 to 8yrs...juz my perspective...

 

no, a recon ECU is not an aftermarket ECU.

 

A recon ECU is where automotive engineers take a stock original Honda blackbird non-functioning ECU, open it up to test it to locate the fault, replace the faulty component, and in the case of this supplier, upgrade it to a higher spec resistor/capacitor/chip/transistor/whatever that has gone bad so the problem doesn't reccur, then they plug it into an engine simulator that simulates all the inputs on the bike including all the sensors, 58x crank signal, cam signal, etc, and the outputs, spark advance, fuel injection timing and period, etc, and they run a whole battery of tests on it before selling it.

 

An aftermarket ECU will not cost $1k bro. AFAIK aftermarket ECUs start from $3k and above, and it comes with a blank fuel/ignition map. You have to program everything in it (it's a whole lot more than fuel and ignition), and it's only applicable for fully customized racing bikes built from the ground up. I don't know of any sane person who would fix an aftermarket ECU on a factory bike.

 

They're two very different things bro.

[man simei]

bro sujak when is the next meet up since we have new friends.

[KING32]

no, a recon ECU is not an aftermarket ECU.

 

A recon ECU is where automotive engineers take a stock original Honda blackbird non-functioning ECU, open it up to test it to locate the fault, replace the faulty component, and in the case of this supplier, upgrade it to a higher spec resistor/capacitor/chip/transistor/whatever that has gone bad so the problem doesn't reccur, then they plug it into an engine simulator that simulates all the inputs on the bike including all the sensors, 58x crank signal, cam signal, etc, and the outputs, spark advance, fuel injection timing and period, etc, and they run a whole battery of tests on it before selling it.

 

An aftermarket ECU will not cost $1k bro. AFAIK aftermarket ECUs start from $3k and above, and it comes with a blank fuel/ignition map. You have to program everything in it (it's a whole lot more than fuel and ignition), and it's only applicable for fully customized racing bikes built from the ground up. I don't know of any sane person who would fix an aftermarket ECU on a factory bike.

 

They're two very different things bro.

 

ahh...icic...but i got the original one...at ebay got sell this dyna2000 cdi/ignition...anybody knows abt it?...quite cheap though...

[MiddleAgedBiker]

Ya heard of it, I think they cater mainly to Harleys. It's an ignition module that controls electronically when the spark plugs fire. Modern carbed bikes have these modules too (the old carbed bikes have what's called mechanical points ignition systems). All modern carbed bikes use this, I think in S'pore they call it a CDI.

[penyu]

In my humble opinion.....the bb ecu is a work of engineering and seldom it will spoil or be faulty.....my personal experience is when there is the blinking issues get the manual and rectify the diagnostic......the only upgrade could be done on the ecu is to place a power commander tht piggy backs the ecu....in lame mans term....the ecu can be program to suit your riding needs.....i believe if the bb is heavily modded example big bore with cams modification advancer retarded and change in compression ratio then it requires an aftermarket ecu.....other than tht the stock is sufficient to handle the electronics......if speed is the main factor tht u are looking for then a good full system with unapprove end cans is what you need.....again the simple theory of power weigh ratio applies.....you make the bb light....the more power you are gonna get from the engine......no need fancy ignition system or ecu to do the job......get back to basic engineering.....make the bike breath n exhale better u will get a better bike.....trust me on this its been done and proven........no doubt bout it......enjoy.......

[JbAtRaCeR]

if speed is the main factor tht u are looking for then a good full system with unapprove end cans is what you need.....

 

 

Still remember what bro greysnal told be "yang haram tu selalu the best"....Another way to make the bird lighter is to get race wheels from galespeed...

 

Cheap mods i can share with you guys is to tape up the airbox with aluminum foil tape...This shields your airbox from the engine heat thus reducing the air temp inside your airbox on a heaty sunny day while riding at trunk roads in malaysia...

[penyu]

Now tht what i call a cheap mod....n the idea is to make the air as cool or cold as possible coz cold air means its compressed more and equals to better combustion which means more power to the engine....n thts the reason turbo charge air have to go into a intercooler before its get resalvage by the turbo turbine into your combustion chamber.....simple engineering to power......anyway if its illegal there are always a reason behind coz if they make it legal....the tp are gonna have a hell time to catch up with a 70kmh bb on mountbatten rd near esso geylang......hehehehhehe jb u should know who i am talking about.......

Still remember what bro greysnal told be "yang haram tu selalu the best"....Another way to make the bird lighter is to get race wheels from galespeed...

 

Cheap mods i can share with you guys is to tape up the airbox with aluminum foil tape...This shields your airbox from the engine heat thus reducing the air temp inside your airbox on a heaty sunny day while riding at trunk roads in malaysia...

[penyu]

Now tht what i call a cheap mod....n the idea is to make the air as cool or cold as possible coz cold air means its compressed more and equals to better combustion which means more power to the engine....n thts the reason turbo charge air have to go into a intercooler before its get resalvage by the turbo turbine into your combustion chamber.....simple engineering to power......anyway if its illegal there are always a reason behind coz if they make it legal....the tp are gonna have a hell time to catch up with a 70kmh bb on mountbatten rd near esso geylang......hehehehhehe jb u should know who i am talking about.......

Still remember what bro greysnal told be "yang haram tu selalu the best"....Another way to make the bird lighter is to get race wheels from galespeed...

 

Cheap mods i can share with you guys is to tape up the airbox with aluminum foil tape...This shields your airbox from the engine heat thus reducing the air temp inside your airbox on a heaty sunny day while riding at trunk roads in malaysia...

[greysnail]

Now tht what i call a cheap mod....n the idea is to make the air as cool or cold as possible coz cold air means its compressed more and equals to better combustion which means more power to the engine....n thts the reason turbo charge air have to go into a intercooler before its get resalvage by the turbo turbine into your combustion chamber.....simple engineering to power......anyway if its illegal there are always a reason behind coz if they make it legal....the tp are gonna have a hell time to catch up with a 70kmh bb on mountbatten rd near esso geylang......hehehehhehe jb u should know who i am talking about.......

 

 

Suddenly i feel so........*Confused*.....hehehehehehehe

[bluewitch]

In my humble opinion.....the bb ecu is a work of engineering and seldom it will spoil or be faulty.....my personal experience is when there is the blinking issues get the manual and rectify the diagnostic......the only upgrade could be done on the ecu is to place a power commander tht piggy backs the ecu....in lame mans term....the ecu can be program to suit your riding needs.....i believe if the bb is heavily modded example big bore with cams modification advancer retarded and change in compression ratio then it requires an aftermarket ecu.....other than tht the stock is sufficient to handle the electronics......if speed is the main factor tht u are looking for then a good full system with unapprove end cans is what you need.....again the simple theory of power weigh ratio applies.....you make the bb light....the more power you are gonna get from the engine......no need fancy ignition system or ecu to do the job......get back to basic engineering.....make the bike breath n exhale better u will get a better bike.....trust me on this its been done and proven........no doubt bout it......enjoy.......

 

Bro TuRtLe..

 

Need some help and advice again from u, my bike came out with the 25 blink thing.

 

The last time after u got it fix, what was ur fuel comsumption like...??

 

As normal BB average was gettin 270-280 then the resreved bar will start to blink.

 

My 25 problem giving me a shock, as the first time it came out there was a slight jerking.

 

After reseting it, then after a few km ride, the Fi light came out again, again 25 was the error code, now still waiting few more days to monitor as tonight the light Fi light never flash out after doing the re-setting.

 

Went to 1 of the Pro mechanic, he told me that the ECU kaput..advice me to get a new ecu for replacement.

 

(After having the Fi light pop out, this are few things happen, my timming will shoot to 1.5rpm, normally was 1.2-1.3. Feel loss of power a bit, and it seems that the bird is thirsty also, after traveling 80km, 1 fuel bar gone, normally getting 150km for 1 bar.

 

 

Haiiizzz..

[bluewitch]

no, a recon ECU is not an aftermarket ECU.

 

A recon ECU is where automotive engineers take a stock original Honda blackbird non-functioning ECU, open it up to test it to locate the fault, replace the faulty component, and in the case of this supplier, upgrade it to a higher spec resistor/capacitor/chip/transistor/whatever that has gone bad so the problem doesn't reccur, then they plug it into an engine simulator that simulates all the inputs on the bike including all the sensors, 58x crank signal, cam signal, etc, and the outputs, spark advance, fuel injection timing and period, etc, and they run a whole battery of tests on it before selling it.

 

An aftermarket ECU will not cost $1k bro. AFAIK aftermarket ECUs start from $3k and above, and it comes with a blank fuel/ignition map. You have to program everything in it (it's a whole lot more than fuel and ignition), and it's only applicable for fully customized racing bikes built from the ground up. I don't know of any sane person who would fix an aftermarket ECU on a factory bike.

 

They're two very different things bro.

 

Bro, i've alredy check with Boon Siew agent for HONDA, he told me that all BB ecu have a different serial no, and not all are compatiable, for replacing, need to get the exact serial no, cause the ECU configuration same with the ignition HISS, otherwise need to get those 1 set(consist ECU, HISS ignition, and keys)

[rocksteady]

Bro TuRtLe..

 

Need some help and advice again from u, my bike came out with the 25 blink thing.

 

The last time after u got it fix, what was ur fuel comsumption like...??

 

As normal BB average was gettin 270-280 then the resreved bar will start to blink.

 

My 25 problem giving me a shock, as the first time it came out there was a slight jerking.

 

After reseting it, then after a few km ride, the Fi light came out again, again 25 was the error code, now still waiting few more days to monitor as tonight the light Fi light never flash out after doing the re-setting.

 

Went to 1 of the Pro mechanic, he told me that the ECU kaput..advice me to get a new ecu for replacement.

 

(After having the Fi light pop out, this are few things happen, my timming will shoot to 1.5rpm, normally was 1.2-1.3. Feel loss of power a bit, and it seems that the bird is thirsty also, after traveling 80km, 1 fuel bar gone, normally getting 150km for 1 bar.

 

 

Haiiizzz..

Bro how to reset it n wer is the ecu located? I gonna try all means before committed to changing one.

[penyu]

Anyone interested to buy my ohlins shock?shock have been dekit and been rebuilt and service at hkl.....like brand new condition fits all year bb and goin at 1.2k nego.....brand new retail at 1.8k......so anyone interested text me at 94357587.....the slow turtle

[sujak]

anybody wanna meet up.. text me..