2 new Yuasa battery die within 4 days

[none]

Has anyone experience this sort of problem?

 

Bought a new Yuasa YTZ14S on Monday, it measure 12.6v before installation.

After getting it installed onto my bike, measured voltage was only 10v.

(My VFR electrical are fully stock expect for a voltmeter and radiator fan bypass switch)

Bike couldn't started at all. Use a tickle charger to charge it, couldn't even charge it.

Dead on installation.

 

Went down to replace with another new one. (same batch number i think)

Battery running ok for 3 days. Last night, tried to start it, battery is dead again. Left me stranded in my office.

Voltage only 10v. This morning took it off the bike and try to tickle charge it, not working.

 

Bike running voltage was around 13.8 to 14.4v. It is now running on my old battery.

Talk to the distributor, he was pushing the blame onto my bike charging.

Ask me to check my bike first.

 

I tried to explain my situation to them, seems like the 2 uncles are not really technical competent. Where should I go from here?

[Hydher]

It is fine when running on your same old battery?

 

Are the specs the same?

After pouring in the water, did you wait before closing the lid of the battery?

Dont think battery comes with a warranty.

 

Few options,

buy a battery charger that can check the condition of the battery eg. oxford charger from motoworld ~$60

Buy your battery from a different supplier or bike shop.

 

Is the battery bought exactly the same as your old one?

Is your voltmeter running 24/7?

How much was the running voltage on that 3 days?

Edited July 16, 2011 by Hydher

[ezzyoiler]

go to case..but fees is $25...or the wholsaer/agent..

the retailer ..i wont patronise them again..

[ProFatSir]

Is the battery original?

[none]

It is fine when running on your same old battery?

My old battery Yuasa YTZ12S has been running fine for the past 18months.

 

Are the specs the same?

YTZ14S has the same size but larger capacity than YTZ12S, both can be use on my VFR.

 

After pouring in the water, did you wait before closing the lid of the battery?

MF battery, no need to pour water

 

Dont think battery comes with a warranty.

 

Few options,

 

 

buy a battery charger that can check the condition of the battery eg. oxford charger from motoworld ~$60

Buy your battery from a different supplier or bike shop.

I tried using my own battery charger and also went back to my mechanic shop to use their charger. Both failed to charge the 2nd new battery. Voltage drop to 10-11v after 15mins

 

 

Is the battery bought exactly the same as your old one?

Is your voltmeter running 24/7?

How much was the running voltage on that 3 days?

As above, not the same but for this model I had used on my bike before with no problems. I just attached my voltage to my bike earlier today. The whole day of running voltage is 13.8-14.5

 

Is the battery original?

The shop that I bought the battery at is Yuasa authorized distributor I think

[kano]

Obviously its not the battery. Since u changed 2 times. Check ur charging. Probably the charging source there is issue.

[terencechp73]

I recently have done alternator change out myself hv learn alot from all tell-tale sign of non-charging or battery faults.

If new battery also fail after 3days if think it could be yr charging system. common faults rectifier..Plse check if you have charging voltage after u start yr bike (13.8-14.2V)

Or Wire leakages...

[terencechp73]

I recently have done alternator change out myself hv learn alot from all tell-tale sign of non-charging or battery faults.

If new battery also fail after 3days if think it could be yr charging system. common faults rectifier..Plse check if you have charging voltage after u start yr bike (13.8-14.2V)

Or Wire leakages...

[niteblade]

rectifier problem? it killed my new battery on my old bike last time too. cannot charge so it ends up dying

[drak3st3r]

had a similar problem. chaned battery 2 times also batt keeps dying out. check ur idle voltage is 13.5 +- 0.5 and at above idling is 14.5 max.

[none]

Like I had mentioned in my first post, my charging voltage is 13.8(idle) to 14.4 (running)

If charging is the issue, why is my old battery still ok for the past 2 days?

BTW, the first new battery was dead on arrival, so nothing to do with the bike charging.

[none]

Like I had mentioned in my first post, my charging voltage is 13.8(idle) to 14.4 (running)

If charging is the issue, why is my old battery still ok for the past 2 days?

BTW, the first new battery was dead on arrival, so nothing to do with the bike charging.

[none]

Correct me if I am wrong, the only way to kill a battery is high voltage which in my case, isn't. As my running voltage is only up to 14.5v

 

If the bike is not charging, eventually the battery will become flat right.

Using a tickle charger will be able to restore the battery charge.

 

So how does it explain that after using a battery charger to fully charge the 2nd new battery, the battery voltage drops to 10-11v after 15mins?

[naim]

if ur old battery is working fine and ur charging system is constantly putting out more than 13v, i suspect its the new batteries have issues holding charge...

[MiddleAgedBiker]

You mentioned that the bike runs fine on your old battery. This means your charging system is probably not the issue. But you could easily just do a charging voltage and current test. I think you've done the charging voltage test and it went from 12+V to 14+V so it looks like voltage is fine. But you need to check charging current also, for that you'll need an inductive DC ammeter clamped to the -ve battery cable.

 

Also do check what the parasitic current draw is on the bike when the ignition is off. Disconnect the -ve batt cable, hook up an ammeter in series, set it to measure mA DC, and see what kind of values you get. Should be very very small, like 5mA to 10mA max.

 

If we can eliminate that, then it's down to battery prep and battery condition.

 

Did you prep the battery properly before using it? Most batteries need to be charged for a few hours before use, or they'll never be able to hold a full charge in their lifetime. Still, even if you didn't it shouldn't just die on you after 2 days.

 

Next, what kind of charger are you using? What's the voltage and charging current like? Bike batteries should be charged at 1/10 their Amp/hour rating, and should never exceed 2.5A. Does the charger have circuitry to ramp down the current when it detects that the battery is charged?

 

Lastly, some batteries could come with bad cells. I.e. they're defective straight from the shop. This could also be a possibility, and there are equipment to test this, but it is expensive (few thousand). Normally only dealerships have these equipment.

[bikeyroo]

TS, please check your pm.

[none]

You mentioned that the bike runs fine on your old battery. This means your charging system is probably not the issue. But you could easily just do a charging voltage and current test. I think you've done the charging voltage test and it went from 12+V to 14+V so it looks like voltage is fine. But you need to check charging current also, for that you'll need an inductive DC ammeter clamped to the -ve battery cable.

Can I use a multimeter to check the charging current?

 

Also do check what the parasitic current draw is on the bike when the ignition is off. Disconnect the -ve batt cable, hook up an ammeter in series, set it to measure mA DC, and see what kind of values you get. Should be very very small, like 5mA to 10mA max.

I dont have bike alarm, fanciful LEDs, cigarette lighter socket on my bike. The last time (about 2 years ago) I check the leakage is about 8mA. Will check again

 

If we can eliminate that, then it's down to battery prep and battery condition.

 

Did you prep the battery properly before using it? Most batteries need to be charged for a few hours before use, or they'll never be able to hold a full charge in their lifetime. Still, even if you didn't it shouldn't just die on you after 2 days.

I don't prep the battery, I used to do that a few years ago, but I found that most new MF batteries are almost fully charged the moment I got them.

 

Next, what kind of charger are you using? What's the voltage and charging current like? Bike batteries should be charged at 1/10 their Amp/hour rating, and should never exceed 2.5A. Does the charger have circuitry to ramp down the current when it detects that the battery is charged?

Using a Vanson charger, 13.8V, 1A, not sure whether it has overcharge protection, but I usually disconnect the charger upon "green light"

 

Lastly, some batteries could come with bad cells. I.e. they're defective straight from the shop. This could also be a possibility, and there are equipment to test this, but it is expensive (few thousand). Normally only dealerships have these equipment.

 

Just an update. Went back and change a third new battery today.

They replace the YTZ-14S with TTZ-14S. TTZ seems like a new type of MF battery.

The only difference is that YTZ is factory activated, whereas the TTZ is manual activated. They fill it up with the pre-pack acid before my eyes to activate it.

Battery seems stronger and voltage more stable compare to the previous 2.

Will feedback if it can stay alive for the week.

[Phang]

Hi none,

 

I am shopping for a Yuasa battery too, may I know where is this Yuasa authorized distributor you're buying the battery from? Please PM me if you do not wish to share it in the public forum.

 

Thank you

[kaiq]

Common method: go to shop B and buy their battery of same model. Ask them to fix for you. Battery no problem, then it's shop A fault. Battery got problem go shop B complain.

[rabbit1587]

should be batt spoilt cos ytz batt is gel type..... long time neva use will spoilt de.... u bought from which shop?

[kinwei]

TTZ is Yuasa Taiwan made. YTZ is Japan Made. Japan made also got 2 type, factory preactivated type and manual acvtivated type. That is the different. I always go for TTZ as it is cheaper. But did you charge it before using the battery? If not, the battery will not be 100% efficient.

[kinwei]

Hi none,

 

I am shopping for a Yuasa battery too, may I know where is this Yuasa authorized distributor you're buying the battery from? Please PM me if you do not wish to share it in the public forum.

 

Thank you

 

Try KS motor. Just opposite of Gmax.

[MiddleAgedBiker]

You mentioned that the bike runs fine on your old battery. This means your charging system is probably not the issue. But you could easily just do a charging voltage and current test. I think you've done the charging voltage test and it went from 12+V to 14+V so it looks like voltage is fine. But you need to check charging current also, for that you'll need an inductive DC ammeter clamped to the -ve battery cable.

Can I use a multimeter to check the charging current?

 

Can't. It'll blow the 10A fuse in the multimeter. Bike current can go as high as 30A.

 

Also do check what the parasitic current draw is on the bike when the ignition is off. Disconnect the -ve batt cable, hook up an ammeter in series, set it to measure mA DC, and see what kind of values you get. Should be very very small, like 5mA to 10mA max.

I dont have bike alarm, fanciful LEDs, cigarette lighter socket on my bike. The last time (about 2 years ago) I check the leakage is about 8mA. Will check again

 

Parasitic draw can also be caused by shorts in the system and bad diodes in the rectifier. Better to do a check.

 

If we can eliminate that, then it's down to battery prep and battery condition.

 

Did you prep the battery properly before using it? Most batteries need to be charged for a few hours before use, or they'll never be able to hold a full charge in their lifetime. Still, even if you didn't it shouldn't just die on you after 2 days.

I don't prep the battery, I used to do that a few years ago, but I found that most new MF batteries are almost fully charged the moment I got them.

 

If I'm not wrong MF batteries come from the factory only 70-80% charged. If you don't do the initial charge, you'll be using a perpetually partially discharged battery.

 

Next, what kind of charger are you using? What's the voltage and charging current like? Bike batteries should be charged at 1/10 their Amp/hour rating, and should never exceed 2.5A. Does the charger have circuitry to ramp down the current when it detects that the battery is charged?

Using a Vanson charger, 13.8V, 1A, not sure whether it has overcharge protection, but I usually disconnect the charger upon "green light"

 

Sounds ok. To be sure you can hook up your multimeter in series, switch to 10A mode and just look at the charging current.

 

Lastly, some batteries could come with bad cells. I.e. they're defective straight from the shop. This could also be a possibility, and there are equipment to test this, but it is expensive (few thousand). Normally only dealerships have these equipment.

 

Just an update. Went back and change a third new battery today.

They replace the YTZ-14S with TTZ-14S. TTZ seems like a new type of MF battery.

The only difference is that YTZ is factory activated, whereas the TTZ is manual activated. They fill it up with the pre-pack acid before my eyes to activate it.

Battery seems stronger and voltage more stable compare to the previous 2.

Will feedback if it can stay alive for the week.

 

All the best! Let us know how it goes.

[none]

3rd battery was working after 1 week. Cranking is very strong coming from this TTZ. Much better than YTZ.

So this concludes that the first 2 new batteries are faulty right from the start, nothing to do with my bike.

[ProFatSir]

3rd battery was working after 1 week. Cranking is very strong coming from this TTZ. Much better than YTZ.

So this concludes that the first 2 new batteries are faulty right from the start, nothing to do with my bike.

 

you are damm unlucky.