Paint For Rusty Exhaust

[Addictive]

second tt for a DIY session..

[ozzarhomb]

so is it for most bikes the end can and header pipes can be taken out just by unscrewing them? :confused:

[nitavroomspec3]

hei it ez to sand the rusty part of exost ,but difficult to open up the fairing, once open cannot screw, liao.if bike shops they got items to open up.....

[xiaogary]

those bike with fairing think kind of difficult to get the header out. Especially those bikes whose fairing is not in very good condition. After solving the header problem, think the next problem to solve is the fairing. Haha...

[MiddleAgedBiker]

Originally posted by blackieheng@Jan 17 2003, 06:25 PM

ok forget about chrome the whole pipe...what about gold plating the pipe...saw a local website providing this service...and it damn solid...

 

http://www.goldnatural.com/index.htm

 

Go check....they say it life time warrenty..

Eeeeeee.....and I thought I'm the old guy here...

[xiaogary]

I just bought a RJ 1200 degree Farad paint for $7.50.

 

3 sand paper, duno which coarse-ness to use, so bought very coarse one, medium and smooth one.

 

1 wire brush.

 

Forgot to buy thinner.

 

PLanning to do the header also.

 

But bike got fairing, cbr400, not sure whether need to take out fairing.

 

Will post pictures if I got time to derust and spray.

[hahahahoho]

i just sprayed my wr exhaust few weeks ago . still quite ok now .. kinda funny texture becoz i put e pipe on grass without knowing its still wet and all the grass stick on it .

 

what i did :

1.took out pipe

2.use e medium coarse type of sand paper to sand for 1/2 hr

3.wash it clean n dry

4.use e slightly smoother on to continue sand for 20min

5.wash it clean n dry

6.use e smoothest sand paper to sand 20min

7.wash n dry

8.coat it with 1st layer.

9.let it dry bake in sun for 20 min

10.2nd coat

11.let it dry bake in sun for 15 min

 

i tink i coated around 4 layers all together then i let e pipe out there to dry for few hours .

 

den i went to a bike shop e mech says: well, no point being so hardworking .. e rust will come back within 6 months for scram pipes..

[ultimax]

Originally posted by hahahahoho@Mar 31 2006, 11:56 AM

i just sprayed my wr exhaust few weeks ago . still quite ok now .. kinda funny texture becoz i put e pipe on grass without knowing its still wet and all the grass stick on it .

 

what i did :

1.took out pipe

2.use e medium coarse type of sand paper to sand for 1/2 hr

3.wash it clean n dry

4.use e slightly smoother on to continue sand for 20min

5.wash it clean n dry

6.use e smoothest sand paper to sand 20min

7.wash n dry

8.coat it with 1st layer.

9.let it dry bake in sun for 20 min

10.2nd coat

11.let it dry bake in sun for 15 min

 

i tink i coated around 4 layers all together then i let e pipe out there to dry for few hours .

 

den i went to a bike shop e mech says: well, no point being so hardworking .. e rust will come back within 6 months for scram pipes..

Pics:

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forum/index....dpost&p=1378711

[xiaogary]

Before I try it on the header, I tried my spraying on a smaller thing for practice first. I took out the mirror/saitao frame to derust and spray. These are some pictures I took to share with everybody. Sorry for the poor quality pictures. My phone camera not good.

 

Sanding, left side sand half way, right side not sanded, still black in color.

http://img386.imageshack.us/img386/7756/frame012cz.jpg

 

After finished sanding and removing most of the rust and old black paint.

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/3765/frame023dw.jpg

 

Zoomed in view of the bare metal. Think its plain steel only, not aluminium or stainless steel. No wonder rust so easily.

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/9827/frame033fg.jpg

 

After spraying first layer. This is the paint I used. Matt black high temperature paint. $7.50 each.

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/5657/frame044sy.jpg

 

Zoomed in view of the smooth matt black surface.

http://img432.imageshack.us/img432/7539/frame055lz.jpg

 

Forgot to take the picture after spraying 2nd layer. Next time take already then I post again. I learnt a lesson, must spray thin thin layer each time and wait for it to dry. Too thick will be too wet not be nice.

[xiaogary]

Took out the bike's left middle, right middle, left lower, right lower fairing and the header triangular fairing, unscrew 8 screws at the header, 1 screw at the 4-2-1 below, and 1 screw at the exhaust hanger and its out with the muffler.

 

The muffler's 3 screws are spoilt, soften already, so I never tried to open that, leave it for the mechanic when changing to aftermarket muffler in future.

 

http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/5954/header010im.jpg

 

The most corroded part of the header.

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/8694/header028ym.jpg

 

4-2-1 part, the one which suffer the knock whenever the hump are too round or tall. BUt its ok, bcos there is 2 line of groove made to withstand the knock abt 2-3mm thick.

http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/9595/header031re.jpg

 

The 3 screws, after trying one, it almost become rounded. So gave up. I guess the mechanic last time used the wrong type of screw which after repeated heating become softer and easy to get rounded.

http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/1889/header044qj.jpg

[xiaogary]

After using paint remover, scrapping, washing, drying plus sanding for 6 hours.

http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/1467/header057hr.jpg

 

The lower portion of header is almost clean, no rust at all, no sign of corrosion.The top part of header which is already corroded and those brown areas u see are deep into the metal, cannot be sand away using hand. This is the header of a 17 years old bike after all. Not all ex-owner are like me, so free to diy derust and spray protective layer.

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/7695/header071ry.jpg

 

4-2-1 part. Some deeper parts also heavily corroded, so I just make sure surface is clean and smooth and dry before a rust-proof coat primer is applied.

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/7052/header086fu.jpg

 

After further sanding, to produce silver shiny surface, then clean wipe with damp cloth to remove the sanding dust so that the primer will stick to the surface later.

http://img157.imageshack.us/img157/180/header091os.jpg

 

This is the paint remover. Cost me $6 only. Highly corrosive. Even when some dots are sprinkled onto my skin when I brush it along the header, it is so intensively painfu. I prepared a pail of water to wash away whenever the chemical whenever it burns me. For those skin sensitive people, I dont reccomend. I think use sand paper enuf already, just be more hardworking.

http://img460.imageshack.us/img460/7683/paintremover7xi.jpg

[xiaogary]

The anti-rust is red in color. Look quite fierce. Hehe...

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/6010/header123qq.jpg

 

Spray a total of 5 thin layers with interval of 15-20min waiting in between. Many thin layer is better than one thick layer. So must use sparingly.

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/5743/header136ei.jpg

 

When the surface become blur, its dry. When its glossy in color, its wet.

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/8229/header148cn.jpg

 

This is the anti rust primer I use.

http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/5917/antirustprimer027ao.jpg

 

Only $5.50 per bottle. I only use 1 bottle, after spraying so many layers on header, still got more than half bottle left.

http://img226.imageshack.us/img226/6876/antirustprimer015do.jpg

[xiaogary]

After the anti rust primer dried, the first layer of RJ high temp paint is sprayed on.

http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/1226/header158hg.jpg

 

Same rule, many thin layer is better than a thick layer.

http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/5954/header162qu.jpg

 

5 layers with 15 minutes interval.

http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/9843/header170il.jpg

 

See the texture, so smooth and nice. All effort is worth it.

http://img157.imageshack.us/img157/9617/header186il.jpg

[xiaogary]

I took the opporttunity to spray the old looking ugly radiator also. Only took me less than 10 min for the whole sanding and spray process. Only use 2 layers for this application.

 

Right original condition.

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/9600/radiator014aw.jpg

 

Left original condition.

http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/2117/radiator021bt.jpg

 

Right after sanding. The brown alloy looks like copper or brass to me.

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/4732/radiator054qu.jpg

 

Left after sanding.

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/5/radiator060ec.jpg

 

Right after respray.

http://img447.imageshack.us/img447/9028/radiator078oc.jpg

 

Left after respray.

http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/4499/radiator081rg.jpg

[MiddleAgedBiker]

Great job! Really enjoyed seeing those photos, thanks for sharing

[Grail]

Dear all,

 

I worked on board a 90+ year old ship for 2 years, maintaining the steel decks and bulkheads, and later on managing the paint and tool stores.

 

While ship hulls are somewhat different from exhaust manifolds, here's what I've got to offer:

 

1) Primer is vital. On the ship, what you don't prime doesn't EVER stay on. A primer is the "sticking" layer of stuff that sticks well to the steel and sticks well to the paint. Skip the primer and your paint job will be gone in a few weeks (even on a steel wall). Apply at least TWO coats of primer.

 

Negative result: Peeling/flaking paint.

 

2) Primer MUST be matched to the finish. Preferably the same brand, ABSOLUTELY the same type. You can't use normal primer on galv steel, you can't use hi-heat primer with normal paint, you can't use normal primer with hi-heat paint. The main principle is that different paints and primers use bases of different strengths. If the paint has a stronger base than the primer, the paint will dissolve the primer. If the primer's base is not dry (hard dry, not touch dry) when you put on the paint, it will dissolve the paint.

 

Negative result: "Runny" paint OR paint that never dries properly OR paint whose protective properties are negated.

 

3) Clean your surface before applying the primer. Get rid of all rust and all dirt, water, dust and anything at all. Dirty surfaces prevent the primer from sticking, and eventually the paint. After getting rid of rust, wash the surface with water or, preferably, thinner (because thinner doesn't make steel rust), then wipe dry before painting the primer.

 

Negative result: Peeling/flaking paint.

 

4) De-rust properly. Here's the truth - even if you paint it, steel will still rust eventually. A good paint job on my ship lasts about a year. We use chipping hammers (for thick rust), hydraulic/air powered needleguns, hand-held wire brushes, powered wire brushes, sandpaper, rust wash, and thinner. The objective is to get the steel down to the point where it looks VERY clean. Then apply the primer ASAP because in a humid place like SG, there's this effect known as flash-rusting, where a thin almost invisible film of rust forms within an hour of washing. Leaving any rust will result in more rust forming in a shorter time because of the chemical pricess of oxidisation.

 

Negative result: "bubbles" under paint OR peeling/flaking paint.

 

5) Each and every type of paint and primer has working conditions. That's why there's such a thing as hi-heat paint. If only your paint is hi-heat, but something else you're using is not, then the hi-heat paint is useless.

 

Negative result: "Runny" paint, flaking paint, paint that never dries.

 

6) Let it dry. Running your engine (ie. putting hi-heat paint through 500degrees before it's TOTALLY dry) before your hi-heat paint is properly dry may affect its effectiveness and drying characteristics. Read your paint technical sheet before using it. No two paints are exactly alike. All paints have diffrent recoat times, touch dry times and hard dry times, so use it right.

 

Negative result: Flaking/peeling paint.

 

Recoat time: Time window within which you can put on another coat. Usually have a minimum and maximum time (eg. between 30 minutes and 48 hours) but some paints may have an unlimited time (eg 30 minutes until forever).

 

Touch dry: Time before paint is dry to the touch and you can adjust/move the object. Touch and hard dry timings are different at different ambient temperatures.

 

Hard dry: Time before the paint is REALLY dry, even though it might FEEL dry long before this. before a pint is hard dry, do NOT manhandle it (such as installing a manifold/header back onto the bike), do NOT apply pressure to it, and do NOT put it under harsh conditions (eg. high heat).

 

Of course, I'm a paint nazi, and I've known some cases where not all of these rules are followed and the paint job lasted fine. But this is just the "proper" way to use paint on steel.

[xiaogary]

Hi Grail, I find that what u said is true. I discovered that the anti rust primer (red color as in the pictures) I use is not high temp and maybe that will cause problem. Let's say in my case, my anti rust primer is not high temp type. But my black paint is. What is the correct procedure or best procedure?

 

My friend tell me that I coated the anti rust primer inside as first layer, and that may flake and push out my high temp paint on the outer layer. I am afraid that will happen. And if that is the case, I regretted putting any primer in the first place. Will it be better if I directly coat it with high temp paint? But the paint will not stick as u said without primer it is hard to stick.

 

My friend asked me to coat high temp paint, then followed by primer, then high temp paint again. So that the primer is protected against the very bare heat. But I find it same becos the primer also cannot take the heat even if its not the inner most layer and will push my outer layer of paint out as well, maybe at best the inner layer of black paint will stay intact.

 

So what is the best? Primer followed by high temp paint? Or high temp paint alone without primer? Or high temp paint follow by primer and followed by high temp paint again?

 

Where to purchase high temp anti rust primer? I thought any rough surface paint is primer, I think the RJ paint itself is a primer itself, so actually will it work better if it is coated without any anti-rust primer before hand? The purpose of me using that red coat of primer is becos I want the anti rust property. Sort of prevent the bare metal below from being attacked. Please advice me. Thanks.

[Grail]

Under the circumstances that you're using it, I would suggest the following:

 

1) Look for a hi-temp primer.

 

2) Look for a hi-temp paint/primer 2-in-1 solution. Such solutions probably exist, but will be hard to find. They are usually referred to as primer/paints. Many epoxy (2-part) paints are like this (but most are not designed for hi-temp).

 

Essentially, using any type of paint or primer on your exhaust will deform and crack the paint and/or primer. I would say don't worry too much about "anti-rust" paint or even Rustmaster or rust converters. I would use rust converters only in situations such as hard-to-reach or impossible to derust areas, but then again, on an exhaust, you can't do that because the rust converter is not hi-temp.

 

The only solid solution is to de-rust it thouroughly. Use your M-16 cleaning kit christmas tree and other wire brushes to do this. After a surface is properly de-rusted, any applied paint (under proper operating environment) will stay on and protect the surface for about a year at least.

 

Normal paints and primers are usually only designed to withstand heat up to 100-200 degrees when dry. There's no chance of ever staying on an exhaust properly, even as the second/third layer.

 

If you're looking for hi-temp primer, try some of the industrial paint stores, like the one on Jalan Jurong Kechil, opposite the Shell station.

 

Hammerite paint is NOT hi-temp. Hammerite is designed to withstand high impacts and hard wear without flaking and wearing off.

 

Finally, even with a well-done job, expect to have to renew your exhaust paint job every 2 years or less. The exhaust is a seriously rough environment for paint, even though there are paints designed to handle such environments.

[MiddleAgedBiker]

Originally posted by xiaogary@Apr 25 2006, 01:14 PM

 

My friend tell me that I coated the anti rust primer inside as first layer, and that may flake and push out my high temp paint on the outer layer. I am afraid that will happen. And if that is the case, I regretted putting any primer in the first place. Will it be better if I directly coat it with high temp paint? But the paint will not stick as u said without primer it is hard to stick.

Hi, I don't think that's right, as it defeats the purpose of using a primer in the first place. Paint typically does not bond well to metal, it adheres to primer. Primer adheres well to metal. So the order has to be primer over bare metal, followed by paint over primer. So you'll need high temperature primer in this case.

[Zer0]

You really should be using flame proof paint on the headers. The non-high temp primer you used will likely burn off fairly quickly.

 

There is high temp paint and there is flame proof paint. The flame proof I have used for headers in the past adheres fine directly onto the header metal without an undercoat (flame proof undercoat is not a common thing). The flame proof paint will not dry until it is heated to quite a high temperature, so you come back a day later and it will still be soft and tacky, so you spray it on reasonably thick wait for it to go a bit tacky and then put the header back on carefully and go ride for 30 minutes or so to get some real heat into the exhaust, you can then wait for it to cool down, put another layer and repeat. This paint seems to last quite well after 3 years on my old bike it still looked almost good as new.

 

For your fairing brackets and other little bits you should really use an etch primer if you sand them back to bare metal as this type of primer is designed to bond to metal. You can then use something like engine enamel paints to spray the parts, engine enamel is good as it bonds to almost anything and is quite solvent and chemical resistent so you can wash it with whatever you want and it won't just peel off later on.

[xiaogary]

zero: thanks for sharing, aft hearing what you mention, I feel that my header's paint will peel off very soon. I'll try and get hold of a flame proof paint, for my second DIY.

[carbine]

zero where did u get your flame-proof paint from?..wads the price like?..

[tyujhgbnm]

my kips pipe all rust liao but i no time to de rust, anyone can intro a good bike shop of doing it??

[krazyfist]

Originally posted by Sex4@Nov 26 2002, 03:39 PM

Anyone out there bought stainless steel or chrom exhaust pipe?

Any ideas how much?

go jb..much cheaper...

[anric79]

where to buy high temperature spray paint,

is nippon spray paint found at paint shop = high temp spray paint?