Honda NC700X

[CKC]

Seriously, I am too used to Honda's old way of button placement for the left hand.

 

Kept down-shifting my DCT bike by mistake when I wanted a blast on the horn to warn some noob driver on the road.

 

Same here thats why thinking of changing the switch after my Thailand trip next week, still looking at a suitable model on wiring closed to ncx

[GuiNNeSS]

just be abit careful alot of ppl in usa having some probs

fitting the seats. .......

 

 

Source: http://www.corbin.com/honda/hnc7fr.shtml

 

http://i.imgur.com/FC0Bnxx.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/QIJt6zL.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/mUkqt9l.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/yduQA8o.jpg

 

ITEM DESCRIPTION PRICE

#H-NC7-F Front saddle no heat, 2012 Honda NC700 X $347

#H-NC7-R Rear saddle, no heat, 2012 Honda NC700 X $283

 

In USD.

 

Still can choose colour/texture combination also... Wahhhhhh....

 

Crapz... my wallet is going to take another beating...

[pktan]

Source: http://www.corbin.com/honda/hnc7fr.shtml

 

http://i.imgur.com/FC0Bnxx.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/QIJt6zL.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/mUkqt9l.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/yduQA8o.jpg

 

ITEM DESCRIPTION PRICE

#H-NC7-F Front saddle no heat, 2012 Honda NC700 X $347

#H-NC7-R Rear saddle, no heat, 2012 Honda NC700 X $283

 

In USD.

 

Still can choose colour/texture combination also... Wahhhhhh....

 

Crapz... my wallet is going to take another beating...

 

poison....

[nudgedoink]

Eh my first fuel bar drop at 40km leh. ****

[Wizard]

2 main reasons..

1) you might not have pump to the brim of your tank..

2) its still running in.. many of our fc stablized after few full pumps.

 

dun worry.. everything is ok..

[mark9911]

I'm using CBF 150 currently. nc700 look very prestige. i'm sure if on the road, everyone will be looking on it.

 

i have both bikes. if not for touring....i will probably stick with the cbf-150.

cheers

[WaRRioR83]

Hi there,I'm interested in the nc700x. I got notice a nc700x with side box,fog light at Pasir ris street 51. Blk 558+ here. If the owner here. Would u kindly msg me at 92718918?? Would like to meet u up and ask u more about the bike in person. I live blk 565. So can walk over chat with u. Cheers.

 

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

[CivicDash]

a few of them using already.

Even my fren on other rides are using.

 

Can i check with you what oil your friends used to refill it? Can I use scottoiler oil?

[nudgedoink]

;7885570']2 main reasons..

1) you might not have pump to the brim of your tank..

2) its still running in.. many of our fc stablized after few full pumps.

 

dun worry.. everything is ok..

Yea man. I just pumped on sidestand haha. Also I realised my tires were not properly inflated

[Wizard]

Yea man. I just pumped on sidestand haha. Also I realised my tires were not properly inflated

 

yup.. all these made a diff.

on sat i was trying out.. insert pump all the way in and press until full.. about 10l

then i pull out a bit and slowly pump.. i could add another litre by filling it to the brim.

 

which means if you had that additional litre more, your first fuel bar would have lasted till about 90km before dropping.

[goomeister]

Can i check with you what oil your friends used to refill it? Can I use scottoiler oil?

 

I had a scottoiler system installed on my super 4 b4.

 

Market ran out of stock when I wanted to buy a refill and my mechanic told me to use 2T mineral oil as a temp replacement.

 

$5 per bottle of 2T oil vs $20-30 bottle of scottoiler... I never did buy that scottoiler refill in the end.

 

Currently using 2T oil for my chains.

[nudgedoink]

;7885823']yup.. all these made a diff.

on sat i was trying out.. insert pump all the way in and press until full.. about 10l

then i pull out a bit and slowly pump.. i could add another litre by filling it to the brim.

 

which means if you had that additional litre more, your first fuel bar would have lasted till about 90km before dropping.

 

thats probably the case man.

 

I also want to ask those who have the dct model. in D mode the bike shifts through the gears very quickly and more often than not u find urself accelerating in the 2000-2500rpm range. when accelerating in those rpms, i find that the engine chugs quite abit and doesnt feel right. i now drive in S mode all the time and the problem seems to go away since most of the shifts are done at 3000-4000rpm. anyone else feels that the D mode is kinda screwed?

[sihan0110]

what the difference in buying a agent nc700x and PI nc700x.

 

What the recommendation ?

[goomeister]

thats probably the case man.

 

I also want to ask those who have the dct model. in D mode the bike shifts through the gears very quickly and more often than not u find urself accelerating in the 2000-2500rpm range. when accelerating in those rpms, i find that the engine chugs quite abit and doesnt feel right. i now drive in S mode all the time and the problem seems to go away since most of the shifts are done at 3000-4000rpm. anyone else feels that the D mode is kinda screwed?

 

No worries... That "chugging" is just something that twin engines do at low rpms. Nothing wrong with it at all.

 

The "D" mode is designed to give you fuel economy at low rpms without stalling the engine. And with the amount of torque already present at 2000rpm, there is no chance of stalling at all. Just have to live with the "chugging" sensation due to the low rpm vibes.

 

Feel free to stick to "S" mode if you prefer. Just that you would be going around in max 3rd or 4th gear on local roads and sacrificing some fuel economy as a consequence.

 

The DCT ECU is supposed to adapt to your riding style over time. So maybe you want to consider riding around in "D" mode for a while to see if there's any changes?

 

After a month on the road, I could sense a change in how the DCT adapts to my riding.

 

Initially, the "D" mode would change over to 6th gear once it hits 61kmh. Now, the bike actually waits until I go past 65kmh before upshifting to the final gear. So I guess Honda wasn't joking when it claims the DCT adapts to you.

 

BTW, just wanna say "Hi!" to the fellow NC700X rider that honked at me on the SLE on Sunday morning. You are wearing a "BT-023" t-shirt and riding a black NC700X with a big black top box. I was just day-dreaming in centre lane when he cut me on my left and honked at me. *grinz*

[nudgedoink]

No worries... That "chugging" is just something that twin engines do at low rpms. Nothing wrong with it at all.

 

The "D" mode is designed to give you fuel economy at low rpms without stalling the engine. And with the amount of torque already present at 2000rpm, there is no chance of stalling at all. Just have to live with the "chugging" sensation due to the low rpm vibes.

 

Feel free to stick to "S" mode if you prefer. Just that you would be going around in max 3rd or 4th gear on local roads and sacrificing some fuel economy as a consequence.

 

The DCT ECU is supposed to adapt to your riding style over time. So maybe you want to consider riding around in "D" mode for a while to see if there's any changes?

 

After a month on the road, I could sense a change in how the DCT adapts to my riding.

 

Initially, the "D" mode would change over to 6th gear once it hits 61kmh. Now, the bike actually waits until I go past 65kmh before upshifting to the final gear. So I guess Honda wasn't joking when it claims the DCT adapts to you.

 

BTW, just wanna say "Hi!" to the fellow NC700X rider that honked at me on the SLE on Sunday morning. You are wearing a "BT-023" t-shirt and riding a black NC700X with a big black top box. I was just day-dreaming in centre lane when he cut me on my left and honked at me. *grinz*

ahh.. thanks for this feedback. having never ridden a twin before, the chugging really doesnt feel "right" to me. but i guess i will ride it in D at least until my break in period. the chugging to me (coming from an fz6) is like riding my fz6 in 3rd gear at 20km/h. half dead engine. LOL!

[nudgedoink]

what the difference in buying a agent nc700x and PI nc700x.

 

What the recommendation ?

from what ive gathered, its perfectly fine to buy the PI. it will only be a problem if honda sends out a recall for the bikes. but i think the NC has been recalled before last yr so *cross fingers* hope no more

[nudgedoink]

just came back from a ride on my fz6. i miss the crazy power! hahaha

[goomeister]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlkcJeihx7w

[goomeister]

just came back from a ride on my fz6. i miss the crazy power! hahaha

 

Well... If you haven't been reading all the various online reviews about the NC700X BEFORE you bought the bike...

 

I'm sure someone would be more than happy to take yours off your hand. =p

 

To all potential NC700X owners, do your research before spending nearly $20k yer?

[nudgedoink]

Well... If you haven't been reading all the various online reviews about the NC700X BEFORE you bought the bike...

 

I'm sure someone would be more than happy to take yours off your hand. =p

 

To all potential NC700X owners, do your research before spending nearly $20k yer?

aiya. i nv say i regret la. i know my needs. power is fun but not essential for what i need in a bike. riding the fz is like eating chocolate. shiok but not necessary and eat too much will fall ill lol

[nudgedoink]

double post

[nudgedoink]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlkcJeihx7w

i realised something when i was riding back home. i was in S mode at 90km/h, 5th gear. wanted to shift upwards but couldnt shift to 6. i think in the D or S mode u can only manually shift up if u had manually shifted down.

[alvinyansg]

I had a scottoiler system installed on my super 4 b4.

 

Market ran out of stock when I wanted to buy a refill and my mechanic told me to use 2T mineral oil as a temp replacement.

 

$5 per bottle of 2T oil vs $20-30 bottle of scottoiler... I never did buy that scottoiler refill in the end.

 

Currently using 2T oil for my chains.

 

scott oiler refill oil is $15-$20/bottle...

[goomeister]

i realised something when i was riding back home. i was in S mode at 90km/h, 5th gear. wanted to shift upwards but couldnt shift to 6. i think in the D or S mode u can only manually shift up if u had manually shifted down.

 

As you said, you were in "S" mode. The initial algorithms that the DCT is working with only allows for upshifts when the RPM touches 3000 in "S" mode.

 

For DCT model, you probably had to go near 100kmh for the DCT "S" mode to reach 6th gear. Its all in the rpms. Hit 3000 and magic happens.

 

In "D" mode, you would have reached 6th by 65kmh.

 

So make up your mind, what you do want? Power or Fuel Efficiency?

 

"S" only for power.

 

"D" to save fuel.

 

There's no "H"ybrid mode yet.

 

The DCT ECU has a safety factor built in to prevent bikers from down-shifting or up-shifting a few gears too fast. HONDA made it so.

 

Alternatively, you can always switch between "D" and "S" mode while on the move. "S" when you start from stop, then "D" when you reach highway speeds.

 

Or trigger "AT/MT" button and manually upshift to 6th gear.

 

Or just stick to one mode and let the onboard computer slowly figure out that you want to ride aggressively at the start and then fuel-saving once you reached highway speed.

 

The way you twist your throttle also figures in the ECU's calculation.

 

So if you get really twitchy with your throttle aka indecisive throttling, the ECU also goes kuku trying to figure out what exactly you want the bike to do.

[nudgedoink]

As you said, you were in "S" mode. The initial algorithms that the DCT is working with only allows for upshifts when the RPM touches 3000 in "S" mode.

 

For DCT model, you probably had to go near 100kmh for the DCT "S" mode to reach 6th gear. Its all in the rpms. Hit 3000 and magic happens.

 

In "D" mode, you would have reached 6th by 65kmh.

 

So make up your mind, what you do want? Power or Fuel Efficiency?

 

"S" only for power.

 

"D" to save fuel.

 

There's no "H"ybrid mode yet.

 

The DCT ECU has a safety factor built in to prevent bikers from down-shifting or up-shifting a few gears too fast. HONDA made it so.

 

Alternatively, you can always switch between "D" and "S" mode while on the move. "S" when you start from stop, then "D" when you reach highway speeds.

 

Or trigger "AT/MT" button and manually upshift to 6th gear.

 

Or just stick to one mode and let the onboard computer slowly figure out that you want to ride aggressively at the start and then fuel-saving once you reached highway speed.

 

The way you twist your throttle also figures in the ECU's calculation.

 

So if you get really twitchy with your throttle aka indecisive throttling, the ECU also goes kuku trying to figure out what exactly you want the bike to do.

good info. i was just stating an observation though. not complaining.