SYM GTS200 group

[mudai]

Sure it will depend on which type you buy. I think the most expensive one is the one with red colour synthetic. I tried ows before but my engine sound rougher than usual. Was on agip scooter. But this agip hard to find. So switch to motul now.

[mudai]

Oh ya.. i have found also some shops in alexandra village selling quite cheap motor oil.. that why i stop to go workshop for oil change.. and if you have your own oil.. some small workshop will charge you as low 3 sgd for changing the oil only..

26 is a bit overkill just to change spark plug and engine oil.. that literally you can do it your self. Imho

[gpan]

Ya, $26 isn't exactly cheap but I didn't know where to buy oil from...but as I hardly clock much kms (about 400km a month), for me the cost is ok...

[Isopropyl]

for engine oil, last time i use to get heavy duty engine oil for my motorcycle. about rm 76 for 5L of Shell Rimula R4X if i remember the price correctly.

 

http://www.epc.shell.com/docs/GPCDOC_GTDS_Shell_Rimula_R4_X_15W-40_(CI-4_E7_DH-1)_(en)_TDS.pdf

[Isopropyl]

found this thread on engine oil for Kymco scooter. interesting read.

[gpan]

bobistheoilguy is a good read always....

[Ray Oliver Donovan]

hi Guys, would like to seek your expert opinion. The bike has 5 full bars upon filling the gas & back than i would get about 100km before the 1st bar is depleted off. Now i would get approximately about 70+ km ..... any reason for the substantial variances? Up to date i've travel 2600km .... last EO change upon hit 300km.

[mudai]

Eo light can use reset button. 1 bar indeed 70+

[Isopropyl]

just got the manual for the bike. so much things to learn:cheer: anything i misses out?

 

1) Engine oil - API SH, 10W30, 800ml, change every 3,000 km

2) Transmission oil - GL-5, 85W140, 100 ml, change every 5,000 km

3) Oil filter (Screen) - clean every 6,000 km

4) Air filter - Clean every 6,000 km and replace if necessary

5) Fuel - Ron 92 or higher

6) Spark plug - Change every 12,000 km

7) Belt and roller - Change every 12,000 km

8) Coolant - Change yearly

9) Tyres Pressure - Front is 1.5kg/cm2 = 22PSI / Rear is 2.25-2.5kg/cm2 = 32-36PSI

[Isopropyl]

just change my bike coolant. the manual recommend some type of "SYM Bramax radiator agent" as coolant. i can't really find much information about it except that Bramax is some Chinese or Taiwan company called 金帝 in mandarin. it look and smell like those standard green coolant to me.

 

i flushed the system with plenty of tap water until no trace of the green stuff. top up with distilled water + water wetter in about 94:6 ratio. i accidentally over-filled the reservoir but that shouldn't be a big concern.

 

i did not bleed the system as i having problem pulling out the by-pass tube. it totally took the shape of the pipe it was attached to and the space to work with was rather tight. from my experience, the bubble will find it way out after a few days. just got to monitor the temperature bar during this period just in case of air lock. seriously i doubt that anyone bleed the cooling system for you as well during manufacturing. that just my guess.

 

next week will try to change the brake fluid.

[Isopropyl]

after running my bike for 30-40km after changing coolant, i checked on the reservoir and found that the coolant level had dropped below low level. further more, the pink coolant had been tinted green.

 

the air pocket might had been purged causing the drop in coolant level. the green tint should be the result of old coolant still in the water jacket recirculated into the reservioir which is expected as i didn't run the engine to temperature when flushing. i topped up the coolant to the correct level and will continue to monitor for the next few days.

 

so far the temperature stay mostly within 1 to 2 bar so i guess everything is good.

[gpan]

You should have flushed the system with the engine running. That would have ensured that the system was circulating the coolant/water and any old coolant would have been forced out. Also, if there was a thermostat, it would have opened. The system should be bleed too. I would think it was bleed ex factory as air stuck in the pipes would be a bad thing.

I think it's normal after what you did to see the coolant level drop-just top up and monitor. As you said, could be because of air.

[mudai]

Yes that is right. When filling up also. Fill half first until you see the coolant level in the reservoir. Starr the engine. And pay attention to the coolant level. There will be bubbles signage that air still trap inside. And pour the rest of the coolant slowly. Until the coolant having less bubbles.

[Bwe6ton]

I shall be the 1st to ask/posthttp://zz.avedcomputer.com/7.jpghttp://zz.avedcomputer.com/9.jpghttp://zz.avedcomputer.com/8.jpghttp://zz.avedcomputer.com/10.jpg

[mudai]

Hmm suspicious posting. Maybe virus. Don't

[Isopropyl]

i understand. that what i do in the past and now i just plain lazy to go through a few heat cycles:sweat:

 

due to the nature of filling through the reservoir, the chance is quite high of some air pocket in the system unlike filling through the radiator. the air tend to be able to escape especially in an hot / vibrating / fast flow system. of course there is still a risk of air trapped in the system preventing flow. i will have bleed the system if i can pull out the by-pass tube easily.

 

i not too worry about a small amount of old coolant since i am changing it yearly. i expected it to be there, hence i increased the amount of water wetter from the recommend 3% to about 5-6%. a tiny bit isn't going to hurt anything. of course if i am going to leave the coolant there much longer, i will have flush out as much as possible.

 

anyway, i traveled another 30 km or so. it seem the coolant level has stabilized. i poured about 1 liter of coolant altogether and should be about right according to the manual.

Edited October 13, 2014 by Isopropyl

[gpan]

Where to go to buy a motorbike battery?

[Isopropyl]

  gpan said:

Where to go to buy a motorbike battery?

Try ah boy and diy yourself. Ask for ytx9-bs or the same battery as super 4. It should be rated at 8 ah.

 

May I know how long your battery last you? I intend to get a battery charger and charge it every 2 to 3 months.

[Isopropyl]

 

Going to get a few bottles of these for oil change:lovestruck:

[gpan]

The battery from my SF seems to only hold its charge for a week or less.....dunno hold old the batt is.Now I'm reconditioning it using my CTEK charger. Hope that gives life to the battery....

[gpan]

  Isopropyl said:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]313507[/ATTACH]

 

Going to get a few bottles of these for oil change:lovestruck:

 

For the GTS? Don't think it can use that car engine oil, can it?

[gpan]

I charge my bike batteries every 2/3 months.....

[Isopropyl]

  gpan said:

The battery from my SF seems to only hold its charge for a week or less.....dunno hold old the batt is.Now I'm reconditioning it using my CTEK charger. Hope that gives life to the battery....

 

you ride short distance?

 

which Ctek charger you are using? i thinking of getting one too but after much reading, i decide to just get something cheap with low amp that doesn't over charge the battery will do a pretty much the same job without the reconditioning function of ctek. i looking at this charger.

[gpan]

Ya, mainly short rides. My SF battery died on me this afternoon at mall,had to push start! My first experience...haha. Survived!

[gpan]

CTEK MXS 5.0

 

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/18/2f6175cbe1b5d52bec8a526709327b13.jpg