[Group] YAMAHA Fazer

[IceZ]

just curious, what's the FC you guys are getting for gen2 FZ1?

 

Anyone done Cat removal? What's the pricing range normally?

Would like to take out the cat off my FZ1. Need advise.

 

ya..its ard 13-17km/L depend on how u ride and the machine works.

Edited March 11, 2009 by IceZ

[Addictive]

Did mine at Ah Meng's for RM50.About 30mins job.In Sg,I believe most bikeshop does it but it's only a question of how much.. Correct me if I'm wrong,Gen 2 FZ1N stock exhaust has 2 catalyser.1 in the header and another in the end can isn't it?

 

Ah Meng's at JB, hmz 50rm seems a good price. How do I reach there, or rather when u will be gg there, can I tag along or not .

[0yuan0]

rode behind 2 de-cat fz1. on sunday back from ah-meng ... almost died.... the fume so toxic.. coughing all the way... hahaha

[DeusExMachina]

ya..its ard 13-17km/L depend on how u ride and the machine works.

 

it is advise nt to remove the cat off the bike...it will affect the performance of the bike esp on the low range. pointless bro.

 

Removing the cat changes the flow velocity and backpressure of the exhaust. Good for higher RPMs, not so for lower rpms. It's like changing to an aftermarket pipe (though not straight thru yet).

 

For those who has a PC3 but no aftermarket exhaust, you can always retune after knocking the cat out.

[James996]

Good morning all....Ups to the top of the thread...

[X-Fazed]

BTW! Congrats on yr FZ6 OTR yesterday!

 

Dont show la. wau lau eh. hee hee.

 

人不疯流往少年嘛。

[fz6blackie]

Upzz for the morning!!!

 

I've found these wiki articles about Yamaha FZ6/FZ1, some specs info and history about these 2 bikes:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_FZ6

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_FZ1

[IceZ]

Removing the cat changes the flow velocity and backpressure of the exhaust. Good for higher RPMs, not so for lower rpms. It's like changing to an aftermarket pipe (though not straight thru yet).

 

For those who has a PC3 but no aftermarket exhaust, you can always retune after knocking the cat out.

 

ya..deusexmachine right. nt sure will it affect FC. best is to get a pc3.

[JoOs7eR]

isit really a must for pc3 if yr using aftermarket exhaust ?

 

Regards..

[LollyPoP]

isit really a must for pc3 if yr using aftermarket exhaust ?

 

Regards..

 

PC is there to correct yr A/F ratio.

usually with aftermarket end-cans, yr A/F is just not right.

USUALLY, lots of backfires.

tat's wat happen to mi.

 

As for FC, i dun think it affect much. (@ least to mi)

But a PC + custom map is recomemded.

[JoOs7eR]

PC is there to correct yr A/F ratio.

usually with aftermarket end-cans, yr A/F is just not right.

USUALLY, lots of backfires.

tat's wat happen to mi.

 

As for FC, i dun think it affect much. (@ least to mi)

But a PC + custom map is recomemded.

 

thanks for the info bro... guess will need to save up for a PC den

 

Cheers

[Pplater]

Is pc3 really necessary to correct A/F ratio? my previous owner changed the end-can to an aftermarket slip-on one and i get 22km/l average on SG rides. With fuel addictive like FP60 or Mckreen it averages around 23km/L. There's no PC3 on my bike. I must be the unusual minority.

 

i do hear a little bit of backfiring (just a little bit) when the rpm slips pass the 4k mark when decelerating. Sounds pretty good to me

 

Joos7er, why don't you change your exhaust or do whatever mods u want first, and monitor whether the FC drops? If it drops to unacceptable levels over a few tankfuls, and then u add PC3 to correct the A/F ratio also not too late mah. If ur bike consumption no change, u can save the couple hundred bucks and buy other more useful things for ur ride.

Edited March 11, 2009 by Pplater

[JoOs7eR]

Is pc3 really necessary to correct A/F ratio? my previous owner changed the end-can to an aftermarket slip-on one and i get 22km/l average on SG rides. With fuel addictive like FP60 or Mckreen it averages around 23km/L. There's no PC3 on my bike. I must be the unusual minority.

 

i do hear a little bit of backfiring (just a little bit) when the rpm slips pass the 4k mark when decelerating. Sounds pretty good to me

 

Joos7er, why don't you change your exhaust or do whatever mods u want first, and monitor whether the FC drops? If it drops to unacceptable levels and then u add PC3 to correct the A/F ratio also not too late mah. If ur bike consumption no change, u can save the couple hundred bucks and buy other more useful things for ur ride.

 

Bro yours FZ6?

[LollyPoP]

aftermarket cans will usually result in either the bike running too lean or rich.

prolong usage will damage yr engine over time. (how long i dun koe)

 

i'm on the remus cans + link pipe.

with the silceners, i got veri strong engine brake.

w/o, it's smooth, LOUD + little engine brake.

 

since there's no way to actually TUNE a EFI bike & the aftermarket cans are oreadi there, might as well get a PC for it.

 

for mi, 18~19km/l is wat i got on the average for the past 2yrs on my 07 FZ6.

asked ard, & it seems tat pre 07 model have a betta FC. ( i might wrong on this)

my FC seems normal to mi as i do the following:

2 x H&B panniers (never remove)

remus cans + link pipe

70% solo & 30% pillion riding ( i onli ~55kg the MOST)

65~80MPH speed (YA, i use MPH not KM/HR, but i do my FC based on km)

[fz6blackie]

I've absolute zero knowledge about PC, anyone care to share what are the pros and cons to install it (esp on our FZ, mine's an '08 FZ6)?

[katana777]

mine without pc3 but with after market exhaust, still going strong after 3yrs

HUAT ARRRR

[innards]

mine without pc3 but with after market exhaust, still going strong after 3yrs

HUAT ARRRR

 

RXK no need PC3 eh..

[MuNkyFooT]

65~80MPH speed (YA, i use MPH not KM/HR, but i do my FC based on km)

 

 

you use MPH so that the balls wont shrink so much when you look at the meter on NSH rite bro? :thumb:

[fz6blackie]

you use MPH so that the balls wont shrink so much when you look at the meter on NSH rite bro? :thumb:

 

Good idea!!! I'll take 130mph as 130kph in the future!!!

[PaLmEr]

.

 

Is pc3 really necessary to correct A/F ratio? my previous owner changed the end-can to an aftermarket slip-on one and i get 22km/l average on SG rides. With fuel addictive like FP60 or Mckreen it averages around 23km/L. There's no PC3 on my bike. I must be the unusual minority. Then again, include the cost of the FP60 and it prob works out to cost more per KM travelled.

 

i do hear a little bit of backfiring (just a little bit) when the rpm slips pass the 4k mark when decelerating. Sounds pretty good to me backfiring can mean that your A/F mixture is too lean. Heat generation is increased by quite a bit also

 

Joos7er, why don't you change your exhaust or do whatever mods u want first, and monitor whether the FC drops? If it drops to unacceptable levels over a few tankfuls, and then u add PC3 to correct the A/F ratio also not too late mah. If ur bike consumption no change, u can save the couple hundred bucks and buy other more useful things for ur ride.

[PaLmEr]

Good idea!!! I'll take 130mph as 130kph in the future!!!

then how about the speed cameras?

[DeusExMachina]

you use MPH so that the balls wont shrink so much when you look at the meter on NSH rite bro? :thumb:

 

That's why I told the TP. SG Expressway speed limit is 90MPH.

 

I mean... *******... the round sign has a 2 digit number 90 there. It didn't specify the unit. So my speedo is toggled to MPH... I'm following the damned law what...

[DeusExMachina]

Is pc3 really necessary to correct A/F ratio? my previous owner changed the end-can to an aftermarket slip-on one and i get 22km/l average on SG rides. With fuel addictive like FP60 or Mckreen it averages around 23km/L. There's no PC3 on my bike. I must be the unusual minority.

 

i do hear a little bit of backfiring (just a little bit) when the rpm slips pass the 4k mark when decelerating. Sounds pretty good to me

 

Joos7er, why don't you change your exhaust or do whatever mods u want first, and monitor whether the FC drops? If it drops to unacceptable levels over a few tankfuls, and then u add PC3 to correct the A/F ratio also not too late mah. If ur bike consumption no change, u can save the couple hundred bucks and buy other more useful things for ur ride.

 

 

Think of a PC3 as something parallel to say... a fully adjustable rear shock, compared to your stock rear shox. It is fully variable. You can tune it and set it up as needed, unlike your stock unit which has limited, or no options at all, to adjust.

 

That being said, you must remember that an exhaust system is designed to fulfil a bike's performance as the manufacturer intended it to be. If you change the endcan, header, or remove the exhaust valve, it changes the state of tune/design of the exhaust entirely. And knowing that your ECU was specifically tuned for the design of the stock exhaust, you're now possibly running out of optimal tune.

 

Here's an excerpt I picked up from another forummer, who got the article from somewhere else too.

 

I. Introduction

One of the most misunderstood concepts in exhaust theory is backpressure. People love to talk about backpressure on message boards with no real understanding of what it is and what it's consequences are. I'm sure many of you have heard or read the phrase "Engines need backpressure" when discussing exhaust upgrades. That phrase is in fact completely inaccurate and a wholly misguided notion.

 

II. Some basic exhaust theory

Your exhaust system is designed to evacuate gases from the combustion chamber quickly and efficently. Exhaust gases are not produced in a smooth stream; exhaust gases originate in pulses. A 4 cylinder motor will have 4 distinct pulses per complete engine cycle, a 6 cylinder has 6 pules and so on. The more pulses that are produced, the more continuous the exhaust flow. Backpressure can be loosely defined as the resistance to positive flow - in this case, the resistance to positive flow of the exhaust stream.

 

III. Backpressure and velocity

Some people operate under the misguided notion that wider pipes are more effective at clearing the combustion chamber than narrower pipes. It's not hard to see how this misconception is appealing - wider pipes have the capability to flow more than narrower pipes. So if they have the ability to flow more, why isn't "wider is better" a good rule of thumb for exhaust upgrading? In a word - VELOCITY. I'm sure that all of you have at one time used a garden hose w/o a spray nozzle on it. If you let the water just run unrestricted out of the house it flows at a rather slow rate. However, if you take your finger and cover part of the opening, the water will flow out at a much much faster rate.

 

The astute exhaust designer knows that you must balance flow capacity with velocity. You want the exhaust gases to exit the chamber and speed along at the highest velocity possible - you want a FAST exhaust stream. If you have two exhaust pulses of equal volume, one in a 2" pipe and one in a 3" pipe, the pulse in the 2" pipe will be traveling considerably FASTER than the pulse in the 3" pipe. While it is true that the narrower the pipe, the higher the velocity of the exiting gases, you want make sure the pipe is wide enough so that there is as little backpressure as possible while maintaining suitable exhaust gas velocity. Backpressure in it's most extreme form can lead to reversion of the exhaust stream - that is to say the exhaust flows backwards, which is not good. The trick is to have a pipe that that is as narrow as possible while having as close to zero backpressure as possible at the RPM range you want your power band to be located at. Exhaust pipe diameters are best suited to a particular RPM range. A smaller pipe diameter will produce higher exhaust velocities at a lower RPM but create unacceptably high amounts of backpressure at high rpm. Thus if your powerband is located 2-3000 RPM you'd want a narrower pipe than if your powerband is located at 8-9000RPM.

 

Many engineers try to work around the RPM specific nature of pipe diameters by using setups that are capable of creating a similar effect as a change in pipe diameter on the fly. The most advanced is Ferrari's which consists of two exhaust paths after the header - at low RPM only one path is open to maintain exhaust velocity, but as RPM climbs and exhaust volume increases, the second path is opened to curb backpressure - since there is greater exhaust volume there is no loss in flow velocity. BMW and Nissan use a simpler and less effective method - there is a single exhaust path to the muffler; the muffler has two paths; one path is closed at low RPM but both are open at high RPM.

 

IV. So how did this myth come to be?

I often wonder how the myth "Engines need backpressure" came to be. Mostly I believe it is a misunderstanding of what is going on with the exhaust stream as pipe diameters change. For instance, someone with a civic decides he's going to uprade his exhaust with a 3" diameter piping. Once it's installed the owner notices that he seems to have lost a good bit of power throughout the powerband. He makes the connections in the following manner: "My wider exhaust eliminated all backpressure but I lost power, therefore the motor must need some backpressure in order to make power." What he did not realize is that he killed off all his flow velocity by using such a ridiculously wide pipe. It would have been possible for him to achieve close to zero backpressure with a much narrower pipe - in that way he would not have lost all his flow velocity.

 

V. So why is exhaust velocity so important?

The faster an exhaust pulse moves, the better it can scavenge out all of the spent gasses during valve overlap. The guiding principles of exhaust pulse scavenging are a bit beyond the scope of this doc but the general idea is a fast moving pulse creates a low pressure area behind it. This low pressure area acts as a vacuum and draws along the air behind it. A similar example would be a vehicle traveling at a high rate of speed on a dusty road. There is a low pressure area immediately behind the moving vehicle - dust particles get sucked into this low pressure area causing it to collect on the back of the vehicle. This effect is most noticeable on vans and hatchbacks which tend to create large trailing low pressure areas - giving rise to the numerous "wash me please" messages written in the thickly collected dust on the rear door(s).

 

Read the article.

 

Now you understand what changing your exhaust does?

 

You now have less restriction, hence less backpressure, ... and if your pipe diameter is larger... less flow velocity. You will tend to lose a bit of power in the lower rpm ranges, but gain more in the upper.

 

A PC3 will be there to help map the F/A ratio across the rev range to optimize for your new exhaust profile and flow. Your stock ECU can't compensate much, if at all.

Edited March 12, 2009 by DeusExMachina

[NSRboi]

Bros,i got a brand new set of brake pads(front n back) to let go.As i change to a new bike,so no point keeping the brake pads.interested sms at 81335764.collection will be at yishun.Letting go at $110(fixed)

 

Model: Braking

Front: BRK-151-GF(742SM1)

Back: BRK-551-HH(777CM33)

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=226806

[MuNkyFooT]

That's why I told the TP. SG Expressway speed limit is 90MPH.

 

I mean... *******... the round sign has a 2 digit number 90 there. It didn't specify the unit. So my speedo is toggled to MPH... I'm following the damned law what...

 

haha.. did it work? probably he'll give u the ticket with a smile...