[Group] DAELIM roadwin

[beyond23]

Halo greetings to all roadwin riders..

i m new here..owner of a roadwin..

been riding it for half year liao..still stock..

i figured..if i dun ask n explore..

tink will ride de same way as it is..

pardon mi if i ask stupid or many ques..

GLAD to find a grp of ppl who rides same bike..

we r reali unique..rarely seen 1 otr.. =)

[stsoh]

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Edited July 6, 2010 by stsoh

[raden]

Originally posted by beyond23@Oct 2 2006, 11:57 PM

Halo greetings to all roadwin riders..

i m new here..owner of a roadwin..

been riding it for half year liao..still stock..

i figured..if i dun ask n explore..

tink will ride de same way as it is..

pardon mi if i ask stupid or many ques..

GLAD to find a grp of ppl who rides same bike..

we r reali unique..rarely seen 1 otr.. =)

If u got any friends or relatives who intends to buy 2nd hand rw125, pls pm me bro ok.....Power one.....

 

 

[Satria]

Hey I've just discovered that the Roadwin X5 have 2 different production models.. The older version which is what I'm riding is using main jet 100 whereas the current new stocks are using main jet 92.. Thought you guys want to know thats all..

[Roadwinner]

Originally posted by jagger@Sep 27 2006, 10:03 AM

Hey, there was some rattling sound among the other rw riders too right? and iot's not the heaaader problem. wad was it?

Mine was having that rattling sound too a few months back. I figured out that the rattling sound came from my stock header. The welding spot between two header pipe layers was cracked. Brought my header to a grille workshop, having it weld back onto the previous weld spot but yet still producing that annoying rattling sound when i'm riding my RW . I finally managed to get White Cement from the hardware store, mix with a water & pour it inside the gap between the two header pipe layers. As to date, i'm happy & enjoy riding my RW as the annoying rattling sound had gone and my header now seems to be solid as a single layer pipe.. (pardon me.. I dunno what to call that kinda pipe and all that layers stuff)

 

Another annoying sound problem on my RW was the 'squeking' sound came from nowhere on my RW chasis. Satria bro was right, just tighten all the engine mounting bolt/screw and there goes the sound.. Finally disapeared.

 

Just my 2 cents. Hope this method will help to solve the same problem that most RW owner faced..

[Roadwinner]

Originally posted by stsoh@Sep 24 2006, 11:43 AM

read this in wikipedia, having some doubts.

 

EGR in Spark-Ignited (SI) Engines

In a typical automotive SI engine, 5 to 15 percent of the exhaust gas is routed back to the intake as EGR (thus comprising 5 to 15 percent of the mixture entering the cylinders).

 

The maximum quantity is limited by the requirement of the mixture to sustain a contiguous flame front during the combustion event; excessive EGR in an SI engine can cause misfires and partial burns.

 

Although EGR does measurably slow combustion, this can largely be compensated for by advancing spark timing. Contrary to popular belief, EGR actually increases the efficiency of gasoline engines via several mechanisms:

 

Reduced throttling losses.

The addition of inert exhaust gas into the intake system means that for a given power output, the throttle plate must be opened further, resulting in increased inlet manifold pressure and reduced throttling losses.

 

Reduced heat rejection.

Lowered peak combustion temperatures not only reduces NOx formation, it also reduces the loss of thermal energy to combustion chamber surfaces, leaving more available for conversion to mechanical work during the expansion stroke.

 

Reduced chemical dissociation.

The lower peak temperatures result in more of the released energy remaining as sensible energy near TDC, rather than being bound up (early in the expansion stroke) in the dissociation of combustion products. This effect is relatively minor compared to the first two.

 

EGR is typically not employed at high loads because it would reduce peak power output, and it is not employed at idle (low-speed, zero load) because it would cause unstable combustion, resulting in rough idle.

Uncle Soh,

 

Care to explain in the simplest way about the EGR stuff? Sorry coz my english is too bad. Sometimes when reading an article, I will become blur & cannot really understand or catch any point.

 

From my understanding, EGR (on RW) is related to reduce pollution produce by the engine.. Correct me if i'm wrong.. And what's the main reason to block/stop the EGR system on RW? Once, I saw on certain outer RW forums, they even show the method to block the EGR system on their RW.

 

I'm just too curious about this EGR stuff. My stock RW also equiped with EGR but recently I figured out that the system had already being block/stop since I got it. That means since that, the EGR system (hose) mounted on my RW cylinder head was not more that just a dummy.. Hmmm...

[stsoh]

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Edited July 6, 2010 by stsoh

[stsoh]

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Edited July 6, 2010 by stsoh

[MightyBoo]

i was at JB last night at the changing money area, saw a RW... the exhaust pipe is oval shape 1, woah the sound at idle is like very bass thumper kind of sound.. i feel inferior.. =( later today going to change spockets and chain le and remove the inner part of my stock exhaust pipe.. see how it goes man..

 

oh ya, i still dont know whats the proper tire pressure for my tires, i can't remember my front tire what size, but back is 140/70... so for my back tire any idea whats the pressure? I'm using swallow tires..

[stsoh]

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Edited July 6, 2010 by stsoh

[MightyBoo]

the main reason why i think i should change is because the engine tends to peak at 10krpm at about 115kph 5th gear.. the engine sounds like it wants to explode.. very scary.. how should i lower the rpm and achive 115kmp? i dont mind poorer acceleration (not so significant) and able to not go about 9 to 10krpm...

[stsoh]

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Edited July 6, 2010 by stsoh

[Satria]

Originally posted by stsoh@Oct 3 2006, 04:38 PM

how did u manage to discovered tat new 'X5' is using mj#92?

previous findings accordance to main-jet chart, mj#98 is most suitable for our hot climate @ sea level attitude.

Found out from Roy at CKA.. He told me the new bike is all using 92 MJ.. I'm trying it out now..

 

 

Was cosidering changing my tyres now that my bike is 1yrs old.. any recommendations.. I'm told we have Swallow, Metzeller, Pirelli and Dunlop as choice (arranged from cheapest to most ex here).. Also time to change sprocket and chain so tyre choice do affect my choice of sprocket size too..

[stsoh]

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Edited July 6, 2010 by stsoh

[MightyBoo]

Originally posted by stsoh@Oct 3 2006, 05:57 PM

if u change from 14t/42t to 15t/40t, drive ratio different is 12%.

with larger rear tyre 140/70, drive ratio even more likely to exceed 17%.

it will greatly affect ur pickup n no power to pull up 9,000rpm.

 

i suggest u use:

15t/42t with 140/60 rear type or

14t/42t with 140/70 rear type.

drive ratio is 5~7% more than stock.

Seems like u prefer to have the spocket stock with 140/70 rear tire.. eh in ur roadwin mod under ur signature u listed under 140/70 matches with 15/44 teeths spocket.. so err? What do you really think? stick to stock spocket teeths for my case since i using 140/70 rear swallow tires?

 

the problem is that whenever i travellin high speed, at 9krpm, speed is very close to 115kph on straight road, sometimes i even manage to hit 10krpm and very very close to 120kph.. not too sure if it was slight downhill or not, but the engine really wanted to explode, and next thing i know the engine itself stop responding even my throttle was open full... rpm drop from 10krpm down to about 2krpm.. then i release throttle until alittle open the engine started to pick up rpm again.. very scary.. horrifying..

 

under ur recommendations, urs is all DIY and i'll try playing with it sometime soon, but are there any components i can mod/upgrade to get better efficency? I'm preety okay with 115kph, but not a fan of engine about explode...

 

i might juz upgrade to kNn uni air intake and mod the stock pipe under ur recommendations..

[stsoh]

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[MightyBoo]

mmmm my swallow tire rear size is stated on the wheel, 140/70, the spocket i never count how many teeth, but it is stock, when i got this bike its all stock.. so should i aim for 15/40 teeth or 15/42 or 15/44 ? i going down JB do.. whats the normal stock spocket number of teeths?

[stsoh]

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Edited July 6, 2010 by stsoh

[MightyBoo]

Thanks alot stsoh, i figure i'll aim for 15/40t for now. I'm more of a night rider and roads to JB aren't crowded can really wack all the way since got slight up and down slopes..

 

Essential mods that im going with 1st:

- 15/40 spocket with my 140/70 swallow tires.. (Higher speed at down slope/ long straight journeys no stops..)

- Clear exhaust tube (Sound.. hope can get better performance)

- K&N universal airfilter (Sound and performance?)

 

 

Might query at the shop about racing ignitor coils.. any idea how much it cost and performance gain?

[stsoh]

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Edited July 6, 2010 by stsoh

[Guest jagger]

anyone know how much does it cost to service carb??? cause i think my carb inside is clogging. at 90km\h, sometime my rpm needle will jump up and down. once i was riding at 90km\h my needle jumps and suddenly, engine dies... shld b the carb right?

[MightyBoo]

Okay sorry i have some wrong infos on my previous post which i deleted already,

my tire size is acutally 140/60, not 140/70. the chain the boss changed to 13 yesterday instead of my requsted 15... thus top speed was 100kph at 9500rpm.

 

Today went back there.. here are the final total performance mods added:

Replaced: Front spocket now 15T (Previously 13T and previously 14T stock)

Replaced: Rear spocket now 41T (Previously 42T stock)

Replaced: Golden racing chain (Not sure what differ)

Replaced: Racing clutch plates (Not sure what differ but it feels tougher coz its new)

Replaced: Break pads front and rear

Replaced: Engine oil carltex, with a small can of another oil (Looks like Gel.. thick fluid..)

Repaired: Passing by light switch

Moded: inner tube exhaust pipe removed, another self fabricated meshed tube replaced, comments below...

Removed: the plastic white cup in the air intake filter..

And normal retune engine..

All for close to 450ringgit

 

Comments:

Pickup: Feels more efficent

Top end speed: Hits 100kph faster, 110kph cruising speed, 120kph at 93 to 9500rpm.. able to drag all the way but will slow down when hit up slope.

Exhaust sound: Low ramming of throttle sounds bassy and it growls.. mid ramming of throttle.. bassy+high pitch (like kr/tzm sp bikes) ... high end ramming (8 to 10krpm).. bassy+ even higher pitch.. no growling.. but have wahwahwah sound+ blistering sound.. decently loud..

 

Thats all about it.. Preety worth my 450 ringgit, not going to do any more performance mod le.. any comments?

 

UPDATE:

110kph at 8500rpm (preety quick to reach at level road)

120kph at 9200rpm (decent pace to reach at level road)

125kph at 9600rpm (must be at decent down slope)

128kph at 9999rpm (very close to 10krpm redline.. on decent down slope )

 

I can't take it anymore liao.. the sound is too freaking loud when revving.. but theres noticable power increase.. but too loud... at e-way... i figure its because boss went to add his own make tube and welded it with the exhaust end inner end plate...

 

If i remove that inner tube, would the sound be less louder?

[MightyBoo]

Originally posted by jagger@Oct 4 2006, 01:17 PM

anyone know how much does it cost to service carb??? cause i think my carb inside is clogging. at 90km\h, sometime my rpm needle will jump up and down. once i was riding at 90km\h my needle jumps and suddenly, engine dies... shld b the carb right?

You should go down to orginal agents.. CKA to query.. there are a number of reasons. Besides did u change ur spockets? I noticed that i can drag at close to 10krpm at top gear my previous problem did't arise ... (engine rpm suddenly drop all the way down) since i did the my modifications.. i had a clutch issue and i changed my clutch plates..

[stsoh]

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Edited July 6, 2010 by stsoh

[MightyBoo]

Here are the next and last performance spending:

Removed: I paid 12SGD at CKA to remove the damm inner pipe which is welded to an inner end plate.. which was fabricated by the JB boss.. and finally, It sounds bassy, choppy, and NOT RUDE! yay i'm preety happy with the sound liao.. but i wasted money for asking jb boss to fabricate his own inner tube pipe and now i throw away.. but its all about trail and error =)

 

Errr.. in CKA i..

Replaced: OEM oil filter (Damm black.. wasn't aware need to replace once per 2 oil change.)

Replaced: Air intake filter replaced with OEM daelim as recommended by the boss.. comments below..

Mod: exhaust remove inner tube..

 

Was talking to CKA boss about his opinions on K&N universal air filter and OEM air filter.. he was more for OEM air filter ... can't really hear what he talkin coz of the shop noise... Any comments?

 

Also i found out that OEM daelim clutch plates at CKA are much more cheaper.. about 68sgd bucks if i remember correctly.. in JB boss charge me 200+ ringgit which is about 90SGD .. =( Duno what differ also.. feel kena cheated.

 

The shop that i go to in JB is at the ah gua road, its call hoe heng motor shop... they DO NOT CARRY essential daelim roadwin parts, be sure to know what you doing when they notify you about installin other manufactures parts which might require them to modify to fit in..

 

I don't know the the street signs to the shop, but i remember the way.. they are specialised more to sports bikes..

 

Heres the address:

No. 3B Jalan Tun Abdul Razak

Susur 4, 80000 Johor Bahru

 

basically its very near customs. All in all, there are parts that are real cheap, and other parts over priced (Compared to OEM daelim parts from CKA)