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Posted
stock is chrome.

ss is yellowish/tanish color.

instead of 1 1/8" ss header, they should actually order custom made 3/4" ss header.

power increase can be achieved by tuning carb rich.

small engine horsepower gain is not very much.

even if it is 1 hp gain, don't have significant impact.

 

i still dun get the tuning carb rich thing..

i think i'm getting overflow of fuel, but dunno how to tune. are the needle clip and pilot screw the only factors?

 

 

is the IXIL pipe legal?

 

don think so..

http://www.nea.gov.sg/cms/mss/gif/rainloc0.gif

 

"Riding a slow bike fast is always more fun than riding a fast bike slow."

Posted
for carb, there r three:

1) pilot (air-mix) screw.

2) jet needle eclip positions.

3) main-jet (orific sizes, eg. #92, #95, #98, #100, #102, #105, #108).

 

there is another component, slow-jet (#38) but very seldom ppl will change this unless there is problem at idling n low rpm.

 

speaking of jet needle, roy changed mine to one with a steeper taper, slightly thinner than the stock one. do u know wad factors wld tat affect??

 

can i oso ask, wad does top servicing (of the engine, or is it called top overhaull???? ) do to the bike? i mean, wad will they do? i know they will clean valves, but can we clean valves ourselves??

wad other things are included in top servicing?

http://www.nea.gov.sg/cms/mss/gif/rainloc0.gif

 

"Riding a slow bike fast is always more fun than riding a fast bike slow."

Posted

tappet clearance issit the cam lobe n valve gap? if not, wads tappet clearance?

 

well, i told roy abt my bike not being able to go past 8k rpm, he said maybe it's due to valve carbon build up. if i nv rmbr wrongly, tats wad i gathered from him. so he suggested doing a top servicing.

 

aft changing to a thinner jet needle, i feel better response. faster or stronger i cant really comment, because i'm in the midst of optimising my tuning. as of now, i'm using #100 main jet. i know that my build is stock except, the SS header and the jet needle which i just changed to thinner one. i'm experieincing fuel overflow, which roy advised is due to the SS header. wad i did was to take out the air filter cover, thus allowing a bigger air flow. i figured this raised the air aspect of the air/fuel ratio. but i didn't think this the correct way, i tot i should be changing the fuel ratio, but i just cant figure out how to change. since i'm using stock main jet, i think my fuel setting shd more or less be stock rite? does the SS header affect this?

http://www.nea.gov.sg/cms/mss/gif/rainloc0.gif

 

"Riding a slow bike fast is always more fun than riding a fast bike slow."

Posted

hello everybody from germany!

 

i´m a roadwin owner from germany.. :-)

here in germany they sell the normal roaodwin with carburetor and the new roadwin FI with fuel injection.... and only 125cc... the 150cc cannot be bought in here :-(

 

i found this site at google and i find it very interessing..

here in europe there are not very much roadwins on the road... so there are not many people who drive a... only 3000 where sold in 2006 in europe(!) and only 2500 in 2007.

 

i have a roadwin 125cc with carburetor and 12,8 ponys...

its abt 4 months old and i drove about 4000kms with it.

 

everything is stock , fuel consumption is 31km/l and that is great... fuel is very expensive here....

 

i need some ideas to make my roadwin a bit faster....

i heard abt to change from 14/42 to 15/42... is that a good idea?

Posted
yes, tappet clearances is the gap btwn rocker tip end n valve top end.

there is a maintenance check at certain km, check your manual.

 

valve carbon will always be there even after lapping it, expanded carbon is soft n can act as sealant.

 

i've mentioned many times,

installed ss header will result in power loss at low rpm.

to remedied it, weld a 3/4 inch hole steel washer at the muffler mount end.

or change back to original stock header.

 

fuel overflow???

nothing to do with ss header.

it is carb float in the carb bowl tat let fuel into the bowl.

 

tuning carb is very basic, tune for correct mixture 14.7 air to 1 fuel wt.

if carb is stock, best setting for power:

1) pilot screw @ 2 1/2 turns.

2) jet-needle's eclip @ 4th slot

(note: thinner shank jet-needle is not recommend, prefer u switch to orig).

 

lastly, check accelerator cam adjustment to max.

 

:goodluck:

 

i understand abt the carb part. but it seems tat i just cant get the rite ratio despite those settings u mentioned. n my fc is constantly 26-28 instead of my original 30-32. is there any other things tat might affect my fc??

http://www.nea.gov.sg/cms/mss/gif/rainloc0.gif

 

"Riding a slow bike fast is always more fun than riding a fast bike slow."

Posted
hello everybody from germany!

 

i´m a roadwin owner from germany.. :-)

here in germany they sell the normal roaodwin with carburetor and the new roadwin FI with fuel injection.... and only 125cc... the 150cc cannot be bought in here :-(

 

i found this site at google and i find it very interessing..

here in europe there are not very much roadwins on the road... so there are not many people who drive a... only 3000 where sold in 2006 in europe(!) and only 2500 in 2007.

 

i have a roadwin 125cc with carburetor and 12,8 ponys...

its abt 4 months old and i drove about 4000kms with it.

 

everything is stock , fuel consumption is 31km/l and that is great... fuel is very expensive here....

 

i need some ideas to make my roadwin a bit faster....

i heard abt to change from 14/42 to 15/42... is that a good idea?

 

Hi Kenny! Welcome! Feel free to share your experience with you roadwin as we learn from each other :p

Posted
hello everybody from germany!

 

i´m a roadwin owner from germany.. :-)

here in germany they sell the normal roaodwin with carburetor and the new roadwin FI with fuel injection.... and only 125cc... the 150cc cannot be bought in here :-(

 

i found this site at google and i find it very interessing..

here in europe there are not very much roadwins on the road... so there are not many people who drive a... only 3000 where sold in 2006 in europe(!) and only 2500 in 2007.

 

i have a roadwin 125cc with carburetor and 12,8 ponys...

its abt 4 months old and i drove about 4000kms with it.

 

everything is stock , fuel consumption is 31km/l and that is great... fuel is very expensive here....

 

i need some ideas to make my roadwin a bit faster....

i heard abt to change from 14/42 to 15/42... is that a good idea?

 

Hi Kenny! Welcome! Feel free to share your experience with your roadwin as we learn from each other :p

Posted

good luck bro! update us on the good news ah..

2008 July - 2010 March: Daelim Roadwin R 125 (FBC 8363 K)

2010 March - 2011 September: SYM GTS 200 (FBD 7445 J)

2011 September - 2013 April: Yamaha Fazer fz6s2 (FBB 5824 Y)

2013 March - now: Honda NC700XD (FBH **** D)

Posted

Hey Guys.. be careful when ure on the road these few days.. its damm slippery and lots of accidents have been happening. ( seen 3 car accidents in the past 24 hrs) Everyone ride safety okie?

Legal to ride/drive- HOw the **** do i Know?

[Daelim Roadwin 200] - 2007 - 2009

[Hyundai Getz 1.4A] - 2009 -current

 

HOw I wish my Roadwin can do this.. hahaha

[Going Crazy with my Roadwin]

http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/8628/daelim-roadwin-04-bikepics-427680.jpg

Posted

ya. that day i heading home from camp, entering the sle from yishun towards tpe side, the road turns left.. almost self skidded on the highway connectors.. u know that strip that connects 2 pieces of highway? yea.

be careful everyone!

2008 July - 2010 March: Daelim Roadwin R 125 (FBC 8363 K)

2010 March - 2011 September: SYM GTS 200 (FBD 7445 J)

2011 September - 2013 April: Yamaha Fazer fz6s2 (FBB 5824 Y)

2013 March - now: Honda NC700XD (FBH **** D)

Posted
Hey Guys.. be careful when ure on the road these few days.. its damm slippery and lots of accidents have been happening. ( seen 3 car accidents in the past 24 hrs) Everyone ride safety okie?

 

 

My opinion is that when u r on the road, whether it is sunny or rainy day, safety precaution always comes first...

 

 

:bouncefire:

:popcorn:
Posted
Carb tuning, Is It Lean or Rich?

 

To determine if the bike is lean (to little fuel for the amount of air reaching the engine through the carburetor) at any given throttle opening, partially cover the air-filter intake with a piece of duct tape; if the carburetion improves, it's running lean. If you suspect the bike is running rich (too much fuel in the air-fuel mixture), remove the airbox top or the air cleaner element; if the changes are for the better, the bike was running too rich.

 

If your bike is equipped with a manual fuel shut-off (or you're clever enough to disconnect and plug the fuel lines), take the bike for a ride with the fuel turned off. If it runs worse as the float bowl drains, it's lean. If it gets better, it's rich.

 

Troubleshooting

 

A lean condition is the end result of too little fuel and too much air. Slightly lean conditions create drivability problems. Worst-case scenario: Lean conditions can and do destroy engines. Holes in the pistons, burnt valves and trashed main bearings are the direct result of lean mixtures.

 

Rich mixtures are the end result of too much fuel and too little air. Rich mixtures waste fuel, contribute to carbon buildup and pollute the air.

 

Typical Lean Conditions:

 

- Poor acceleration; the engine feels flat.

 

- The engine won't respond when the throttle is snapped open, but it picks up speed as the throttle is closed. (A too-large main jet also mimics this symptom.)

 

- The engine runs hot, knocks, pings and overheats.

 

- The engine surges or hunts when cruising at part-throttle.

 

- Popping or spitting through the carb occurs when the throttle is opened. Or popping and spitting occurs through the pipe on deceleration with a closed throttle.

 

- The engine runs better in warm weather, worse in cool.

 

- Performance gets worse when the air filter is removed.

 

Typical Rich Conditions

 

- Engine acceleration is flat and uneven and loses that "crisp" feel.

 

- The engine "eight-strokes" as it loads up and skips combustion cycles.

 

- The engine's idle is rough or lumpy, and the engine won't return to idle without "blipping" the throttle.

 

- The throttle needs to be open continuously to maintain acceleration.

 

- Black, sooty plugs, a sooty exhaust pipe and black smoke from the tailpipe that stinks of unburned fuel.

 

- Poor fuel economy.

 

- The engine works better when cold. Performance falls off as it warms up or the ambient temperature rises.

 

- Engine performance improves when the air cleaner is removed.

 

thanks for the info!

 

 

yea guys i passed my TP liao!

 

Now time to save up for bike!

=]]]]]]]]]]

 

 

congrats!!!! hope to c u on the road soon!

http://www.nea.gov.sg/cms/mss/gif/rainloc0.gif

 

"Riding a slow bike fast is always more fun than riding a fast bike slow."

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