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Posted
hm, i cant seem to open the link. btw how much do they cost?

i went down to LAB n they gave me one japan unknown brand ($8, use on X1) n one fizz power ($12) brake pads but i still prefer better known brands like ebc, ferodo, sbs, vesrah or gold fren.

Posted
minor problem: 14t front sprocket n retaining bracket with x-ring chain.

it seem tat the chain large size links is riding on edges of the retaining bracket.

grinded off bracket tip end to have 1mm clearance between chain link n bracket.

use allen head bolts (M6 x 10mm).

 

u won't have this problem if u r using 15t front sprocket.

currently i'm using 14t front n 42t rear sprockets.

 

how i found it:

at speed above 100 kph, i got this grutting sound n find out this problem.

 

wow sir! i really salute ur expertise in this!!!

 

side track a bit, i'm thinking of upgrading to CBR400RRL. cos you rode on alot of bikes before right, any feedback on this model?

http://www.nea.gov.sg/cms/mss/gif/rainloc0.gif

 

"Riding a slow bike fast is always more fun than riding a fast bike slow."

Posted (edited)

cbr400 is very very old bike, my advise don't buy it.

can't recall any other sport 400 except for cbr, gsxr n rvf (don't get all these, they r too old).

naked S4 (cb400s3) n gsr400 r consider better options.

y not wait another year n get a class2 licence then get a litre bike which r far more thrilling/fun to ride than a 400.

1000cc can easily speed pass above 200 kph with less effort than a 400cc (max actual is 180 kph, speedometer can show 200+ kph) struggling.

400cc = 40~50hp whereas 1000cc = 120~180hp.

maintenance-wise is about the same.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

oh. in the end i just changed the original daelim pads. abit ex tho. $25

2008 July - 2010 March: Daelim Roadwin R 125 (FBC 8363 K)

2010 March - 2011 September: SYM GTS 200 (FBD 7445 J)

2011 September - 2013 April: Yamaha Fazer fz6s2 (FBB 5824 Y)

2013 March - now: Honda NC700XD (FBH **** D)

Posted

there r cheap pads n there r expensive pads, oem @ $25 is ok price.

once u start to ride superbike then u can feel the pinch.

everything parts will be expensive coz u want the best of the best qualities.

Posted

yep. however i was warned about the brakepad when new its not effective, gotta be careful for awhile. i guess cos still smooth or sth?

2008 July - 2010 March: Daelim Roadwin R 125 (FBC 8363 K)

2010 March - 2011 September: SYM GTS 200 (FBD 7445 J)

2011 September - 2013 April: Yamaha Fazer fz6s2 (FBB 5824 Y)

2013 March - now: Honda NC700XD (FBH **** D)

Posted

reason is the new pads surfaces r flat, while your rotor has grooves created by wear n tear from old pads.

u need to do some hard braking for new pads to embed into those grooves.

first do a few slow (30~40kph) hard brakings.

when u r confident n check no vehicles behind.

do a few fast (50~60kph) hard braking.

u will feel it really biting then it is done.

Posted

oh ok.. thanks alot. takes just a few times only?

2008 July - 2010 March: Daelim Roadwin R 125 (FBC 8363 K)

2010 March - 2011 September: SYM GTS 200 (FBD 7445 J)

2011 September - 2013 April: Yamaha Fazer fz6s2 (FBB 5824 Y)

2013 March - now: Honda NC700XD (FBH **** D)

Posted

it depends on the pad material.

organic pad - softest pad for small bike like ours.

sintered pad - intermediate pad embedded with metal like copper or bronze.

HH or Double H pad - toughest pad, use on superbikes can withstand high heat n pressure.

Posted

oh ok. i had a look at the pads before he installed it. i think its sintered pad..

2008 July - 2010 March: Daelim Roadwin R 125 (FBC 8363 K)

2010 March - 2011 September: SYM GTS 200 (FBD 7445 J)

2011 September - 2013 April: Yamaha Fazer fz6s2 (FBB 5824 Y)

2013 March - now: Honda NC700XD (FBH **** D)

Posted
cbr400 is very very old bike, my advise don't buy it.

can't recall any other sport 400 except for cbr, gsxr n rvf (don't get all these, they r too old).

naked S4 (cb400s3) n gsr400 r consider better options.

y not wait another year n get a class2 licence then get a litre bike which r far more thrilling/fun to ride than a 400.

1000cc can easily speed pass above 200 kph with less effort than a 400cc (max actual is 180 kph, speedometer can show 200+ kph) struggling.

400cc = 40~50hp whereas 1000cc = 120~180hp.

maintenance-wise is about the same.

 

maintenance abt the same? i tot litre bikes are definitely more exp to upkeep...????

http://www.nea.gov.sg/cms/mss/gif/rainloc0.gif

 

"Riding a slow bike fast is always more fun than riding a fast bike slow."

Posted

maintenance like oil change use the same quantities 3.6 litres, 4 spark plugs n one each air n oil filters.

chain, sprockets, tires your choices of qualities n higher specs items only cost slightly more if u select top specs.

engine components will be more expensives to replace compare to S4.

coz S4 is more popular can get it's components cheaper, even stolen parts.

1000cc engine fc avg 12~14km/l, heavy throttle twisting easily below 10km/l but if kept below 80 kph can do 16~18km/l.

400cc avg fc is 18~20km/l, don't believe those guys say they r doing 24km/l (constantly below 80kph), heavy throttling below 18km/l.

more or less these r the differents btwn 400 n 1000cc bikes.

1000cc engine is more durable, it's engine won't stress n wear more than 400cc does.

Posted
hmm... i'm looking 150cc black anyway thanks..

 

 

Want a 125 black? Nice paint.. Minor scratches... All in the avatar..

[31 Jan '08] - A Qualified Rider.

[19 Mar '08] - Daelim Roadwin 125

 

Between looks and speed, I pick looks.

Posted

i brought newfren brake pads ($20 each, DIY) from chong aik at gordon warehouse.

 

NewFren

front pad code: FD.0130 (BS/BR/S2)(compatible 250).

rear pad code: FD.0208 (BS).

 

they didn't have FD.0130 BS, brought FD.0250 BS instead.

only different btwn 0130 n 0250 is a cut slot at the end of 0250.

 

wanted to install today, after removed the pads i saw the old pads still had sufficient material decide not to change so soon, save it for later use.

 

also broke the speedo cable, did a $2 repair...eproxy patch.

plastic too fragile, during removing brake caliper lazy to remove the cable holder bracket thus this happen.

 

tat's it for today.

Posted (edited)

forgot to mention, another thing i'm trying out.

i found tat the jet-needle slot worn due to vibration of eclip.

this is my second jet-needle so try something to dampening the vibration effects, dunno whether it help or not.

this is wat i do, use mica (it's like paper type) washers.

normally found in computer where it is use to mount motherboard onto the case.

i place one on top n another below, shift the eclip to 2nd slot.

with the washer below the eclip will up lift almost the same as eclip in 3rd slot.

top washer to cushion retainer spring load.

hope it works.

 

update:

i decided to put another washer under the eclip to make it richer.

so take my acceleration (pickup) is better.

now when i give full throttle n release, it pop (backfire).

Edited by stsoh
Posted

Hey guys...

Even though i'm still in the process of completing my license, i kinda wanna learn abit from you guys lah the normal stuff like maintainance, fuel consumption...

 

I'm eyeing SP lah as my first bike but, not realli a great fan of 2strokes, no offence...

Love roadwin R, big, nice, EFI....but i'm enlisting soon so, guess i wanna get a second hand roadwin, so i would actualli wud like to know, is roadwin capable for everyday riding, expressway and all, how the fuel consumption like?

And also how do actualli maintain a 4stroke bike? cuz i am the only one taking license in my whole family, so noone to realli guide me lah...So i'm out to learn from you guys, the regular riders. TANX!

WR200"SM" Rockstar, X1R "BumbleBee", R "Lek Chek" 135, "Ah Pee La" RS 125

 

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd397/Mandonut/ff514f46.jpg

Posted

hi Man Donut,

welcome to rw thread.

rw = roadwin, old naked model from 2004~07.

rwR = roadwin R or roadsport, it is the latest 2008 model sport with fairings.

 

if u r getting the old naked model (2004~6) which is 125cc,

there is a 2007 naked model 150cc (actual is 140.2cc), also named as 'X5'.

both r carburator naked model, i believe EFI didn't make it to our shore.

 

the new rwR is EFI with different engine which is water-cool.

it is better u visit the sportbike thread where roadwinR n mega2b threads r located.

 

most of the rwR owners r active in mega2b n u can ask them about rwR at sportbike section.

 

naked model 2004~07 maintenance is like any 2b bikes.

fuel consumption (fc) is higher than most 2b bikes due to heavy weight n bigger/larger tires.

stock avg fc is 30km/l but if u change the carb settings u can go as low as 26 km/l.

it make the ride better n more fun, also makes the engine run cooler.

 

maintenances:

one litre of engine oil change on every 4,000km.

one oil filter on alternate oil change, it means two oil change n one oil filter change.

one normal spark plug on every 10,000km, if u use iridium spark plug then change on every 50,000km.

one air-filter change on every 20,000km.

change battery every 2~3 years.

change brake n fork oil every 2 years.

change tires, brake pads, chain, sprockets as when it is worn out.

 

lastly;

rw has air-cool engine.

max speed is 110kph.

two vibration zone at 4~5k n >8k rpm.

it's not a fast bike, from 50~100kph takes about 14 sec.

but if your carb is set richer then from 50~100kph takes about 10 sec.

Posted

Tanx for the detail advise Mr StSoh,

 

Aniwez, a realli big possibility that i will get RW, cause i love the naked outlook, speed wise should be enough for expressway rite? I'm not realli a speed demon. 110kph is quite fast.

RW should be great for getting me from point A to B rite?

Fuel consumption seems quite good for its size.

 

BUt Mr StSOh, i saw a Hyosung comet beside a rW beside my block, whats the different? Looks quite the same except that their engine size and shape.

 

And i just actualli ask, is it hard to do the carb adjustment, i'm not realli tool smart but alwaes willing to DIY and learn how to do it....

 

Tanx Again!

WR200"SM" Rockstar, X1R "BumbleBee", R "Lek Chek" 135, "Ah Pee La" RS 125

 

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd397/Mandonut/ff514f46.jpg

Posted (edited)

comet use v-twin engine.

rw use 4-valve single piston engine.

 

v-twin engine is more difficult to tune as compare to single piston.

carb tuning is thru trial n error processes.

changing one part at a time to find which will be beneficial or not.

running too rich air/fuel mixture does not neccessary means good performance.

we seek 14.7gm of air to 1gm of fuel ratio stoich for perfect burn but carb can't meter this accuracy, at best 12~16:1.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio

 

for me, single carb tuning is simple becoz i know wat to do.

by experiencing one can learn wat is good or bad.

knowledge is power if u know how to use it.

read n research then hand-on to gain experiences.

nobody can stop u from learning if u r will to.

 

b4 u start learning how to tune your bike,

u must learn how to ride your bike with confident or get your licence first.

it is not adviseable to jump gun b4 anything else do one step at a time.

even tuning a carb is a step at a time.

i didn't get my bike to current state in one day, took me 4 yrs to do it.

n still doing minor alterations.

Edited by stsoh
Posted
maintenance like oil change use the same quantities 3.6 litres, 4 spark plugs n one each air n oil filters.

 

i tot 1000cc bikes use more EO? cos their cylinders are bigger (both bore n stroke), hence more EO is needed. is it not like that?

http://www.nea.gov.sg/cms/mss/gif/rainloc0.gif

 

"Riding a slow bike fast is always more fun than riding a fast bike slow."

Posted
forgot to mention, another thing i'm trying out.

i found tat the jet-needle slot worn due to vibration of eclip.

this is my second jet-needle so try something to dampening the vibration effects, dunno whether it help or not.

this is wat i do, use mica (it's like paper type) washers.

normally found in computer where it is use to mount motherboard onto the case.

i place one on top n another below, shift the eclip to 2nd slot.

with the washer below the eclip will up lift almost the same as eclip in 3rd slot.

top washer to cushion retainer spring load.

hope it works.

 

update:

i decided to put another washer under the eclip to make it richer.

so take my acceleration (pickup) is better.

now when i give full throttle n release, it pop (backfire).

 

hi sir.. may i ask, is throttle response compromised when u use the washer method? another thing is, the backfire thing adds too much carbon into the whole combustion - exhaust system right???

http://www.nea.gov.sg/cms/mss/gif/rainloc0.gif

 

"Riding a slow bike fast is always more fun than riding a fast bike slow."

Posted (edited)
i tot 1000cc bikes use more EO? cos their cylinders are bigger (both bore n stroke), hence more EO is needed. is it not like that?

 

no huge difference from 4-inline cyl 400cc to 1000cc, maybe 1500cc just abit more engine oil but still no more than 4 litres.

big v-twin or parallel-twin also use about 3.2~3.6 litres of engine oil.

most cars

Edited by stsoh

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