[Group] DAELIM roadwin

[SevenZ]

i am using amsoil... so far so good... it is smooth.. personally i like them...

but my friend riding x1-r complain to me for intro that oil to him... he say his bike lost power and all sort, he say that his $10 castrol is much more better then amsoil...

ahaha.. but for rw, it good... hahaha...

alot of 2strokers use castrol as it is cheap, and the 2 strokers only need the oil to lube their gear and clutch..

 

i tot 2stroke bikes use gear oil ? and 2t oil thats consumable?

i think ur fren think that castrol more power because its "thinner" so require less horses to overcome the oil?

[lazykatak]

most 2 stroker in singapore doesnt use gear oil.. they can use gear oil, but most prefer 4t oil as it it readily available... some 2stroker even use the high end 4t oil for their bike and change the same milage as the 4 stroker...

i have a friend totaly freak out to found out his mech using gear oil on his bike...

i told him its ok as long as it is suitable for wet clutch, but the next day he have it drain out and change to his usual castrol....

 

i will be either sticking to royal purple or maxima as it is has the value for money (below $20), all the other oil i tried like liquid moly, amsoil, motul etc is over $20....

as my bike is just for transport purpose, the lower the $$ the better, and not to comprimise the quality of oil... i will balls down to only 1 type of oil after a few more try between royal and maxim.... the advantage of maxima is that it is available in most place...

[NoFishesAllowed]

icic

lazykatak where could i find maxima then? is the 22$ amsoil not as worth as rp and maxima

 

the first few km since i use ows from cka during servicing was rough.. however, now i find its very nice and smooth.. any explanations to that?

 

anyone tried racing footrest on rw?

Edited July 27, 2010 by NoFishesAllowed

[stsoh]

mustafa sell maxima at top floor, car accessories section.

there various types, full syn oe selling at >S$20, synblend 20w-50 extra is semi syn sell at S$16.

i think i read somewhere tat sanfu, near cka-hq, also sell maxima but dun know if they sell at the same price or not, maybe slightly more expensive.

[NoFishesAllowed]

it's not a motorshop but a retail shop tat sell rp in central part of sillypore.

 

castrol is the worst of all eo.

it's mineral oil processed thru hydro-crack n labeled as full/semi syn eo.

after a week of run, u have problems like :

difficulty shifting to neutral, difficulty/rough/hard gearshift,

jump to neutral when shifting from first to second, rougher engine run.

 

.

 

r all castrol mineral oil processed ? castrol r4 which label fully synthetic also

processed thru hydro-crack n labeled as fulli syn eo?

[NoFishesAllowed]

stsoh: have u tried maxima?

[stsoh]

stsoh: have u tried maxima?

 

no, i will try it on my next oil change after october.

[stsoh]

r all castrol mineral oil processed ? castrol r4 which label fully synthetic also

processed thru hydro-crack n labeled as fulli syn eo?

 

true full syn eo will print in their bottle with ester, poly-ester or pao.

u never see these printed on castrol eo label.

others like motul, maxima, silkolene (fuchs), amsoil, mobil, etc......they will print it.

 

all these was started by castrol in the 70s, when they actually won the case against mobil to label their oil as full syn thru hydro-crack processes.

other oil manufacturers follows using the same ruse, as long as u dun see in print even labeled as full syn it's not.

Edited July 27, 2010 by stsoh

[NoFishesAllowed]

icic.. wow... nice job by castrol.. hahah.. confuse my life..

 

erm...... anyone tried mod for racing footrest? i dun like it when i feel my legs so straight

[lazykatak]

icic

lazykatak where could i find maxima then? is the 22$ amsoil not as worth as rp and maxima

 

the first few km since i use ows from cka during servicing was rough.. however, now i find its very nice and smooth.. any explanations to that?

 

anyone tried racing footrest on rw?

 

maxima is available at most bike shop, and mustapha... i personally bought it at mustapha center...

amsoil is great, saving a few bucks for an oil that is abt the same stadard as one another is better value for money i think...

hehehe... *cheapskate*

 

for OWS, i also notice abt the oil is when it go over 2kkm, but i dun like the feeling.. as it makes me think that there is no oil left in my engine..

u know like the feeling that sumting is amiss??

hahahha

im not touching any OWS porduct anymore...

[NoFishesAllowed]

 

as it makes me think that there is no oil left in my engine..

u know like the feeling that sumting is amiss??

 

how do u feel that way? like change gear not so smooth and got a "tuck" feel?

 

yesterday when i started my bike at neutral and change to 1st it stalled.. then i try again and still happens for a few times so i got out and row my bike for about 2m and try again and ok le

and sometimes i from neutral change to 1st very hard at stationary...

why is this so?

 

 

 

 

 

anyone tried visually modifiying ur rw

Edited July 28, 2010 by NoFishesAllowed

[stsoh]

side stand is down when engage first gear, engine will cut-off.

it's a safety feature, kill-switch is 'ON' when engage gear if side stand is down.

 

r u talking about castrol eo tat u r using now or other brand eo??

castrol eo is like any other brand mineral oil.

u pay premium for castrol.

might as well get other brand mineral oil, it's a lot cheaper.

[NoFishesAllowed]

how do u feel that way? like change gear not so smooth and got a "tuck" feel?

 

yesterday when i started my bike at neutral and change to 1st it stalled.. then i try again and still happens for a few times so i got out and row my bike for about 2m and try again and ok le

and sometimes i from neutral change to 1st very hard at stationary...

why is this so?

 

 

 

 

 

anyone tried visually modifiying ur rw

 

 

about ows eo.

 

 

 

icic... i think is my stand then

my stand recoil very lousy... like the spring stretched until no tension

[stsoh]

if ur side stand is sticky, try spray wd40 at the joint becoz of rust.

lubricate the joint or apply grease so tat it is free to move.

 

ows......i've not use it b4.

presumably same as castrol if it didn't label with ester, poly-ester or pao.

 

read this about syn oil:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil

[NoFishesAllowed]

what happens if you put too much eo?

[stsoh]

too much oil can create hydraulic lock.

which means there will be resistance/pressure build up inside the engine chamber.

in worst cases, something/parts/gaskets/seals will gives way/break.

[NoFishesAllowed]

just change AMSoil... haha.. too curious to wait...cos the ows sux big time...

changing to neutral is not as hard... usually i take a few tries.. now lesser triesX.x this bike neutral hard to find sometimes:/

haaha..

[NoFishesAllowed]

 

my carb settings:

slow-jet#40 (stock #38),

main-jet#102 (stock #100),

jet-needle clip @ slot #3,

pilot(air)-screw @ 1.25 (1 1/4) turn.

 

sprocket ratio is 15t/44t with rk x-ring chain.

 

air-filter is DIY high-flow KnN air-filter.

 

exhaust header is stainless steel 1 1/8" ID with restrictors (3/4" hole steel washers) welded at both ends.

(cka sell the stainless header, didn't even knows tat rw will loss power at low rpm or any engine with bigger pipes will loss power at low rpm. after much research, came to a conclusion tat 3/4" header is much more suitable than 1 1/8". bigger isn't better.)

 

muffler's db silencer removed.

 

 

engine modded to X5, 140cc.

horsepower wasn't any different from 125cc after modded to 140cc if carb wasn't setup properly.

tat's why i retuned the carb by myself, not by cka n now it is far better than b4.

 

if i dunno how to diy, where do i go to do this? how much did the engine mod cost u ?

 

i using simota air filter . how is it.

[stsoh]

my engine mod is from 125cc to 140.2cc if ur is x5, it is already 140.2cc.

if not, u have to ask cka to quote the price for engine mod.

 

diy stuff, u have to be handy in mechanical stuff.

otherwise pay someone to do it for u.

tat wun be satisfactory coz it's a lot more fun n satisfying to do it by yourself.

 

for carb, main-jet#102 (S$5/pc) n slow-jet#40 (S$7/pc).

i brought it from fjt @ rowell rd n change it, DIY.

trial different pilot(air)-screw settings to find appropriate optimum (1.25 turn).

 

1.1" stainless steel header brought from cka, not satisfy with performance.

i just bring it to any welding shop n had it welded 3/4" hole steel washer.

 

diy, muffler db silencer removal.

 

diy, mod high-flow KnN air-filter.

 

basically it's up to individual owner how he/she wanted his/her bike to be.

if i'm not satisfy with it, i had to do something to satisfy my ride.

currently luv riding it but it's not the same as riding a litre bike.

simple single engine r easy to deal with.

for big bike, i can't simply do wat i want, had to spend 10 times $$$$ more.

[NoFishesAllowed]

how to knw if x5? my got sticker say x5 but i dunno if x5

how u diy muffler? i tot must cut the exhaust?

who tot u all these>

[stsoh]

.....

 

i using simota air filter . how is it.

 

i'm not sure coz i have not use it b4........how is ur bike performance b4 n after?

basically, stock air-filter is just as good.

minor carb tweak can improve bike performance from stock.

Edited July 30, 2010 by stsoh

[stsoh]

how to knw if x5? my got sticker say x5 but i dunno if x5

how u diy muffler? i tot must cut the exhaust?

who tot u all these>

 

check engine bottom side, it has engraved 125cc.

not sure which side, also not sure whether ur will be engraved or not.

no one can't tell unless strip down engine n measure the cylinder bore n crank stroke height.

if ur originally a x5 then presumably should have 140cc engraved.

 

diy, if u r not handy ask cka whether they want to do it for u or not.

four rivets at the muffler end, if u know how to remove rivets, if not dun do it.

i use 6mm drill bit to remove the rivet head n 4mm drill bit to remove rivet body.

once rivets r removed, tap the end cap loose then remove cap n db silencer.

place back to end cap n rivet back, done.

may sound simple but it's not tat simple.

u need tools to complete the job, do u have it???

simple tools like electric drill, drill bits (carbide 4mm, 6mm), rivets (3/16" dia X 1/2" length) n riveting gun.

 

no cuttings, do not punch holes at the baffler (plate at mid section of muffler).

diy, needs to satisfy oneself, mechanically well verse n years of experience (mech2mgt2it2retired).

Edited July 30, 2010 by stsoh

[NoFishesAllowed]

i definitely dun have tt >

so do you change back anything before inspection?

any performance increase when u did tt to ur exhaust?

[stsoh]

didn't have to change back, passed w/o problem.

db level is below 80 decibel, very much softer than 2 stroke.

somehow the sound cancel out each other at high rev.

 

my bike overall performance improved vs stock.

runs cooler, start easy, pickup fairly good.

of course, needless to say higher fc, more power burns more fuel.

 

performance increase is not due to only exhaust system.

improve performance is base on sufficiency input, optimum generate power, efficiency output.

 

wat it mean is:

1) sufficient input (high flow air),

2) optimum power (tune carb air/fuel mix = 14.7:1 wt),

3) efficient output (efficient exhaust gas out flow with back pressure).

 

u can't have one without the others.

Edited July 30, 2010 by stsoh

[NoFishesAllowed]

so if i only do the exhaust wont work? wad is db btw?

my fren who drives pulsar removes his silencer and stopper...is tt wad u did too?