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Posted
Ehm' date=' as much as I don;t usually go into the debate of hard break in vs soft, I do believe it is very important the oil is mineral or at least semi. You know, little particles of metals floating around and all that new engine getting itchy needing as little oil resistance to get into scratching mode.. :) But you most certainly have more experience in this than me if you've owned several bikes and tested it, I just write what I read over the years :cheeky:[/quote']

 

To be honest, I've never owned a first hand bike. I studied engine oil alot, so i just dun find any advantage. But of course with exceptions like Piston is new and its rough, then again, what's what?

 

I'm not here to debate :D I'm just here to find out how everybody views this. I might follow and might not, but at least I have everyone's knowledge of this and make a choice.

 

Why mineral or semi? Is it because it's rougher then fully syn?

 

Why not fully syn? If fully syn is better in fiction reduction, is it better to let the pistons go normally?

 

How about hard run-ins? Do they also use mineral oils? Just curious!

Posted
CB400X sg group on FB now.. Do join the group for more discussion.

 

wah nice, too bad i got no facebook account hahahaha

Posted
You should look for the group CB400x SG

 

Still can't find it, man. Only found the Page link. Any chance of a direct link to the group page? Or is it the group is set to Secret/Closed?

Posted

may i know any garantors needed from bike shops whom u bought d bike from?

http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/603859_3802371097427_2134347937_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/s720x720/534363_3998392523188_157059301_n.jpg

Posted
may i know any garantors needed from bike shops whom u bought d bike from?

 

For me yes, 1 guarantor is needed... But I believe every shop has their own requirement

Posted
Hey there.. there is no CB in the 400x.. honda japan release it as 400x only... :)

 

probably they wan to distinguish between the CB roadbike and the 400X. btw, the 400X is not the first enduro class 2a for some might think. theres the good old transalp 400 still lingering around sg. the numbers are quite rare.

http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/603859_3802371097427_2134347937_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/s720x720/534363_3998392523188_157059301_n.jpg

Posted

Commuting along the road during afternoon they is no great heat beside the tank compare my previous CB400.

Posted
To be honest, I've never owned a first hand bike. I studied engine oil alot, so i just dun find any advantage. But of course with exceptions like Piston is new and its rough, then again, what's what?

 

I'm not here to debate :D I'm just here to find out how everybody views this. I might follow and might not, but at least I have everyone's knowledge of this and make a choice.

 

Why mineral or semi? Is it because it's rougher then fully syn?

 

Why not fully syn? If fully syn is better in fiction reduction, is it better to let the pistons go normally?

 

How about hard run-ins? Do they also use mineral oils? Just curious!

 

 

So we all know by now the prupose of the break in of a new engine is to "encourage" contact between metal parts in the engine to sort of "mold" them and sit them into place. Mostly the bores and the ring need to "wear in". Metal parts "flake" as they sit in, and the engine oil collects those particules. The reason why Mineral oil is recommended is to avoid glazing the metal parts, thus preventing a good wear of the metal surface. It is said that synthetic oil lubricates too much, and doesn't really allow the piston rings to sit with the cylinder wall as much as mineral oil would.

 

Fully or semi syn today is all about the temperature you ride in, and your riding style and how much you ask from the engine. 2 riders riding the same bike model might choose different oil for their engine. From what I gather from other more experienced bikers, you can't go wrong with either, just gotta pick the right grade.

 

 

Never did a hard break in, mostly because I believe it takes knowledge and practice. And at the price we pay our bikes in SG I'm not about to get experimental. So I went the manual way (soft break in) on my bike when got it new. I must say I have encountered many riders who don't break in their bikes properly. They get excited about it being new, and can't be bothered to stay under a certain rpm or speed for hundreds of kms. So they end up shortening the break in or not doing it properly. As a result, the second owner of the bike has to deal with a slew of issues that don't really make sense with the mileage of the bike.

 

I believe the best break in for a new engine is a hard break in. Never tried it at a shop, and I don't have the confidence nor the roads here in SG to do it myself. As for trying in a shop, I don't want want my bike to be their test subject. I always seem to fall in love with bikes new to the market or to the hard break in process, so unless the shop has enough practice on that particular engine, I wouldn't want to do it. Not to mention sometimes hard break ins need much more rounds than expected and I'm not sure the shop doesn't have a set number of rounds they do for certain class or type of bikes. So I tend to prefer the soft break-in which has given me excellent results.

 

But here's a great article about hard breaking method, and you'll notice they recommend mineral oil until the engine is ready : http://www.motorcycleextremist.com/Motorcycle-Engine-Break-in-the-Right-Way!.html

 

Don't know what oil they use at the shop that does hard run ins. I am guessing the first round has got to be mineral. But then, how soon they get semi syn or fully syn oil in there, I don't know.

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Posted
Have you tried riding at 100kph does the enjine stress?

 

Sorry bro. haven't run in yet. Just took the bike yesterday.

Posted
Have you tried riding at 100kph does the enjine stress?

 

Looking at the videos of the 500x, the engine is happily rev-ing up to 120kph ++ and sounds quite nice.

 

- This is part 2

 

This guy is a direct compare with his NC700X

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