care to explain..???

[sibingai]

i am no racer wannabe...but been to track just a few times....im riding a G1.but the think i rode wrongly or so...as in the front straight(turn 1)(most of the time) i will drop at least 2 gears..1 at a time..or sometimes consequitively...and the rear wheel will give this tak tak tak tak sound....izzit the traction or izzit the clutch or some thing else....but i like the feeling of powerslide thou on the rear wheels...but will it damage something or anything...??after the dropping to geaR will then i brake b4 the coners...pls advise(its my riding habits....) it also happen in othe turn.....

[PaLmEr]

blip your throttle. that sound is the too rapid deceleration of the rear wheel and the drivetrain being unable to keep up plus the weight of the bike is more towards the front during braking, wheel is close to breaking traction.

[sibingai]

hmmmm.....well this is maybe 1 thing i have to learn is throttle control...my throttle control is very lousy.........esp with gloves....

[ambasnakeman]

after the dropping to geaR will then i brake b4 the coners...pls advise(its my riding habits....) it also happen in othe turn.....

 

yo buddy,

 

i think the major mistake u r making is dropping gear before braking.....if u continue doing this, ur engine will die in very soon...

say u travelling in 3rd gear full throttle, 16k redline, at 200km/h.

so in 2nd gear, 16k redline, max speed could be only about 150km/h(eg).

when u drop to 2nd gear at 16k redline(or even 13 or 14) without breaking, the vehicle speed is gonna be translated to the engine. so, when u drop to 2nd at 200km/h...... the engine rpm is gonna shoot up to 18 or 19k rpm....thats beyond the redline.....i have trouble putting this in words, but i hope anyone reading this get the picture.

 

begineers start by close throttle, breaking and dropping 1 gear at a time.

advance riders or those with very good slipper clutch, will break and drop gearS just before the corner. often seen in motogp and wsb.

 

the slipper clutch absorbs most back torque. like the r6 production slipper clutch is not very good.....so if u just drop the gears, u can get the rear wheel spinning effect as well. so, we mod the slipper clutch a little to give more slip.

[sibingai]

yo buddy,

 

i think the major mistake u r making is dropping gear before braking.....if u continue doing this, ur engine will die in very soon...

say u travelling in 3rd gear full throttle, 16k redline, at 200km/h.

so in 2nd gear, 16k redline, max speed could be only about 150km/h(eg).

when u drop to 2nd gear at 16k redline(or even 13 or 14) without breaking, the vehicle speed is gonna be translated to the engine. so, when u drop to 2nd at 200km/h...... the engine rpm is gonna shoot up to 18 or 19k rpm....thats beyond the redline.....i have trouble putting this in words, but i hope anyone reading this get the picture.

 

begineers start by close throttle, breaking and dropping 1 gear at a time.

advance riders or those with very good slipper clutch, will break and drop gearS just before the corner. often seen in motogp and wsb.

 

the slipper clutch absorbs most back torque. like the r6 production slipper clutch is not very good.....so if u just drop the gears, u can get the rear wheel spinning effect as well. so, we mod the slipper clutch a little to give more slip.

 

hmm..of course i close throttle first lah....then drop....im not to the redline thou.this i can confirm...so u recommend me if this is my riding habits....i should get a slipper clutch..???

[myxilplix]

No need to think about slipper clutch. There are some basics you'll have to work on first. Brake more first before lowering the gears (keep applying the brakes and lower the gears at the same time, don't brake/release brake/lower gear), and lower them one at a time. Also try to be smoother with your clutch release on the downshifts.

 

If you're not to sure about blipping the throttle on downshifts, ask some of the more experienced riders when you're in the pits.

 

Don't rely on engine braking to slow your bike down for the turns, that's what the brakes are for.

[daigo34]

hmm..of course i close throttle first lah....then drop....im not to the redline thou.this i can confirm...so u recommend me if this is my riding habits....i should get a slipper clutch..???

 

no!no nid 4 a slipper clutch now but get a very good rider to teach u.

[NoLogicOne]

check your chain tension.

[sibingai]

check your chain tension.

 

chain tension is set all right.....

[sibingai]

no!no nid 4 a slipper clutch now but get a very good rider to teach u.

 

amba..????or any of u guys...???wait till my extra ferring come in lah...now scared arr.......

[NoLogicOne]

Say, do you apply front and rear brakes together?

 

+1 that you do not need slipper clutch...you can think of that if you start racing, and I'm sure not every racers have slipper clutch even.

[sibingai]

not really the rear brake...only the front thou,.....rear brake seldom use.......

[NoLogicOne]

Ok, for there were a few times my frens had these problems, it was because they braked like on the road, using both front and rear in the tracks. Another thing was that when my frens adjusted the rear chain slack, they never loosen the link that held the rear brake unit and the swingarm. This is common on some Gixxer. Once they loosen those bolts when readjusting/tightening the chain, the sounds were gone when they track the bike.

 

Just some info to share, hope it could shed some lights.

 

Oh, I yet to use rear brake in the track...relaying on the front only. I'm not there yet to use the rear on the tracks.

[BlackHonda]

yo buddy,

 

i think the major mistake u r making is dropping gear before braking.....if u continue doing this, ur engine will die in very soon...

say u travelling in 3rd gear full throttle, 16k redline, at 200km/h.

so in 2nd gear, 16k redline, max speed could be only about 150km/h(eg).

when u drop to 2nd gear at 16k redline(or even 13 or 14) without breaking, the vehicle speed is gonna be translated to the engine. so, when u drop to 2nd at 200km/h...... the engine rpm is gonna shoot up to 18 or 19k rpm....thats beyond the redline.....i have trouble putting this in words, but i hope anyone reading this get the picture.

 

begineers start by close throttle, breaking and dropping 1 gear at a time.

advance riders or those with very good slipper clutch, will break and drop gearS just before the corner. often seen in motogp and wsb.

 

the slipper clutch absorbs most back torque. like the r6 production slipper clutch is not very good.....so if u just drop the gears, u can get the rear wheel spinning effect as well. so, we mod the slipper clutch a little to give more slip.

 

thanks for sharing

[D.O.C]

i used to brake very early and slowly brake later and later, before down shifting. 5th rider once told me, dont jab at the brakes, apply brakes early and lightly to get the correct corner speed, as i get more comfortable slowly increase speed ie brake lesser. it helps in taking the corner rather than go very hard at the brakes at the last braking point.

 

as for the down gearing, i believe this is track riding so pls do not use the gears to slow the bike you should think of using the correct gears to get you out of the corner.

 

what you are currently riding is very dangerously cos as amba said you may break your engine or even worst you get too much stress on engine that you lock up you rear wheels,

[sibingai]

i used to brake very early and slowly brake later and later, before down shifting. 5th rider once told me, dont jab at the brakes, apply brakes early and lightly to get the correct corner speed, as i get more comfortable slowly increase speed ie brake lesser. it helps in taking the corner rather than go very hard at the brakes at the last braking point.

 

as for the down gearing, i believe this is track riding so pls do not use the gears to slow the bike you should think of using the correct gears to get you out of the corner.

 

what you are currently riding is very dangerously cos as amba said you may break your engine or even worst you get too much stress on engine that you lock up you rear wheels,

 

that i thought so..scared i might just break the engine man......

[Hartholomew]

i am no racer wannabe...but been to track just a few times....im riding a G1.but the think i rode wrongly or so...as in the front straight(turn 1)(most of the time) i will drop at least 2 gears..1 at a time..or sometimes consequitively...and the rear wheel will give this tak tak tak tak sound....izzit the traction or izzit the clutch or some thing else....but i like the feeling of powerslide thou on the rear wheels...but will it damage something or anything...??after the dropping to geaR will then i brake b4 the coners...pls advise(its my riding habits....) it also happen in othe turn.....

 

Hey Sinbingai,

 

Before I say anything, let me say that a Power Slide happens on the throttle, on the exit of the corner. Slides from the rear wheel on the entry of the corner are just slides, caused by the rear wheel rotating slower then the front, causing it to try and travel slower, stepping out to the side, OR, because so much weight is on the front of the bike that there is not enough weight on the rear to keep traction, OR a combination of both; giving the same result.

 

Forgive me if I give a slightly different opinion to everyone else.

 

As for your problem, it sounds eerily similar to what I have experienced many a time before.

 

I think that you may be snatching at the front brakes. When you snatch at the front brakes, you do not give the front forks enough time to "absorb" the braking load with compression damping. Suddenly loading the forks like this will result in one of the 2 results:

 

1. The forks bottom out, leaving no more travel to absorb the braking force, resulting in almost all the weight coming off the rear wheel. The rear wheel then has no more weight on it to grip the road with, making it very easy to break traction. Note that this can happen even if the rear wheel has not left the ground yet.

 

2. The damping/preload is too hard for your braking style, not allowing the forks to absorb the braking force, giving the same result as 1., but without bottoming the forks out.

 

In either case, the sound you are describing is the chain slapping about because it is neither pulling nor pulling but actually alternating between the two as it grips and slides. You can solve it by adding/subtracting preload OR compression damping, depending on whether your preload has already been adjusted to suit your weight. A simple way to see if you need to add or subtract damping is to attach a cable tie to one of the fork legs to indicate how much travel you are using.

 

The ideal case is to have slightly more than a cm of travel left on the forks.

 

Try these in this order:

 

First, make sure you are not snatching at the brakes, all the top riders are smooth on the brakes, easy on, easy off. This gives time for the forks to absorb the braking force and nail that front tyre into the ground, once this happens, THEN squeeze the lever for all it's worth. It also helps stabilize the bike upon turn in, erasing any sudden movement. Like "Fast" Freddie Spencer said: "Fast riders have slow hands."

 

If you have ever shot a firearm, you will know what I am talking about, snatching screws up your aim.

 

Second, if you are sure that you are not snatching then make sure your preload is properly adjusted.

 

Thirdly, if you are sure that it is not any of the above, then use the compression damping adjusters.

 

Fourthly, make sure that you are not being too abrupt with the clutch when you are dropping gears. If you are letting the clutch out too quickly, it may also induce a slide as the rear struggles to hold the road after being suddenly loaded with so much engine brake. You may try dropping a gear at a time, OR letting the clutch out more smoothly. A cure for this is to blip, but I tell you, it is NOT easy to maintain maximum brake pressure and blip at the same time. I have no slipper clutch and recently realised that I give up ALOT on the brakes cos I am concentrating on blipping so much. I have recently tried to change the way I ride to cure this, but have hit a wall, which is why I have an STM slipper clutch on order.

 

After saying all this, I must say that in time, as we get faster, we reach the limits of certain things, which is the proper time to upgrade your running gear. I feel that this is the best way to imrpove as a rider, when you are sure that this is the limit, not just adding things to your bike to make IT faster while YOU remain the same.

 

BUT, as you practice and get faster, you will realise that one way to cut lap times is to compress the braking zone into smaller portions, allowing you to stay on the throttle longer and reduce the speed in a shorter distance. When you try to do this, you will find that there is a limit to how fast you can perform these motions simultaneouly:

 

Braking with maximum pressure

Dropping gears

Blipping

Body positioning

Maintaining your line & turn in point

Monitoring Traction

Keeping an eye on others

Looking out for the camera

 

There is a human limit. Which is why practice is the most important thing in racing. When you make these seemingly complicated functions automatic, you can do them MUCH quicker, faster and still have room to think about what you had for lunch.

 

In the end, fast riding like what we do is a vicious circle. You solve a problem by learning and go faster only to encounter another. Sooner or later the same problem returns as you improve.

 

The trick is being able to ride WITH these problems, as close as you can get to that very, very thin red line without disaster. Thats what gives me the kick when I get back home.

 

Like Joe said when I complained about my bike: "Just get used to it."

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers,

 

Hartholomew Mamola

[sibingai]

Hey Sinbingai,

 

Before I say anything, let me say that a Power Slide happens on the throttle, on the exit of the corner. Slides from the rear wheel on the entry of the corner are just slides, caused by the rear wheel rotating slower then the front, causing it to try and travel slower, stepping out to the side, OR, because so much weight is on the front of the bike that there is not enough weight on the rear to keep traction, OR a combination of both; giving the same result.

 

Forgive me if I give a slightly different opinion to everyone else.

 

As for your problem, it sounds eerily similar to what I have experienced many a time before.

 

I think that you may be snatching at the front brakes. When you snatch at the front brakes, you do not give the front forks enough time to "absorb" the braking load with compression damping. Suddenly loading the forks like this will result in one of the 2 results:

 

1. The forks bottom out, leaving no more travel to absorb the braking force, resulting in almost all the weight coming off the rear wheel. The rear wheel then has no more weight on it to grip the road with, making it very easy to break traction. Note that this can happen even if the rear wheel has not left the ground yet.

 

2. The damping/preload is too hard for your braking style, not allowing the forks to absorb the braking force, giving the same result as 1., but without bottoming the forks out.

 

In either case, the sound you are describing is the chain slapping about because it is neither pulling nor pulling but actually alternating between the two as it grips and slides. You can solve it by adding/subtracting preload OR compression damping, depending on whether your preload has already been adjusted to suit your weight. A simple way to see if you need to add or subtract damping is to attach a cable tie to one of the fork legs to indicate how much travel you are using.

 

The ideal case is to have slightly more than a cm of travel left on the forks.

 

Try these in this order:

 

First, make sure you are not snatching at the brakes, all the top riders are smooth on the brakes, easy on, easy off. This gives time for the forks to absorb the braking force and nail that front tyre into the ground, once this happens, THEN squeeze the lever for all it's worth. It also helps stabilize the bike upon turn in, erasing any sudden movement. Like "Fast" Freddie Spencer said: "Fast riders have slow hands."

 

If you have ever shot a firearm, you will know what I am talking about, snatching screws up your aim.

 

Second, if you are sure that you are not snatching then make sure your preload is properly adjusted.

 

Thirdly, if you are sure that it is not any of the above, then use the compression damping adjusters.

 

Fourthly, make sure that you are not being too abrupt with the clutch when you are dropping gears. If you are letting the clutch out too quickly, it may also induce a slide as the rear struggles to hold the road after being suddenly loaded with so much engine brake. You may try dropping a gear at a time, OR letting the clutch out more smoothly. A cure for this is to blip, but I tell you, it is NOT easy to maintain maximum brake pressure and blip at the same time. I have no slipper clutch and recently realised that I give up ALOT on the brakes cos I am concentrating on blipping so much. I have recently tried to change the way I ride to cure this, but have hit a wall, which is why I have an STM slipper clutch on order.

 

After saying all this, I must say that in time, as we get faster, we reach the limits of certain things, which is the proper time to upgrade your running gear. I feel that this is the best way to imrpove as a rider, when you are sure that this is the limit, not just adding things to your bike to make IT faster while YOU remain the same.

 

BUT, as you practice and get faster, you will realise that one way to cut lap times is to compress the braking zone into smaller portions, allowing you to stay on the throttle longer and reduce the speed in a shorter distance. When you try to do this, you will find that there is a limit to how fast you can perform these motions simultaneouly:

 

Braking with maximum pressure

Dropping gears

Blipping

Body positioning

Maintaining your line & turn in point

Monitoring Traction

Keeping an eye on others

Looking out for the camera

 

There is a human limit. Which is why practice is the most important thing in racing. When you make these seemingly complicated functions automatic, you can do them MUCH quicker, faster and still have room to think about what you had for lunch.

 

In the end, fast riding like what we do is a vicious circle. You solve a problem by learning and go faster only to encounter another. Sooner or later the same problem returns as you improve.

 

The trick is being able to ride WITH these problems, as close as you can get to that very, very thin red line without disaster. Thats what gives me the kick when I get back home.

 

Like Joe said when I complained about my bike: "Just get used to it."

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers,

 

Hartholomew Mamola

 

have read thru...will again read thru...but i dun understand the 'snatching' part..........

[myxilplix]

Snatching = applying to brakes too hard too suddenly = danger!!!!

[sibingai]

Snatching = applying to brakes too hard too suddenly = danger!!!!

 

oooouuhh....lucky i did not practice that thou........

[sibingai]

Hey Sinbingai,

 

Before I say anything, let me say that a Power Slide happens on the throttle, on the exit of the corner. Slides from the rear wheel on the entry of the corner are just slides, caused by the rear wheel rotating slower then the front, causing it to try and travel slower, stepping out to the side, OR, because so much weight is on the front of the bike that there is not enough weight on the rear to keep traction, OR a combination of both; giving the same result.

 

hehe...now i know....

 

Forgive me if I give a slightly different opinion to everyone else.

 

As for your problem, it sounds eerily similar to what I have experienced many a time before.

 

I think that you may be snatching at the front brakes. When you snatch at the front brakes, you do not give the front forks enough time to "absorb" the braking load with compression damping. Suddenly loading the forks like this will result in one of the 2 results:

 

1. The forks bottom out, leaving no more travel to absorb the braking force, resulting in almost all the weight coming off the rear wheel. The rear wheel then has no more weight on it to grip the road with, making it very easy to break traction. Note that this can happen even if the rear wheel has not left the ground yet.

 

2. The damping/preload is too hard for your braking style, not allowing the forks to absorb the braking force, giving the same result as 1., but without bottoming the forks out.

 

In either case, the sound you are describing is the chain slapping about because it is neither pulling nor pulling but actually alternating between the two as it grips and slides. You can solve it by adding/subtracting preload OR compression damping, depending on whether your preload has already been adjusted to suit your weight. A simple way to see if you need to add or subtract damping is to attach a cable tie to one of the fork legs to indicate how much travel you are using.

 

The ideal case is to have slightly more than a cm of travel left on the forks.

 

currently it is about 1 plus cm

 

Try these in this order:

 

First, make sure you are not snatching at the brakes, all the top riders are smooth on the brakes, easy on, easy off. This gives time for the forks to absorb the braking force and nail that front tyre into the ground, once this happens, THEN squeeze the lever for all it's worth. It also helps stabilize the bike upon turn in, erasing any sudden movement. Like "Fast" Freddie Spencer said: "Fast riders have slow hands."

 

If you have ever shot a firearm, you will know what I am talking about, snatching screws up your aim.

 

ok now i know wat u mean....

 

Second, if you are sure that you are not snatching then make sure your preload is properly adjusted.

 

Thirdly, if you are sure that it is not any of the above, then use the compression damping adjusters.

 

Fourthly, make sure that you are not being too abrupt with the clutch when you are dropping gears. If you are letting the clutch out too quickly, it may also induce a slide as the rear struggles to hold the road after being suddenly loaded with so much engine brake. You may try dropping a gear at a time, OR letting the clutch out more smoothly. A cure for this is to blip, but I tell you, it is NOT easy to maintain maximum brake pressure and blip at the same time. I have no slipper clutch and recently realised that I give up ALOT on the brakes cos I am concentrating on blipping so much. I have recently tried to change the way I ride to cure this, but have hit a wall, which is why I have an STM slipper clutch on order.

 

this i have to practice...im poor in throttle control..btw...how much is the slipper..??.

 

After saying all this, I must say that in time, as we get faster, we reach the limits of certain things, which is the proper time to upgrade your running gear. I feel that this is the best way to imrpove as a rider, when you are sure that this is the limit, not just adding things to your bike to make IT faster while YOU remain the same.

 

nah...mines a stock....no PC3 even,.....cant even handle the G1 well

 

BUT, as you practice and get faster, you will realise that one way to cut lap times is to compress the braking zone into smaller portions, allowing you to stay on the throttle longer and reduce the speed in a shorter distance. When you try to do this, you will find that there is a limit to how fast you can perform these motions simultaneouly:

 

Braking with maximum pressure

Dropping gears

Blipping

Body positioning

Maintaining your line & turn in point

Monitoring Traction

Keeping an eye on others

Looking out for the camera

 

There is a human limit. Which is why practice is the most important thing in racing. When you make these seemingly complicated functions automatic, you can do them MUCH quicker, faster and still have room to think about what you had for lunch.

 

In the end, fast riding like what we do is a vicious circle. You solve a problem by learning and go faster only to encounter another. Sooner or later the same problem returns as you improve.

 

The trick is being able to ride WITH these problems, as close as you can get to that very, very thin red line without disaster. Thats what gives me the kick when I get back home.

 

like u say...i need more and more n more pactice....waiting fer my race fairing...then i will push...now a bit scared......

 

Like Joe said when I complained about my bike: "Just get used to it."

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers,

 

Hartholomew Mamola

[asjunior]

Hey Sinbingai,

 

Before I say anything, let me say that a Power Slide happens on the throttle, on the exit of the corner. Slides from the rear wheel on the entry of the corner are just slides, caused by the rear wheel rotating slower then the front, causing it to try and travel slower, stepping out to the side, OR, because so much weight is on the front of the bike that there is not enough weight on the rear to keep traction, OR a combination of both; giving the same result.

 

Forgive me if I give a slightly different opinion to everyone else.

 

As for your problem, it sounds eerily similar to what I have experienced many a time before.

 

I think that you may be snatching at the front brakes. When you snatch at the front brakes, you do not give the front forks enough time to "absorb" the braking load with compression damping. Suddenly loading the forks like this will result in one of the 2 results:

 

1. The forks bottom out, leaving no more travel to absorb the braking force, resulting in almost all the weight coming off the rear wheel. The rear wheel then has no more weight on it to grip the road with, making it very easy to break traction. Note that this can happen even if the rear wheel has not left the ground yet.

 

2. The damping/preload is too hard for your braking style, not allowing the forks to absorb the braking force, giving the same result as 1., but without bottoming the forks out.

 

In either case, the sound you are describing is the chain slapping about because it is neither pulling nor pulling but actually alternating between the two as it grips and slides. You can solve it by adding/subtracting preload OR compression damping, depending on whether your preload has already been adjusted to suit your weight. A simple way to see if you need to add or subtract damping is to attach a cable tie to one of the fork legs to indicate how much travel you are using.

 

The ideal case is to have slightly more than a cm of travel left on the forks.

 

Try these in this order:

 

First, make sure you are not snatching at the brakes, all the top riders are smooth on the brakes, easy on, easy off. This gives time for the forks to absorb the braking force and nail that front tyre into the ground, once this happens, THEN squeeze the lever for all it's worth. It also helps stabilize the bike upon turn in, erasing any sudden movement. Like "Fast" Freddie Spencer said: "Fast riders have slow hands."

 

If you have ever shot a firearm, you will know what I am talking about, snatching screws up your aim.

 

Second, if you are sure that you are not snatching then make sure your preload is properly adjusted.

 

Thirdly, if you are sure that it is not any of the above, then use the compression damping adjusters.

 

Fourthly, make sure that you are not being too abrupt with the clutch when you are dropping gears. If you are letting the clutch out too quickly, it may also induce a slide as the rear struggles to hold the road after being suddenly loaded with so much engine brake. You may try dropping a gear at a time, OR letting the clutch out more smoothly. A cure for this is to blip, but I tell you, it is NOT easy to maintain maximum brake pressure and blip at the same time. I have no slipper clutch and recently realised that I give up ALOT on the brakes cos I am concentrating on blipping so much. I have recently tried to change the way I ride to cure this, but have hit a wall, which is why I have an STM slipper clutch on order.

 

After saying all this, I must say that in time, as we get faster, we reach the limits of certain things, which is the proper time to upgrade your running gear. I feel that this is the best way to imrpove as a rider, when you are sure that this is the limit, not just adding things to your bike to make IT faster while YOU remain the same.

 

BUT, as you practice and get faster, you will realise that one way to cut lap times is to compress the braking zone into smaller portions, allowing you to stay on the throttle longer and reduce the speed in a shorter distance. When you try to do this, you will find that there is a limit to how fast you can perform these motions simultaneouly:

 

Braking with maximum pressure

Dropping gears

Blipping

Body positioning

Maintaining your line & turn in point

Monitoring Traction

Keeping an eye on others

Looking out for the camera

 

There is a human limit. Which is why practice is the most important thing in racing. When you make these seemingly complicated functions automatic, you can do them MUCH quicker, faster and still have room to think about what you had for lunch.

 

In the end, fast riding like what we do is a vicious circle. You solve a problem by learning and go faster only to encounter another. Sooner or later the same problem returns as you improve.

 

The trick is being able to ride WITH these problems, as close as you can get to that very, very thin red line without disaster. Thats what gives me the kick when I get back home.

 

Like Joe said when I complained about my bike: "Just get used to it."

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers,

 

Hartholomew Mamola

 

Yo Hart, long time no see. Nice feedback and worth trying, but 1 thing you mention 'LOOK OUT FOR CAMERA' you mean photographer take photo at T1 ah. hehehhehe. Think bout lunch, stomuch start to crumble, hungry........hehehehhe

[asjunior]

Hey Sinbingai,

 

Before I say anything, let me say that a Power Slide happens on the throttle, on the exit of the corner. Slides from the rear wheel on the entry of the corner are just slides, caused by the rear wheel rotating slower then the front, causing it to try and travel slower, stepping out to the side, OR, because so much weight is on the front of the bike that there is not enough weight on the rear to keep traction, OR a combination of both; giving the same result.

 

hehe...now i know....

 

Forgive me if I give a slightly different opinion to everyone else.

 

As for your problem, it sounds eerily similar to what I have experienced many a time before.

 

I think that you may be snatching at the front brakes. When you snatch at the front brakes, you do not give the front forks enough time to "absorb" the braking load with compression damping. Suddenly loading the forks like this will result in one of the 2 results:

 

1. The forks bottom out, leaving no more travel to absorb the braking force, resulting in almost all the weight coming off the rear wheel. The rear wheel then has no more weight on it to grip the road with, making it very easy to break traction. Note that this can happen even if the rear wheel has not left the ground yet.

 

2. The damping/preload is too hard for your braking style, not allowing the forks to absorb the braking force, giving the same result as 1., but without bottoming the forks out.

 

In either case, the sound you are describing is the chain slapping about because it is neither pulling nor pulling but actually alternating between the two as it grips and slides. You can solve it by adding/subtracting preload OR compression damping, depending on whether your preload has already been adjusted to suit your weight. A simple way to see if you need to add or subtract damping is to attach a cable tie to one of the fork legs to indicate how much travel you are using.

 

The ideal case is to have slightly more than a cm of travel left on the forks.

 

currently it is about 1 plus cm

 

Try these in this order:

 

First, make sure you are not snatching at the brakes, all the top riders are smooth on the brakes, easy on, easy off. This gives time for the forks to absorb the braking force and nail that front tyre into the ground, once this happens, THEN squeeze the lever for all it's worth. It also helps stabilize the bike upon turn in, erasing any sudden movement. Like "Fast" Freddie Spencer said: "Fast riders have slow hands."

 

If you have ever shot a firearm, you will know what I am talking about, snatching screws up your aim.

 

ok now i know wat u mean....

 

Second, if you are sure that you are not snatching then make sure your preload is properly adjusted.

 

Thirdly, if you are sure that it is not any of the above, then use the compression damping adjusters.

 

Fourthly, make sure that you are not being too abrupt with the clutch when you are dropping gears. If you are letting the clutch out too quickly, it may also induce a slide as the rear struggles to hold the road after being suddenly loaded with so much engine brake. You may try dropping a gear at a time, OR letting the clutch out more smoothly. A cure for this is to blip, but I tell you, it is NOT easy to maintain maximum brake pressure and blip at the same time. I have no slipper clutch and recently realised that I give up ALOT on the brakes cos I am concentrating on blipping so much. I have recently tried to change the way I ride to cure this, but have hit a wall, which is why I have an STM slipper clutch on order.

 

this i have to practice...im poor in throttle control..btw...how much is the slipper..??.

 

After saying all this, I must say that in time, as we get faster, we reach the limits of certain things, which is the proper time to upgrade your running gear. I feel that this is the best way to imrpove as a rider, when you are sure that this is the limit, not just adding things to your bike to make IT faster while YOU remain the same.

 

nah...mines a stock....no PC3 even,.....cant even handle the G1 well

 

BUT, as you practice and get faster, you will realise that one way to cut lap times is to compress the braking zone into smaller portions, allowing you to stay on the throttle longer and reduce the speed in a shorter distance. When you try to do this, you will find that there is a limit to how fast you can perform these motions simultaneouly:

 

Braking with maximum pressure

Dropping gears

Blipping

Body positioning

Maintaining your line & turn in point

Monitoring Traction

Keeping an eye on others

Looking out for the camera

 

There is a human limit. Which is why practice is the most important thing in racing. When you make these seemingly complicated functions automatic, you can do them MUCH quicker, faster and still have room to think about what you had for lunch.

 

In the end, fast riding like what we do is a vicious circle. You solve a problem by learning and go faster only to encounter another. Sooner or later the same problem returns as you improve.

 

The trick is being able to ride WITH these problems, as close as you can get to that very, very thin red line without disaster. Thats what gives me the kick when I get back home.

 

like u say...i need more and more n more pactice....waiting fer my race fairing...then i will push...now a bit scared......

 

Like Joe said when I complained about my bike: "Just get used to it."

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers,

 

Hartholomew Mamola

 

Yes bro, you need more and more practice..........................................

PHILIP ISLAND here sibingai come...................... :cheeky:

[D.O.C]

bro take it easy, asked advice from the few very seasoned riders and lastly what i find must useful advice, when you ride smoothly and relax thats when you get the best timing, thinking of too much on the track normally ends in diaster ie if you keep thinking how to brake to blip etc, you may forget the most impt thing to turn. and by that time you may be on the way to the gravel.

[sibingai]

 

Yes bro, you need more and more practice..........................................

PHILIP ISLAND here sibingai come...................... :cheeky:

aiyoh bro...me in spore liao....

bro take it easy, asked advice from the few very seasoned riders and lastly what i find must useful advice, when you ride smoothly and relax thats when you get the best timing, thinking of too much on the track normally ends in diaster ie if you keep thinking how to brake to blip etc, you may forget the most impt thing to turn. and by that time you may be on the way to the gravel.

 

 

of kos....will practice more....last thing is to hit any disastrous event when on track man......