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Posted
Originally posted by royston76@Nov 14 2005, 01:15 PM

Hi Brothers,

 

Thank you all for your advice dispensed above.

 

I just came out of LAB.

 

I went to change a Japan wet cell battery and Japan rectifier for $100, the voltmeter reading was still haywire then, still at 10.

 

Then I suspect that all alone, the problem is so simple, the voltmeter is spoiled liao and the reading cannot be trusted one.

 

But what done is done. So I tried to make myself feel better that my mileage is already 38000km, time to change the battery and rectifier also.

 

I also went to change a new Autogauge voltmeter from Regina. The reading is accurate, idling at 12, running at 13 - 14.

 

Total damage today to solve my problem, $134. :giddy:

 

One word of advice here for those brothers who have a voltmeter on their bike, Autogauge voltmeters are well known to spoil easily, due to wear and tear or water seepage from rain, etc.

 

So when you see the readings on your voltmeter go haywire, don't kan cheong spider like me, jump into conclusion that battery and rectifier is about to up the lorry. Learnt a slightly expensive lesson today. Hope to share with the brothers here. :cheeky:

 

Cheers!

 

:cheer:

good info... thanks for sharing....

 

shared mine too... mentioned this before but just like to share again.

 

had the problem also, and did not detect until cant start bike (have to push start). then bring to bike shop, first thing they do is to change the batt and charge. ride for a day already then cant start again... push back and ask the shop to do a thorough check. then found that both the charging coil and rectifier is spoiled. so wasted money changing batt that most likely is still okay. unhappy but LL...

 

moral is the same, do a thorough check instead of just looking at the problem on the surface.

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/7720/dsc00157a.jpg

 

All Must Work Hard!

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi, I am about to DIY install a voltmeter, but is not sure how to connect the wires

 

Voltmeter has 2 wires:

 

1)Positive (Red)

2)Earth(Black

 

 

The Super wire harness is in the headlight, my question is where should the meter's wires tap to the bike's stock wires, such that when the key is switch ON, the meter is activated.

 

 

I do not want to meter to be ON always.

 

 

Voltmeter Stock Wire Harness In Headlight

 

Positive RED wire to ----- which wire? Colour?

Earth BLACK wire to ------- which wire? colour?

 

Please advice, thanks!

Guest DR Guru
Posted

( Volt Meter ) should consist of 3 major wire instead of two unless old type analogue display but lets get to the pt,

 

 

Open up ur headlight cap look for a big socket two way catch which is transparent in colour

 

Positive wire tap to the orange/red.

(Black) wire tap to ur bike's metal parts wif a proper ring holder

there should be another wire from volt meter which needed to light ur the ( VM ) display rite? tap that wire to the big socket same colour with the positive and thats all.

Posted

question.... if you tap from the headlights, then arent you just taking the measurement of the headlights? if you have other loadings like some LEDs, neon lights etc, they will not be measured.

 

there for the total loading of the battery is not measured.

 

also, if your headlight blows, you will not get any readings anymore...

 

theortically, one should tap directly out from the battery but that will means that you voltmeter is always on unless you install a switch...

 

like i said, this is based on theory, so i guess in practical, there are different approach to the matter.

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/7720/dsc00157a.jpg

 

All Must Work Hard!

Posted

How abt tapping the power from the ignition switch, because ultimately you are looking if there is sufficient power to start your bike.

Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750

http://www.motorvoordelig.nl/images/laser/pics_hot_kaw_z750_04-.jpg

 

My Z750 DIY Page

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

 

04 Z750 Specification

http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

Guest DR Guru
Posted
Originally posted by S750WP@Jan 1 2006, 05:32 PM

How abt tapping the power from the ignition switch, because ultimately you are looking if there is sufficient power to start your bike.

question.... if you tap from the headlights, then arent you just taking the measurement of the headlights?

bro kennthy, 1st of pardon for saying this in the headlight box inside consist of main meaning ' positive ' wire directly link to the front need not have to attach the volt meter in the front and pull the wire back all the way.

 

honda already predict all this b4 they actually launch every single bike, so what abt relay for signal? is the power using main source from batt ? yes but where is the main positive wire in the inside the headlight box? look for it, if one were to use main source from batt while equipt it ard meter or rather upper front of the bike and pull all the wire to the rear where the batt place would apparently cause alot of prob.

 

Bro S750wp,

regarding this tapping to the ignition is using or drawing the power from main source from batt.

Posted
Originally posted by loh_dennis@Jan 1 2006, 07:20 PM

bro kennthy, 1st of pardon for saying this in the headlight box inside consist of main meaning ' positive ' wire directly link to the front need not have to attach the volt meter in the front and pull the wire back all the way.

 

honda already predict all this b4 they actually launch every single bike, so what abt relay for signal? is the power using main source from batt ? yes but where is the main positive wire in the inside the headlight box? look for it, if one were to use main source from batt while equipt it ard meter or rather upper front of the bike and pull all the wire to the rear where the batt place would apparently cause alot of prob.

 

Bro S750wp,

regarding this tapping to the ignition is using or drawing the power from main source from batt.

If the voltmeter is drawing power, it will be the same no matter you tap the power from the head light or the ignition.

 

I have used a mutimeter to measure the voltage at the ignition switch and at the battery , the voltage is lesser at the ignition side (12v) compare to the battery side (12.5v). So the most accurate way to measure is still at the battery side.

Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750

http://www.motorvoordelig.nl/images/laser/pics_hot_kaw_z750_04-.jpg

 

My Z750 DIY Page

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

 

04 Z750 Specification

http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

Guest DR Guru
Posted
Originally posted by S750WP@Jan 1 2006, 11:37 PM

If the voltmeter is drawing power, it will be the same no matter you tap the power from the head light or the ignition.

 

I have used a mutimeter to measure the voltage at the ignition switch and at the battery , the voltage is lesser at the ignition side (12v) compare to the battery side (12.5v). So the most accurate way to measure is still at the battery side.

bro S4

 

u have to see to appreciate it, multimeter is a reversing reading meter try tap the meter to ur rectifier,frame,socket holder for wire, why the reading are diff? is due to diff metal parts of the bike and not the current bypass slow, dont forget that the actual reading is the volt meter wif a relay together wif it which gonna equip not the meter, can the multi meter read up to max of 14.3v? if so meter screw up, volt can read up to 14.1 max meaning faulty parts spotted why? ans relay in the volt meter.

Posted
Originally posted by loh_dennis@Jan 2 2006, 02:41 AM

bro S4

 

u have to see to appreciate it, multimeter is a reversing reading meter try tap the meter to ur rectifier,frame,socket holder for wire, why the reading are diff? is due to diff metal parts of the bike and not the current bypass slow, dont forget that the actual reading is the volt meter wif a relay together wif it which gonna equip not the meter, can the multi meter read up to max of 14.3v? if so meter screw up, volt can read up to 14.1 max meaning faulty parts spotted why? ans relay in the volt meter.

I think you got confused by multimeter and voltmeter, the multimeter is calibrated to industrial standard, which electrician used for troubleshooting electronic components.

 

It can read DC/AC voltage, check diode, and resistance as well. Its definitely more accurate than the voltmeter.

 

Why the reading is different is because the battery is the source and along the path to the ignition switch, assume connected in series, there are different loads connected. Hence you see the difference voltage reading

 

Circuit in series

V=RI

Battery 12V

R1 = 100 ohms (assume head light)

R2= 200 ohms (assume ignition switch)

Current = 0.04A across R1 and R2

Voltage reading on R1 = 4V

Voltage reading on R2 = 8V

 

So ultimately the reading at the battery is still the most accurate, because you want to know if the battery is fully charge to 12.5V in order to power the other device on your bike.

Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750

http://www.motorvoordelig.nl/images/laser/pics_hot_kaw_z750_04-.jpg

 

My Z750 DIY Page

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

 

04 Z750 Specification

http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

Posted
Originally posted by S750WP@Jan 2 2006, 02:15 PM

I think you got confused by multimeter and voltmeter, the multimeter is calibrated to industrial standard, which electrician used for troubleshooting electronic components.

 

It can read DC/AC voltage, check diode, and resistance as well. Its definitely more accurate than the voltmeter.

 

Why the reading is different is because the battery is the source and along the path to the ignition switch, assume connected in series, there are different loads connected. Hence you see the difference voltage reading

 

Circuit in series

V=RI

Battery 12V

R1 = 100 ohms (assume head light)

R2= 200 ohms (assume ignition switch)

Current = 0.04A across R1 and R2

Voltage reading on R1 = 4V

Voltage reading on R2 = 8V

 

So ultimately the reading at the battery is still the most accurate, because you want to know if the battery is fully charge to 12.5V in order to power the other device on your bike.

Hey ppl, where to get this voltmeter for bikes?

Is it sold at those market hardware shop?

 

Thanks man!

Hardcore

Planet Motorcycle Supporter:thumb:

Posted

perhaps S750 can enlighten me..

 

isnt it true that voltage remains the same throughout the entire circuit?

my rides!

2003-2004 - phantom TA150 (FU6637S)

2004-2005 - nsr150 sp (FT6387T)

2005 - cb400 spec2 (FV1511Z)

2005-2006 - yamaha sparkx 110 (FZ9???Z)

2006-2007 - cb400 spec3 (FZ9???Z)

2007- ??? - GSXR600 K4 (FK????R)

---------------------------------------------------------------------

once a rider, always a rider.

Posted
Originally posted by bt@Jan 2 2006, 02:42 PM

perhaps S750 can enlighten me..

 

isnt it true that voltage remains the same throughout the entire circuit?

Depends on the wiring, if the load is connected in parallel then its 12V all across.

Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750

http://www.motorvoordelig.nl/images/laser/pics_hot_kaw_z750_04-.jpg

 

My Z750 DIY Page

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

 

04 Z750 Specification

http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

Posted
Originally posted by Constructicon@Jan 2 2006, 02:39 PM

Hey ppl, where to get this voltmeter for bikes?

Is it sold at those market hardware shop?

 

Thanks man!

no, not those type tt can find in mkt.....

 

its those type use on cars.... normally car workshop shld hav...

if u r looking for simple one LAB oso selling 2 types thk is $24/$33 if im nt wrong...

 

BTW can any kind bro tell mi where selling auto guage digital voltmeter.... wish to DIY

Current P200 setup: Sinnob Sproc[15, 39], NGK platinum plug with spark booster, V3 racing coil, cheetah CDI[dual mode], broquet B2, DIY oiler, hazard light, DIY gnding, PE28[pj-38, mj-120], open pod filter

Posted
Originally posted by cookie_monster@Jan 2 2006, 02:59 PM

no, not those type tt can find in mkt.....

 

its those type use on cars.... normally car workshop shld hav...

if u r looking for simple one LAB oso selling 2 types thk is $24/$33 if im nt wrong...

 

BTW can any kind bro tell mi where selling auto guage digital voltmeter.... wish to DIY

bro monster ... you can try it at ...

 

sin boon motor ,

no. 10 admiralty st #01-10/11 , north link

 

auto guage digital voltmeter $65

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h307/shelyn_suyee/Dear%20and%20Me/mybike.jpg
Posted

How abt connecting a mini digital multimeter permanent to the battery terminal with crocodile clips, and kept the multimeter under the seat. Think it cost only $18 from SLT, some more can use the mulimeter check for blown fuse and troubeshoot electrical problem too.

 

When wash bike then power up the multimeter to check the battery and rectifier health status.

Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750

http://www.motorvoordelig.nl/images/laser/pics_hot_kaw_z750_04-.jpg

 

My Z750 DIY Page

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

 

04 Z750 Specification

http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

Posted
Originally posted by S750WP@Jan 2 2006, 06:35 PM

How abt connecting a mini digital multimeter permanent to the battery terminal with crocodile clips, and kept the multimeter under the seat. Think it cost only $18 from SLT, some more can use the mulimeter check for blown fuse and troubeshoot electrical problem too.

 

When wash bike then power up the multimeter to check the battery and rectifier health status.

any pictures to show ? i think most of the guys in here would be interested to know.

 

SLT -> ??

my rides!

2003-2004 - phantom TA150 (FU6637S)

2004-2005 - nsr150 sp (FT6387T)

2005 - cb400 spec2 (FV1511Z)

2005-2006 - yamaha sparkx 110 (FZ9???Z)

2006-2007 - cb400 spec3 (FZ9???Z)

2007- ??? - GSXR600 K4 (FK????R)

---------------------------------------------------------------------

once a rider, always a rider.

Guest DR Guru
Posted
Originally posted by cookie_monster@Jan 2 2006, 02:59 PM

no, not those type tt can find in mkt.....

 

its those type use on cars.... normally car workshop shld hav...

if u r looking for simple one LAB oso selling 2 types thk is $24/$33 if im nt wrong...

 

BTW can any kind bro tell mi where selling auto guage digital voltmeter.... wish to DIY

bro mons maybe u would like to try out " autobac" at bukit batok lots of goodies if u havent been there but i believed u should knw that place, any form of stuff u name they have it.

Posted
Originally posted by loh_dennis@Jan 3 2006, 05:13 AM

bro mons maybe u would like to try out " autobac" at bukit batok lots of goodies if u havent been there but i believed u should knw that place, any form of stuff u name they have it.

bro e "autobac" u mention is at which part of bukit batok?

bukit batok veri big leh..... mayb u can provide more details.... :cheeky:

 

thkz....

Current P200 setup: Sinnob Sproc[15, 39], NGK platinum plug with spark booster, V3 racing coil, cheetah CDI[dual mode], broquet B2, DIY oiler, hazard light, DIY gnding, PE28[pj-38, mj-120], open pod filter

Posted

Sometime back I sought help to DIY intsall this voltmeter. Thanks to ALL who helped, esp Mr Dennis Loh.

 

I must say, after NO LESS than 2 Voltmeters that konked out on me when I rode in the rain, this IS ONE OF BEST(of course my own opinion, NO ofence please).

 

No fogging of lens, no water seepage and Voltmeter needle DOES NOT FLUCTUATE like the others, holds SOLIDLY STEADY.

 

Hope you guys can save some money and not get another meter that needs silicon sealing and shorts when washed or ridning in rain.

 

http://page.auctions.yahoo.com/sg/auction/...58?aucview=0x30

Posted

but at $96 or $125, dats way beyond my budget, or most ppl's.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hi,

I am looking around for voltmeter. Besides LAB, Regina and SUnshine Plaza, any other place selling voltmeters? And besides Autogauge and Swoosh, is there any other better brands?

When buying the voltmeter, do we have to buy an extra holder or does it come with it?

 

Thank you. :smile:

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