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Posted
Thanks AR2. So it seems that it's part of the QC process and not 'running-in' as understood as the bedding-in and smoothening of the cylinder walls and piston rings.

 

I've read that a newly-bored cylinder wall, under a microscope, has tiny ridges unseen by the naked eye. These ridges are smoothened through metal-to-metal contact, much like rubbing two blocks of ice together till they each have a smooth surface. This is also one reason why the engine oil and oil filter are to be changed during running-in, as there's an excessive amount of metal particles. What I believe to be a quick way for running-in is through honing. But this is most practical only during overhaul, when the cylinder head has already been removed. Of course, lots of other things can be done during overhaul - another topic in itself. But I don't think many workshops could be bothered with honing, unless they are preparing for race or blueprinting.

 

 

Yes. the part on

 

"I've read that a newly-bored cylinder wall, under a microscope, has tiny ridges unseen by the naked eye. These ridges are smoothened through metal-to-metal contact,"

 

In a run in, their primary purpose to to "scrub" the walls and seal ring in extreme harsh conditions so both sides to "match" each other in focus to have a good seal between your seal rings & piston walls. A very important result of a run-in as this will enable good sealing and sustain our high compression ratio 2 wheelers as compared to cars. It also reduces chances of "burn" EO.

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

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RACEshield URL - > http://www.raceshield.com

RACEshield FACEbook - > http://www.facebook.com/pages/RACEshield/119281238033

 

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Posted
so with that, its not advisable to spray the frame ourselves?

 

International brands do have ISOs to adhere to, hence i am just sounding off their quality as a worldwide product.

 

My above intention is to not to advise from avoiding DIY's. DIY jobs are subjective, and does not mean "not as good" either. Many times I have witnessed DIY'ed spray jobs and they are pretty great, but depending on each's use of rides.

 

Instead, the use of an off the shelf spray can, with high temp resistant properties will be a better bet on components/parts that will be subjected to high temps. This reduces the possibility of paint failure to a much higher extend then normal sprays.

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

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RACEshield URL - > http://www.raceshield.com

RACEshield FACEbook - > http://www.facebook.com/pages/RACEshield/119281238033

 

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Posted
The frame IS actually very hot in our up to date sport machines. The OEM paint on the frame undergoes vigoros test, to name a few :-

 

1. weather test

2. salt test

3. peel test

4. cross cut test

 

Which is why you notice aged OEM paintjobs actually still shine well if given a good TLC

 

 

As for local re-sprays, QC is not so stringent. They are able to satisfy MOST end consumer requirements but not all expectations. Look at this local re-spray job.

 

Only 4 session of NS highway and 1 session of B-road riding, chips are permanent. Never had this problem THAT easily on an OEM.

 

The paint might not peel off, but will crack instead. The last thing you would want is to SAND off the paint for a re-job done.

 

How much u can offer us for the Head Lamp and the signal light cover??? total of 3pcs?

"éšä»”,è¦åŽ»å—Ž"("Handsome, want to go")?!!! wahahaha....

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z51/DenverDino/CRW_4732-1-1.jpg

Posted
International brands do have ISOs to adhere to, hence i am just sounding off their quality as a worldwide product.

 

My above intention is to not to advise from avoiding DIY's. DIY jobs are subjective, and does not mean "not as good" either. Many times I have witnessed DIY'ed spray jobs and they are pretty great, but depending on each's use of rides.

 

Instead, the use of an off the shelf spray can, with high temp resistant properties will be a better bet on components/parts that will be subjected to high temps. This reduces the possibility of paint failure to a much higher extend then normal sprays.

 

if we r talking about parts like chain guard, hugger, belly pan etc that is not subject to temp changes, its easy to spray ourselves n to do a nice job. but with parts that subject to heat, its another story. we can do a nice paint work but in the end, after sometime, paint may peel off. hi-temp spray is not exception... cos off the shelf spray cans is for normal usage. not for resistance...

Honda Super 4 Ver S: Mar 02 - Sept 05

PGO Gmax 150: Sept 05 - Dec 05

Honda Super 4 Vtec 1: Nov 05 - Apr 07

Suzuki GSR 400: Apr 07 - Dec 09

Yamaha FZ1S: Nov 09 - May 13

Kawasaki GTR 1400: Jan 13 - ??? ??

Yamaha FZ16ST: May 14 - ??? ??

Posted
if we r talking about parts like chain guard, hugger, belly pan etc that is not subject to temp changes, its easy to spray ourselves n to do a nice job. but with parts that subject to heat, its another story. we can do a nice paint work but in the end, after sometime, paint may peel off. hi-temp spray is not exception... cos off the shelf spray cans is for normal usage. not for resistance...

 

Not really Skateboy. Most high temps sprays can sustain very high temps of 1200°F (650°C) commonly found in mufflers/boilers/heaters/heat exchangers/engines.

 

I have witnessed (& DIY'ed) engine coil covers badly damaged from crashes, sanded and resprayed with high temp sprays, and they look next to brand new with zero cracks after 3years. This sure beats a new coil cover in terms $$, but a little more time is required as with most DIY jobs. The prepped surface must be well sand for the paint to adhere to.

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

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Posted
Not really Skateboy. Most high temps sprays can sustain very high temps of 1200°F (650°C) commonly found in mufflers/boilers/heaters/heat exchangers/engines.

 

I have witnessed (& DIY'ed) engine coil covers badly damaged from crashes, sanded and resprayed with high temp sprays, and they look next to brand new with zero cracks after 3years. This sure beats a new coil cover in terms $$, but a little more time is required as with most DIY jobs. The prepped surface must be well sand for the paint to adhere to.

icic... will discuss with my partner... regarding this. thanx for the info.

Honda Super 4 Ver S: Mar 02 - Sept 05

PGO Gmax 150: Sept 05 - Dec 05

Honda Super 4 Vtec 1: Nov 05 - Apr 07

Suzuki GSR 400: Apr 07 - Dec 09

Yamaha FZ1S: Nov 09 - May 13

Kawasaki GTR 1400: Jan 13 - ??? ??

Yamaha FZ16ST: May 14 - ??? ??

Posted
How much u can offer us for the Head Lamp and the signal light cover??? total of 3pcs?

 

DenverDino,

 

We do offer 12% off RRP for all packaged kits upon 10 confirmed kits.

 

As the kits are US designed, signal light covers are not included. Still as the signal lamps are of simple shapes, film material not CAD designed are also available for DIY's

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

http://www.raceshield.com/images/raceshieldmotorbikekits.jpg

 

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RACEshield FACEbook - > http://www.facebook.com/pages/RACEshield/119281238033

 

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Posted
that one ah, wait till i come back from sailing then decide wanna go anot....

so when u intend to spray the frame? i c the stickers, buay tahan... looks damn terok. the side cover for the fuel tank oso... wanna spray matt black.

wow... u wan e same as mine? Make it a Sat Morning where we can do whole day.

Wah ,u really want to spray the frame ,wait miss q , will become tai ko :cry:

wont de, carefully lor

U clever lor...:sian: this time nite shift i also very hard to wash bike cause got lot of nite work to do. if you want still can but not too many.

2 of us can? =p

 

icic... will discuss with my partner... regarding this. thanx for the info.

 

when when? =X

All you need to know about GSR 400/600, be it buying, maintaining or modding, please refer to GSR 600 Thread FAQ page 281 and 282

Posted
wow... u wan e same as mine? Make it a Sat Morning where we can do whole day.

 

when when? =X

something like urs like that... sat morning? then do whole day can siao one leh...

 

u so eagar to spray the frame meh?? but come to think of it, its easier to spray one shot for the frame n side tank cover cos to spray the frame, the tank have to lift up. n i dunno how many cans of paint we need... the tail light n exhaust cover, when u wanna do??

Honda Super 4 Ver S: Mar 02 - Sept 05

PGO Gmax 150: Sept 05 - Dec 05

Honda Super 4 Vtec 1: Nov 05 - Apr 07

Suzuki GSR 400: Apr 07 - Dec 09

Yamaha FZ1S: Nov 09 - May 13

Kawasaki GTR 1400: Jan 13 - ??? ??

Yamaha FZ16ST: May 14 - ??? ??

Posted
something like urs like that... sat morning? then do whole day can siao one leh...

 

u so eagar to spray the frame meh?? but come to think of it, its easier to spray one shot for the frame n side tank cover cos to spray the frame, the tank have to lift up. n i dunno how many cans of paint we need... the tail light n exhaust cover, when u wanna do??

 

Thats y i say use 1 whole day to do.. cause we can dismantle all in 1 day =))

 

don need to open n close so many times :thumb:

All you need to know about GSR 400/600, be it buying, maintaining or modding, please refer to GSR 600 Thread FAQ page 281 and 282

Posted

i top up coolant, open close almost everyday to check if the coolant is at max from the radiator cover.

 

used to it already. but if suay suay bad weather, then jia lat liao leh...

 

sat morning dunno can anot cos fri nite most probably go watch nite movie... :sweat:

Honda Super 4 Ver S: Mar 02 - Sept 05

PGO Gmax 150: Sept 05 - Dec 05

Honda Super 4 Vtec 1: Nov 05 - Apr 07

Suzuki GSR 400: Apr 07 - Dec 09

Yamaha FZ1S: Nov 09 - May 13

Kawasaki GTR 1400: Jan 13 - ??? ??

Yamaha FZ16ST: May 14 - ??? ??

Posted
i top up coolant, open close almost everyday to check if the coolant is at max from the radiator cover.

 

used to it already. but if suay suay bad weather, then jia lat liao leh...

 

sat morning dunno can anot cos fri nite most probably go watch nite movie... :sweat:

 

not this sat la.. we need to plan 1 nice nice n see who wan join us... they can wash bike if not going to spray lor :thumb:

All you need to know about GSR 400/600, be it buying, maintaining or modding, please refer to GSR 600 Thread FAQ page 281 and 282

Posted

icic... if i free, i may just do up wat u had done so far. the side cover for fuel tank n the headlamp 2 piece of plastic...

 

when u going to re-wrap ur seat?

Honda Super 4 Ver S: Mar 02 - Sept 05

PGO Gmax 150: Sept 05 - Dec 05

Honda Super 4 Vtec 1: Nov 05 - Apr 07

Suzuki GSR 400: Apr 07 - Dec 09

Yamaha FZ1S: Nov 09 - May 13

Kawasaki GTR 1400: Jan 13 - ??? ??

Yamaha FZ16ST: May 14 - ??? ??

Posted
icic... if i free, i may just do up wat u had done so far. the side cover for fuel tank n the headlamp 2 piece of plastic...

 

when u going to re-wrap ur seat?

 

Payday? haha... OC haven approve yet :cheeky:

All you need to know about GSR 400/600, be it buying, maintaining or modding, please refer to GSR 600 Thread FAQ page 281 and 282

Posted
pole light is the lights above the headlights? if it is then t10 leds will fit

so how to remove the pole light? from the front, thts mean dis-assemble the clear plastic cover of the headlight or the pole light can be access from behind the headlight?

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/4762/dsc1012of3.jpg http://img250.imageshack.us/img250/67/dsc00196ave3.jpg

 

"Damn, who die and make him the leader?!?!?"

Posted

have to access from the back...

 

1: remove the 2 side covers beside the headlight

2: remove the 4 screws holding the headlights

3: at the back of where the pole light is there are 2 rubber holders. twist the rubber and pull it out.

4: change the bulb and replace the rubber by slotting it back and twisting it to lock it in place

Posted
have to access from the back...

 

1: remove the 2 side covers beside the headlight

2: remove the 4 screws holding the headlights

3: at the back of where the pole light is there are 2 rubber holders. twist the rubber and pull it out.

4: change the bulb and replace the rubber by slotting it back and twisting it to lock it in place

Bro, sounds good for D.i.y... where can buy the t10?

Posted
have to access from the back...

 

1: remove the 2 side covers beside the headlight

2: remove the 4 screws holding the headlights

3: at the back of where the pole light is there are 2 rubber holders. twist the rubber and pull it out.

4: change the bulb and replace the rubber by slotting it back and twisting it to lock it in place

 

use a long-nose pliers to turn the rubber socket unless you have the fingers of a lady... hee...

Posted
any of u guys change pole light to led ? can T10 led fit?

thanks in advancd

 

can fit. no problem.

 

changed mine to those high powered ones from M400 the 2nd day i got my bike (which was 6 months ago)

rien d'autre que le max.

Posted
i guess i have the fingers of a lady then :cheeky:

 

me too. haha

rien d'autre que le max.

Posted
not this sat la.. we need to plan 1 nice nice n see who wan join us... they can wash bike if not going to spray lor :thumb:

 

icic... if i free, i may just do up wat u had done so far. the side cover for fuel tank n the headlamp 2 piece of plastic...

 

when u going to re-wrap ur seat?

 

 

But those off the shelf spray can paint seems like it will chip off easily just by a slight knock, remember last time when use it it spray bicycle frame , after a period of time, the frame tai ko liao after chiping here and there. How to get the paint to bite on the surface ? :thumb:

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