[Discussion] CB400 SUPER FOUR HYPER VTEC Revo

[Ah Pek]

Hey guys, just yesterday when i started my bike i heard a 'hissing' sound that doesnt go away even after i continue riding. any bros have such experiences before and can share what might be the cause? the hissing sound is exactly the same as the sound when your meter sweeps before you electronically start the bike. the high pitch 'eeeeeeeee'. i suspect it might be something to do with electronics because when i on the hazard light or signal, the 'eeeeee' sound changes pitch. Pls advise..

 

Thanks bros.

 

I think ur press to start button is stuck.spray some WD40 and play with the pess switch to rectified.otherwise..it keep shorting and battery will go flat out soon..or spoiled due to excessive heat.

[ramsnake]

hey bro, u know where to get chain cleaner? and how much?

 

Most bike shops that sell accessories like motorworld, unique, HLC, HKL etc sell them. I used to use them until they burned a hole in my wallet and switched to kerosene. You can also use diesel if you can buy it easily.

 

Chain cleaners in a spray can costs on average $10. Good for about 6-10 cleaning jobs. One 1L bottle of kerosene can use for 20-25 times. You do the maths!

[killjou]

After degreasing my chain with muc-off, cleaning and oiling it, seems like it got a lot worse. Chain is super noisy now and the bike heats up like its lack of petrol even thou I've plenty, lack of power and vibrates a lot, causing my hands to go numb even at 100kmh.

 

A 520 change is imminent. Next week it shall be.

[f-50evolution]

After degreasing my chain with muc-off, cleaning and oiling it, seems like it got a lot worse. Chain is super noisy now and the bike heats up like its lack of petrol even thou I've plenty, lack of power and vibrates a lot, causing my hands to go numb even at 100kmh.

 

A 520 change is imminent. Next week it shall be.

 

Mine is fine after using muc off.

[killjou]

Sadly mine doesn't work for me. Haiz.

Good reason to try out 520 thou haha!

[kelena]

about chains and stuff..

a quick question for those on Scottoilers:

 

Where do you guys route the dispenser, the little thin black hose where the chain lube comes out? I read that it's supposed to be touching the sprocket and about 2mm away from the chain. I tried to get as close as possible, but I think the distance between the "nearest" mounting point (below the end of the swing arm) to the sprocket is too far; the dispenser flips and flops whenever the bike is in motion. Also, the dispenser gets into one of the holes on the sprocket.

I tried increasing the rigidity without too much fixation (at least i can still bend the dispenser) with black tapes..but it still does not seem to work. Just spent about 3 hours meddling with that.

 

Had to do all these as the previous mount came out due to being stuck on by dbl-sided tape..and it lost the adhesive properties due to rain/road grime/dirt and shampoo..

would like to seek help on this..

[azman ibrahim]

thanks bro ramsnake! appreciate it very much!

Most bike shops that sell accessories like motorworld, unique, HLC, HKL etc sell them. I used to use them until they burned a hole in my wallet and switched to kerosene. You can also use diesel if you can buy it easily.

 

Chain cleaners in a spray can costs on average $10. Good for about 6-10 cleaning jobs. One 1L bottle of kerosene can use for 20-25 times. You do the maths!

[desmondband]

My hand will go numb after cruising on 100km/h for 10 mins.. Is that norm??

 

And also, what is recommended for chain lub??

[f-50evolution]

My hand will go numb after cruising on 100km/h for 10 mins.. Is that norm??

 

And also, what is recommended for chain lub??

Definitely not. Try put on the motovation barend. Its heavy so its not so shaky.

Maybe u can try check if the handlebar is tightened

[W17]

My hand will go numb after cruising on 100km/h for 10 mins.. Is that norm??

 

And also, what is recommended for chain lub??

 

Mine all stock with wind shield & 45L rear box. Small vibrate start after 140km/h.

 

Which Might be;

1) Tyre pressure too high: New tyre can up to 275kpa, pressure should getting lower to min 200kpa depends to thread condition.

2) Front fork suspension: Too hard adjusted or leaked.

3) IU mounting with rear mirror fitting: Use solid bracket.

4) Handler grip hard: Replace soft type.

5) Rear mirror: Original stock mirror heavy & use as balancer. Without it, bar end balancer needed.

[tzmdegil]

Anyone install scottoiler? Is it gd? Is there any problem so far?

[revoltElastico]

I think ur press to start button is stuck.spray some WD40 and play with the pess switch to rectified.otherwise..it keep shorting and battery will go flat out soon..or spoiled due to excessive heat.

 

i see. but after i switch on the bike the sound stops till engine is started. and i tried playing with the switch already. what i discovered is that the sound is actually coming from below the tank. any bros can confirm the ECU is there? thanks.. new revo rider here, so dont know much abt the bike yet. btw after i switch on the hazard light for a while the sound stops. until i throttle again and it buzzes again! sigh.

[ramsnake]

thanks bro ramsnake! appreciate it very much!

 

You're welcome!

 

about chains and stuff..

a quick question for those on Scottoilers:

 

Where do you guys route the dispenser, the little thin black hose where the chain lube comes out? I read that it's supposed to be touching the sprocket and about 2mm away from the chain. I tried to get as close as possible, but I think the distance between the "nearest" mounting point (below the end of the swing arm) to the sprocket is too far; the dispenser flips and flops whenever the bike is in motion. Also, the dispenser gets into one of the holes on the sprocket.

I tried increasing the rigidity without too much fixation (at least i can still bend the dispenser) with black tapes..but it still does not seem to work. Just spent about 3 hours meddling with that.

 

Had to do all these as the previous mount came out due to being stuck on by dbl-sided tape..and it lost the adhesive properties due to rain/road grime/dirt and shampoo..

would like to seek help on this..

 

If you are using the single tip, dispenser tube should touch the rear sprocket. See the main pic on scottoiler's Tech Support page. The correct position is between 4 o'clock and 6 o'clock. If the tip doesn't touch the sprocket, the oil would be wasted as it wold be flung off straight away.

 

If your unit was fitted correctly, the clear hose should be long enough so that the black tip can reach the sprocket. Extend hose to sufficient length. Once you've got the length sorted, use cable ties to securely fix the hose position.

 

I'm using AFAM rear sprockets which also has holes. There is enough surface area for the tip to contact without touching the chain itself or the holes in the sprocket.

 

If you still can't get it right, just go to motoworld and get them to do it for you. They are the main distributor and may be able to do it for free. Otherwise, expect a only small charge as it's a simple job.

 

Anyone install scottoiler? Is it gd? Is there any problem so far?

 

Yes. No problems, lots of benefits. One of the best investment on my bike!

 

My hand will go numb after cruising on 100km/h for 10 mins.. Is that norm??

 

And also, what is recommended for chain lub??

 

100km/h for 10 minutes shouldn't get your hands numb at all!

You don't mention any vibration at the foot pegs. If that's the case, we can rule out bad chain and sprockets causing excessive vibrations.

 

So, it sounds like you are gripping the handle bar too much and generally being too tensed. Scroll back a few pages and look for another member's post on this, to which I described the "flapping chicken wings" test. This will stop your arms being locked in position. Also pay attention to your hand grip - make sure it's relaxed.

 

I've ride my 4y/o bike with stock and aftermarket bar-ends. I have a MRA windshield mounted onto the handle bar. Not much vibration with stock bar ends to begin with. I installed aftermarket bar ends more for the slide protection.

 

Mine all stock with wind shield & 45L rear box. Small vibrate start after 140km/h.

 

Which Might be;

1) Tyre pressure too high: New tyre can up to 275kpa, pressure should getting lower to min 200kpa depends to thread condition.

2) Front fork suspension: Too hard adjusted or leaked.

3) IU mounting with rear mirror fitting: Use solid bracket.

4) Handler grip hard: Replace soft type.

5) Rear mirror: Original stock mirror heavy & use as balancer. Without it, bar end balancer needed.

 

1) & 2)

I strongly discourage changing your tyre pressure and suspension settings to troubleshoot handlebar vibrations. For bike handling and safety reasons, these settings must be made to suit biker weight and riding conditions only.

 

 

i see. but after i switch on the bike the sound stops till engine is started. and i tried playing with the switch already. what i discovered is that the sound is actually coming from below the tank. any bros can confirm the ECU is there? thanks.. new revo rider here, so dont know much abt the bike yet. btw after i switch on the hazard light for a while the sound stops. until i throttle again and it buzzes again! sigh.

Best to get your bike tested by a good mech, mate.

[Arlwynn]

Anyone install scottoiler? Is it gd? Is there any problem so far?

 

Very good investment for me too... saves my time and will not dirty our rim makes our bike cleaning easier also ...

Worth it bro ...

[kelena]

thanks ramsnake for your valuable insight. my setup is similar to the link you included in your reply. When the bike is stationary, the tip of the dispenser is close to the chain and quite far from the holes in the sprocket. but after riding, the dispenser found its way into one of the holes.

I can only attribute it to the flexibility of the dispenser.

I was wondering if like you mentioned, i extend the clear hose and hence, reducing the length of the dispenser so that it will not flex so much. Mind me asking what's the length of your dispenser,from the end of the clear hose?

 

another question (directed to owners with windshields): As my jacket flutters at speeds up to 100km/h, it makes it a little hard to control the bike, and I feel very uncomfortable. It is the jacket as I do not seem to have a problem without one. I have spent quite good dough on my jacket and I would like to wear it whenever I'm on the road, therefore, the only feasible way would be to install a windshield. However, as the windshield is not exactly cheap, could I get some inputs on the pros and cons of having a windshield and if that little piece of plastic actually works in reducing the wind blast?

 

thanks all!!

[revoltElastico]

thanks ramsnake. will get it checked out. hopefully not too big an issue here...

[tzmdegil]

Very good investment for me too... saves my time and will not dirty our rim makes our bike cleaning easier also ...

Worth it bro ...

Thnx bro.... Will get it for sure. Since all of u highly recomended it

[StrongBow]

is it true use scottoiler no need to wash chain? i rmb reading it somewhere. they say can keep the chain clean n well lubed

[ramsnake]

thanks ramsnake for your valuable insight. my setup is similar to the link you included in your reply. When the bike is stationary, the tip of the dispenser is close to the chain and quite far from the holes in the sprocket. but after riding, the dispenser found its way into one of the holes.

I can only attribute it to the flexibility of the dispenser.

I was wondering if like you mentioned, i extend the clear hose and hence, reducing the length of the dispenser so that it will not flex so much. Mind me asking what's the length of your dispenser,from the end of the clear hose?

 

I also had the same problem as you a few weeks after it was installed. It's because the hose is still new and as you noted, still very flexible. All that was needed is adjusting the hose so the tip touches the sprocket again. Then secure with another cable tie. After cable tie is in place make sure the tip is where you want it before tightening cable tie and excess cut-off.

 

Here are the pics:

 

Pic 1

In this pic, you'll see where the tip touches the sprocket. Note the sprocket surface where the tip rubs off the anodised gold from the surface.

 

Pic 2

In this pic, you can see the clear hose section then the black rubber connector and finally the black dispenser tube which touches the sprocket.

The length from the last cable tie to tip is about 5 inches. The rubber connector is standard length that came in the box. Finally, the black dispenser tube is about 1.25in or 4+cm long from the end of the connector tube (with a few cm within the connector itself of course).

 

is it true use scottoiler no need to wash chain? i rmb reading it somewhere. they say can keep the chain clean n well lubed

 

Yes. In the pics above, I didn't wash my chain during bike wash. This is about one month since I last cleaned the chain.

 

The proprietary oil from Scottoiler is non-tacky, so it doesn't attract dust. Chain wear is due to 2 main reasons:

- dry O/X/Z-rings which result in lubricant within the chain rollers leaking out. Effect = seized links and non-rolling rollers.

- dust and other road debris accumulating on the chain. These stick to the oil/lubricant people use on the chain. The dust and debris grind between the rollers and sprocket teeth and soon your sprocket teeth would worn out.

 

I used to manually lubricate with engine oil (yes, making sure every O-ring gets a drop of oil!) and other lubricants in a can. All of them fling too much resulting dirty rims and rear panels. They also collect a lot of road debris. When you see a dirty chain with all those black stuff? Guess what the black stuff is.

 

Say, if today I didn't have the budget to fix the Scottoiler, here is what I'd do. I'll buy the oil from motoworld, put the oil in a bottle (I used to use contact lens solution bottle when oiling chain with engine oil) and lubricate one O-ring with one drop at a time. Takes about 15-20 minutes and you only need to do this every 300km or so. You'll have a clean and well lubricated chain.

[ramsnake]

another question (directed to owners with windshields): As my jacket flutters at speeds up to 100km/h, it makes it a little hard to control the bike, and I feel very uncomfortable. It is the jacket as I do not seem to have a problem without one. I have spent quite good dough on my jacket and I would like to wear it whenever I'm on the road, therefore, the only feasible way would be to install a windshield. However, as the windshield is not exactly cheap, could I get some inputs on the pros and cons of having a windshield and if that little piece of plastic actually works in reducing the wind blast?

 

thanks all!!

 

From your description, it sounds like wind gets trapped within your jacket when riding so you're like a huge balloon on a bike! BTW, I'm not making fun or anything, just trying to get the situation right...

 

I ride with an mesh armoured jacket on most rides on a daily basis. The thing with jackets is that it must be fitting. My guess is that you are using a windbreaker, track top or other casual jacket not meant for riding.

 

Installing a windshield won't solve your problem because a loose jacket will still flap. In fact, depending on the windshield, it may even make it worse. This is because of wind buffeting caused by the windshield itself. I say this because I have direct experience with one windshield. It did it's job of taking some of the wind pressure off the chest at higher speeds. However, it's design also created wind buffeting resulting in higher wind noise in my helmet.

 

If I were you, I'd sell the jacket and get a proper riding jacket. Yes, you will lose a bit of money but it's cheaper than buying a windshield. That casual jacket also won't save your skin in case of accidents. You can get a good one at motoworld for as low as $120 on sale.

[xiaoyuer1988]

From your description, it sounds like wind gets trapped within your jacket when riding so you're like a huge balloon on a bike! BTW, I'm not making fun or anything, just trying to get the situation right...

 

I ride with an mesh armoured jacket on most rides on a daily basis. The thing with jackets is that it must be fitting. My guess is that you are using a windbreaker, track top or other casual jacket not meant for riding.

 

Installing a windshield won't solve your problem because a loose jacket will still flap. In fact, depending on the windshield, it may even make it worse. This is because of wind buffeting caused by the windshield itself. I say this because I have direct experience with one windshield. It did it's job of taking some of the wind pressure off the chest at higher speeds. However, it's design also created wind buffeting resulting in higher wind noise in my helmet.

 

If I were you, I'd sell the jacket and get a proper riding jacket. Yes, you will lose a bit of money but it's cheaper than buying a windshield. That casual jacket also won't save your skin in case of accidents. You can get a good one at motoworld for as low as $120 on sale.

 

bro whats the jacket brand?

[kelena]

From your description, it sounds like wind gets trapped within your jacket when riding so you're like a huge balloon on a bike! BTW, I'm not making fun or anything, just trying to get the situation right...

 

I ride with an mesh armoured jacket on most rides on a daily basis. The thing with jackets is that it must be fitting. My guess is that you are using a windbreaker, track top or other casual jacket not meant for riding.

 

Installing a windshield won't solve your problem because a loose jacket will still flap. In fact, depending on the windshield, it may even make it worse. This is because of wind buffeting caused by the windshield itself. I say this because I have direct experience with one windshield. It did it's job of taking some of the wind pressure off the chest at higher speeds. However, it's design also created wind buffeting resulting in higher wind noise in my helmet.

 

If I were you, I'd sell the jacket and get a proper riding jacket. Yes, you will lose a bit of money but it's cheaper than buying a windshield. That casual jacket also won't save your skin in case of accidents. You can get a good one at motoworld for as low as $120 on sale.

 

thanks Ramsnake. I have a Dainese Portland Riding jacket.

 

There are 2 meshes located at the shoulder, and over the chest area (as it's a summer jacket). I installed a back protector which I figured to reduce airflow at the exit air gets trapped somewhere.

As for ballooning, it actually does not happen. But the flapping is at the areas of the mesh and the shoulder armor.

Hence, I'm thinking if a windshield can help to direct the air away from my shouders, as there's the place where extensive flapping is happening.

I also checked the website.. a few riders made this comment too. I thought nothing of it, as my previous bike is a sportsbike and the flapping does not occur due to the fairing etc..

 

bro whats the jacket brand?

 

It's a Dainese Portland..

[f-50evolution]

thanks Ramsnake. I have a Dainese Portland Riding jacket.

 

There are 2 meshes located at the shoulder, and over the chest area (as it's a summer jacket). I installed a back protector which I figured to reduce airflow at the exit air gets trapped somewhere.

As for ballooning, it actually does not happen. But the flapping is at the areas of the mesh and the shoulder armor.

Hence, I'm thinking if a windshield can help to direct the air away from my shouders, as there's the place where extensive flapping is happening.

I also checked the website.. a few riders made this comment too. I thought nothing of it, as my previous bike is a sportsbike and the flapping does not occur due to the fairing etc..

 

 

 

It's a Dainese Portland..

wow you are rich!

if im you i will make do with the jacket and get the windshield. i believe motoworld has some nice 1 too

[ramsnake]

bro whats the jacket brand?

 

Motoworld's Komine jackets are very reasonably priced. I bought mine in Oct 2010 ($160 with soft back padding. Added a hard back protector for $60). I've been using it on a daily basis. and it's still going strong.

[ramsnake]

thanks Ramsnake. I have a Dainese Portland Riding jacket.

 

There are 2 meshes located at the shoulder, and over the chest area (as it's a summer jacket). I installed a back protector which I figured to reduce airflow at the exit air gets trapped somewhere.

As for ballooning, it actually does not happen. But the flapping is at the areas of the mesh and the shoulder armor.

Hence, I'm thinking if a windshield can help to direct the air away from my shouders, as there's the place where extensive flapping is happening.

I also checked the website.. a few riders made this comment too. I thought nothing of it, as my previous bike is a sportsbike and the flapping does not occur due to the fairing etc..

 

It's a Dainese Portland..

 

Ahh... thanks for letting us know your biking experience. I'll have to assume that the jacket fits and isn't too large for you. Aren't there any velcro/buttons on the jacket to take up excess material where it's too loose? FYI, I ride with my jacket at all speeds the bike is capable of, with and without windshield. No flapping at all and certainly no wind buffeting issues that interfere with riding and/or controlling the bike.

 

Looks like there's a design flaw with this Dainese since others are also complaining about the same issue. Pssssttt... just sell it and get a Komine