[Discussion] CB400 SUPER FOUR HYPER VTEC Revo

[kelena]

yea bro. passed and got my revo alrdy. haha

 

Question for you guys :

I feel like changing to aftermarket KOSO mirrors. Any reviews? Any vibrations during higher speeds or rpm?

Any of you using KOSO? Or any other aftermarket brands to intro me?

 

congrats!!

[StrongBow]

congrats!!

 

Thanks bro! hows ur ride?

[StrongBow]

congrats!!

 

Thanks bro! hows ur ride?

[lemontree123]

hey guys what is the STOCK front and rear sprocket size?

 

Also, i want to get new gold chain. is RK good brand?

 

Many thanks!

[azman ibrahim]

guys, i notice my front fork is damn soft for my liking. this is the 2nd time. the first i just top up the fork oil. is it time for me to service fork?

[mrkookz]

Hi All,

 

Long time lurker, first time poster. Seems to be *THE* resource for CB400 info...glad I found it.

 

I've got a 2008 CB400 with ABS - I think it's an NC42 - anyway, it looks identical to the one posted at the very beginning of this thread.

 

My bike has this annoying rattling noise at 3-5000rpm, especially when cold, but it seems to be noticeable now even when warm. The noise has been present since I got the bike at about 4,800km. I've had the cam chain tensioner replaced which didn't fix it and the oil is regularly replaced. It's really annoying and I wanted to see what other SB CB400 riders may think? I've posted about it elsewhere on the web and there are others with the same problem, but no solutions as yet.

 

Here's a youtube video of the rattle...grateful for any thoughts and comments...

 

Cheers,

 

John

 

[ramsnake]

hey guys what is the STOCK front and rear sprocket size?

 

Also, i want to get new gold chain. is RK good brand?

 

Many thanks!

 

RK chains are made in Japan and they are the equivalent of the made in USA DID chains. However, both DID and RK also manufacture chains that are cheaper and of medium quality. So, choose the top quality range.

 

Stock sprockets ratios are 15 Front / 44 Rear, 525 pitch.

 

I have converted my chain and sprockets to 520 pitch while maintaining the stock gear ratios. The lighter set up definitely gives better throttle response.

 

guys, i notice my front fork is damn soft for my liking. this is the 2nd time. the first i just top up the fork oil. is it time for me to service fork?

 

Yes, just an oil top up is not enough. My mileage is about 85k km already. Both the forks and rear shocks are on the max preload settings and they are definitely still too soft.

 

I'll be giving the forks and shocks a full service soon. This will involve:

Forks - Adding a shim to add preload within the forks. Using heavier weight fork oil.

Shocks - Spring spacer to increase preload. Heavier oil. Adding a valve to the gas canister and refill with nitrogen gas.

 

 

Hi All,

 

Long time lurker, first time poster. Seems to be *THE* resource for CB400 info...glad I found it.

 

I've got a 2008 CB400 with ABS - I think it's an NC42 - anyway, it looks identical to the one posted at the very beginning of this thread.

 

My bike has this annoying rattling noise at 3-5000rpm, especially when cold, but it seems to be noticeable now even when warm. The noise has been present since I got the bike at about 4,800km. I've had the cam chain tensioner replaced which didn't fix it and the oil is regularly replaced. It's really annoying and I wanted to see what other SB CB400 riders may think? I've posted about it elsewhere on the web and there are others with the same problem, but no solutions as yet.

 

Here's a youtube video of the rattle...grateful for any thoughts and comments...

 

Cheers,

 

John

 

 

Hi John,

 

Welcome to posting on this thread!

 

I believe it is the clutch basket. Try pressing your clutch lever to engage the clutch when idling. You should notice that the "humming" rattling sound ceases.

 

When I first encountered this similar sound on my bike, my mech told me that it is a "standard issue Honda bike side effect". LOL...

 

It is the clutch plates basket that is making the noise. So long as your clutch isn't slipping and you are not losing power, it's ok. Don't change it because this "noise" will come back after your new clutch basket is seasoned.

 

@StrongBow Is this the sound you hear on your bike too?

[StrongBow]

 

watch this video. is this the part that causes the rattling?

[tomdickharry]

Hi guys,

 

i notice aft 1 mth since i own my bike...e rpm goes up from 2 - 2.2k when i 1st started my bike...but aft warming up back to ard 1.4-1.5k....is there any prob??

 

and also when braking (ebc brake pads) n closing to a stop...there is some metal grinding sound coming from e front...went to bikeshop, they say is ok, becos ebc brakes are like tis....is it true??? Thanks a MILLION!!!!

[ramsnake]

 

watch this video. is this the part that causes the rattling?

 

Harro... did you do the clutch test I suggested to mrkookz?

If you haven't done it, what's the correlation between clutch basket as I suggested and cam tensioner as per your vid?

 

 

Hi guys,

 

i notice aft 1 mth since i own my bike...e rpm goes up from 2 - 2.2k when i 1st started my bike...but aft warming up back to ard 1.4-1.5k....is there any prob??

 

and also when braking (ebc brake pads) n closing to a stop...there is some metal grinding sound coming from e front...went to bikeshop, they say is ok, becos ebc brakes are like tis....is it true??? Thanks a MILLION!!!!

 

RPM - please read the FAQ thread. It should be there.

 

Brakes - I'm assuming you have checked for small stones lodged between pads and discs. If there's no stones lodged, yes, it's normal for EBC pads if you haven't cleaned it for awhile. No special cleaning required. I just spray MucOff bike cleaner when washing my bike and rinse off. This cleans brake dust off the pads and discs, thus minimising the "grind".

[ramsnake]

Harro... did you do the clutch test I suggested to mrkookz?

If you haven't done it, what's the correlation between clutch basket as I suggested and cam tensioner as per your vid?

 

Pardon me, @StrongBow. I've just checked the video of the CCT again and noticed that it was uploaded by a John Connolly on 29 May 2012. I also noticed that this John Connolly posted another vid on 13 May 2012 and this vid was just posted by @mrkookz aka John on our Revo thread.

 

This John Connolly seems to have found the origins of his rattling sound issue on 29 May. My question is - Is mrkookz the same person as John Connolly on youtube? If so, why is he asking us for help on an issue he seems to have found the answer for?

 

Oddly, the sound I hear in the first vid is the same as what I encounter on my bike. This sound is from the clutch basket which goes away when the clutch is engaged. Thus it has nothing to do with the cam chain tensioner.

[tomdickharry]

RPM - please read the FAQ thread. It should be there.

 

Brakes - I'm assuming you have checked for small stones lodged between pads and discs. If there's no stones lodged, yes, it's normal for EBC pads if you haven't cleaned it for awhile. No special cleaning required. I just spray MucOff bike cleaner when washing my bike and rinse off. This cleans brake dust off the pads and discs, thus minimising the "grind".

 

 

Hi there, read thru e faq...knew tat e idling is at 1.4k rpm...but wad i notice on my bike is tat there is an increase on rpm when i jus start e bike...from 2k (1 mth ago) up to 2.2k (current) rpm...but after warm up is perfectly fine...jus wanna check if any1 has encounter e same prob??? if any1 know wads wrong, maybe can enlighten me here....really appreciate tat...Thanks!!!

[ramsnake]

Hi there, read thru e faq...knew tat e idling is at 1.4k rpm...but wad i notice on my bike is tat there is an increase on rpm when i jus start e bike...from 2k (1 mth ago) up to 2.2k (current) rpm...but after warm up is perfectly fine...jus wanna check if any1 has encounter e same prob??? if any1 know wads wrong, maybe can enlighten me here....really appreciate tat...Thanks!!!

 

I guess the FAQ doesn't explain this properly, so here goes...

 

Nothing's wrong. What you are describing is the auto-choke function on an ECU equipped vehicle. This kicks in when starting a cold engine whereby the engine idles at about 2k-2.3k RPM. Within a minute or so, the revs gradually come down to about 1.4k, it's idling speed when warm.

[tomdickharry]

I guess the FAQ doesn't explain this properly, so here goes...

 

Nothing's wrong. What you are describing is the auto-choke function on and ECU equipped vehicle. This kicks in when starting a cold engine whereby the engine idles at about 2k-2.3k RPM. Within a minute or so, the revs gradually come down to about 1.4k, it's idling speed when warm.

 

oh i see....thks alot bro ramsnake....really appreciate ur help....

[chiaph]

where can i find the (break in) part in CB400 Revo manual? i suppose all manual comes with a figure that explain for how many miles you're to keep under a certain rpm right? anyone have any idea? my previous bikes's manual shows the (break in) in the owner's manual.

 

i would like those figure to make some comparing.

[ramsnake]

where can i find the (break in) part in CB400 Revo manual? i suppose all manual comes with a figure that explain for how many miles you're to keep under a certain rpm right? anyone have any idea? my previous bikes's manual shows the (break in) in the owner's manual.

 

i would like those figure to make some comparing.

 

This is from Honda's manual:

Page 74 - http://campaigns.hondampe.com.au/Motorcycles/manuals/CB400-A-SA.pdf

It doesn't tell you much.

(Something wrong with SBF and I can't upload the screenshot of the page)

 

Real World Options:

 

Hard Break In

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

On the Street:

Warm the engine up completely:

Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

 

Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want

anyone to get hit from behind !!

 

The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more

and run it through the gears !

 

Be Safe On The Street !

Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.

 

Soft/Gentle Break In

http://www.rc51.org/breakin.htm

[chiaph]

This is from Honda's manual:

Page 74 - http://campaigns.hondampe.com.au/Motorcycles/manuals/CB400-A-SA.pdf

It doesn't tell you much.

(Something wrong with SBF and I can't upload the screenshot of the page)

 

Real World Options:

 

Hard Break In

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

On the Street:

Warm the engine up completely:

Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

 

Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want

anyone to get hit from behind !!

 

The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more

and run it through the gears !

 

Be Safe On The Street !

Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.

 

Soft/Gentle Break In

http://www.rc51.org/breakin.htm

 

thanks bro! i had those information that you mention above. yup, the service manual doesn't tell much. just curious to find out more because when i was flipping through my previous bike manual, it tells the for how many miles ones must stay below that figure rpm.

[ramsnake]

thanks bro! i had those information that you mention above. yup, the service manual doesn't tell much. just curious to find out more because when i was flipping through my previous bike manual, it tells the for how many miles ones must stay below that figure rpm.

 

Read this: http://www.mototuneusa.com/power_news_--_future_horsepower.htm

[azman ibrahim]

hey bro! you know how much it will roughly cost?

RK chains are made in Japan and they are the equivalent of the made in USA DID chains. However, both DID and RK also manufacture chains that are cheaper and of medium quality. So, choose the top quality range.

 

Stock sprockets ratios are 15 Front / 44 Rear, 525 pitch.

 

I have converted my chain and sprockets to 520 pitch while maintaining the stock gear ratios. The lighter set up definitely gives better throttle response.

 

 

 

Yes, just an oil top up is not enough. My mileage is about 85k km already. Both the forks and rear shocks are on the max preload settings and they are definitely still too soft.

 

I'll be giving the forks and shocks a full service soon. This will involve:

Forks - Adding a shim to add preload within the forks. Using heavier weight fork oil.

Shocks - Spring spacer to increase preload. Heavier oil. Adding a valve to the gas canister and refill with nitrogen gas.

 

 

 

 

Hi John,

 

Welcome to posting on this thread!

 

I believe it is the clutch basket. Try pressing your clutch lever to engage the clutch when idling. You should notice that the "humming" rattling sound ceases.

 

When I first encountered this similar sound on my bike, my mech told me that it is a "standard issue Honda bike side effect". LOL...

 

It is the clutch plates basket that is making the noise. So long as your clutch isn't slipping and you are not losing power, it's ok. Don't change it because this "noise" will come back after your new clutch basket is seasoned.

 

@StrongBow Is this the sound you hear on your bike too?

[azman ibrahim]

is it normal for your rpm to be at 5 to 5.5 when your at 90km/h?

[Izammo]

is it normal for your rpm to be at 5 to 5.5 when your at 90km/h?

 

Normal if you are on a stock gear ratio setup.

[StrongBow]

 

this is the rattle i hear on my bike after warmup, but before riding it around.

 

 

[video=youtube;sZ8-PtBi4hE]

 

this is the sound of my bike after warmup, and after riding around.

 

the rattle seems to have disappeared after i ride the bike around.

Clutching in does not help to cease the sound. anyone have fixed this before? under warranty?

[mrkookz]

@ramsnake - Yes, that's me with the cam chain tensioner too... Having the cam chain tensioner replaced "appeared" to fix it, but hasn't. I think I posted that CCT video a tad early and maybe jinxed myself! I'll update it with a comment.

 

Anyway, thanks for your suggesting of the clutch basket. I just went down to the bike and tried it out - it's been about 3 hours since I last rode it. Rattle evident with the clutch out AND with the clutch in, so unfortunately it's not that, or at least maybe it still could be, just that depressing the clutch lever doesn't make the sound go away...if that makes sense? Some part of the clutch is always spinning...not sure whether that's the basket bit or the other bit. Still learning my motorcycle mechanics 101. Sorry. No clutch slip or lost power FWIW.

 

I would have recorded a video clip to illustrate, but I don't have anyone here to hold the camera while I twist the throttle AND move the clutch lever in/out!

 

I tried having a listen to various parts of the engine via a 'mechanics stethoscope' but still can't isolate the source.

 

@StrongBow - Thanks for getting in touch and for posting video of yours too. Sounds like the exact same problem...

 

Pardon me, @StrongBow. I've just checked the video of the CCT again and noticed that it was uploaded by a John Connolly on 29 May 2012. I also noticed that this John Connolly posted another vid on 13 May 2012 and this vid was just posted by @mrkookz aka John on our Revo thread.

 

This John Connolly seems to have found the origins of his rattling sound issue on 29 May. My question is - Is mrkookz the same person as John Connolly on youtube? If so, why is he asking us for help on an issue he seems to have found the answer for?

 

Oddly, the sound I hear in the first vid is the same as what I encounter on my bike. This sound is from the clutch basket which goes away when the clutch is engaged. Thus it has nothing to do with the cam chain tensioner.

[300]

hi bro, anyone want to sell showa can text me...

[ramsnake]

hey bro! you know how much it will roughly cost?

 

@azman ibrahim

 

If he hasn't changed his pricing, the rear shocks should be $240/pair. Forks are about $320, I think.

 

David Ong (Teck Thye)

12 Braddell Road Singapore 359900

Tel: 62803138