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Posted
moving of my 1st&2nd gear has a knocking noise,the rest of my 3th gear&

 

Just help someone in the neibourghood with similar problem symptom. His chaain slack a lot and pretty much worn on its roller (tell by gripping a chain link from the back sporket and shake it left and hard..a lot of play). His back sprocket teeth was also quite sharp and fron't drive gear looks "hooky" (sign of chain eating up gear teeth).

 

Got whole sporket set (front & back) changed and a new O-ring set of chain..problem gone. Yours' may or may not be this but do check your drive chain and sprokets or looseness in chain. Good luck.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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Posted
no...

the gears which i refered to are those which are inside your gearbox.

 

refer to attached for clearer understanding.

Improper clearance are like... if two gears are very close to each other without allowance, it will be very difficult to "squeeze" the teeth to sit together. Hence the cause of a tough gear change.

 

 

then this one how to rectify?

http://www.nea.gov.sg/cms/mss/gif/rainloc0.gif
Posted
For tool if you need..jsut a plier wide enough to grip the diameter of the lock nut..probably it may have some rust..any WD4d type penetrating lube should help. If no plier, use a cotton type cloth and fold an extra layer and have a good grip and turn..turning it out is anti-clockwise.

 

 

 

I think more likely its something loose..could even be engine mount to body bolt. However do try and see if it comes again when bike is running stationary. If you have double stand..let the engine run and change into 1st and 2nd gear and see if you can zero into where the sound is coming from..it help us to help you troubleshoot.

 

Thanks Ah pek.... Got it already.

 

The spec III manual states that the clutch free play should be about 1-2cm. But isn't it a bit too little? Coz by adjusting the free play to 1-2cm, the biting point is really very far out and have to release the clutch alot for it to engage. Dun know if this is abnormal or i am too used to having biting point that is near.

May 2005 - July 2007: Honda Phantom TA200 (FU 3*** S)

July 2007 - Dec 2016: Honda CB400 Spec III (FBB 7***X)

Dec 2016 - Aug 2017: Yamaha FZ1N (FBD 4***E)

Aug 2017 - Present: Kawasaki Z1000SX (FBF 6***B)

 

Boono :cool:

Posted
clutch free play should be about 1-2cm

 

Should be right. When new..everything is as set but as usage gets along..things start to wear and tear such as your clutch cable being stretch and the clutch level pivot point gets "longa". So to say 1-2 cm is just as a reference when all things new lah.

 

You have not mentioned anything about adjusting the other end of the clutch cable. This are the 'major' adjustment part. Use it only when the clutch handle level adjustment reach 3/4 way to maxs for your biting point preference. Should be in the manual too.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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