[SSDC] Class 2B (2016)

[lepergnome]

What time??

 

 

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i think 6pm that slot one you?

[Kayden91]

i think 6pm that slot one you?

 

8.20 hahah

 

 

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[lepergnome]

8.20 hahah

 

 

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you also at lesson 2 meh?

[FTW.]

L4 hard anot? And what bike do u have now. I was thinking of getting R125 but q hard to find in sg... Any suggestions for beginner?

 

 

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I am selling. Aprilia RS4 125.

 

IIRC, L4 is the circuit assessment. If you pass, you can go on the road. I failed at the S course, I think. Timing too long.

[mister.skudder]

I am selling. Aprilia RS4 125.

 

IIRC, L4 is the circuit assessment. If you pass, you can go on the road. I failed at the S course, I think. Timing too long.

 

Wah nice. This one is the 4-stroke version right? How much you selling for & coe till when? One of my options is that bike also after i pass my TP...

 

So which 2A bike you getting? Kawa 250R? Quite cheap & beast also le haha.

 

 

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[FTW.]

Yeaps, 4 stroke - you can see it here - https://carousell.com/p/38088096/.

 

I actually had this bike even before I pass my license - https://carousell.com/p/22613410. Trust me - Having a bike already in possession, makes u want to even pass it more. Haha.

 

I was thinking of this but still not launched yet - http://www.hondaprokevin.com/2017-honda-cbr-super-sport-bike-motorcycle-concept/. Or maybe Ducati Scrambler 62. If not, I might just ride a Vespa + sidecar first - have one laid up, just need to put it on road and get insurance.

 

Wah nice. This one is the 4-stroke version right? How much you selling for & coe till when? One of my options is that bike also after i pass my TP...

 

So which 2A bike you getting? Kawa 250R? Quite cheap & beast also le haha.

 

 

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[mister.skudder]

Yeaps, 4 stroke - you can see it here - https://carousell.com/p/38088096/.

 

I actually had this bike even before I pass my license - https://carousell.com/p/22613410. Trust me - Having a bike already in possession, makes u want to even pass it more. Haha.

 

I was thinking of this but still not launched yet - http://www.hondaprokevin.com/2017-honda-cbr-super-sport-bike-motorcycle-concept/. Or maybe Ducati Scrambler 62. If not, I might just ride a Vespa + sidecar first - have one laid up, just need to put it on road and get insurance.

 

Oh man it looks so sick! damn! Haha just keep riding your RS4 125 until someone buys it la haha.. No nd ride vespa

 

 

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[Tofuuuuuu]

Hi bros can check with you all. Example if im approaching a bend. Im at gear 4 and want to go down to gear 2. Assuming i want to do engine braking, i have to

 

From gear 4 to gear 3

1. Close throttle, brake if needed

2. Clutch in

3. Down gear

4. Release clutch

 

Question is, do i have to throttle after releasing clutch at the same time? If yes, why do i have to throttle since i'm planning to down to gear 2? Or should i let it slow down more w/o throttle before i down to gear 2?

 

Thanks!

[mister.skudder]

for me i close throttle first, then brake a bit, then i straight away drop fr gear 4 to gear 2, then after further braking when speed is appropriate (not too slow), i release the clutch slowly and can feel the engine braking as i release the clutch.

 

But if do your way then i wldn't throttle after releasing clutch...

 

But what do i know, i havent even been on the road yet haha... So can someone enlighten me whether straight away gear down from 4 to 2 is a gd idea.. Will it cause bike problems..? Ty

 

 

 

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[KirinXHell]

Better go straight from gear 4 to 3, then from 3 to 2.

If your speed is not within the range of the gear you'r dropping to, the bike will jerk and the speed will drop rapidly.

[KirinXHell]

Anyone know if it's possible to get a license (2B) before 18 May?

Currently I'm at Lesson 5 SSDC.

[FTW.]

Anyone know if it's possible to get a license (2B) before 18 May?

Currently I'm at Lesson 5 SSDC.

 

Check here inline with your progress - https://www.ssdcl.com.sg/Home/TestDate

[FTW.]

Hi bros can check with you all. Example if im approaching a bend. Im at gear 4 and want to go down to gear 2. Assuming i want to do engine braking, i have to

 

From gear 4 to gear 3

1. Close throttle, brake if needed

2. Clutch in

3. Down gear

4. Release clutch

 

Question is, do i have to throttle after releasing clutch at the same time? If yes, why do i have to throttle since i'm planning to down to gear 2? Or should i let it slow down more w/o throttle before i down to gear 2?

 

Thanks!

 

Engine brake, if too fast brake abit, then down gear to 3.

Repeat above

Then turn

After turn, up gear and open throttle

 

With regards to your question, can just maintain throttle, no need to open. After you get the gist, all these muscle movements becomes more natural.

[Tofuuuuuu]

Engine brake, if too fast brake abit, then down gear to 3.

Repeat above

Then turn

After turn, up gear and open throttle

 

With regards to your question, can just maintain throttle, no need to open. After you get the gist, all these muscle movements becomes more natural.

 

Hi bro thank you for your reply.

 

By engine brake, you mean just closing the throttle right?

 

Also when you say maintain throttle.. You mean that I roll back my throttle back to the same position before I change gear?

 

So it's like.. From gear 4 to 3,

- close throttle (engine brake), brake if needed

- clutch in

- down gear

- throttle go back to position before I change gear

- clutch out

 

Hope my understanding is correct.

Thanks

[FTW.]

Should be. If not free gear (clutch in) and open throttle, ur bike will be noisy with the free-gear acceleration. Which lesson are you at now?

 

- clutch in

- down gear

- clutch out

- throttle go back to position before I change gear

[Tofuuuuuu]

Should be. If not free gear (clutch in) and open throttle, ur bike will be noisy with the free-gear acceleration. Which lesson are you at now?

 

- clutch in

- down gear

- clutch out

- throttle go back to position before I change gear

 

At lesson 1 now bro and fail once. Think need more practice

[WhySquare]

Tofuuuuuu's original question about opening throttle when lowering gear is something called "rev matching" to ensure smoother transition to a lower gear. You basically close throttle, then *clutch in, accelerate, step gear down, close throttle again* before releasing the clutch. Everything between the ** are done nearly simultaneously.

 

You can do that in daily riding but because it is not a technique taught in the school, it's best not to use it. Also, you may want to avoid it during the TP test in case you over-rev. That costs some points.

 

What the others have advised is correct. When lowering gear, you should first close the throttle, then apply the brakes until it's slow enough before pulling the clutch lever in, stepping down ONE GEAR, and then releasing the clutch lever slowly (you can accelerate a little at this point of the engine braking effect is too strong). Pull clutch lever in and step down again as needed if gear is still too high. Don't "throw" the clutch out because it will cause you to be jerky due to high wheel revolution not matching engine rpm. Again, costs points for being either wobbly or having bad posture if not done properly. Worse, if your leg comes down due to the sudden jerk... And for holding on to clutch lever while not changing gear, it is again considered "wrong posture" so don't hold on for too long. Just lift your fingers off if you're not using the clutch lever.

 

And don't wait for the speed to get too low via engine brake, in case the engine stalls. Go for more rounds to gauge the speed you can make the turn so you know how slow you need to be before you enter the bend.

 

After all the ways on how easy to obtain points, some good news about taking the test in SSDC is that: the notoriously strict TP tester has been rotated to Ubi. It's easier to pass this year on until the next rotation of testers.

 

 

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Edited March 20, 2016 by WhySquare

[lepergnome]

i find it quite hard to balance on plank...... any tips?

[WhySquare]

Look far, grab the tank with your thighs and control the throttle and rear brake.

 

Just keep the clutch constantly at biting point and use only the rear brake to slow down. Important thing to remember is: when the bike is free-wheeling, it loses balance easier. Also, "practice the plank" wherever you are. By that, I mean just choosing a straight line and "balancing" along that line whenever you come to a low speed section in the circuit like traffic light or at stop line, especially after crank course toward the e-brake if you have already done lesson 3(2). That way, you get used to the balance point and center of the bike at every opportunity, not just when on the plank.

 

 

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[lepergnome]

Look far, grab the tank with your thighs and control the throttle and rear brake.

 

Just keep the clutch constantly at biting point and use only the rear brake to slow down. Important thing to remember is: when the bike is free-wheeling, it loses balance easier. Also, "practice the plank" wherever you are. By that, I mean just choosing a straight line and "balancing" along that line whenever you come to a low speed section in the circuit like traffic light or at stop line, especially after crank course toward the e-brake if you have already done lesson 3(2). That way, you get used to the balance point and center of the bike at every opportunity, not just when on the plank.

 

 

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Thanks bro. i find it quite hard to do it above 6s. my instructor said i do plank course too fast. its because i throttle too much.

i will try to apply rear brake tonight. thanks for the tips

[Tofuuuuuu]

Tofuuuuuu's original question about opening throttle when lowering gear is something called "rev matching" to ensure smoother transition to a lower gear. You basically close throttle, then *clutch in, accelerate, step gear down, close throttle again* before releasing the clutch. Everything between the ** are done nearly simultaneously.

 

You can do that in daily riding but because it is not a technique taught in the school, it's best not to use it. Also, you may want to avoid it during the TP test in case you over-rev. That costs some points.

 

What the others have advised is correct. When lowering gear, you should first close the throttle, then apply the brakes until it's slow enough before pulling the clutch lever in, stepping down ONE GEAR, and then releasing the clutch lever slowly (you can accelerate a little at this point of the engine braking effect is too strong). Pull clutch lever in and step down again as needed if gear is still too high. Don't "throw" the clutch out because it will cause you to be jerky due to high wheel revolution not matching engine rpm. Again, costs points for being either wobbly or having bad posture if not done properly. Worse, if your leg comes down due to the sudden jerk... And for holding on to clutch lever while not changing gear, it is again considered "wrong posture" so don't hold on for too long. Just lift your fingers off if you're not using the clutch lever.

 

And don't wait for the speed to get too low via engine brake, in case the engine stalls. Go for more rounds to gauge the speed you can make the turn so you know how slow you need to be before you enter the bend.

 

After all the ways on how easy to obtain points, some good news about taking the test in SSDC is that: the notoriously strict TP tester has been rotated to Ubi. It's easier to pass this year on until the next rotation of testers.

 

 

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Thank you bro, that is very detailed and informative. I'll try it on my next prac.

[mister.skudder]

Did my prac 4 (assessment) the other day. Got penalised 12 points for wobbling. I passed with 18points though.

 

The reason why I "wobble" , I think, is because everytime I make a right turn/left turn, I have to check blindspot. At gear one, it's hard to turn and check blindspot at the same time. Here is why: at Gear 1, even when I close throttle just a little bit (while maintaining clutch), the bike will slow down tremendously, causing a jerky movement. When bike is very slow, it's very hard to make a smooth turn (hence wobble). But when bike is very fast, it's hard to check blindspots.

 

So what do I do? Change to gear 2? (which is easier as closing throttle does not induce a jerking effect) or Don't close throttle? Or just deal with it and practice harder? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

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Edited March 21, 2016 by mister.skudder

[WhySquare]

The only 3 spots I can think of when you need to make a turn right after you move off are: circuit flag off point, stop line before traffic light junction (after you clear crank course and on your way to e-brake) and if you stop while exiting figure 8 course. These are the more challenging ones to check blind spot due to the balance. For the rest of the circuit, you should have more time to react as you have at least the width of a lane to check the blind spot.

 

In fact, for most blind spot checking, they should be done about 1 to 1.5 car lengths *before* you enter the bend. For example, when approaching the crank course, you should check blind spot once you clear the T-junction and before you have passed the "parking bay". That's according to TP tester standard. With this advanced length, you should have sufficient reaction time and also, your bike should still be straight and hence have lesser difficulty doing so.

 

As for the 3 spots I mentioned, what you can do is to maintain the throttle at gear 1, and apply the foot brakes. This will ensure there is sufficient centripetal force within the tyres (and engine, to some extent) and help maintain balance. When checking, just turn in an exaggerated manner then keep your eye point focused on where you want to go. No need to turn back fully after checking.

 

For your subsequent riding practices, practice using the foot brake almost exclusively. It will help you stabilize better and prevent wobble especially on the road, when you have to stop or slow down for u-turn from a high speed. Learning this habit helps you to avoid touching the front brake when turning, which is again bad riding posture. Anticipation is key, and apply front brake only to complement the stopping force when necessary.

 

 

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[mister.skudder]

The only 3 spots I can think of when you need to make a turn right after you move off are: circuit flag off point, stop line before traffic light junction (after you clear crank course and on your way to e-brake) and if you stop while exiting figure 8 course. These are the more challenging ones to check blind spot due to the balance. For the rest of the circuit, you should have more time to react as you have at least the width of a lane to check the blind spot.

 

 

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Yes you are right. It is difficult to check blindspot due to balance. Thank you for the very informative answer. So basically the key is to not turn the bike when checking blindspot. Only turn the bike after checking blindspot and have the correct eye point. I see. Will try your tips in the next RC. Thanks.

 

 

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[SianShi]

Hello guys, first post on this forum ever. How's everyone's lesson coming along? So far mine have be thoroughly bad.

 

Lesson 1 started at 05/12/15

 

Lesson 1 - 3X

Lesson 2 - 2X

Lesson 3 - 1X

Lesson 4 - 5X (tip for those who haven't done lesson 4. Focus on blindspot. 4pts X 3 almost die alr)

Lesson 5 - 4X (5th one next week 29th 10am)

 

Losing hope every time i have to retake a lesson. Sigh pie but still driven for my passion to ride.