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Posted
Originally posted by WW@Jan 11 2006, 09:13 PM

No,no, you need to load the engine. with engine break. like on 3rd gear pull to almost red line ,than let go of throttle and let the engine do the braking.

Therfore it migth be very dangerous if you do it on the road,cos the car or object behind you might not know you are slowing down.So i recommend you do it on a dyno machine.

Sorri Juz out of my curiosity, wat does hard break helps?

 

Wat are the differents between hard Run in And soft Run in:confused:

 

:sorry: :offtopic:

2002 - 2003 Yahama Tzr 125 (FH1687Z)

2003 - 2005 Honda Sp 150 (FR9672K)

2005 - 2007 Honda Cbr FireBlade 400 (FN543E)

2007 - 2010 Suzuki Gsx-R K7 1000 (AU222D)

2010 - 2011 Honda Civic FD2 (S*******)

 

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Posted
Originally posted by honam24@Jan 11 2006, 09:39 PM

Sorri Juz out of my curiosity, wat does hard break helps?

 

Wat are the differents between hard Run in And soft Run in:confused:

 

:sorry: :offtopic:

It really a very long thing to discuss.

maybe you can read in the motortune method.

 

But for mi,from wat i found out after doing the hard break in on my bike and compare with other same bike which did the easy break in.and after went to untiy for a dyno run plus teka, although he had a micron on it but the bhp is less than my bike which is stock at that time.

And to make this more believeing, my friend gsxr600 which did a easy break in and went for a dyno run plus teka , it initial bhp before teka is lesser than a brand new gsxr600 which had also did a dyno run in aka hard run in, the day before.

Posted
Originally posted by WW@Jan 11 2006, 10:21 PM

It really a very long thing to discuss.

maybe you can read in the motortune method.

 

But for mi,from wat i found out after doing the hard break in on my bike and compare with other same bike which did the easy break in.and after went to untiy for a dyno run plus teka, although he had a micron on it but the bhp is less than my bike which is stock at that time.

And to make this more believeing, my friend gsxr600 which did a easy break in and went for a dyno run plus teka , it initial bhp before teka is lesser than a brand new gsxr600 which had also did a dyno run in aka hard run in, the day before.

oh ok.... thank anywae.. so hard break in has its advantage in bringing up bhp.. btw wat teka:confused:

2002 - 2003 Yahama Tzr 125 (FH1687Z)

2003 - 2005 Honda Sp 150 (FR9672K)

2005 - 2007 Honda Cbr FireBlade 400 (FN543E)

2007 - 2010 Suzuki Gsx-R K7 1000 (AU222D)

2010 - 2011 Honda Civic FD2 (S*******)

 

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j165/honam24/Bikini%20Bike%20Wash/My%20Bike/IMG_2304copy.jpg

All the way across the board with no limitation

Posted
Originally posted by honam24@Jan 11 2006, 10:36 PM

oh ok.... thank anywae.. so hard break in has its advantage in bringing up bhp.. btw wat teka:confused:

Not really so lah, but from my own point of view and with some fact. But some say in the long run , easy break in is better. but i dun think i will ride my bike for other 5 year.Cos after the hard run in, you can ride it fast(i mean you dun really need to slow run in till 1600km which the manfactur recommend milage before you whack your bike.) to the red zone and not worry about your bike will spoil.

 

As for teka , it a tunning device make only for suzuki fuel injection bike, it can tune your bike certain percentage of fuel injection and over write it without a PC.

Posted
Originally posted by WW@Jan 11 2006, 11:13 PM

Not really so lah, but from my own point of view and with some fact. But some say in the long run , easy break in is better. but i dun think i will ride my bike for other 5 year.Cos after the hard run in, you can ride it fast(i mean you dun really need to slow run in till 1600km which the manfactur recommend milage before you whack your bike.) to the red zone and not worry about your bike will spoil.

 

As for teka , it a tunning device make only for suzuki fuel injection bike, it can tune your bike certain percentage of fuel injection and over write it without a PC.

wow... ok... thank for sharing ur info with me.... Great wise man indeed..

 

 

 

:cheeky:

2002 - 2003 Yahama Tzr 125 (FH1687Z)

2003 - 2005 Honda Sp 150 (FR9672K)

2005 - 2007 Honda Cbr FireBlade 400 (FN543E)

2007 - 2010 Suzuki Gsx-R K7 1000 (AU222D)

2010 - 2011 Honda Civic FD2 (S*******)

 

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j165/honam24/Bikini%20Bike%20Wash/My%20Bike/IMG_2304copy.jpg

All the way across the board with no limitation

Posted
Originally posted by honam24@Jan 11 2006, 11:18 PM

wow... ok... thank for sharing ur info with me.... Great wise man indeed.. :cheeky:

Hai yah honam24. WW is a legendlah in here. Want to know anything about bikes, ask him. :bow: :thumb: :cheer:

First learn stand, then learn fly. Nature's rules biker-sans. Not mine...

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The more we get together, the FASTER we'll be..

 

Mar 93 - Oct 94 : TZR125 FF5209R

Oct 94 - May 98 : GSX R400N FK3745K

May 98 - Oct 05 : GSX R400R FN3306D

Oct 05 - June 11 : '02 YZF R1 FBF3637M

June 11 - Feb 19 : '11 ZX10R

Feb 19 - ??????? : '14 S1000RR

Posted
Originally posted by Aie@Jan 12 2006, 08:12 AM

Hai yah honam24. WW is a legendlah in here. Want to know anything about bikes, ask him. :bow: :thumb: :cheer:

:confused: :confused: i am just a normal biker just like everyone.

i only share wat i know or i can do, but not dig hole.

Posted
Originally posted by WW@Jan 11 2006, 11:13 PM

but i dun think i will ride my bike for other 5 year.Cos after the hard run in, you can ride it fast

so whatever damage that happens to the engine will be the responsibility of the next person who buys it?

 

in my humble opinion, the manufacturer does not stand to gain with their soft run in recommendation. basically if someone has a license to ride a litre bike, i would think that they have enough cow sense to not throw the clutch or rev it to the red line immediately after buying their bike. even if they were to crash their bike on the first day that they get it, the manufacturer is not legally obliged to entertain any form of compensation.

to put it in layman's terms, i sell u a bike. u crash the bike. u want me to pay. i tell u to f*ck spider. so simple.

 

secondly, why would the manufacturer mislead their valued customers with wrong operating instructions? if soft run ins are detrimental for the engine in the long run, the bike will suck and the entire production of bikes which were run in the soft way will have poor performance. if this happens, who the fish will want to buy that particular brand of motorcycles? everyone will say that this brand is crap, don't buy their machines, ride them for 2-3 years and they still move like molasses.

 

thirdly, the internet is filled with crap. everyone knows that, hey read up on sbf topics and you will find that 'engineers', 'professors' and 'professional racers' stake their claims on bike maintenance. i mean, come on, i dare say that 90% of these people are tua pow (bullshit) preachers who sit calmly behind their monitors typing out their unproven theories while picking their noses. the worst thing is, they have never tried their own theories before endorsing them and some stupid newbies who step in will read up on these rhetoric diarrhoea before practicing it on their own machines. what could possibly get any worse? they teach it to the other newbies.

 

i have chanced upon this mototune website once but i forgot the person who was behind the hard run in theory. who the f*ck is he?

 

a. engineer

b. professor

c. professional racer

d. talk c*** cb kia

e. is that person even real ?

 

does anyone here (IN SINGAPORE AND THIS FORUM) know him in person?

maybe i'll give him the benefit of a doubt. the internet is for sharing of information (and porn) and people do have the good will to share their own experiences but it might have never crossed their mind that what they are doing has ill side effects. i wouldn't know jacksh*t about running in of our machines but if ALL the manufacturers do indicate soft run in procedures, i'll go with the flow.

 

(i expect some sbf bullshit preachers to jump when they do discover that there are indeed people who disagree with their holy opinion but hey, i can't please everyone so do it as i do, take everything u read from the www with a pinch of salt.)(not literally)(or you will be very thirsty)(and you will experience increasing hair loss)

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Posted
Originally posted by johntan@Jan 11 2006, 06:42 PM

interesting feedback... first non-positive one I've come across so far.... I was on another bike and car forum with international members and they all seem to think his method is good..

 

Could you link the sites/threads/forums where others have other comments... would make for interesting reading and pondering...

what i've gathered runs thru over the years. one webbie that i can still remember and still viewing is zx-10r.net. others are mainly magazines, webbies. and i spend some time in states too, just like us, they each has different "theories" too.

 

at the end of the day, we decide for ourselves what we believe. for me, i will do the soft. i think it will not be so harsh in the inside and with my mediocre riding skills, i doubt the 1-3 bhps (or more), will do any difference for me.

 

:smile:

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Posted

Actually what enfant say is also true. Let me put it in layman's terms so that our bros can understand better. Let's say you know that this girl is a virgin. You do not immediately jump on her and bang her as and how you like. Have to go slow and steady cos if not, surely traumatised and won't enjoy doing it with you anymore. I guess a brand new bike is also the same. Everything so brand new, suddenly you just jumped on and whacked the engine like there's no tomorrow. The brand new engine is not used to such sudden 'force' so bound to be pressurized to perform that something might give way inside. :giddy:

Actually, I myself don't know whether a hard break-in or a soft break-in is better cos all the bikes I have owned are 2nd hand bikes. I'm just giving that analogy cos when you think about it, it is logical but then again machines and humans are different, right? Whatever apply to humans may not apply to machines. So go figure... :cheeky:

First learn stand, then learn fly. Nature's rules biker-sans. Not mine...

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/1859/11superbikesmackdown11.jpg

The more we get together, the FASTER we'll be..

 

Mar 93 - Oct 94 : TZR125 FF5209R

Oct 94 - May 98 : GSX R400N FK3745K

May 98 - Oct 05 : GSX R400R FN3306D

Oct 05 - June 11 : '02 YZF R1 FBF3637M

June 11 - Feb 19 : '11 ZX10R

Feb 19 - ??????? : '14 S1000RR

Posted
Originally posted by Aie@Jan 12 2006, 03:11 PM

Actually what enfant say is also true. Let me put it in layman's terms so that our bros can understand better. Let's say you know that this girl is a virgin. You do not immediately jump on her and bang her as and how you like. Have to go slow and steady cos if not, surely traumatised and won't enjoy doing it with you anymore. I guess a brand new bike is also the same. Everything so brand new, suddenly you just jumped on and whacked the engine like there's no tomorrow. The brand new engine is not used to such sudden 'force' so bound to be pressurized to perform that something might give way inside. :giddy:

Actually, I myself don't know whether a hard break-in or a soft break-in is better cos all the bikes I have owned are 2nd hand bikes. I'm just giving that analogy cos when you think about it, it is logical but then again machines and humans are different, right? Whatever apply to humans may not apply to machines. So go figure... :cheeky:

ouch... bad anology... hope no gals are reading this.. LOL... but has it occurred to you that maybe some like it "hard"... hahaha... pun intended.

 

Really, I don't know who that motoman (or motomouth) is... but I can across this "info" from other car sites... this guy in Neteherlands was running in his Mit Airtrek turbo and claimed that it worked for him... I PMed him and his car is still running fine.

 

For me, I have to separate hard from thrashing....

I always run my motors (bike and car) hard... as opposed to thrashing it.

Hard means you don't over-rev the bugger, you warm up, you warm down.

Thrash is like some idiots who take their (esp turbo) cars out... someone "chios" them... and before their car/engine is fully warm up... they ram it... and then the turbo/engine fials and they call it a piece of crap.

 

Just like lousy drivers/riders who after crashing... "walau, the bike (car) went out of control man!!" duhhh... they lost control... the machines don't operate by themselves.

 

Anyway, I have seen engines which are driven so gently that their rings just seize up from all the blow-by and carbon build up...

 

Like many here said... opinions are divided and the article was posted for all to make their own judgement.

 

and like I said... the guy's theory has rational behind it.....

 

Diff strokes for diff folks... the pleasure's the same ;-p

 

Go on... break your engine in by a hardbreaker or whatever... just don't break your heart or your bank... hahaha

Posted

i agree with the riding it hard and trashing it is totally different. from the motoman way of running it in with different percentage of turn of the throttle. i agree with it that the dyno run in isn't trashing the bike but running it hard and sealing the piston nice nice. :thumb:

Good Game No Replay......

Posted
Originally posted by alj@Jan 12 2006, 03:42 PM

Well guys .... Hard run in is good only for the short term .... Soft run ins are good for the long term ....

 

Riders, weigh your ride :smile:

just wondering why running it hard initially will cause wear and tear in the long run but soft run in won't ? just curious about this point.

 

u run in soft intially but wack the bike like no tomolo, doesn't it equates to wear and tear too ??

Good Game No Replay......

Posted
Originally posted by Aie@Jan 12 2006, 08:12 AM

Hai yah honam24. WW is a legendlah in here. Want to know anything about bikes, ask him.  :bow: :thumb: :cheer:

U too.. :smile:

 

ya i heard about him before, he can wheelie for a distance... saw his bike dyno.... damn chio....

 

:cheeky:

2002 - 2003 Yahama Tzr 125 (FH1687Z)

2003 - 2005 Honda Sp 150 (FR9672K)

2005 - 2007 Honda Cbr FireBlade 400 (FN543E)

2007 - 2010 Suzuki Gsx-R K7 1000 (AU222D)

2010 - 2011 Honda Civic FD2 (S*******)

 

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j165/honam24/Bikini%20Bike%20Wash/My%20Bike/IMG_2304copy.jpg

All the way across the board with no limitation

Posted
Originally posted by WW@Jan 12 2006, 09:31 AM

:confused: :confused: i am just a normal biker just like everyone.

i only share wat i know or i can do, but not dig hole.

:lol: thk pal.. if i got the chance to get my self a k6 ,i need u guys help.

 

:cheeky:

2002 - 2003 Yahama Tzr 125 (FH1687Z)

2003 - 2005 Honda Sp 150 (FR9672K)

2005 - 2007 Honda Cbr FireBlade 400 (FN543E)

2007 - 2010 Suzuki Gsx-R K7 1000 (AU222D)

2010 - 2011 Honda Civic FD2 (S*******)

 

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j165/honam24/Bikini%20Bike%20Wash/My%20Bike/IMG_2304copy.jpg

All the way across the board with no limitation

Posted
Originally posted by honam24@Jan 12 2006, 05:40 PM

:lol: thk pal.. if i got the chance to get my self a k6 ,i need u guys help. :cheeky:

Don't be shy to seek help from WW and his friends. Friendly bunch of guys who are not stingy with their knowledge on bikes... :thumb:

First learn stand, then learn fly. Nature's rules biker-sans. Not mine...

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/1859/11superbikesmackdown11.jpg

The more we get together, the FASTER we'll be..

 

Mar 93 - Oct 94 : TZR125 FF5209R

Oct 94 - May 98 : GSX R400N FK3745K

May 98 - Oct 05 : GSX R400R FN3306D

Oct 05 - June 11 : '02 YZF R1 FBF3637M

June 11 - Feb 19 : '11 ZX10R

Feb 19 - ??????? : '14 S1000RR

Posted
Originally posted by enfant@Jan 12 2006, 10:11 AM

so whatever damage that happens to the engine will be the responsibility of the next person who buys it?

 

Should be ba.

It wont be my responsibility if i sold to bike shop and bike shop sold to other.

unless i sold the bike myself to a friend.

 

But after trying hard run in for my bike, i found my bike is still running strong and alot who did the hard run in had no complain.and compare with the dyno reading , i still perfer the hard run in. it save alot of time.

 

But one thing for sure , keep changing your EO if possible during the run in period.

And after that change to a fully sys EO .

Posted
Originally posted by WW@Jan 12 2006, 06:44 PM

Should be ba.

It wont be my responsibility if i sold to bike shop and bike shop sold to other.

unless i sold the bike myself to a friend.

no wonder all the second hand bikes in the market are in piss poor condition. i pity the next person who buys your bike, he will have piston leakage, engine oil loss and whatever.

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Posted
Originally posted by enfant@Jan 12 2006, 07:54 PM

no wonder all the second hand bikes in the market are in piss poor condition. i pity the next person who buys your bike, he will have piston leakage, engine oil loss and whatever.

"But after trying hard run in for my bike, i found my bike is still running strong and alot who did the hard run in had no complain.and compare with the dyno reading , i still perfer the hard run in. it save alot of time.

But one thing for sure , keep changing your EO if possible during the run in period.

And after that change to a fully sys EO ".

 

Or the next owner may own a powerful bike... Who knows... :thumb:

First learn stand, then learn fly. Nature's rules biker-sans. Not mine...

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/1859/11superbikesmackdown11.jpg

The more we get together, the FASTER we'll be..

 

Mar 93 - Oct 94 : TZR125 FF5209R

Oct 94 - May 98 : GSX R400N FK3745K

May 98 - Oct 05 : GSX R400R FN3306D

Oct 05 - June 11 : '02 YZF R1 FBF3637M

June 11 - Feb 19 : '11 ZX10R

Feb 19 - ??????? : '14 S1000RR

Posted
Originally posted by enfant@Jan 12 2006, 07:54 PM

no wonder all the second hand bikes in the market are in piss poor condition. i pity the next person who buys your bike, he will have piston leakage, engine oil loss and whatever.

Haha, a very funny theory. i wonder , how many biker actually buy a big sport bike and dun whack the bike.

But even for my last time ride, it still in very good condition after 4yr with mi. no problem like wat you mention.

 

maybe you suay , get those got problem 2nd hand bike.

 

Though i whack my current bike very offten, but i still take good care of it by changing to fully sys EO very offten.

I dun think anyone did wat i did, change EO every 200km during the run in period.

Posted

And maybe to those other biker, can read up other bike fourms . like gixxer.com or the R1 forum in the US. 80% of the biker would recommend the hard run in, and i guess that 80% are all not stupid biker ba. And no one say the soft run in is bad. the hard run in help you save time.

Posted
Originally posted by Scorpione_phantom@Jan 12 2006, 04:43 PM

just wondering why running it hard initially will cause wear and tear in the long run but soft run in won't ? just curious about this point.

 

u run in soft intially but wack the bike like no tomolo, doesn't it equates to wear and tear too ??

Well bro ... each has his preference ... :smile:

 

running in of engines actually cause wear and tear right. After running in of engines and each time when u went for engine oil change ... what do u see or feel from the drained engine oil? Some debris of metal chips right?

 

There is actually metal rubbing against metal whenever we start our bikes as we know. For brand new bikes, when the endine is not proprly sealed or run in, and some people run in hard which actually means to say that u don't over rave your RPM. Some people run in soft which also means that they are not running in like 80km/h but its just that they don't rave till the limit or as what some would call it, not yet to the designated RPM but maybe 1 or 2 RPM before that.

 

So when u run in the hard way, more friction and heat is produced thus making more wear and tear and thus more debris. Yes your piston ring sits in quicker, better and time is saved. Why cause of the hard run in. So which means that more wear and tear and maybe in the long run, u may need to overhaul your piston rings faster than those running in the so call soft way.

 

The soft approach is that u don't rave it to the designated RPM but keeping some distance from that and thus wear and tear is not so fast or great compared to the hard way. Thus that's why some people or u may have heard it that your engine lifespan is longer than those running in the hard way.

 

In terms of more HP on running in the hard way or what, is still a question to most of the mechanics, if u really talk to them. To them, it works well if they can earn more. Actually HP depends on alot of facters from the engine also. A engine which is torque properly compared to one which has loose screws, even wear and tear of cam compared to those unevenly weared ones ..., crankshafts, tensioner, timing chains, valve clearance etc all these also contributes to the engine's HP too right?

 

I bought my bike brand new, run in the soft way, rode it for 5 years till now, doesn't gave me any problems, thrash it hard every now and then when i rode it especially on the NSH, still is good to me ....

 

So again. Point i am trying to say is ... it depends on individuals and believes .... :smile:

What say u :angel:

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