Woopa!! Cbr1000rr Riders

[Tashi]

Originally posted by Ken@Apr 30 2005, 01:43 AM

You couldn't stop laughing when u describe the way he stand in the middle of the road with the hp.

But i couldn't imagine it, so ask u why didn't take photo, i need a good laugh nowadays.

You so bad, he in pain u still laughing and joking there...

Lucky u didn't said infront of him or his bone will sure pop out. hahaha.

Tashi, do organise an outing to hospital.

Remember to take photo leh.

We all poise for him.

hahaha.

OK, wake up! Let's go pump petrol in the morning, have breakfast and go visit him.

 

Actually when I showed Augustina how he stood, she also laugh.

[chilly]

Guy's , Tashi trying a DUCATI 999 ???

 

http://img207.echo.cx/img207/9912/t28ma.jpg

 

http://img214.echo.cx/img214/8559/tashi111np.jpg

[chilly]

Tashi , not bad haa... my camera phone !

[daRah Naikz]

buzzbeam....

 

i oso wan the lights...all the colours..hahahha.. wats the price leh?

[daRah Naikz]

guys, got heard one of the mechanic saying that for cbr1000 , the idling rpm must set high..at 1500rpm... if not the magnectic coil will spoil.. is this true?

 

 

[Tashi]

Originally posted by chilly@Apr 30 2005, 08:13 PM

Tashi , not bad haa... my camera phone !

Ya, your phone very nice, expecially the video.

 

Looks like the Duc is hurting my ... Seat is a bit hard, and have to stretch further compared to the Blade.

 

According to AT, # plate 0000 is the one that they sent to LTA for testing.

 

Wise monk has been discharged btw. I got his SMS. It's his softbone that got injured. Supposed to heal by itself.

 

Just woke up, how to go back to sleep, I think tomorrow cannot make it.

 

Naikz, I dunno, my idling has been lowered slightly sometime back, it's around 1100 to 1200 rpm, which is the recommended range, bike is now 1 yr 3 weeks old, just last week, I hit 28,888km with temp @ 88 dc, not a single problem.

[chilly]

Originally posted by Tashi@May 1 2005, 12:22 AM

Ya, your phone very nice, expecially the video.

 

Looks like the Duc is hurting my ... Seat is a bit hard, and have to stretch further compared to the Blade.

 

According to AT, # plate 0000 is the one that they sent to LTA for testing.

 

Wise monk has been discharged btw. I got his SMS. It's his softbone that got injured. Supposed to heal by itself.

 

Just woke up, how to go back to sleep, I think tomorrow cannot make it.

 

Naikz, I dunno, my idling has been lowered slightly sometime back, it's around 1100 to 1200 rpm, which is the recommended range, bike is now 1 yr 3 weeks old, just last week, I hit 28,888km with temp @ 88 dc, not a single problem.

So how is he ? Should be ok right ?

Just come down lah 2morrow ! At least you can be the cameraman

Edited the monkey face photo & made your biceps bigger !

Like your NEW body ?

[chilly]

Originally posted by daRah Naikz@Apr 30 2005, 09:43 PM

guys, got heard one of the mechanic saying that for cbr1000 , the idling rpm must set high..at 1500rpm... if not the magnectic coil will spoil.. is this true?

 

 

Mine slightly lower around 1300-1200 rpm.

True or not i'm not sure

[chilly]

Originally posted by chilly@Apr 30 2005, 08:08 PM

Guy's , Tashi trying a DUCATI 999 ???

 

http://img207.echo.cx/img207/9912/t28ma.jpg

 

http://img214.echo.cx/img214/8559/tashi111np.jpg

How's the new body look ?

[Tashi]

Originally posted by chilly@May 1 2005, 12:55 AM

How's the new body look ?

 

The monkey face already scared the hell of me. The new body looks like a lab experiment gone wrong. Hahahaha.

 

:faint:

 

I think in your past life, you must be a mad scientist who worked for Hitler, injecting serums into people to create uber soldat.

 

Augustina will have a fit if she sees this, maybe she like? Hahaha.

[daRah Naikz]

Naikz, I dunno, my idling has been lowered slightly sometime back, it's around 1100 to 1200 rpm, which is the recommended range, bike is now 1 yr 3 weeks old, just last week, I hit 28,888km with temp @ 88 dc, not a single problem.

 

 

ok... mine used to be set at 1200 rpm..seems ok to me..

but last 2 days , go and change engine oil and oil filter , after that mechanic say my rpm must set higher at 1500 rpm...

 

now my bike sounds funny leh and changing to first gear is a nuisance....

[Tashi]

Improper Sag:

Too much sag in the front forks (insufficient fork spring preload):

 

Head to shake especially during deceleration

Forks bottom under hard braking

Nervousness front end, and turns too quickly into corners

 

Too much to sag in the rear suspension (insufficient shocked preload):

 

Bike wallows during hard acceleration

Consistently tries to drift in the middle of corners

Light, and vague steering, especially when with a passenger

 

Not enough sag in the front forks (too much pre load and/or too stiff a spring):

 

Consistently tries to drift in the middle of corners

Front tire may skitter and lose traction under hard braking

Headshake, especially during hard acceleration coming off corners

 

Not enough sag in the rear suspension (too much preload and/or too stiff a spring):

 

Rear wheel hop over bumps while decelerating

Oversteer into corners with rear end feeling nervous

Loss of traction during hard acceleration, especially over rises in the road

 

Rebound Damping:

Too much rebound damping in the front forks:

 

Front end harsh after encountering consecutive bumps

Oversteers (turn in too sharply) after completing braking before corners

Headshake may develop while slowing in bumpy sections

 

Too much rebound damping in the rear shock:

 

Drifts wide into the middle of moderately bumpy corners

Shock may feel harsh or bottom out after encountering consecutive bumps

Rear tire loses contact with pavement, while traveling over elevation rises

 

Not enough rebound damping in the front forks:

 

Drifts wide upon releasing brakes while the trail breaking into a corner

Nervous feeling, and undesired line corrections occurring in turns

Front-end instability when encountering mid corner surface irregularities

 

Not enough rebound damping in the rear shock:

 

Excessive front-end dive during hard braking with rapid forward weight transfer

Lack of stability mid corner, with weaving behavior

Excessive and/or abnormal rear tire wear

 

Compression Damping:

Too much compression damping in front forks:

 

Very sharp shock felt through handlebars on potholes' or abrupt pavement seams

Lack of full fork travel despite extreme riding conditions and hard braking

Chattering front tire, loss of traction, on pavement irregularities while cornering

 

Too much compression damping in rear shock:

 

Loss of rear tire traction during hard acceleration

Oversteering on corner entrances

Rear tire chatter and loss of traction during braking

 

Not enough compression and damping in front forks:

 

Excessive front end dive during hard braking

Lack of front end feedback while cornering

Excessive front end movement while cornering

 

Not enough compression damping in rear shock:

 

Bike may run wide at corner as throttle is being rolled on hard

Wallowing during sudden throttle roll off a deceleration

Lack of feedback from rear tire at throttle roll-on during cornering

[jerryGSR]

[Tashi]

Originally posted by daRah Naikz@Apr 30 2005, 09:43 PM

guys, got heard one of the mechanic saying that for cbr1000 , the idling rpm must set high..at 1500rpm... if not the magnectic coil will spoil.. is this true?

 

 

Don't do what Ken does.

 

After a long trip, if his bike temp goes above 100 dc, he'll always kill the engine, but power is still on, so the fan keeps running till the bike is cooled down.

 

His batt got drained, and had to jump start once, that wrecked his mag coil some how.

 

Rule of thumb , whatever Ken recommends, one ear in, one ear out, hahaha.

[Tashi]

Abang Chilly, gambar mana?

[CBRmichaelRR]

Originally posted by Tashi@May 1 2005, 02:15 PM

Don't do what Ken does.

 

After a long trip, if his bike temp goes above 100 dc, he'll always kill the engine, but power is still on, so the fan keeps running till the bike is cooled down.

 

His batt got drained, and had to jump start once, that wrecked his mag coil some how.

 

Rule of thumb , whatever Ken recommends, one ear in, one ear out, hahaha.

oh is it... i also did that before a few times... sh*t....

[Raptor]

Originally posted by daRah Naikz@May 1 2005, 02:36 AM

 

ok... mine used to be set at 1200 rpm..seems ok to me..

but last 2 days , go and change engine oil and oil filter , after that mechanic say my rpm must set higher at 1500 rpm...

 

now my bike sounds funny leh and changing to first gear is a nuisance....

Did the mechanic recommend that the bike must be ridden at 7000 - 8000 RPM too, where the greatest amount of torque is generated so as not to strain the engine when moving off from a standing start??

 

Good luck to your clutch, transmission, drive chain and engine sprocket.

You might end up replacing all of them because of the backlash load caused by the 1500 rpm idling setting.

 

Dunno man... first time in my life I have heard of such a thing.

[Ken]

Wah, tashi u had done ur homework well huh.

hehehe.

Just dun push start when ur battery is drained guys.

pay $30 for tow truck is better that paying $300 and $175 for the battery...

[Raptor]

Originally posted by Tashi@May 1 2005, 02:15 PM

Don't do what Ken does.

 

After a long trip, if his bike temp goes above 100 dc, he'll always kill the engine, but power is still on, so the fan keeps running till the bike is cooled down.

 

His batt got drained, and had to jump start once, that wrecked his mag coil some how.

 

Rule of thumb , whatever Ken recommends, one ear in, one ear out, hahaha.

Under normal riding conditions... the water pump is running and circulating the coolant from the hot engine block to be cooled in the radiator and then back to the engine again. The fan just cools the coolant that is in the top right hand corner of the radiator. At traffic stops, when the fan comes on.. forced cooling is being done on the radiator.. and the forced cooled coolant is circulated by the water pump around the engine and it is only efficient enough to keep the temp at about 108 F.

Only when the bike moves, ram air will be able to bring the temp down quickly.

 

With the engine switched off, the water pump, which is directly driven my the engine is not pumping and so hot coolant from the engine is not being circulated back to the radiator.

 

Running the fan with without the engine on is only an exercise in futility. You are only cooling the coolant in the radiator which is really pointless when it is the coolant around the engine that really needs the cooling.

[kata_killer]

Originally posted by Ken@May 1 2005, 02:33 PM

Wah, tashi u had done ur homework well huh.

hehehe.

Just dun push start when ur battery is drained guys.

pay $30 for tow truck is better that paying $300 and $175 for the battery...

Yap... Cos U kanna rite?

[Tashi]

Originally posted by CBRmichaelRR@May 1 2005, 02:23 PM

oh is it... i also did that before a few times... sh*t....

I remember watching a video where a bike was running in a room so there there is no air flow. The engine was revved, and the temperature went up so high the metal pieces turned red hot.

 

Purpose was to find out how hot an engine can run.

 

I think after that, sparks were seen flying out, smoke was spewing. After that, the engine was allowed to cool down, did an oil change, started the bike again, no prob. I can only remember vaguely, but the moral of the story is, engines are quite reliable.

 

Using the fan to cool the engine maybe a better way to wreck your bike than the above.

 

About covering the bike and screwing back of the fairing, they apply at all times. Somewhere in this thread, I posted some pix of the cracked fairing I think. I also mentioned about the warp rear light.

 

Good luck finding them.

[Raptor]

Eh... all have a good rest and later tonight we meet at Pitstop??

Ken.. quit going to Bugis... go with us to Pitstop. We won't break your heart.. promise. Irritate you maybe... but break heart.. no.

 

Hey what about the rest of the CBR 1000 RR riders... all you Motherblade riders... how about a meet up at Pitstop this evening for a chitchat. Would be nice to line up a row of litre class Firblades at the front of the place for a change.

[Tashi]

I know why Abang Chilly hasn't posted pix yet, I bet my money that he is busy with his evil creation, turning us into some unholy abomination or freaks of nature.

[Ken]

After u let ur fan on for about 1 minute, u got to start the engine again to let the cooled coolant to circulate again.

Then u will see that ur temp will drop at least 10 degree.

But this way, drained the battery.

This way of cooling the bike is to target the piston ring oil seal, not engine.

The hard run in is to target the piston ring oil seal, to make sure it's tight to improve response time and better power.

If the bike is still very hot when stopped, it's said that the hot air will loosen the piston ring oil seal, like that the hard run in i did will be wasted.

Therefore, i did this way of cooling the bike.

But guess, power is redundant to me now.

i never did that anymore as my wallet is getting thinner nowadays.....

[Ken]

I need to keep my mind occupied with someone else u know.

So i must be very objective.

Bugis, Ban Zai !!~

Night time can lah, but evening, i will be on my mission.

hahaha.