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Posted

Gd bike i should say.....Can challange R1s....for RAW power.......:cry:

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/5048/10304130.jpg

"But it ain't about how hard ya hit. It's about how hard you can get hit and keep moving forward. How much you can take and keep moving forward. Now if you know what you're worth then go out and get what you're worth."

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Posted
Originally posted by Ken@Aug 31 2004, 06:33 PM

Whats the torque graph for the serpent full system?

 

and whats the hp n torque graph for twin ??

sorry, i don't have the required data. i copy n paste from the below url

http://www.hardracing.com/03-04%20Bikes/04%20CBR1000RR.htm

 

:thumb:

2B - Yamaha TZM150, Kawasaki KRR ZX150

2A - Honda CBR400RR FireBlade

2 - Honda CBR1000RR FireBlade

3 - Mitsubishi Lancer 1.6(M)(Sports)

 

http://www.marketiva.com/images/banners/ENG_marketiva_468x60_1.gif

Posted
Originally posted by hershey7855@Sep 1 2004, 01:12 AM

juz wanna highlight one issue.....

 

i notice some of e CBR's LED tail light cover is bloated.....

 

any one noe e cause?

 

i noe tat mayb is e bike cover...... but some of them dun cover bike leh.....

 

i noe can exchange for a new light cover

 

:confused:

jialat, the led tail light cover can bloated one meh...

i got cover bike 1 leh...

got 2 check it out...

is it because of the heat dissipated by the undertail pipe? to make it worst if cover bike under bright sunlight, even super hot?

2B - Yamaha TZM150, Kawasaki KRR ZX150

2A - Honda CBR400RR FireBlade

2 - Honda CBR1000RR FireBlade

3 - Mitsubishi Lancer 1.6(M)(Sports)

 

http://www.marketiva.com/images/banners/ENG_marketiva_468x60_1.gif

Posted
Originally posted by afdah@Sep 1 2004, 04:47 AM

jialat, the led tail light cover can bloated one meh...

i got cover bike 1 leh...

got 2 check it out...

is it because of the heat dissipated by the undertail pipe? to make it worst if cover bike under bright sunlight, even super hot?

mine so far so good....i use bike cover also...not bloated/stained by the exhasut

Bikes i've owned:

NSR150SP June 2001 - May 2002

NSR250 PGM IV April 2003 - 07 June 2004

2004 CBR1000RR 160704 - 19 March 2005

RVF NC35 280906 - 191206

Gilera Runner VXR 2006 19/01/07 - 22/07/08

Posted

any comment abt cbr1000 so far???

got wat pro n cons??? i think i will be joinin u all soon... after i get my insurance money 1st

heehee

the seat comparement le??

fuel consumtion???

Posted
Originally posted by Cool79@Sep 1 2004, 12:50 PM

the seat comparement le??

fuel consumtion???

seat compartment very small...but enough for ur tools, documents and a big piece of cloth...

tried SG V Power only manage 14km/l

now trying Shell 98...haha

Bikes i've owned:

NSR150SP June 2001 - May 2002

NSR250 PGM IV April 2003 - 07 June 2004

2004 CBR1000RR 160704 - 19 March 2005

RVF NC35 280906 - 191206

Gilera Runner VXR 2006 19/01/07 - 22/07/08

Posted
Originally posted by hideto09@Sep 1 2004, 01:10 PM

seat compartment very small...but enough for ur tools, documents and a big piece of cloth...

tried SG V Power only manage 14km/l

now trying Shell 98...haha

14 x 18 = 252

so little onli ah...

Posted
Originally posted by hideto09@Sep 1 2004, 01:10 PM

seat compartment very small...but enough for ur tools, documents and a big piece of cloth...

tried SG V Power only manage 14km/l

now trying Shell 98...haha

Same for me on V-Power. Share your Shell 98 findings when you have the result.

Posted
Originally posted by Tashi@Sep 1 2004, 07:40 PM

Same for me on V-Power. Share your Shell 98 findings when you have the result.

sure bro..

Bikes i've owned:

NSR150SP June 2001 - May 2002

NSR250 PGM IV April 2003 - 07 June 2004

2004 CBR1000RR 160704 - 19 March 2005

RVF NC35 280906 - 191206

Gilera Runner VXR 2006 19/01/07 - 22/07/08

Posted

guys...some additional settings to try on ur gauges

I assume no responsibility for it, this is exactly as I read it.

 

Time stop

 

 

In order to stop the time in the display of the CBR1000RR SC57, one

should proceed as follows:

 

 

 

Ignition switch on

 

Keys [ SEL ] and [ RESETS ] press and at least 2 seconds keep long

pressed.

Time begins to flash

 

With the key [ RESET ] one can stop now the hours

 

With the key [ SEL ] one changes to the attitude of the minutes

 

With the key [ RESET ] one can stop now the minutes

 

At the time to store switch ignition off or [ SEL ] and [ RESETS ] at

the same time press

 

The recent time is not to be stored, be waited simply approx. 30 seconds

in the adjusting mode

 

 

TOP

 

 

 

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------

 

Switching lightning stop

 

 

Switching lightning of the CBR1000RR SC57 can be stopped both in the

brightness, the flash frequency and in the activation number of

revolutions in the range 4,000 U/min to 11,650 U/min.

 

 

 

 

Adjust the activation number of revolutions:

 

Key [ SEL ] press and keep pressed, ignition switch on

 

Key [ SEL ] keep pressed, until the initial announcement appears

(the needle of the tachometer indicates the ursprueglichen value)

 

Key [ RESET ] duecken and hereby the desired number of revolutions stop

 

With the key [ SEL ] this attitude terminate and with the attitude of

the flash frequency & brightness continue

 

 

 

Note: Within the range each pressure causes 4,000 U/min to 11,500 U/min

on the key [ RESET ] a jump of 250 U/min, between 11.500 U/min to 11,650

U/min a jump of 150 U/min.

 

 

 

Adjust the flash frequency & brightness:

 

With each pressure on the key [ RESET ] one changes the flash frequency

and brightness after the following sample:

bright - > brightly, means, darkly,

slowly flashing - > brightly, means, darkly,

fast flashing - > brightly, means, darkly

 

With the key [ SEL ] the attitude store

 

by switching the ignition off during the attitude, the new values are

rejected

 

 

TOP

 

 

 

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------

 

Function test steering damper

 

 

Since the electronic steering damper acceleration and speed-dependently

works, a test is normally not possible while stationary. Over

nevertheless the function mode to examine to HONDA specially a

diagnostic mode inserted. One activates these as follows:

 

 

 

Ignition switch off

 

Side stand must be outside

 

1. Course insert

 

Gas grasp in full acceleration position hold

 

Ignition switch on (do not start!)

 

 

 

Now the writing "HESD" flashes for some seconds in the display of the

Tachos.

During this time the steering damper is active. If one jacked up now the

front wheel free moving, one can examine the function mode of the

electronic steering damper by moving the steering wheel.

Bikes i've owned:

NSR150SP June 2001 - May 2002

NSR250 PGM IV April 2003 - 07 June 2004

2004 CBR1000RR 160704 - 19 March 2005

RVF NC35 280906 - 191206

Gilera Runner VXR 2006 19/01/07 - 22/07/08

Posted

guys, i had change to engine ice coolant and after few days of observations, my bike haven open fan for a week of traffic jams while going to school in morning along bukit timah road.

the temperature climb up more slowly.

not to mention that i had installed radiator wire mesh protector which actually increase bike temperature as it conduct heat, if without that, the bike can be cooled better!~

Posted

my mileage is 15.5km per litre on V power.......

1999 - YAMAHA TZR 125

2000 - YAMAHA RX 125

2001 - SUZUKI DR 200

2002 - YAMAHA WR 200

2003 - HONDA CB 400 VTEC I

2004 - HONDA TELEFONICA MOVISTAR CBR 1000 RR4

2005 - SUZUKI GSX 1300RX HAYABUSA

2006 - SUZUKI GSR 600

2007 - HYUNDAI GETZ 1.6 FL

2014 - YAMAHA FZ 6 S1

Posted

My reserve is @ 4L, although on the manual it says 3.5L. The US spec sheet says it's 4L reserve, but mine's an ED model. Some mix up? Ken insists his is 5L.

 

Chilly's highbeam is on the other side.

 

Someone is smoking weed.

 

I got 197km when I hit reserve on JB V-Power (14.07km/l). But I have a pillion everyday.

 

Here's my 12000km service description if anyone is interested.

 

1. Brake System (All fluid replace)

-brake pad condition front and read more than 60%

 

2. Clutch fluid (change)

 

3. Chain adjust, for the 1st time.

- slider condition 90%

 

4. Engine bolt tighten (according to manual)

 

5. Front/rear axle (check and tighten according to manual)

 

6. Front steering bearing (perfect condition)

 

7. Rear tyre (1.8mm left, need to replace for long distance riding)

 

8. Front tyre (3.2mm, still in good condition)

 

9. Engine oil and filter change.

 

10. Engine mixture (little rich)

Posted
Originally posted by Ken@Sep 2 2004, 06:41 PM

guys, i had change to engine ice coolant and after few days of observations, my bike haven open fan for a week of traffic jams while going to school in morning along bukit timah road.

the temperature climb up more slowly.

not to mention that i had installed radiator wire mesh protector which actually increase bike temperature as it conduct heat, if without that, the bike can be cooled better!~

Is Engine Ice of high quality ethylene glycol base? Does it have corrosion protection inhibitors specifically recommended for aluminium engines?

 

Lastly, does it contain harmful silicate inhibitors?

 

Heheh. :sweat:

Posted

sh*t~~

Didn't Check!~

Didn't consider the chemical factor.

u help me check okie.

but since it doesn't spin my fan, i m okie with it.

hehehehe.

so when go pump petrol ??

 

:cheeky:

Posted

You've destroyed your bike. Better scrap it. Your fan not spinnning means it's malfunctioning, due to engine ice. It's causing blockage in the system.

 

Hehe.

 

In other news ...

 

A scant two ounces of any ethylene glycol-type antifreeze can kill a small animal (dog), one teaspoon can be lethal to a cat, and two tablespoons can be hazardous to children resulting in painful internal/intestinal problems possibly leading to coma and even death. Ethylene glycol is also harmful to plant life.

 

More info here.

 

http://www.engineice.cc/faq.html

 

Is this the one you're using? There's an email contact there, can write to them.

 

Probably Sunday will go in for petrol and makan. Stilll have plenty left after Tue.

Posted

OK, I got a reply from BS.

 

Those with warped light cover, PM me your:

 

1. Name (as in IC)

2. Chassis #

3. Contact #

 

Make sure your warranty card is properly updated with chop and signature by authorized dealer.

 

*******************************************************************************

 

*Update on Sept 4th*

 

Ignore above, they are handling on a case by case basis.

Posted

mine will hit ard 3.5L then reserve light on......

 

total mileage is 225km then reserve light will b on.....

 

if includin reserve will go till 275km.....

 

I went down 2 moto world n tok 2 the boss, kenji

 

he say can discount for tank bra if we do mass order 4 it......

 

somemore i their regular customer, can further bargain 4 it.....

 

original price is $165

 

it will take 1 mth 2 be deliver.....

 

any one wanna order?

 

we can arrange a date n visit moto world n take a look at e calalog......

 

so dear fellow CBRs, pls put down ur name n colour of ur bike......

 

1.

1999 - YAMAHA TZR 125

2000 - YAMAHA RX 125

2001 - SUZUKI DR 200

2002 - YAMAHA WR 200

2003 - HONDA CB 400 VTEC I

2004 - HONDA TELEFONICA MOVISTAR CBR 1000 RR4

2005 - SUZUKI GSX 1300RX HAYABUSA

2006 - SUZUKI GSR 600

2007 - HYUNDAI GETZ 1.6 FL

2014 - YAMAHA FZ 6 S1

Posted

Engine Coolant 101

 

Now, being from Engine Ice, I am a bit biased and I admit it. However, most all of the products on the market are excellent products, but each has various uses and applications for them. We produce Engine Ice for specific high intensity and high heat applications. It really is not designed as an "everyday" coolant; it is for racing or high temperature applications. However, it can be used as an everyday coolant with no problem.

 

There are two basic types of coolant/antifreeze, Ethylene Glycol (EG) and Propylene Glycol (PG) and then there are surfactant products such as Water Wetter from Red Line for example. All of the products mentioned are good products, just offering different things.

 

Ethylene Glycol (EG)? This is basically your "Prestone" type of products. Maxima's Coolinol, Pro Honda Coolant and Spectro Coolant are examples of this type of product. It is basically the same as the coolant/antifreeze product you can buy at the auto parts store, but "silicate-free." This is important, don't get the stuff from the auto parts store unless it's silicate free. Most are pre-diluted for easy use; they are diluted with more pure distilled water or deionized water (deionized water is explained below). This is better water than what you can buy at the grocery store.

 

You really shouldn't call an EG-based product a "coolant," an "anti-boil" product would be more accurate. EG is made very cheaply and its primary purpose is to eliminate boil-over and to keep your system from freezing up. That's basically it. It is not designed to actually reduce temperatures. If you are driving a car or a cruiser-type bike that does not have a temperature issue, these are fine products.

 

Water Wetter - It is an additive product. Water Wetter is what is called a "surfactant." What this means is that it reduces the surface tension of the water or in other words, it allows the water/fluid to "rub" closer to the metal allowing it to better draw off heat. Water Wetter works and it is good stuff. However, if you add it to an EG antifreeze product your results are minimal. It will reduce temperatures, but by only a small amount. Added to water, you will see a significant difference in temperature reduction. But it will not raise the boil point of the water nor does it offer any antifreeze protection. So your engine may run a bit cooler, but when it gets hot it will "spit out" the coolant before other products do. That is not good, because now you'll have less coolant in the engine. Using more than the recommended amount (4 capfuls to a quart) is a waste and it will not make any difference, only use their recommended amount.

 

Water alone is not recommended. You do need to add some type of water additive to it. Water alone is corrosive and it does not keep your seals, gaskets, water pump and water pump impeller shaft lubricated enough. Make sure something is added to water, do not run it all by itself.

 

I would not recommend Dex-Cool (the orange stuff). All reports and tests that I have heard of have not been good. It can "gel." It also has a tendency to clog up a motorcycle system. The radiator core and the system itself of a motorcycle are smaller when compared to an auto. I would avoid Dex-Cool and choose any other product before I'd recommend anyone using it.

 

Propylene Glycol (PG)? This is what Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant and Evans Coolant is made of. Evans is 100% PG and has an extremely high boil point of well over 350° F. They recommend you make some mechanical changes to your system, such as a zero p.s.i. cap or a different radiator in order to use it. Their goal is to eliminate boil-over, not to reduce temperatures. At their recommended 100% PG use, you'd have a boil point in excess of 350° F. At 100% PG, it would not be as effective at dissipating heat from your engine as well as it has a higher viscosity. Water is the ultimate coolant. All coolant products are measured against water for its heat dissipation capabilities. The lack of water in the use of Evans greatly reduces its ability to cool your engine. If you're running heavy equipment or an 18- wheel truck, Evans is probably a good product.

 

Engine Ice is a diluted ratio of PG and deionized water. The process of deionizing water eliminates all of the impurities that can do harm to your cooling system. Regardless if you are using tap, bottled, distilled, spring or R/O (reverse osmosis) waters, it can still contain minute particles of iron, magnesium, rust, lime and calcium. Many of these waters also contain chemicals, such as chlorine, fluorides and acids. Want proof? Take two different brands of distilled waters and perform your own taste test. They each taste different don't they? If water were water, why would they be different? It's because of the varying amounts of chemicals and minerals in these waters. These minerals and chemicals are what is the cause of scarring, scaling and mineral build-ups in your cooling system. Many also attribute these minerals and chemicals to water pump seal and gasket failures.

 

Engine Ice was developed and tested in the heat and humidity of Southern Florida. Tests have proven to reduce operating race temperatures by as muchas50oF in some situations. PG is a lubricant and is a surfactant in itself, meaning it has more capability to draw away more heat than EG-based products and even Water Wetter. It is biodegradable and non-toxic. It will not kill your dog, nor will it kill the plant life at your favorite track or trail. It is also legal in AMA, CCS and FUSA road racing.

 

Engine Ice has won over 275 National Championship Titles over the last two and a half years including the 2001 AMA 125 cc West Supercross Championship with Ernesto Fonseca on the Yamaha of Troy YZ250F and in 2002 Chad Reed in the 125 cc West Supercross Championship. You can bet that Yamaha Motor Corporation did extensive testing on Engine Ice prior to putting in into their premier bike in its debut year. It is also used an endorsed by the American Suzuki Amateur Motocross Program. Engine Ice sponsored racer, Darren Luck, won nine (9) CCS class championships in 2002 as well as earned the CCS Florida Expert #1 plate by the largest margin ever. Racers using Engine Ice won seven CCS Race of Champions National Championships at Daytona in 2001 and won an additional eight (8) in 2002

Posted
Originally posted by Tashi@Sep 3 2004, 08:57 PM

Ken, where did you get Engine Ice? I also want to change tomorrow.

Taishi remember me????

http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-snc1/v313/251/70/563403338/n563403338_974923_6695.jpg

 

My present rides:

Honda CBR600RR8 (Black)

Yamaha FZ1N (Blue)

--------------------------------------------------

Posted
Originally posted by Tashi@Sep 3 2004, 08:57 PM

Ken, where did you get Engine Ice? I also want to change tomorrow.

The aticle so long, making me :giddy:

U wanna change it, so i presume its good rite.

Got it at Sporting, make a wire mesh for ur radiator too.

u wont wan a hole in ur radiator like my rvf...

 

my reserve light is on at 13L used with 5L left.

Onc emy reserve lights up at 13L and based on reserve with 5L and did a 4.5L distance and rite on target.

 

The tank bra, dun think will get it, but it definitely look nice on the black CBR1000RR!!

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