[Group] Singapore BAJAJ Team (SBT)

[ConceptFuel]

1 hour ago, adesmond2 said:

nah.. without.. put wrongly.. and you replied wayyy too fast. hahaha...

I ride MT03... not balsar...  

Haha no worries, I reached home already just now that way saw the notification. Ahh Yamaha MT-03, a street bike also. I manage to fine the manual for my pulsar, looks like all I need is a right crankcase gasket to clean the two filter, one is reusable and rarely need washing and one just need cleaning once a while, also I need a new oil cooler as the hose joint is aged

Edited July 11, 2022 by ConceptFuel

[ConceptFuel]

The expansion hose joint for the oil cooler has badly rusted, need to change these also or there is a risk of engine leak out, maybe carbon steel, I see if I can get it replace with a new set of oil cooler for the engine, also the exhaust pipe will take time to soft polish day by day before I go for a ride

[adesmond2]

14 hours ago, ConceptFuel said:

Haha no worries, I reached home already just now that way saw the notification. Ahh Yamaha MT-03, a street bike also. I manage to fine the manual for my pulsar, looks like all I need is a right crankcase gasket to clean the two filter, one is reusable and rarely need washing and one just need cleaning once a while, also I need a new oil cooler as the hose joint is aged

Yes.. a newer street bike.. used to ride sport bikes.. still not use to street bike (after 1 year+).. more "blockage" from wind whenever I ride at expressway.. LOL..

ahhhh.. your bike quite retro sia..

I see the below photo... that's quite a old technology ya?

 

52 minutes ago, ConceptFuel said:

The expansion hose joint for the oil cooler has badly rusted, need to change these also or there is a risk of engine leak out, maybe carbon steel, I see if I can get it replace with a new set of oil cooler for the engine, also the exhaust pipe will take time to soft polish day by day before I go for a ride

 

Just my advise.. if I'm you.. I would go to a workshop that I'm familiar with...  DIY there.. 

you never know what suddenly snap and doesn't work and need their expertise. (any problem that can be resolved with money is not a problem)

especially that clips.. I wonder if it still hold well after removing.. and how you going to remove the remaining coolant that's below? flash it out with water hose?

[ConceptFuel]

1 hour ago, adesmond2 said:

Yes.. a newer street bike.. used to ride sport bikes.. still not use to street bike (after 1 year+).. more "blockage" from wind whenever I ride at expressway.. LOL..

ahhhh.. your bike quite retro sia..

I see the below photo... that's quite a old technology ya?

 

 

Just my advise.. if I'm you.. I would go to a workshop that I'm familiar with...  DIY there.. 

you never know what suddenly snap and doesn't work and need their expertise. (any problem that can be resolved with money is not a problem)

especially that clips.. I wonder if it still hold well after removing.. and how you going to remove the remaining coolant that's below? flash it out with water hose?

No the oil cooler radiator is located at the top the pipes, pipes running down below goes back to the engine casing, I have manage to find the manual and see the reason why they have use oil cooled instead of water cooled. Since the timing is way later than more newer bikes single spark. I have ordered the new whole set of oil cooler kit from the manufacturer for SGD$8 and valve springs and spring retainer for SDG$6.50. previous owner gave me a spare new camshaft which he brought it for SDG$12, I really decided to use this bike until COE ends on 2029.

Edited July 12, 2022 by ConceptFuel

[adesmond2]

7 minutes ago, ConceptFuel said:

No the oil cooler radiator is located at the top the pipes, pipes running down below goes back to the engine casing, I have manage to find the manual and see the reason why they have use oil cooled instead of water cooled. Since the timing is way later than more newer bikes single spark. I have ordered the new whole set of oil cooler kit from the manufacturer for SGD$8 and valve springs and spring retainer for SDG$6.50. previous owner gave me a spare new camshaft which he brought it for SDG$12, I really decided to use this bike until COE ends on 2029.

ehhh.. wait wait.. oil cooled.. you mean engine oil cool??

and.. S$8 for oil cooler kit? Singapore still got sell single digit motorcycle stuff meh?

anyway, yeah.. still got 7 years.. might as well replace everything if the amount really is single digit.. even on my 2B.. my spark plug alone cost me $12 (at best price) original $18...

[ConceptFuel]

Well this is my bike for now after doing dry cleaning for few days before I go ride, might take up to 6 months to recondition things on the bike as I also plan to go up Pahang in January

4 minutes ago, adesmond2 said:

ehhh.. wait wait.. oil cooled.. you mean engine oil cool??

and.. S$8 for oil cooler kit? Singapore still got sell single digit motorcycle stuff meh?

anyway, yeah.. still got 7 years.. might as well replace everything if the amount really is single digit.. even on my 2B.. my spark plug alone cost me $12 (at best price) original $18...

Yes is engine oil cooled, usually oil cooled is engine oil cool by passing by the radiator that is oil instead of water coolant. Yeah you remind me of spark plugs also, I need two of those to order from Australia for my Pulsar, since 200dts-i is twin spark

[adesmond2]

3 minutes ago, ConceptFuel said:

Well this is my bike for now after doing dry cleaning for few days before I go ride, might take up to 6 months to recondition things on the bike as I also plan to go up Pahang in January

Yes is engine oil cooled, usually oil cooled is engine oil cool by passing by the radiator that is oil instead of water coolant. Yeah you remind me of spark plugs also, I need two of those to order from Australia for my Pulsar, since 200dts-i is twin spark

ok la.. looks neat and nice.. I believe you also hands on all the stuff.. LOL..

just remember to wash the carb.. all the dirt usually get struck at the bottom of the carb itself.. and with a bit of hump.. the dirt turn up and dirt the carb and pipes..

ohhhh.. so that's oil coolant and engine oil.. they are separated?

LOL.. no need la.. confirm got similar ones in the market.. 

[ConceptFuel]

3 minutes ago, adesmond2 said:

ok la.. looks neat and nice.. I believe you also hands on all the stuff.. LOL..

just remember to wash the carb.. all the dirt usually get struck at the bottom of the carb itself.. and with a bit of hump.. the dirt turn up and dirt the carb and pipes..

ohhhh.. so that's oil coolant and engine oil.. they are separated?

LOL.. no need la.. confirm got similar ones in the market.. 

No part while the engine oil is in circulation around the engine, part of it goes thru the oil cooler to be cooled in the radiator. And I am surprised the oil pump filter is a fine plastic mesh that is washable and the auxiliary centrifugal filter that just need to be clean by scrap off any particles from the filter chamber, so no oil filter needed to buy. Yeah I agree this one, I better check the carbs soon also if it is dirty, even if a fine filter foam is use on this bike, better be safe and sorry , I think I do it together when the new spark plug arrived from Australia since the carb have to be tune again when using these special spark plugs, thanks for reminding me

Not all, some things are beyond my ability to do like tyre change. Also so many things to read in the manual, so hopefully with my limited skills I can know my new bike better , hope got other Pulsar rider reply

[adesmond2]

2 minutes ago, ConceptFuel said:

No part while the engine oil is in circulation around the engine, part of it goes thru the oil cooler to be cooled in the radiator. And I am surprised the oil pump filter is a fine plastic mesh that is washable and the auxiliary centrifugal filter that just need to be clean by scrap off any particles from the filter chamber, so no oil filter needed to buy. Yeah I agree this one, I better check the carbs soon also if it is dirty, even if a fine filter foam is use on this bike, better be safe and sorry , I think I do it together when the new spark plug arrived from Australia since the carb have to be tune again when using these special spark plugs, thanks for reminding me

ohhhh.. that's interesting... engine oil to be cooled? Is this a old engine reasoning? Need to check with my mech.. see when I'm going down and I'll ask.. LOL..

I believe this concept is a old concept.. just make sure your engine oil got enough.. just in case all flow into radiator and left nothing to protect your gears..

ok la.. slowly do lor.. I believe you still own a car or bike.. this one your 2nd bike right? LOL

[ConceptFuel]

3 minutes ago, adesmond2 said:

ohhhh.. that's interesting... engine oil to be cooled? Is this a old engine reasoning? Need to check with my mech.. see when I'm going down and I'll ask.. LOL..

I believe this concept is a old concept.. just make sure your engine oil got enough.. just in case all flow into radiator and left nothing to protect your gears..

ok la.. slowly do lor.. I believe you still own a car or bike.. this one your 2nd bike right? LOL

No I don't have a car, I just have a current Mini Suzuki AN125 scooter and my just brought 2009 Bajaj Pulsar 200dts-i. Oh there is a sight glass at the right side of the engine crankcase to check the oil level, so I usually check it before I go for a ride. Yeah thats the thing, buying second hand bike need work to rebuild if got unlucky past owner who rode it before , I just hope I can get all these things done by November before My Suzuki AN125 COE expires

[adesmond2]

13 minutes ago, ConceptFuel said:

No I don't have a car, I just have a current Mini Suzuki AN125 scooter and my just brought 2009 Bajaj Pulsar 200dts-i. Oh there is a sight glass at the right side of the engine crankcase to check the oil level, so I usually check it before I go for a ride. Yeah thats the thing, buying second hand bike need work to rebuild if got unlucky past owner who rode it before , I just hope I can get all these things done by November before My Suzuki AN125 COE expires

ok la.. way enough time.. November.. 4 months lei..  

[ConceptFuel]

3 minutes ago, adesmond2 said:

ok la.. way enough time.. November.. 4 months lei..  

Cause I am thinking of renewing my AN125 for my delivery work use, is so reliable and rarely give me problems. The pulsar is actually mainly for my touring use. Is not attractive but it brings me around well doing deliveries .

By the way how is MT-03 for you, still miss sport bike I believe 

Edited July 12, 2022 by ConceptFuel

[ConceptFuel]

After looking at the manufacturer manual and the specs from the frame to the engine, I decided to do some more enhancement on the reliability, efficiency and perfomance upgrade on the bike. Since it still have 7 years to go. Tru the carburetor you mention the main jet is a bit fouled due to slightly long storage of the bike since petrol tends to gum up after some period of time. This bike belongs to 2009 era and need some catching up to do to todays bike standard. First thing I will have to do is to get up to Euro 4 from the bike Euro 2 emissions without the need or little catalytic converter, reducing the bike weight by 10-14% from the factory spec weight, increase the engine torque by 18-20% while still allowing the engine to Run on RON 92 gasoline (petrol) and I want to change the bike colour to a simple red colour. I hope there are still 200dtsi riders around that I can meet up with soon.

I have brought the 2nd Bajaj Pulsar 200dtsi for work use (will leave it majority stock) and the current one is for me to work on upgrades and also travel for Malaysia country roads. 

[adesmond2]

10 hours ago, ConceptFuel said:

After looking at the manufacturer manual and the specs from the frame to the engine, I decided to do some more enhancement on the reliability, efficiency and perfomance upgrade on the bike. Since it still have 7 years to go. Tru the carburetor you mention the main jet is a bit fouled due to slightly long storage of the bike since petrol tends to gum up after some period of time. This bike belongs to 2009 era and need some catching up to do to todays bike standard. First thing I will have to do is to get up to Euro 4 from the bike Euro 2 emissions without the need or little catalytic converter, reducing the bike weight by 10-14% from the factory spec weight, increase the engine torque by 18-20% while still allowing the engine to Run on RON 92 gasoline (petrol) and I want to change the bike colour to a simple red colour. I hope there are still 200dtsi riders around that I can meet up with soon.

I have brought the 2nd Bajaj Pulsar 200dtsi for work use (will leave it majority stock) and the current one is for me to work on upgrades and also travel for Malaysia country roads. 

hmmm.. 

1) Carb - check what's the main different for Euro 4 and Euro 2 first before you change.. if the jets are smaller.. DUN CHANGE... cause jets smaller = risk of piston jam..

2) Reducing weight = ok.. 

3) Engine engine torque? What stuff you intend to change? (Very subjective and need to check)

4) For catalytic - can ignore until they officially wan everyone to be at least euro 3 or higher..

[ConceptFuel]

8 hours ago, adesmond2 said:

hmmm.. 

1) Carb - check what's the main different for Euro 4 and Euro 2 first before you change.. if the jets are smaller.. DUN CHANGE... cause jets smaller = risk of piston jam..

2) Reducing weight = ok.. 

3) Engine engine torque? What stuff you intend to change? (Very subjective and need to check)

4) For catalytic - can ignore until they officially wan everyone to be at least euro 3 or higher..

1) I might only change to pilot jet to 15 from 17.5 as it is already at 1.9 turns open. The 2 taper less silver based spark plugs will arrived in a week, by then I can retard the engine timing by 1° to 9° BTDC for more complete combustion without scarificing heat buildup and also increasing engine thermal efficiency, thus more torque. New oil cooler will arrived in 3 weeks.

2) Too much steel on the bike, but understandable due to bike selling price from the manufacturer, will change some components to aluminum 7075, Titanium 6A4V (Grade 5) and Elektron 45 alloys (Magnesium Alloy). Hopefully 12-15 kilos in total weight loss. Some engine parts also will have to work on for weight reduction and increase torque output.

3) Combustion Speed and engine timing, since my AN125 is already running on dual fuel mode. I will need to order again another AFU (Auxiliary Fuel Unit) for my Pulsar before I have to change the ignition timing further after installation. A one step cooler spark plug might not be needed if the engine oil temperature is on the low limit range.

4) I agree with you, only needed if the emissions can't be reached, added weight.

[adesmond2]

4 hours ago, ConceptFuel said:

1) I might only change to pilot jet to 15 from 17.5 as it is already at 1.9 turns open. The 2 taper less silver based spark plugs will arrived in a week, by then I can retard the engine timing by 1° to 9° BTDC for more complete combustion without scarificing heat buildup and also increasing engine thermal efficiency, thus more torque. New oil cooler will arrived in 3 weeks.

2) Too much steel on the bike, but understandable due to bike selling price from the manufacturer, will change some components to aluminum 7075, Titanium 6A4V (Grade 5) and Elektron 45 alloys (Magnesium Alloy). Hopefully 12-15 kilos in total weight loss. Some engine parts also will have to work on for weight reduction and increase torque output.

3) Combustion Speed and engine timing, since my AN125 is already running on dual fuel mode. I will need to order again another AFU (Auxiliary Fuel Unit) for my Pulsar before I have to change the ignition timing further after installation. A one step cooler spark plug might not be needed if the engine oil temperature is on the low limit range.

4) I agree with you, only needed if the emissions can't be reached, added weight.

all seems alright except point 2.. 

if point 2 consist of engine parts.. better check if the new parts can withstand the "old" beatings from your engine or not.. if not wear and tear might happen faster..

[ConceptFuel]

14 hours ago, adesmond2 said:

all seems alright except point 2.. 

if point 2 consist of engine parts.. better check if the new parts can withstand the "old" beatings from your engine or not.. if not wear and tear might happen faster..

The engine is still in good condition, only that run off a bit is the exhaust valve clearance when I have already adjusted by a valve nut adjuster to correct back the roller rocker stem to valve rod. I want to reduce the mass of the valve train system do that the engine stress can be reduce alot and lesser weight can be free up for more to torque output, engine noise can also be reduce and timing chain life can be further extended.

I also have change the engine oil when I just took out the bike from the shop of the engine with 2ml ceramic compound and let it run for another 10,000km till the next oil change and clean those oil pump filter and the centrifugal filter while waiting for the new oil cooler to arrived. Is currently at 5745km already.

The exhaust start to shine again after soft hot polish after every ride, it will take another around 30 days for that stainless steel to shine again.

Edited July 21, 2022 by ConceptFuel

[adesmond2]

On 7/21/2022 at 10:15 PM, ConceptFuel said:

The engine is still in good condition, only that run off a bit is the exhaust valve clearance when I have already adjusted by a valve nut adjuster to correct back the roller rocker stem to valve rod. I want to reduce the mass of the valve train system do that the engine stress can be reduce alot and lesser weight can be free up for more to torque output, engine noise can also be reduce and timing chain life can be further extended.

I also have change the engine oil when I just took out the bike from the shop of the engine with 2ml ceramic compound and let it run for another 10,000km till the next oil change and clean those oil pump filter and the centrifugal filter while waiting for the new oil cooler to arrived. Is currently at 5745km already.

The exhaust start to shine again after soft hot polish after every ride, it will take another around 30 days for that stainless steel to shine again.

slowly slowly do..

then show us before and after.. haha

[ConceptFuel]

2 hours ago, adesmond2 said:

slowly slowly do..

then show us before and after.. haha

Only the Auxiliary Fuel Unit will not be shared for political reasons and conflict of interest. But surely I can share the rest for what the bike progression made as days pass

[ConceptFuel]

1 minute ago, ConceptFuel said:

Only the Auxiliary Fuel Unit will not be shared for political reasons and conflict of interest. But surely I can share the rest for what the bike progression made as days pass

So far I have scrap off the black pain from the horn which the shop typically spray it black, to make it back to stock. And the exhaust pipe is starting to shine again after doing a slow soft hot polish , a bit tiring but kinda use to it, follow by engine external cleaning to let it shine again, frame has been also been clean, things are getting to shine again like new 

[adesmond2]

4 minutes ago, ConceptFuel said:

So far I have scrap off the black pain from the horn which the shop typically spray it black, to make it back to stock. And the exhaust pipe is starting to shine again after doing a slow soft hot polish , a bit tiring but kinda use to it, follow by engine external cleaning to let it shine again, frame has been also been clean, things are getting to shine again like new 

nice nice.. looks like alot of hard work..  

for me.. just repspray black again.. hahahahah 

[ConceptFuel]

1 minute ago, adesmond2 said:

nice nice.. looks like alot of hard work..  

for me.. just repspray black again.. hahahahah 

You mean the exhaust or the horns?

[adesmond2]

7 minutes ago, ConceptFuel said:

You mean the exhaust or the horns?

all.. hahaha.. I just spray black wherever I see.. hahahahahaha

[ConceptFuel]

30 minutes ago, adesmond2 said:

all.. hahaha.. I just spray black wherever I see.. hahahahahaha

Is your liking of everything, but I like some part to shine also detailing on the bike, of course it need extra care of. Oh yea I be heading down to workshop at Bukit Merah tomorrow to change the front tyre, the one shop provide is a undersize 90/80-17 Bridgestone BT-39 tyre. I need to change it to 100/80-17 Bridgestone BT-39 tyres before can shorten the bike wheelbase by 20mm to 1330mm. This also will correct the speedometer accuracy to the actual speed matching the expressway signboards kilo post. If not KM/L will also will be not that actual.

Edited July 25, 2022 by ConceptFuel
Missing sentence

[ConceptFuel]

Alright since things are still on planning and awaiting some renewal parts arrival, I have done a small weight reduction, reliability and also some neat representative look on the bike. The day time picture is the original daytime of original signal light which I have replace it with a night time picture signal light. Is slightly lighter with 30grams reduction, then old signal light also tend to shake due to aged rubber mount, and also making things at the rear look neat without hinder in safety aspect with laws also. I decided to still stick to classic conventional filament signal light as to not give out too sharp light output to other road users while it still visible to other road users eyes. And yes to me of course, it looks better as a bonus.