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Front tyres have been changed from  Bridgestone Battalax BT39 90/80-17 to a mild size of Battalax BT39SS 100/80-17 to correct the rake angle of the bike with picture before on top and after at the bottom. This also allow more front wind to flow through the oil coolers increasing cooling efficiency of the coolers load for the engine when high speed cruise is needed. Until the new fatter fork arrives with a Billet 7075 Aluminum top triple clamp being CNC. I will then change to a Bridgestone Batallax BT-39SS 100/90-17 front tyres and a linger range play swingarm to compensate again for the rake angle of the bike.

IMG_20220726_133920.jpg

IMG_20220726_180533.jpg

Edited by ConceptFuel
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Discovered when I took the the bike out from the shop, the handlebar was also not original. As it was fitted to a higher angle Pulsar 150 and 180 handlebar ones, I change it to the lower angle of the Pulsar 200 handlebar, which is also slightly wider by 2cm. Old one is on top while as usual new is below. Sorry I forget to remove the mount to notice the difference more easily 🤦🏻‍♂️

IMG_20220729_164216.jpg

IMG-20220729-WA0016.jpeg

Lastly for now some small touches, the front brake hose guider hold at the fork was missing and keep rubbing the front fender, I just decided to install the original mount but with different grade screw and washer instead of stock mild steel screw and washer which tend to rush under weather. Stainless Steel 318L with polish copper would be nice.

IMG-20220729-WA0019.jpeg

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11 hours ago, ConceptFuel said:

Alright since things are still on planning and awaiting some renewal parts arrival, I have done a small weight reduction, reliability and also some neat representative look on the bike. The day time picture is the original daytime of original signal light which I have replace it with a night time picture signal light. Is slightly lighter with 30grams reduction, then old signal light also tend to shake due to aged rubber mount, and also making things at the rear look neat without hinder in safety aspect with laws also. I decided to still stick to classic conventional filament signal light as to not give out too sharp light output to other road users while it still visible to other road users eyes. And yes to me of course, it looks better as a bonus.

IMG_20220802_193510.jpg

IMG_20220802_193617.jpg

 

11 hours ago, ConceptFuel said:

Front tyres have been changed from  Bridgestone Battalax BT39 90/80-17 to a mild size of Battalax BT39SS 100/80-17 to correct the rake angle of the bike with picture before on top and after at the bottom. This also allow more front wind to flow through the oil coolers increasing cooling efficiency of the coolers load for the engine when high speed cruise is needed. Until the new fatter fork arrives with a Billet 7075 Aluminum top triple clamp being CNC. I will then change to a Bridgestone Batallax BT-39SS 100/90-17 front tyres and a linger range play swingarm to compensate again for the rake angle of the bike.

IMG_20220726_133920.jpg

IMG_20220726_180533.jpg

 

11 hours ago, ConceptFuel said:

Discovered when I took the the bike out from the shop, the handlebar was also not original. As it was fitted to a higher angle Pulsar 150 and 180 handlebar ones, I change it to the lower angle of the Pulsar 200 handlebar, which is also slightly wider by 2cm. Old one is on top while as usual new is below. Sorry I forget to remove the mount to notice the difference more easily 🤦🏻‍♂️

IMG_20220729_164216.jpg

IMG-20220729-WA0016.jpeg

Lastly for now some small touches, the front brake hose guider hold at the fork was missing and keep rubbing the front fender, I just decided to install the original mount but with different grade screw and washer instead of stock mild steel screw and washer which tend to rush under weather. Stainless Steel 318L with polish copper would be nice.

IMG-20220729-WA0019.jpeg

nice work! 👍 

definitely a sense of achievement after all is done.. even from 0 to now also should be feeling good. :) 

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Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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On 8/3/2022 at 7:26 AM, adesmond2 said:

 

 

nice work! 👍 

definitely a sense of achievement after all is done.. even from 0 to now also should be feeling good. :) 

I agree, most rider will love that 🙂👍🏼

8 hours ago, Puritan3t90 said:

There will be a series of touring/long or short trip outside singapore.

Well I will be going back to my hometown and Jerantut this January, but the bike will have to do some work first. This year despite with customs open I won't be leaving Singapore. But looking forward to go for any future trips after this January onwards. But I am just riding a Pulsar 200dtsi, some ups and downs

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With the new silver based spark plug with taperless tip has arrived. Is time to lean down the pilot jet a bit further to 1.75 threshold limit opening. To avoid from piston back pressuring. The engine torque has improve significantly but the ignition timing still have to be retarded by 1° at the sensor which I can only do some where in two to three weeks time. To this date I still avoid any Platinum and Iridium spark plug for engine temperature safeguarding and electrical consumption purpose which I can utilize it for energy recovery system. As combustion speed increase, engine and exhaust noise energy has also reduce which has been converted more to kinetic energy to the rear wheel.

IMG_20220807_013050.jpg

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Follow up on weight reduction. For now I just focus on the rear part of the bike where also the chain has to be changed. I just stay with the same final drive ratio but with weight reduction of 600 grams. Converting from 14T/41T 520 pitch to a quieter and lighter drive 15T/38T 428 pitch chains. The sprocket numbers might be suppose to be slightly longer gear but also have to consider the diameter of the sprocket where the chains going around it. Total bike weight loss so far have reach 4.25Kg. Down to 141Kg wet weight.

IMG_20220812_133658.jpg

Screenshot_20220812_183231.jpg

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7 minutes ago, DakDak said:

Anyone has had any issue whereby the gear shifter feels very loose or easy to change gear without resistance? Any solutions to this?

Very easy gear change is a good desirable situation that alot would like. Signs of good and precise gearbox design. A slight movable tolerance before gear change is normal. If your bike seasoned bike that has gone for long mileage, signs that the gearbox is well shaped and run in greatly. Depends also on what kind of bike you are riding and also the gear shift external shaft is set to longer travel or shorter travel which you can adjust at certain bike models.

Edited by ConceptFuel
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2 minutes ago, ConceptFuel said:

Very easy gear change is a good desirable situation that alot would like. Signs of good and precise gearbox design. A slight movable tolerance before gear change is normal. If your bike seasoned bike that has gone for long mileage, signs that the gearbox is well shaped and run in greatly.

Sort of feel its more "loose" per say. Sometimes cant tell if I already changed gear when riding as well. 

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5 minutes ago, DakDak said:

Sort of feel its more "loose" per say. Sometimes cant tell if I already changed gear when riding as well. 

Try and see if your bike have a gear lever shaft running along the gear shift lever where you usually kick up and down to shift gear. It might be set too long, it is adjustable for some bike model to suit to your gear change lever movement. Kind of like sensitivity settings.

Screenshot_20220813_151807.jpg

Edited by ConceptFuel
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On 8/13/2022 at 2:47 PM, ConceptFuel said:

What Singapore Puritan?

that's a forum bot.. LOL.. I already block him..

 

On 8/13/2022 at 3:17 PM, DakDak said:

Sort of feel its more "loose" per say. Sometimes cant tell if I already changed gear when riding as well. 

I believe could be some screws loose? Or clutch plates worn off..

 

On 8/13/2022 at 3:22 PM, ConceptFuel said:

Try and see if your bike have a gear lever shaft running along the gear shift lever where you usually kick up and down to shift gear. It might be set too long, it is adjustable for some bike model to suit to your gear change lever movement. Kind of like sensitivity settings.

Screenshot_20220813_151807.jpg

yeah.. check on that screw and all and see if anything loose.. if not, most likely clutch plates..

  • Like 1

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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