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1 minute ago, adesmond2 said:

 

ahhhhh.. now I understand... that means if we do grounding = not so good since most electricity went back to the battery causing too much electricity?

I almost had most stuff on my bike.. camera and etc.. but I realised my 2B handled that heat easily.. but for 2A.. the heat seems to be excessive.. but you could be correct.. let me check out the current and all that.. :)

Alright here goes, the stator produce electricity to the rectifier to convert A.C to D.C and sends it to the battery. When the battery is full charged while you ride it, the voltage will still continue to go up as the stator is running all the time. This is where the regulator in the rectifier will convert any excess voltage and convert it into heat which is attach to the bike frame. When the voltage drop again it will stop awhile to let the bike system voltage go up again ranging from 13.5 to 14.5 volts depending on the manufacturer settings. Most will use voltmeter and still don't understand what is really going on running in the charging system. Simple way to check actually is to just short touch the rectifier surface to determine how much excess current you bike still have. Grounding wise, I dont know why many will still put grounding wires to many parts of the bike. As it also increase bike weight and also mess up the wiring system. If doubt just upgrade a rectifier grounding wire to a slightly ticker ones to protect the stater coil wire from being burned and blacken. 

Secondly, bigger bike runs on higher current amperes but with still the same voltage hovering at around 12 volts +/-. Due to stronger starter motor for start ups, higher capacity fuel injection pumps which need more electrical energy than a smaller bikes or even simpler carbureted bikes like mine. Better still some riders even change their halogen bulbs to a LED's one hoping that it will ensure the battery is properly charged, saves petrol and even true on this one, brighter. But not realizing it will only make the rectifier run hotter due to reduce electrical consumption and more heat is being produced just to maintain the voltage in the system. Until to a day the excessive heat damage the rectifier node gates causing it to fail and unable to charge the battery. End up, "I change to LED but battery just died and not charging, must be a poor quality rectifier". Workshop will just be happy charge you and replace it and hope you come back again, the cycle continues......

My pulsar rectifier still work for 13 years now without fails and hopefully continue to work for another 7 years to come till COE ends. Is the matter of energy balance to understand will make system runs longer and realible 🙂👍🏼

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59 minutes ago, ConceptFuel said:

Alright here goes, the stator produce electricity to the rectifier to convert A.C to D.C and sends it to the battery. When the battery is full charged while you ride it, the voltage will still continue to go up as the stator is running all the time. This is where the regulator in the rectifier will convert any excess voltage and convert it into heat which is attach to the bike frame. When the voltage drop again it will stop awhile to let the bike system voltage go up again ranging from 13.5 to 14.5 volts depending on the manufacturer settings. Most will use voltmeter and still don't understand what is really going on running in the charging system. Simple way to check actually is to just short touch the rectifier surface to determine how much excess current you bike still have. Grounding wise, I dont know why many will still put grounding wires to many parts of the bike. As it also increase bike weight and also mess up the wiring system. If doubt just upgrade a rectifier grounding wire to a slightly ticker ones to protect the stater coil wire from being burned and blacken. 

Secondly, bigger bike runs on higher current amperes but with still the same voltage hovering at around 12 volts +/-. Due to stronger starter motor for start ups, higher capacity fuel injection pumps which need more electrical energy than a smaller bikes or even simpler carbureted bikes like mine. Better still some riders even change their halogen bulbs to a LED's one hoping that it will ensure the battery is properly charged, saves petrol and even true on this one, brighter. But not realizing it will only make the rectifier run hotter due to reduce electrical consumption and more heat is being produced just to maintain the voltage in the system. Until to a day the excessive heat damage the rectifier node gates causing it to fail and unable to charge the battery. End up, "I change to LED but battery just died and not charging, must be a poor quality rectifier". Workshop will just be happy charge you and replace it and hope you come back again, the cycle continues......

My pulsar rectifier still work for 13 years now without fails and hopefully continue to work for another 7 years to come till COE ends. Is the matter of energy balance to understand will make system runs longer and realible 🙂👍🏼

ok.. maybe that's why.. hahaha.. but on my previous 2B bike.. even I change all to led.. rectifier still works alright after 10 years.. hahahaha..

only on this newer 2A bike.. lets see how long can my rectifier last.. headlight definitely still remember as halogen.. only the rest change to led like my previous bike.. but again.. the rectifier is also at a different location..

 

My previous bike is on top of the engine, now Yamaha, at my seat.. doesn't make sense ya? hahahaha

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Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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4 hours ago, adesmond2 said:

ok.. maybe that's why.. hahaha.. but on my previous 2B bike.. even I change all to led.. rectifier still works alright after 10 years.. hahahaha..

only on this newer 2A bike.. lets see how long can my rectifier last.. headlight definitely still remember as halogen.. only the rest change to led like my previous bike.. but again.. the rectifier is also at a different location..

 

My previous bike is on top of the engine, now Yamaha, at my seat.. doesn't make sense ya? hahahaha

If it is still within the tolerance heat range, it will work fine, but if it gets too hot, high chances it will fail to operate. If wiring allows try also shift to a spot where wind can blow it when riding but also protected enough from rain. Bike engineers have their mind of their own. Is not much air to go through but if well attach to the bike frame, why not, as long the heat transfer rate is good, then it should be ok. Even my pulsar rectifier is below the rear pillion seat but the wind is blowing into it too via side fairing duct.

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On 8/19/2022 at 3:32 PM, adesmond2 said:

ok.. maybe that's why.. hahaha.. but on my previous 2B bike.. even I change all to led.. rectifier still works alright after 10 years.. hahahaha..

only on this newer 2A bike.. lets see how long can my rectifier last.. headlight definitely still remember as halogen.. only the rest change to led like my previous bike.. but again.. the rectifier is also at a different location..

 

My previous bike is on top of the engine, now Yamaha, at my seat.. doesn't make sense ya? hahahaha

Next step, distance correction and confirming mileage improvement. Doing rough calculation, despite upgrading to bigger diameter tyres for actual distance reading on speedometer and front stability. Confirming fuel saving is at 13% over the stock since first day I buy the bike and also from the factory spec claimed mileage. Actual Bajaj pulsar 200dtsi with stock setting if using a original size tyre 90/90-17 will usually get a actual 38km/l when calibrated on real distance based on a expressway KM mark.

Trying to go beyond 20% increase in fuel efficiency from the baseline mileage. With the auxiliary fuel going online and a pilot jet setting set at 1.5 turns upon. The fuel spray will not be as good giving a slightly sluggish pick up and poor burn pattern. Second picture will be a general idea on a smaller jet but yet giving a better atomization of fuel by the means of air:fuel ratio mixture leaving the pilot jet. thus the screw turn can be back open to roughly 2-4.5 turns idle mixture to 20% throttle opening. Second picture. Taking advantage of also smaller jet due to auxiliary fuel flow is going into the engine. For now ordered the geniune Mikuni pilot jet of 15 and 17.5 ( same stock Pulsar 200). Before further work can be done.

IMG_20220823_092218.jpg

IMG_20220823_091048.jpg

Edited by ConceptFuel
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Spare carb in place, inspecting of air jet, pilot jet and main jet. With size number recorded and types recognized, waiting time for shipment is the one alot of use never like, "when going to arrived".

Carburetor can be exceeding a 100 years of technology in the market. But with proper air box size, correct jetting size and design, proper large area air filters can still provide the engine with good feed of power and response. Until one day when the engine is equip with a same wight piston but with a thinner and a gapless piston rings system. The main jet and the jet needle position need to be revised again for proper fuel dosage into the engine 

IMG_20220823_080840.jpg

IMG_20220823_081103.jpg

IMG_20220823_081654.jpg

IMG_20220823_081722.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Following up from the past pilot jet received from Australia. Time to swap the jets. Swapping of smaller pilot jet for better fuel atomisation with suppliment auxiliary fuel entering the intake port requires certain fuel dosage rate and also atomizing air adjustment to ensure things are kept at equilibrium as possible on ratio intermix. 

Even the factory fitted pilot jet is not a Geniune Mikuni jet making fuel atomization improper just by inspecting the jet throat pattern. With new pilot jet install, setting it back for the pilot jet mixture screw from 1.5 to 3 turns open before going out for ride and set it again from bus stop to bus stop at night. Old jet is left and new jet is right.

Given the supplement fuel produce from the onboard Auxiliary Fuel Unit is also going in via the carb throat, things have to recalibrated again to avoid either increase fuel consumption or worst, con-rod (connecting rod) failure usually bend due to link between ignition timing and air fuel composition. With things setup according to rough calculation and also practical senses like exhaust smell, engine sound and fuel tank touch.

IMG_20220829_185406.thumb.jpg.cd208eb9f8e512870e1e717d0d8fead6.jpgLooking forward to test ride it on a free day around Singapore. Thankfully the carb is still virtually clean due to proper foam air filter is used, external factory fitted fuel filter is clean occasionally and lastly engine oil temperature is maintain to minimize oil vaporization back into the air box and eventually the the carb throat via the crankcase breather line.

As usual pictures are arranged in time order from top to bottom.

IMG_20220829_175515.jpg

IMG_20220829_175547.jpg

IMG_20220829_175556.jpg

IMG_20220829_182248.jpg

IMG_20220829_185440.jpg

IMG_20220829_185716.jpg

IMG_20220829_193338.jpg

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On 8/23/2022 at 9:58 AM, ConceptFuel said:

Spare carb in place, inspecting of air jet, pilot jet and main jet. With size number recorded and types recognized, waiting time for shipment is the one alot of use never like, "when going to arrived".

Carburetor can be exceeding a 100 years of technology in the market. But with proper air box size, correct jetting size and design, proper large area air filters can still provide the engine with good feed of power and response. Until one day when the engine is equip with a same wight piston but with a thinner and a gapless piston rings system. The main jet and the jet needle position need to be revised again for proper fuel dosage into the engine 

IMG_20220823_080840.jpg

IMG_20220823_081103.jpg

IMG_20220823_081654.jpg

IMG_20220823_081722.jpg

 

19 minutes ago, ConceptFuel said:

Following up from the past pilot jet received from Australia. Time to swap the jets. Swapping of smaller pilot jet for better fuel atomisation with suppliment auxiliary fuel entering the intake port requires certain fuel dosage rate and also atomizing air adjustment to ensure things are kept at equilibrium as possible on ratio intermix. 

Even the factory fitted pilot jet is not a Geniune Mikuni jet making fuel atomization improper just by inspecting the jet throat pattern. With new pilot jet install, setting it back for the pilot jet mixture screw from 1.5 to 3 turns open before going out for ride and set it again from bus stop to bus stop at night. Old jet is left and new jet is right.

Given the supplement fuel produce from the onboard Auxiliary Fuel Unit is also going in via the carb throat, things have to recalibrated again to avoid either increase fuel consumption or worst, con-rod (connecting rod) failure usually bend due to link between ignition timing and air fuel composition. With things setup according to rough calculation and also practical senses like exhaust smell, engine sound and fuel tank touch.

IMG_20220829_185406.thumb.jpg.cd208eb9f8e512870e1e717d0d8fead6.jpgLooking forward to test ride it on a free day around Singapore. Thankfully the carb is still virtually clean due to proper foam air filter is used, external factory fitted fuel filter is clean occasionally and lastly engine oil temperature is maintain to minimize oil vaporization back into the air box and eventually the the carb throat via the crankcase breather line.

As usual pictures are arranged in time order from top to bottom.

IMG_20220829_175515.jpg

IMG_20220829_175547.jpg

IMG_20220829_175556.jpg

IMG_20220829_182248.jpg

IMG_20220829_185440.jpg

IMG_20220829_185716.jpg

IMG_20220829_193338.jpg

actually sometimes smaller might not be better.. I previously was using a bigger fuel/air jets (not stock) for my KRR.. then my FC can go as high as 38km/L compared to stock 25km/L.. 

I believe it's the overall settings that makes a diff..

 

but again.. previously I service my block every year.. so it's slightly different now.. haha... 

 

WAIT WAIT... you didn't close the carb before installing it back? Later the float might get damage....

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Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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5 minutes ago, adesmond2 said:

 

actually sometimes smaller might not be better.. I previously was using a bigger fuel/air jets (not stock) for my KRR.. then my FC can go as high as 38km/L compared to stock 25km/L.. 

I believe it's the overall settings that makes a diff..

 

but again.. previously I service my block every year.. so it's slightly different now.. haha... 

 

WAIT WAIT... you didn't close the carb before installing it back? Later the float might get damage....

I agree on your perspective point of view, but looking at the stock pilot jet, is poorly design and finishing at its throat, making fuel atomization poor, thus changing to a same size is wise to do. But also you have to remember adding external fuel source into the engine i take calls for fuel dosage calibration, remember when I told you that I installed a onboard Auxiliary Fuel system that is going into the engine that burns faster than gasoline (petrol)?

Thats one of the reason the jet have to be reduce thus also getting a better fuel atomization at the carb throat before going into the engine for a more through combustion than a sluggish fuel atomization entering the engine take making some fuel unburn (wastage) and going out to the exhaust as carbon monoxide and unburned hydrocarbon.

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1 hour ago, ConceptFuel said:

I agree on your perspective point of view, but looking at the stock pilot jet, is poorly design and finishing at its throat, making fuel atomization poor, thus changing to a same size is wise to do. But also you have to remember adding external fuel source into the engine i take calls for fuel dosage calibration, remember when I told you that I installed a onboard Auxiliary Fuel system that is going into the engine that burns faster than gasoline (petrol)?

Thats one of the reason the jet have to be reduce thus also getting a better fuel atomization at the carb throat before going into the engine for a more through combustion than a sluggish fuel atomization entering the engine take making some fuel unburn (wastage) and going out to the exhaust as carbon monoxide and unburned hydrocarbon.

got you.. indeed.. previously on my bike, even thru I got better FC but my exhaust seems to be always dirty.. 😂

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Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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15 hours ago, adesmond2 said:

got you.. indeed.. previously on my bike, even thru I got better FC but my exhaust seems to be always dirty.. 😂

It was wet I believe at the exhaust tip? Was your KR150 on injector 2T dosage or premix 2T? Haha of course I did put back the carb bowl, or I will end up with a major gasoline spill the moment I switch the fuel back to reserve position, in the meantime, the pulsar engine has gone way quiet about 45% quieter than stock, running super stealth when cruise on expressway on 5th gear, 3750rpm at 55km/h and decent engine noise of 25% quieter on 5th gear, 5000rpm at 70km/h. Still have to monitor on onboard external fuel supply level and estimate flow ratio before I can decide on engine timing retardation by another 0.5° to further improve on thermal efficiency. My first bike was also Kawasaki KR150ZX back those days.

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On 9/3/2022 at 7:48 AM, ConceptFuel said:

It was wet I believe at the exhaust tip? Was your KR150 on injector 2T dosage or premix 2T? Haha of course I did put back the carb bowl, or I will end up with a major gasoline spill the moment I switch the fuel back to reserve position, in the meantime, the pulsar engine has gone way quiet about 45% quieter than stock, running super stealth when cruise on expressway on 5th gear, 3750rpm at 55km/h and decent engine noise of 25% quieter on 5th gear, 5000rpm at 70km/h. Still have to monitor on onboard external fuel supply level and estimate flow ratio before I can decide on engine timing retardation by another 0.5° to further improve on thermal efficiency. My first bike was also Kawasaki KR150ZX back those days.

hahahhaha.. exhaust tip was never dry.. due to 2T and petrol mixture..

2T pump working.. so I've set to the lowest setting possible.. premix whenever I know I'm going to go above 150.. haha.. or redline.. 

stealth for bike is not a good thing.. quiet engine is good cuz your engine definitely sounds and feels better.. but pulsar is not on the noisy side as well.. haha.. 

👍 yeah.. I think I saw your nick  before? 

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Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 9/5/2022 at 7:55 AM, adesmond2 said:

hahahhaha.. exhaust tip was never dry.. due to 2T and petrol mixture..

2T pump working.. so I've set to the lowest setting possible.. premix whenever I know I'm going to go above 150.. haha.. or redline.. 

stealth for bike is not a good thing.. quiet engine is good cuz your engine definitely sounds and feels better.. but pulsar is not on the noisy side as well.. haha.. 

👍 yeah.. I think I saw your nick  before? 

You saw my nick before? Maybe a look alike or just coincidence somewhere the name is same. Last time KR150 I rode was just a slight tune on the carburetor also on the air settings, making the mixture just about right to lubricate the engine internal while still burn off the 2T off in the combustion chamber to maintain the exhaust dry, once awhile since the engine is equip with power valve, have to rev it high three to four times a week just to ensure the valve is not sticking when you need it.

9 minutes ago, RajaKV said:

how much mileage are you guys getting in Pulsar NS 200?

9 minutes ago, RajaKV said:

What I remembered from a group of Pulsarians Singapore they mention with a average between 34-38km/l. Varies also between the earlier carburetor model and the later fuel injection model.

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40 minutes ago, RajaKV said:

i kind of feel like my bike is giving me around 20+ only.. 

- How old is your bike?

- How much mileage have you done with your bike on the odometer?

- Did you buy brand new or second hand?

- You last bike recent maintenance?

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I bought a second hand bike and its 5 years old. It has run abt 55k when I purchased. Have been using it for couple of months. 
 

have done one round of full service and will be doing a normal check tomorrow. 

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3 hours ago, RajaKV said:

I bought a second hand bike and its 5 years old. It has run abt 55k when I purchased. Have been using it for couple of months. 
 

have done one round of full service and will be doing a normal check tomorrow. 

Simple things can cause the range of the bike to drop, this is what I can suggest -

1) Check tire pressure (cold), ensure it is at operating range. Lower tyre pressure will cause lower range but at expense of higher road grip.

2) Tyre surface worn, if you usually ride on straights like expressways mostly, the centre side of the tyre might be flatten a bit on the surface due to wear and tear creating more tyre contact patch for grip at a expense of shorter fuel range.

3) Air filter, it might be dirty causing less air going into the engine causing power loss making rider have to throttle harder just for same speed. This cause higher fuel consumption.

4) Transmission Chain condition, if it is badly worn, power loss from the engine to the rear wheel can be as much to 10-15% from just 3-5% when it is new.

5) Engine oil condition and type of engine oil use. Assuming you are using the right type of engine oil, the life of the engine oil might be towards it's end of life and due for oil change, or there might be low engine oil level in your engine.

6) Spark plugs, as you have use your bike for quite awhile now, spark plug might need to be inspected or even change after the running cycle of the engine due to wear and tear of electrodes of the plugs.

7) Engine intake and exhaust valve clearance, might be a bit off, which usually you can hear a "tik tik tik" sound located at the engine block head even when it is already on operating temperature. Valve clearance adjustment might need to be adjust by the mech.

Last thing I can say and hopefully not, the worst case scenario, your engine oil level keep dropping slowly but with no visible oil leak on the engine surface. Might be a indication that your engine piston rings might have worn out cause engine to run at poor compression, thus making rider have to throttle more for same speed. I put this as last one and hopefully not the issue your bike is going thru. Engine oil level can also drop due to other things when the engine is running but I shall not further explained for the time being.

This are the things you can check or ask your shop mech to check for you on your bike from number 1 to 6.

Finally, if the machine is working fine, most probably is the human side, the rider itself, factors like have you gain weight, have you start to ride the bike more aggressively, I hope what I mention helps somehow 🙇🏻‍♂️

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Many thanks for your insights.

 

will start to monitor after servicing..

changing oil n spark plug for now.

 

chain looks a bit loose. Will get it tightened as well.

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On 9/23/2022 at 6:00 PM, ConceptFuel said:

You saw my nick before? Maybe a look alike or just coincidence somewhere the name is same. Last time KR150 I rode was just a slight tune on the carburetor also on the air settings, making the mixture just about right to lubricate the engine internal while still burn off the 2T off in the combustion chamber to maintain the exhaust dry, once awhile since the engine is equip with power valve, have to rev it high three to four times a week just to ensure the valve is not sticking when you need it.

maybe lor.. haha..

👍 - indeed.. usually need to tune to make sure burn nicely or etc etc.. see your preferred mixture.. :) 

  • Like 1

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 10/11/2022 at 10:47 PM, pasoorii said:

Is there any other place that u can put ur IU unit other than at the mirror itself?

For which bike model you are referring to. If Bajaj Pulsar 200dts-i itself is usually at the mirror. Just like my own bike, or the centre mount handlebar which you have to attach a bar at the centre of the handlebar. Or inside the front fairing which I plan to do it in the future to make it discreet. For now I try to upload the picture but error keep popping up in the website.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hey cool this thread is still alive. @ConceptFuel I love your project in restoring your bike. I have been riding my 13 year old dtsi200 for 12 years(bought it at 1 year old).

I read you recently just bought it and you have 2 dtsi! May I know your reasons for your interesting choice? Considering no aftermarket parts, old, unpopular etc.

Never tinkered with anything on my bike. Just plain stock and maintained by Universal(prob why never spoil) . Odo mileage has maxed at 99999km for a few years already haha prob ard 120-130k km now. Never overhauled before which I intend to soon thus checking out this thread after a decade.

Would love to do a full restoration and looks like you are very knowledgeable and can teach me alot abt this bike. Where are you located? I dunno anything just ride only. Love this bike to bits. Plenty of priceless, sentimental memories.

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2 hours ago, urabummer said:

Hey cool this thread is still alive. @ConceptFuel I love your project in restoring your bike. I have been riding my 13 year old dtsi200 for 12 years(bought it at 1 year old).

I read you recently just bought it and you have 2 dtsi! May I know your reasons for your interesting choice? Considering no aftermarket parts, old, unpopular etc.

Never tinkered with anything on my bike. Just plain stock and maintained by Universal(prob why never spoil) . Odo mileage has maxed at 99999km for a few years already haha prob ard 120-130k km now. Never overhauled before which I intend to soon thus checking out this thread after a decade.

Would love to do a full restoration and looks like you are very knowledgeable and can teach me alot abt this bike. Where are you located? I dunno anything just ride only. Love this bike to bits. Plenty of priceless, sentimental memories.

Good Morning Urabummer. This is actually my 4th Pulsar in my lifetime. The first was actually a Pulsar 180 UG3(the only first hand I have brought). Then came in my most beloved 2009 Pulsar 200dtsi Version 2 red colour which was already scrapped due to COE expired, I name it NCC-1578A base on the number plate FBE1578. I failed to save it despite its mint condition due to extreme COE price and I was injured also during that period. After riding few other bikes, I still came back to buy a blue pulsar 200dtsi version 2 code name NCC-1578B and eventually the current black one just two years later NCC-1578C.

One reason is, its reliability of the engine, but sadly not maintain well by alot of riders here who brought it, another, the running cost of maintaining the bike is very low provided you tuned it well Second thing is the spare parts are cheap almost uncomparable to other brands provided you know where to buy it but not in Singapore. Adding that the engine is actually very tunable and upgradable to a spec that can still surpass current generation motorcycle in 2B segment in terms of efficiency. The odometer can be actually be reseted but need a chip to replace it in the meter. The bike is infamous due to the country of manufacture, looks, marketing mainly. Parts wise many will mainly look for aftermarket parts in brands and website while I usually head to the factories to fabricate, or even DIY it myself to fit into the bike. 

Is a long story if I were to type it here, but I stay somewhere in the west. You also notice my bike is always name after a initial bike plate number and I just ignore the plate number fitted on what ever pulsar I currently own. There is a reason for that.

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This was my very first Pulsar 200dtsi Version 2 one month before it had to send for scrap when COE ended codename NCC-1578A. Hate to scrap it when it still looks new and run like new after taking care of it very well.

Screenshot_20221112_091828.jpg

Screenshot_20221112_091930.jpg

Screenshot_20221112_092059.jpg

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3 hours ago, ConceptFuel said:

Good Morning Urabummer. This is actually my 4th Pulsar in my lifetime. The first was actually a Pulsar 180 UG3(the only first hand I have brought). Then came in my most beloved 2009 Pulsar 200dtsi Version 2 red colour which was already scrapped due to COE expired, I name it NCC-1578A base on the number plate FBE1578. I failed to save it despite its mint condition due to extreme COE price and I was injured also during that period. After riding few other bikes, I still came back to buy a blue pulsar 200dtsi version 2 code name NCC-1578B and eventually the current black one just two years later NCC-1578C.

One reason is, its reliability of the engine, but sadly not maintain well by alot of riders here who brought it, another, the running cost of maintaining the bike is very low provided you tuned it well Second thing is the spare parts are cheap almost uncomparable to other brands provided you know where to buy it but not in Singapore. Adding that the engine is actually very tunable and upgradable to a spec that can still surpass current generation motorcycle in 2B segment in terms of efficiency. The odometer can be actually be reseted but need a chip to replace it in the meter. The bike is infamous due to the country of manufacture, looks, marketing mainly. Parts wise many will mainly look for aftermarket parts in brands and website while I usually head to the factories to fabricate, or even DIY it myself to fit into the bike. 

Is a long story if I were to type it here, but I stay somewhere in the west. You also notice my bike is always name after a initial bike plate number and I just ignore the plate number fitted on what ever pulsar I currently own. There is a reason for that.

The reasons you stated are the exact reasons I love the dtsi 200. No radiator and oil filter so good. Parts so cheap. When UM ask permission to change I say just change spare no expense.

I've also test ridden friends' bikes and all but none give me the happiness on the Pulsar. It's a hard feeling to explain and they really don't understand why I love it so much. To me it's the perfect bike. Nice to know you're a fan!

Your bike looks so good! What a waste to scrap. You mentioned COE expensive(besides injury). Well COE now is atrocious haha. I've always said to myself as long as Bajaj continues manufacturing the parts I will keep the bike till classic plate. But then now COE 13k 😭. Maybe not feasible anymore and this is the last 7 years to ride my old faithful.

UM says the coverset is not in production anymore but I see that India still has new pulsar in this shape (unlike the NS), I believe they should fit?

Perhaps we could meet up and you give me advice on restoring my bike I really know nuts. I might just send it for overhaul, painting etc next week.

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