[Group] Singapore BAJAJ Team (SBT)

[ConceptFuel]

Front tyres have been changed from  Bridgestone Battalax BT39 90/80-17 to a mild size of Battalax BT39SS 100/80-17 to correct the rake angle of the bike with picture before on top and after at the bottom. This also allow more front wind to flow through the oil coolers increasing cooling efficiency of the coolers load for the engine when high speed cruise is needed. Until the new fatter fork arrives with a Billet 7075 Aluminum top triple clamp being CNC. I will then change to a Bridgestone Batallax BT-39SS 100/90-17 front tyres and a linger range play swingarm to compensate again for the rake angle of the bike.

Edited August 2, 2022 by ConceptFuel
Spelling correction.

[ConceptFuel]

Discovered when I took the the bike out from the shop, the handlebar was also not original. As it was fitted to a higher angle Pulsar 150 and 180 handlebar ones, I change it to the lower angle of the Pulsar 200 handlebar, which is also slightly wider by 2cm. Old one is on top while as usual new is below. Sorry I forget to remove the mount to notice the difference more easily

Lastly for now some small touches, the front brake hose guider hold at the fork was missing and keep rubbing the front fender, I just decided to install the original mount but with different grade screw and washer instead of stock mild steel screw and washer which tend to rush under weather. Stainless Steel 318L with polish copper would be nice.

[adesmond2]

11 hours ago, ConceptFuel said:

Alright since things are still on planning and awaiting some renewal parts arrival, I have done a small weight reduction, reliability and also some neat representative look on the bike. The day time picture is the original daytime of original signal light which I have replace it with a night time picture signal light. Is slightly lighter with 30grams reduction, then old signal light also tend to shake due to aged rubber mount, and also making things at the rear look neat without hinder in safety aspect with laws also. I decided to still stick to classic conventional filament signal light as to not give out too sharp light output to other road users while it still visible to other road users eyes. And yes to me of course, it looks better as a bonus.

 

11 hours ago, ConceptFuel said:

Front tyres have been changed from  Bridgestone Battalax BT39 90/80-17 to a mild size of Battalax BT39SS 100/80-17 to correct the rake angle of the bike with picture before on top and after at the bottom. This also allow more front wind to flow through the oil coolers increasing cooling efficiency of the coolers load for the engine when high speed cruise is needed. Until the new fatter fork arrives with a Billet 7075 Aluminum top triple clamp being CNC. I will then change to a Bridgestone Batallax BT-39SS 100/90-17 front tyres and a linger range play swingarm to compensate again for the rake angle of the bike.

 

11 hours ago, ConceptFuel said:

Discovered when I took the the bike out from the shop, the handlebar was also not original. As it was fitted to a higher angle Pulsar 150 and 180 handlebar ones, I change it to the lower angle of the Pulsar 200 handlebar, which is also slightly wider by 2cm. Old one is on top while as usual new is below. Sorry I forget to remove the mount to notice the difference more easily

Lastly for now some small touches, the front brake hose guider hold at the fork was missing and keep rubbing the front fender, I just decided to install the original mount but with different grade screw and washer instead of stock mild steel screw and washer which tend to rush under weather. Stainless Steel 318L with polish copper would be nice.

nice work!  

definitely a sense of achievement after all is done.. even from 0 to now also should be feeling good.  

[ConceptFuel]

On 8/3/2022 at 7:26 AM, adesmond2 said:

 

 

nice work!  

definitely a sense of achievement after all is done.. even from 0 to now also should be feeling good.  

I agree, most rider will love that

8 hours ago, Puritan3t90 said:

There will be a series of touring/long or short trip outside singapore.

Well I will be going back to my hometown and Jerantut this January, but the bike will have to do some work first. This year despite with customs open I won't be leaving Singapore. But looking forward to go for any future trips after this January onwards. But I am just riding a Pulsar 200dtsi, some ups and downs

[ConceptFuel]

With the new silver based spark plug with taperless tip has arrived. Is time to lean down the pilot jet a bit further to 1.75 threshold limit opening. To avoid from piston back pressuring. The engine torque has improve significantly but the ignition timing still have to be retarded by 1° at the sensor which I can only do some where in two to three weeks time. To this date I still avoid any Platinum and Iridium spark plug for engine temperature safeguarding and electrical consumption purpose which I can utilize it for energy recovery system. As combustion speed increase, engine and exhaust noise energy has also reduce which has been converted more to kinetic energy to the rear wheel.

[ConceptFuel]

Follow up on weight reduction. For now I just focus on the rear part of the bike where also the chain has to be changed. I just stay with the same final drive ratio but with weight reduction of 600 grams. Converting from 14T/41T 520 pitch to a quieter and lighter drive 15T/38T 428 pitch chains. The sprocket numbers might be suppose to be slightly longer gear but also have to consider the diameter of the sprocket where the chains going around it. Total bike weight loss so far have reach 4.25Kg. Down to 141Kg wet weight.

[ConceptFuel]

2 hours ago, Puritan3t90 said:

singapore

Latest News

What Singapore Puritan?

[DakDak]

Anyone has had any issue whereby the gear shifter feels very loose or easy to change gear without resistance? Any solutions to this?

[ConceptFuel]

7 minutes ago, DakDak said:

Anyone has had any issue whereby the gear shifter feels very loose or easy to change gear without resistance? Any solutions to this?

Very easy gear change is a good desirable situation that alot would like. Signs of good and precise gearbox design. A slight movable tolerance before gear change is normal. If your bike seasoned bike that has gone for long mileage, signs that the gearbox is well shaped and run in greatly. Depends also on what kind of bike you are riding and also the gear shift external shaft is set to longer travel or shorter travel which you can adjust at certain bike models.

Edited August 13, 2022 by ConceptFuel
Missing sentence

[DakDak]

2 minutes ago, ConceptFuel said:

Very easy gear change is a good desirable situation that alot would like. Signs of good and precise gearbox design. A slight movable tolerance before gear change is normal. If your bike seasoned bike that has gone for long mileage, signs that the gearbox is well shaped and run in greatly.

Sort of feel its more "loose" per say. Sometimes cant tell if I already changed gear when riding as well. 

[ConceptFuel]

5 minutes ago, DakDak said:

Sort of feel its more "loose" per say. Sometimes cant tell if I already changed gear when riding as well. 

Try and see if your bike have a gear lever shaft running along the gear shift lever where you usually kick up and down to shift gear. It might be set too long, it is adjustable for some bike model to suit to your gear change lever movement. Kind of like sensitivity settings.

Edited August 13, 2022 by ConceptFuel

[adesmond2]

On 8/13/2022 at 2:47 PM, ConceptFuel said:

What Singapore Puritan?

that's a forum bot.. LOL.. I already block him..

 

On 8/13/2022 at 3:17 PM, DakDak said:

Sort of feel its more "loose" per say. Sometimes cant tell if I already changed gear when riding as well. 

I believe could be some screws loose? Or clutch plates worn off..

 

On 8/13/2022 at 3:22 PM, ConceptFuel said:

Try and see if your bike have a gear lever shaft running along the gear shift lever where you usually kick up and down to shift gear. It might be set too long, it is adjustable for some bike model to suit to your gear change lever movement. Kind of like sensitivity settings.

yeah.. check on that screw and all and see if anything loose.. if not, most likely clutch plates..

[ConceptFuel]

Ceh chat Bot, I was wonder why on earth the person suddenly link about other topic hahaha

[ConceptFuel]

With some free time to spare, is time to do the ignition timing work, starting with only 0.5° retardation on the ignition curve to 9.5° on idling of 1100rpm. Even with spare flywheel in stock in my home. Still have to be careful with this task as calculation have to be done on different kind of flywheel size.

Take opportunity also to clean the front sprocket compartment and also clean the flywheel inner diameter to keep the charging system clean. From top picture start to end task bottom picture. Further idling mixture screw is to set to just 1.5 turns open with further idling speed screw reduce to 1000rpm idle, since the new spark plugs use slightly less electrical power due to silver based the regulator/rectifier will be running slightly hotter due to more excess voltage that have to be converted to heat by the regulator.

With this extra excess electrical power, I can utilize it for power recovery unit as auxiliary fuel from external and also reduce back the reg/rec to low heat making it last a long time without failure since most motorcycle is running on permanent magnet generator rather than a car alternator.

[adesmond2]

2 hours ago, ConceptFuel said:

With some free time to spare, is time to do the ignition timing work, starting with only 0.5° retardation on the ignition curve to 9.5° on idling of 1100rpm. Even with spare flywheel in stock in my home. Still have to be careful with this task as calculation have to be done on different kind of flywheel size.

Take opportunity also to clean the front sprocket compartment and also clean the flywheel inner diameter to keep the charging system clean. From top picture start to end task bottom picture. Further idling mixture screw is to set to just 1.5 turns open with further idling speed screw reduce to 1000rpm idle, since the new spark plugs use slightly less electrical power due to silver based the regulator/rectifier will be running slightly hotter due to more excess voltage that have to be converted to heat by the regulator.

With this extra excess electrical power, I can utilize it for power recovery unit as auxiliary fuel from external and also reduce back the reg/rec to low heat making it last a long time without failure since most motorcycle is running on permanent magnet generator rather than a car alternator.

really nice work.. how you adjust the ignition timing from your magnetic coil?

[ConceptFuel]

4 hours ago, adesmond2 said:

really nice work.. how you adjust the ignition timing from your magnetic coil?

A good question . The magnetic coil is not the part of the bike charging system but the flywheel itself. If you see the picture there is a raised rectangular strip on the outer diameter surface, you have to grind it off a bit unlike those with bike with adjustable CDI or ECU. This method is a fix perimeter for the whole range of rpm of the engine operation. Thats where the signal is pick up by the pulser coil for the CDI (for my bike) to fire the spark plug in the combustion chamber of the bike.

Too much grinding will result in excessive retardation of the engine causing loss of power and high emissions of the exhaust due to not enough time for the fuel to be burn to create high pressure for the piston to go down during the power stroke. This is the reason why even when I have a spare flywheel, I still have to be careful not to grind it too much and just start with only 0.5° retardation on the timing.

[adesmond2]

7 hours ago, ConceptFuel said:

A good question . The magnetic coil is not the part of the bike charging system but the flywheel itself. If you see the picture there is a raised rectangular strip on the outer diameter surface, you have to grind it off a bit unlike those with bike with adjustable CDI or ECU. This method is a fix perimeter for the whole range of rpm of the engine operation. Thats where the signal is pick up by the pulser coil for the CDI (for my bike) to fire the spark plug in the combustion chamber of the bike.

Too much grinding will result in excessive retardation of the engine causing loss of power and high emissions of the exhaust due to not enough time for the fuel to be burn to create high pressure for the piston to go down during the power stroke. This is the reason why even when I have a spare flywheel, I still have to be careful not to grind it too much and just start with only 0.5° retardation on the timing.

icic.. trial and error I believe..  

[ConceptFuel]

44 minutes ago, adesmond2 said:

icic.. trial and error I believe..  

I agree, but with some proper homework and proper calculation, mistakes can be minimize and achieve desired results instead. Doing things without any planning can gone to oblivion.

[adesmond2]

12 minutes ago, ConceptFuel said:

I agree, but with some proper homework and proper calculation, mistakes can be minimize and achieve desired results instead. Doing things without any planning can gone to oblivion.

I dun dare for such cases.. hahaha.. need to ask my bike shop mechanic..

[ConceptFuel]

Now, with a baseline done on the ignition timing setting. The most tricky and some work part is after installing the Energy Recovery system. Which is consist of Auxiliary Fuel Unit that I have already installed on the bike and the future HTES on the drivetrain of the bike. The engine has made alot of progress in terms of noise reduction by 20%.

Combustion is more controlled and precise making the idling of the engine to cope at 1000rpm and stable thumping sound, thus less heat is produced with less fuel wastage when is not moving. During rides, observe fuel consumption has reduce by 15% running on RON 92 Esso fuel. Great thing also no higher RON is needed as temperature of the engine has drop significantly, wish Singapore got sell RON 89 . But is now constrain by the pilot jet size where it has to be reduce from a stock 17.5 to 15 to allow for tuning play and also for better atomization of the fuel from the carburetor to the engine intake port.

Bike rectifier/regulator heat has also drop alot to just warm feeling by touch on the hand, which indicates I can still draw a bit more excess electrical energy to fuel production thus timing retardation can be slightly further adjusted to increase engine thermal efficiency target of 35%. So have to order Mikuni jet and wait for shipment to arrived before proceed any further.

Also the meter that come with the bike was not the original Pulsar 200 meter. Go to change that to classic simple white speedo meter. Last picture taken is the  meter that was taken from the Pulsar 220 which is not sold in Singapore

8 minutes ago, adesmond2 said:

I dun dare for such cases.. hahaha.. need to ask my bike shop mechanic..

It takes a bit of learning to understand how things work. Makes alot simpler when you know how it really works. I rarely allow mech to touch my bike unless I really need to change tyres chains that short of stuff. The rest I usually maintain the bike myself. Is not only to cut the cost down, but primarily to know what happen when it breakdown or doesn't sound right on rides.

[ConceptFuel]

As this Pulsar is for leisure use, is time to revive back another Pulsar which I have brought from a friend with a slight problem on the engine. Laying under cover for a year already. Is time to repair the engine. That is going to be for work use with mostly stock trim condition. Doing things one at a time......

[adesmond2]

4 hours ago, ConceptFuel said:

Now, with a baseline done on the ignition timing setting. The most tricky and some work part is after installing the Energy Recovery system. Which is consist of Auxiliary Fuel Unit that I have already installed on the bike and the future HTES on the drivetrain of the bike. The engine has made alot of progress in terms of noise reduction by 20%.

Combustion is more controlled and precise making the idling of the engine to cope at 1000rpm and stable thumping sound, thus less heat is produced with less fuel wastage when is not moving. During rides, observe fuel consumption has reduce by 15% running on RON 92 Esso fuel. Great thing also no higher RON is needed as temperature of the engine has drop significantly, wish Singapore got sell RON 89 . But is now constrain by the pilot jet size where it has to be reduce from a stock 17.5 to 15 to allow for tuning play and also for better atomization of the fuel from the carburetor to the engine intake port.

Bike rectifier/regulator heat has also drop alot to just warm feeling by touch on the hand, which indicates I can still draw a bit more excess electrical energy to fuel production thus timing retardation can be slightly further adjusted to increase engine thermal efficiency target of 35%. So have to order Mikuni jet and wait for shipment to arrived before proceed any further.

Also the meter that come with the bike was not the original Pulsar 200 meter. Go to change that to classic simple white speedo meter. Last picture taken is the  meter that was taken from the Pulsar 220 which is not sold in Singapore

It takes a bit of learning to understand how things work. Makes alot simpler when you know how it really works. I rarely allow mech to touch my bike unless I really need to change tyres chains that short of stuff. The rest I usually maintain the bike myself. Is not only to cut the cost down, but primarily to know what happen when it breakdown or doesn't sound right on rides.

that's pretty cool.. I wan to reduce heat on my rectifier as well..

My 2A rectifier is extremely hot.. you mentioned it could get cool off by? timing issues?

 

3 hours ago, ConceptFuel said:

As this Pulsar is for leisure use, is time to revive back another Pulsar which I have brought from a friend with a slight problem on the engine. Laying under cover for a year already. Is time to repair the engine. That is going to be for work use with mostly stock trim condition. Doing things one at a time......

LOL.. you are part time mechanic already..

[ConceptFuel]

2 minutes ago, adesmond2 said:

that's pretty cool.. I wan to reduce heat on my rectifier as well..

My 2A rectifier is extremely hot.. you mentioned it could get cool off by? timing issues?

 

LOL.. you are part time mechanic already..

Is not timing issues, is actually excess voltage that is being converted into heat by the regulator which is then being transferred to the frame of the bike. The less excess electrical energy is sent to the regulator part of the rectifier, the cooler it runs. Bear in mind that bike mostly runs on permanent magnet generator system. Regardless you switch on or off the lights of the bike, it will still generate electricity and try to send it to the battery for charging, when the battery is full, any excess voltage will be regulated by the regulator into heat. Usually is not the rectifier quality is the issue, is just that many are not aware of how it works and many but not all workshop also never explained it truly.

Just now, ConceptFuel said:

Is not timing issues, is actually excess voltage that is being converted into heat by the regulator which is then being transferred to the frame of the bike. The less excess electrical energy is sent to the regulator part of the rectifier, the cooler it runs. Bear in mind that bike mostly runs on permanent magnet generator system. Regardless you switch on or off the lights of the bike, it will still generate electricity and try to send it to the battery for charging, when the battery is full, any excess voltage will be regulated by the regulator into heat. Usually is not the rectifier quality is the issue, is just that many are not aware of how it works and many but not all workshop also never explained it truly.

I suggest try increase your electrical consumption a bit more like try on some power consuming gadget or something to minimize any excess voltage to the regulator often thus less heat will be generated, where your rectifier will last a longer time.

[ConceptFuel]

There are two way in doing it to let the rectifier run cooler. Energy loss way or recovery way.

Energy loss way: Later go and see if your rec/reg holder to the frame that is held by bolts or screw is made of steel or aluminum. If it is steel, change it to aluminum, since it helps on better heat transfer and is also lighter in a way and dont rust easily which can reduce heat transfer to the bike frame. Or a bolt on mini cooling can helps that use little current.

Recovery way: Use the excess electrical energy for any useful purpose like mini audio, charge phone, or even on board fuel manufacturing to be use by the engine extending the range of the bike.

Rule of tumb is to get the electrical consumption as close to the electrical production level to minimize heat loss. Is the heat that actually damage the rectifier. Not the quality most of the time.

[adesmond2]

1 hour ago, ConceptFuel said:

Is not timing issues, is actually excess voltage that is being converted into heat by the regulator which is then being transferred to the frame of the bike. The less excess electrical energy is sent to the regulator part of the rectifier, the cooler it runs. Bear in mind that bike mostly runs on permanent magnet generator system. Regardless you switch on or off the lights of the bike, it will still generate electricity and try to send it to the battery for charging, when the battery is full, any excess voltage will be regulated by the regulator into heat. Usually is not the rectifier quality is the issue, is just that many are not aware of how it works and many but not all workshop also never explained it truly.

I suggest try increase your electrical consumption a bit more like try on some power consuming gadget or something to minimize any excess voltage to the regulator often thus less heat will be generated, where your rectifier will last a longer time.

 

1 hour ago, ConceptFuel said:

There are two way in doing it to let the rectifier run cooler. Energy loss way or recovery way.

Energy loss way: Later go and see if your rec/reg holder to the frame that is held by bolts or screw is made of steel or aluminum. If it is steel, change it to aluminum, since it helps on better heat transfer and is also lighter in a way and dont rust easily which can reduce heat transfer to the bike frame. Or a bolt on mini cooling can helps that use little current.

Recovery way: Use the excess electrical energy for any useful purpose like mini audio, charge phone, or even on board fuel manufacturing to be use by the engine extending the range of the bike.

Rule of tumb is to get the electrical consumption as close to the electrical production level to minimize heat loss. Is the heat that actually damage the rectifier. Not the quality most of the time.

ahhhhh.. now I understand... that means if we do grounding = not so good since most electricity went back to the battery causing too much electricity?

I almost had most stuff on my bike.. camera and etc.. but I realised my 2B handled that heat easily.. but for 2A.. the heat seems to be excessive.. but you could be correct.. let me check out the current and all that..