Mito Riders

[haowei]

dear to all mito riders, may i noe when i jus get liensence(still in p plate) if i get mito. how much is my insurance? thanks

[syarif]

Originally posted by haowei@January 18, 2007 12:08 pm

dear to all mito riders, may i noe when i jus get liensence(still in p plate) if i get mito. how much is my insurance? thanks

it depends on your age, the insurance company, and the party you wanna take, ie 1st, 2nd or 3rd party. very hard to estimate..

 

 

 

 

btw saw captain jack with his yellow fila mito yesterday. that's some eye attracting bike siaa.

[fairuzmito]

well haha, atleast now i noe im not riding alone this this old skool machine. but still can smoke most 2 stroke bike to be honest. only everything is vibrating brutally. all sort of sound comes after years of riding. haiz.. well anuone got rear shocks to spare? mine's a goner. just quote me the $$. Btw, any one wif any unused parts to sell. inform me plzz. i mean plz. my mito is falling apart if don remedy. juz dont qoute to high k . haha. ItaliAn Braders rite? LOL

[smokesail368]

Originally posted by syarif@January 18, 2007 05:15 pm

btw saw captain jack with his yellow fila mito yesterday. that's some eye attracting bike siaa.

you saw me?where?haha.

[Danthearcher]

bad news guys, yesterday my friend went to make a new 3rd party insurance, its was quoted 540, as 300 plus extra charge of 150 dollars.. i ask why,n they say its a new implement for this year.. wtf, asked NTUC, and mitsul, same damm price, so in the end he made at NTUC as can pay installments.

[bluchken86]

Hello everyone using this forum, i've been trying to get some help regarding some issues with my mito and one of my friend recommended this forum... so i hope i can get some help from the more experienced mito riders out there..

 

1) i'm trying to change my carb to a first hand one, and i understand that the mito stock carb is size 28mm. correct me if i'm wrong k. my current carb is not too gd and my bike is FM plate so got wear and tear issues.. and the carb also feels cold after riding it which is not a gd sign. that's why i trying to get a new carb..

 

i would like to know what would be the ideal size for a carb if i prefer economical fuel comsumption?

 

2) does having a smaller size carb mean i'll achieve lower top speed? or slower acceleration?

 

3) my mito always die off at traffic light and i have to continue revving it to stop it from dying, is this a sign of bad engine? or bad carb?

 

4) for those who have bought and used the product Superione, i just want to know if it really works in saving fuel?

 

thank you for taking time to read this post,

hope to hear from u guys soon

[kwyjibo]

Originally posted by bluchken86+January 20, 2007 01:17 pm-->

QUOTE (bluchken86 @ January 20, 2007 01:17 pm)

Hello everyone using this forum, i've been trying to get some help regarding some issues with my mito and one of my friend recommended this forum... so i hope i can get some help from the more experienced mito riders out there..   1) i'm trying to change my carb to a first hand one, and i understand that the mito stock carb is size 28mm. correct me if i'm wrong k. my current carb is not too gd and my bike is FM plate so got wear and tear issues.. and the carb also feels cold after riding it which is not a gd sign. that's why i trying to get a new carb..   i would like to know what would be the ideal size for a carb if i prefer economical fuel comsumption?   2) does having a smaller size carb mean i'll achieve lower top speed? or slower acceleration?   3) my mito always die off at traffic light and i have to continue revving it to stop it from dying, is this a sign of bad engine? or bad carb?   4) for those who have bought and used the product Superione, i just want to know if it really works in saving fuel? [/b]   1,2) Ideal FC is of cos achieved by using the stock 28 mm Del'toro. Changing to a smaller than recommended one may not necessarily mean a higher top. A piston siezure is highly possible though.   3) Its worn out clutch plates. Try adjusting ur biting pt further. If its max out, time to change clutch plates or just live with it. Can also be a dead/weak batt but i doubt so since u still can start.   4) If this addictive does help to save fuel, why dont all the fuel companies adopt it?   I can see that u r very worried abt ur Mito's FC. Sorry to say this but i m extremely irritated with people who want style, speed, handling n fuel saving all in 1 bike.

[kurarensu]

Originally posted by syarif@January 18, 2007 05:15 pm

it depends on your age, the insurance company, and the party you wanna take, ie 1st, 2nd or 3rd party. very hard to estimate..

 

 

 

 

btw saw captain jack with his yellow fila mito yesterday. that's some eye attracting bike siaa.

for 18yrs old just pass license how much roughly? cos for aprilia 3rd party is about 828.. what abt mito 18yrs old 3rd party?

[RicharDucati]

Fuel tank sold off.. Still have some spare to sell... Kota Tinggi flooding now leh amin..

 

1. Mito engine bottom end bearings(First Hand)

2. 3 spoke rims

3. Rider seat

4. Sub fairings

[amgm125]

geko:Eh now insurance damn ex, think they rise their premium in the past i called mitsui they told me abt $320, now suddenly become $400+ 3rd party nia..think they might have made a mistake. I was quoted by another firm for $338 only.

 

Eh, next month go-kart can. this time we all start together at the same time at the start/finish line.

[kwyjibo]

Originally posted by amgm125@January 21, 2007 12:14 am

geko:Eh now insurance damn ex, think they rise their premium in the past i called mitsui they told me abt $320, now suddenly become $400+ 3rd party nia..think they might have made a mistake. I was quoted by another firm for $338 only.

 

Eh, next month go-kart can. this time we all start together at the same time at the start/finish line.

Insurance for what bike? Mito ah? I cant remb mine but its also around the region of 300++ with no NCD last time.

 

So Richard this time u want come for the Go-kart not? Dont worry u n Jon n Ben can smell my smoke one. I not that fast till u guys cant smell it. Hahas!

Mm so we going on a weekend? Find a sat where we all free then.

[RicharDucati]

When you all going again?

 

I got mito engine bottom end bearings.. Interested parties pls PM me...

[amgm125]

Originally posted by gekokujyou@January 21, 2007 12:21 am

Insurance for what bike? Mito ah? I cant remb mine but its also around the region of 300++ with no NCD last time.

 

So Richard this time u want come for the Go-kart not? Dont worry u n Jon n Ben can smell my smoke one. I not that fast till u guys cant smell it. Hahas!

Mm so we going on a weekend? Find a sat where we all free then.

Yah lah, for mito one. The aprilia 250 abt 460ba. So they might have made a mistake on quoting me the mito 400+, how could it be that price when 250cc is 460+

 

Regarding the go-kart find a weekend and try to go earlier..if late go very rush plus the stupid causeway jam.

[Azahael]

Whoa it suck to be young and with no riding experience now. Third party cost $828! Thats crazy! When i was a 18 my first party insurance was only $1150! Thats hell of a difference.

[syarif]

wah. consider i very lucky having $348 for TPFT from NTUC with 10% NCD! hohoho!

 

oh i had this stall engines at traffic lights too last time. gotta tune it properly. now my RPM meter is at 1.6 when im in neutral and it doesnt die off even after 10mins of neutral-ing. is that reccommended?

 

and all 2stroker gulps fuel for sure. i just did my FC. full tank = 213km. thirsty beast i guess. haha

[jonathan543]

Originally posted by bluchken86@January 20, 2007 01:17 pm

Hello everyone using this forum, i've been trying to get some help regarding some issues with my mito and one of my friend recommended this forum... so i hope i can get some help from the more experienced mito riders out there..

 

1) i'm trying to change my carb to a first hand one, and i understand that the mito stock carb is size 28mm. correct me if i'm wrong k. my current carb is not too gd and my bike is FM plate so got wear and tear issues.. and the carb also feels cold after riding it which is not a gd sign. that's why i trying to get a new carb..

 

i would like to know what would be the ideal size for a carb if i prefer economical fuel comsumption?

 

2) does having a smaller size carb mean i'll achieve lower top speed? or slower acceleration?

 

3) my mito always die off at traffic light and i have to continue revving it to stop it from dying, is this a sign of bad engine? or bad carb?

 

4) for those who have bought and used the product Superione, i just want to know if it really works in saving fuel?

 

thank you for taking time to read this post,

hope to hear from u guys soon

1. ppl change aftermarket carb is to achieve more performance and power over the stock ones.

generally speaking, race carb / bigger bore carbs should give u more top end power(not speed!) but flatter low end power(moving off from stop, accelerating be4 the valve opens). fuel consumption should increase since more fuel is needed to be mixed in proper ratio in the venturi.

if you think ur carb is giving u problems, consider overhaul the internals instead like needle jet, float switch, etc.

it is normal for the carb to be cold, but not to the extend of water condensing on the carb(kanna once)! the fuel takes in heat from the surroundings when it vapourises in the venturi... so it is perfectly normal for the carb to be cold.

stock 28mm would be most idea, since it is the stock size. stock components are designed in mind for the most durability and usage!

2. quite the opposite! you should have a betta low end power but flatter high end. pls note top speed and pickup are determined by the sprocket ratios. of course wit a higher powered bike, u can pick up and reach ur top speed faster, but the top speed u can reach is abt the same for the stock and bigger bored carb, provided the carbs had been jetted to the maximun efficiency!

3. if u meant when clutching in, the engine then slowly drops its rpm, or u can feel the bike is inching forward slowly, you need to adjust the biting point of the clutch lever further away from the handle bar. in this case, even when ur fully clutched in, the clutch is still not totally disengaged yet, as if in half clutch.

if on neutral, the bike idles normally and smoothly without dying, but even after u adjusted the clutch cable when clutched in, the idle rpm still sounds uncertain or dies off eventually, might be ur clutch plates are worn out and needed replacing.

if on neutral and when clutched in, the rpm's sounds uncertain and the bike'll eventually dies off, u need to adjust the idle screw by hand, located on the side of the carb to a higher idling rpm. if after adjusting the screw, yet the bike's idling rpm is uncertain and still dies off, maybe the pilot jet is too small.

u can do the following test. next time ur bike sounds dying off soon when idling, give a really quick pull on ur choke and close back. if the rpm shoots up and slowly came down again, is a definate sign of a too lean idle jet. if the engine dies off without the rpm surging up, the pilot jet's the correct size.

a healthy pilot jet should keep the bike idling normally without struggling for as long as u started the bike.

4. do u mean some kind of brass jet, to be connected in the fuel line? supposely to improve the power and fuel economy of the bike by creating turbulances or through an adjustable air screw? DO NOT! had received feedbacks of while having a betta throttle response(leaning out), when suddenly open throttle, the bike dies off or lose power koz of the restrictions in the brass jet. have ur carb jetted up correctly, you should be fine.

geko- pls la, tell u so many times le, and proven liao, even on a blown fuse, or without a batt, 2t bike still can start and move off safely! even the 2t pump works! a drained batt should have no impact on a 2t bike's performance, other than a dead exhaust valve!

[kwyjibo]

KNN Jon why nowadays u so long winded. Hahas

Yes i know that e batt does not affect the 2t bike just that if e batt is dead/weak, ur bike will die off too during idling! How many times must i tell u that also?!

[fairuzmito]

Originally posted by RicharDucati@January 21, 2007 08:57 am

When you all going again?

 

I got mito engine bottom end bearings.. Interested parties pls PM me...

engine bottom end bearing is which part to be detail? im not such bout its part actually. its used for? for sure mine is a goner by now. fm plate.

[bluchken86]

Originally posted by jonathan543@January 22, 2007 03:37 pm

1. ppl change aftermarket carb is to achieve more performance and power over the stock ones.

generally speaking, race carb / bigger bore carbs should give u more top end power(not speed!) but flatter low end power(moving off from stop, accelerating be4 the valve opens). fuel consumption should increase since more fuel is needed to be mixed in proper ratio in the venturi.

if you think ur carb is giving u problems, consider overhaul the internals instead like needle jet, float switch, etc.

it is normal for the carb to be cold, but not to the extend of water condensing on the carb(kanna once)! the fuel takes in heat from the surroundings when it vapourises in the venturi... so it is perfectly normal for the carb to be cold.

stock 28mm would be most idea, since it is the stock size. stock components are designed in mind for the most durability and usage!

2. quite the opposite! you should have a betta low end power but flatter high end. pls note top speed and pickup are determined by the sprocket ratios. of course wit a higher powered bike, u can pick up and reach ur top speed faster, but the top speed u can reach is abt the same for the stock and bigger bored carb, provided the carbs had been jetted to the maximun efficiency!

3. if u meant when clutching in, the engine then slowly drops its rpm, or u can feel the bike is inching forward slowly, you need to adjust the biting point of the clutch lever further away from the handle bar. in this case, even when ur fully clutched in, the clutch is still not totally disengaged yet, as if in half clutch.

if on neutral, the bike idles normally and smoothly without dying, but even after u adjusted the clutch cable when clutched in, the idle rpm still sounds uncertain or dies off eventually, might be ur clutch plates are worn out and needed replacing.

if on neutral and when clutched in, the rpm's sounds uncertain and the bike'll eventually dies off, u need to adjust the idle screw by hand, located on the side of the carb to a higher idling rpm. if after adjusting the screw, yet the bike's idling rpm is uncertain and still dies off, maybe the pilot jet is too small.

u can do the following test. next time ur bike sounds dying off soon when idling, give a really quick pull on ur choke and close back. if the rpm shoots up and slowly came down again, is a definate sign of a too lean idle jet. if the engine dies off without the rpm surging up, the pilot jet's the correct size.

a healthy pilot jet should keep the bike idling normally without struggling for as long as u started the bike.

4. do u mean some kind of brass jet, to be connected in the fuel line? supposely to improve the power and fuel economy of the bike by creating turbulances or through an adjustable air screw? DO NOT! had received feedbacks of while having a betta throttle response(leaning out), when suddenly open throttle, the bike dies off or lose power koz of the restrictions in the brass jet. have ur carb jetted up correctly, you should be fine.

geko- pls la, tell u so many times le, and proven liao, even on a blown fuse, or without a batt, 2t bike still can start and move off safely! even the 2t pump works! a drained batt should have no impact on a 2t bike's performance, other than a dead exhaust valve!

Geko,

thanks for your input, really appreciate it. currently my mito can go at most 18km per litre but i know of some mitos out there that can go 25-23km per litre. that is what i trying to achieve, not outrageous fuel saving.

 

Jonathan,

thank you for your help.

my bike does not inch forward and it dies off when i'm in neutral so i guess my clutch plates are worn out already...

so with a smaller bore, i shud get better acceleration and the same top speed! ok i've got to change..

anybody out there got 28mm stock carb (dellOrto)? very hard to get the stock, at besk i can only get Kielhn or Mikuni.. got suggestion for gd brand?

ok, i also will survey the market for a 47-teeth sprocket..thanks!

[linglila]

Hey Jon543(the all-time organiser),

When the next outing??

[smokesail368]

i am finally a sparks rider.haharunning in super sian.long way more.haha

[syarif]

guys. my bike, sumtyms when i drag to the redline, the rpm suddenly drop and there's this sort of engine braking. the sound also like engine braking. is that a power cut thingy or sumthing? if it is, any possible ways of taking it off?

[Azahael]

Signs of piston jam. Muahahahaha.

[syarif]

like are you serious?!! :giddy:

[Azahael]

Yup. very serious. Been riding mito for 6 years. So from what you said should be knocking of the piston against the block thats why the engine braking feeling. Cos mito got no powercut. the only powercut lies in the pipe.