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Posted
Originally posted by Jaws?@May 31 2006, 08:32 PM

Kawasaki Ninja ZX-12R Beetle Bags

 

http://www.corbin.com/kawasaki/zx12bag.jpg

 

http://www.corbin.com/kawasaki/zx12bag3.jpg

Swee le..Dunnoe who will be d 1st one in SGP???:cheer: :cheer: :cheer:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/busakiller/Cool_Minibikes_5.jpg

"Despite the vast improvements in the field of automobile safety, there is still one simple

component that talented car,bike engineers & designers can do nothing about - the Nut behind the steering wheel or the Rider!!!

Everyone haf a DARKSIDE What is YOURS???:angel:

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Posted
Originally posted by Jaws?@May 31 2006, 08:32 PM

Kawasaki Ninja ZX-12R Beetle Bags

 

http://www.corbin.com/kawasaki/zx12bag.jpg

 

http://www.corbin.com/kawasaki/zx12bag3.jpg

ya, i saw it before on a Blackbird, n it look good on it ....

 

 

:smile:

fn328k.multiply.com/photos

 

 

Life is short, Ride hard..........

Posted

Isn't this better?

 

http://www.rka-luggage.com/pages/14gallry/06kaw/page1/pics/ZX12BlackGold1bi.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e54/quincy77/MONSTERENERGY.jpg

It is when power is wedded to chronic fear that it becomes formidable.

Posted

i prefer those HP boxes more er....muscular... this cobin thing look so...duno how to put it...anyway i dun think it k fit with aft mkt exhuast rite???is that a seat cover?i tot i saw gold lines on the seats

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i71/vyn12r/kaw2.gif
Posted

anyway...paris ris will pull ur ear if he sees boxes on ur zx..dennis nearly kana when he wanted to get that!

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i71/vyn12r/kaw2.gif
Posted

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i71/vyn12r/ah_toot_2.jpg

ah-toot pic

beware of this guy ,he is a NINJA EATER!!!!keke..just kidding..he is 1 of the nicest busa rider i know.and a very very fast 1...

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i71/vyn12r/kaw2.gif
Posted
Originally posted by VYN@Jun 1 2006, 11:23 PM

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i71/vyn12r/ah_toot_2.jpg

ah-toot pic

beware of this guy ,he is a NINJA EATER!!!!keke..just kidding..he is 1 of the nicest busa rider i know.and a very very fast 1...

okie VYN u got any last words ?? my bet will be toot toot is going to kill u after he sees this

Posted

hope he wont drop by ur thread....have to warn the zx12r bro about this ninjaeater mah...keke...ah-toot is the nicest biker frd i know...he try to take of fellow bikers and their bikes at zouk too...wana plan a zx12r zoukouting??drinks on jaws the thread starter

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i71/vyn12r/kaw2.gif
Posted

okie guys heres something new

 

http://www.200mph.ca/

click on here then look for the pics logo on the right, click on it again then find the Mods to the 12r there is something there dat is very new to mi , claiming to fix the flat spot at 2500rpm where most of the 12r guys have after changing to after market exgusts

Posted
Originally posted by VYN@Jun 1 2006, 11:37 PM

hope he wont drop by ur thread....have to warn the zx12r bro about this ninjaeater mah...keke...ah-toot is the nicest biker frd i know...he try to take of fellow bikers and their bikes at zouk too...wana plan a zx12r zoukouting??drinks on jaws the thread starter

:cheer: on the friendliest biker thing yup i gotta agree wif u hmm.. zouk outing okie first round on mi the rest on VYN hows dat :p okie show of hands any one ?? hur hur hur

Posted

I have NOt done this mod myself... But it is said to reduce low rpm stumble..

 

you will need:

1)-12.5 pilot jet,from a mikuni carb.very important on that size only.

2).5 inches of vacuum hose.

3).a plastic vacuum line seperator.

Pull off the hose at the a.p.s.& put the seperator in.

Take the 5 inch hose and put the pilot jet about an inch INSIDE of hose.

Put the 5 inch hose onto the seperator thats already on the other hose,make sure you put the side of the 5 inch hose with the jet in it on the seperator.reconnect the a.p.s with the other side of the 5 inch hose.end of story

and one good mod.remember:

the bike will run good after it warm's up.

good-luck.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i71/vyn12r/kaw2.gif
Posted
Originally posted by VYN@Jun 1 2006, 11:52 PM

I have NOt done this mod myself... But it is said to reduce low rpm stumble..

 

you will need:

1)-12.5 pilot jet,from a mikuni carb.very important on that size only.

2).5 inches of vacuum hose.

3).a plastic vacuum line seperator.

Pull off the hose at the a.p.s.& put the seperator in.

Take the 5 inch hose and put the pilot jet about an inch INSIDE of hose.

Put the 5 inch hose onto the seperator thats already on the other hose,make sure you put the side of the 5 inch hose with the jet in it on the seperator.reconnect the a.p.s with the other side of the 5 inch hose.end of story

and one good mod.remember:

the bike will run good after it warm's up.

good-luck.

hey vyn wanna try together ??

0. disconnect the wires below and to the front of the sensor

1. remove the vacuum line from bottom of sensor.

2. bend the two clamps holding the vac line up against the throttle bodiesso you can pull it out far enough to cut it.

3. cut the vacuum line about 4-5 inches from where it connected to sensor.( just after the bend in the line.) discard.

4. take your 5/32 T connector and plug up the end of the tee that you aren't using. the cap offs are sold where you got you T.

5. plug the tee into the vac hose that was running along the front of throttle bodies.

6. to sum it up, you cut the vac line 4 inches back from the sensor. then you connected a tee with the one side plugged.. so now comes the 5" piece of hose with the pilot jet in it.

7. now use a hair dryer to warm the 5 inches of 5/32 vac hose. once its a little warm, put a little spit 'on the pilot jet and push it 1 inch into the hose. . i used a ball allen to push it down.

8. the end of the 5" vac line with the pilotjet now get connected to the T.

9. connect the other end to the bottom of the flow sensor.

10. push the line back into the 2 brackets and bend.( i only used the inner bracket because i didn't like the hard bend it put on the hose) reconnect all your wires and crank it up.

11. no flat spot

 

all the technical stuff is from workman, i just broke it down so some of "us" that aren't too quick to just start cutting and taking stuff apart can understand it. I like being very thorough when it comes to my shadetree mechanic/do it yourself projects. Afterall, it is my ride to work.

if i insulted your intel, dont take it personal, just trying to make it fool proof.

 

you can use the kawasaki or the mukini pilotjet $3 to $9. just make sure its #12.5 Use a t connector or an inline splice connector. INLINE 5/32 IS HARD TO FIND. .i dont recommend the big universal connector. A 5/32" T with a vacuum line cap at the bottom otf tee is perfect. you cant see when its installed anyway.

Posted

okie who is interested in this ??

http://www.hyperformanceparts.com/catalog/images/SSOILKIT300x300(90Q).jpg

Scotts Performance Billet Oil Filter - Kawasaki ZX12R

 

 

Scotts Billet Oil Filters: Superior Filtration:

This should be the last oil filter you will ever buy! Made from laser cut, medical grade, 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth, this filter provides 200% more filter area in many cases. Most good paper filters will pass particles in the 90 to 95 micron range, and some tested, as much as 300 microns. Sand is about 125 microns and a white blood cell approximately 25 microns. Our stainless filter catches items down to 35 microns "absolute", which is about 3 times better than most good paper or brass filters. The pleat seam is welded, able to withstand up to 600 degrees in our filter, not glued, like paper filters.

 

Cleanable and reusable:

Simply remove the filter, rinse in clean solvent and replace it, you're done. The filter can be cleaned with solvent, kerosene, aerosol carburetor cleaner, or any other degreasing agent, even common dish soap. You can even blow air through the filter from the inside out to remove any small particles or cleaning agent from the screen if you so desire.

 

Consistent flow under all conditions:

Stainless steel will stand up to the stress of heat, high pressure and physical handling much better than paper or brass. This filter maintains consistent flow under all conditions including cold start ups and or under extreme heat. A one inch square of this micron filter material will flow 1.9 gallons of 90 weight oil per minute at only 1 psi pump pressure (70 degrees F). Our typical filter size is 30 sq. in. which equals the flow of 57 gallons per minute. Standard paper filters do not flow well when the oil is cold, often causing the bypass valve to open allowing unfiltered oil to enter your engine, uhg!

 

Unaffected by Water, Heat and Pressure:

This filter is capable of withstanding extremely high pressure and flow rates. It is also unaffected by Water, Heat and Pressure, unlike standard paper filter material which swells in the presence of water, closing off filter pores and reducing flow.

 

Early Detection:

By allowing you to inspect the debris that is in the filter you can monitor your engines condition, avoiding minor and or catastrophic failures.

 

What is a Micron?

A micron is one thousandth of a millimeter. That's about .00003937 inches. Fine sand can be as small as 62 microns thick. Our filter will not allow any particle over 35 microns to pass through this filter, that's some pretty small stuff that's being caught.

 

So who uses this type of filtration?

This high tech filter technology is widely used in all types of auto racing including NASCAR, Indy type cars, Formula 1 and in the Aerospace industry where filtration is of the utmost importance.

 

Things to think about:

Next time you are fanning your clutch think about all that tiny debris that is created from the clutch and gears meshing together, spinning around in your motor's vital parts. If you really care about the life of your motor and consider the cost of loss of time associated with a current day 4-stroke motor, then you need one of these filters. It's even transferable in some cases to your next bike. I used the same filter in my last three bikes, and it's still like brand new, there's simply nothing to wear out.

 

Environmental benefits

In addition to all the other benefits, our filter helps keep the land fills free of old used filters.

 

This filter is proudly made in the USA.

Posted

http://i10.ebayimg.com/02/i/04/fa/7c/3f_1_b.JPG

KHI oil filter for me!!!

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i71/vyn12r/kaw2.gif
Posted

This is good stuff cannot bluff... :thumb: But how is the price like.. :confused:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e54/quincy77/MONSTERENERGY.jpg

It is when power is wedded to chronic fear that it becomes formidable.

Posted
Originally posted by Jaws?@Jun 2 2006, 12:06 AM

hey vyn wanna try together ??

0. disconnect the wires below and to the front of the sensor

1. remove the vacuum line from bottom of sensor.

2. bend the two clamps holding the vac line up against the throttle bodiesso you can pull it out far enough to cut it.

3. cut the vacuum line about 4-5 inches from where it connected to sensor.( just after the bend in the line.) discard.

4. take your 5/32 T connector and plug up the end of the tee that you aren't using. the cap offs are sold where you got you T.

5. plug the tee into the vac hose that was running along the front of throttle bodies.

6. to sum it up, you cut the vac line 4 inches back from the sensor. then you connected a tee with the one side plugged.. so now comes the 5" piece of hose with the pilot jet in it.

7. now use a hair dryer to warm the 5 inches of 5/32 vac hose. once its a little warm, put a little spit 'on the pilot jet and push it 1 inch into the hose. . i used a ball allen to push it down.

8. the end of the 5" vac line with the pilotjet now get connected to the T.

9. connect the other end to the bottom of the flow sensor.

10. push the line back into the 2 brackets and bend.( i only used the inner bracket because i didn't like the hard bend it put on the hose) reconnect all your wires and crank it up.

11. no flat spot

 

all the technical stuff is from workman, i just broke it down so some of "us" that aren't too quick to just start cutting and taking stuff apart can understand it. I like being very thorough when it comes to my shadetree mechanic/do it yourself projects. Afterall, it is my ride to work.

if i insulted your intel, dont take it personal, just trying to make it fool proof.

 

you can use the kawasaki or the mukini pilotjet $3 to $9. just make sure its #12.5 Use a t connector or an inline splice connector. INLINE 5/32 IS HARD TO FIND. .i dont recommend the big universal connector. A 5/32" T with a vacuum line cap at the bottom otf tee is perfect. you cant see when its installed anyway.

Do you really need? I mean after your bike done up.. o_O

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e54/quincy77/MONSTERENERGY.jpg

It is when power is wedded to chronic fear that it becomes formidable.

Posted
Originally posted by Cybernation@Jun 3 2006, 01:38 AM

Do you really need? I mean after your bike done up.. o_O

think most of the 12r ppl after replacing their pipes are getting a flat spot at about 2500rpm even after dyno so if u got this problem maybe u can gib it a try :) mi abit lazy to do it heehee

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