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[Technical] Possible Solutions to your Phantom's Problem


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Posted
  revhappy said:
Could be from the shock absorbers also

 

Possible. But if the squeaking sound is constant or relative to speed, might be bearing liao. If if comes and goes might be shocks.

2B - 29 December 2010, one time pass

2A - On going...

 

4 May 2011 to August 2011 - Honda NSR150SP

21 July 2012 - Honda Phantom TA200

 

http://thrumylensontwowheels.blogspot.sg/

 

Nikon D5000 | AF-S DX Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5 - 5.6G VR | Vitacon 67mm UV Filter | Sigma EF-610 DG Super Flash | Yongnuo Speedlight YN560

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Posted
  revhappy said:
Could be from the shock absorbers also

 

It doesn't sound like the "squeak squeak" of the weight on suspension leh, more like a "sqqqquuueeeaaaaakk" at certain speeds

Posted
  AbangKau said:
It doesn't sound like the "squeak squeak" of the weight on suspension leh, more like a "sqqqquuueeeaaaaakk" at certain speeds

 

Hmm, need to take it to a bike shop and jack up the rear and check, if it is bearings, disc brake or something else.

May '10 - Jun '11 : Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTSi UG2

Jul '11 - Jan '12 : Honda Phantom TA200

Feb '12 - Jul '12 : Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTSi UG3

Aug '12 - Current : Bajaj Pulsar 200 DTSi

Posted
  revhappy said:
Hmm, need to take it to a bike shop and jack up the rear and check, if it is bearings, disc brake or something else.

 

Agreed. Almost forgot its brakes. But for me is if its brakes, pillion or no pillion it should sound out cause weight has no impact on your brakes. Once my brake pump spoil and disc is rubbing againts pads as the pads didnt retract fully, resulting in the sound. If the sound is like those old aunty trolly squeaking sound, might be bearing. But again best go bike shop as what bro revhappy has mentioned to check to play safe.

2B - 29 December 2010, one time pass

2A - On going...

 

4 May 2011 to August 2011 - Honda NSR150SP

21 July 2012 - Honda Phantom TA200

 

http://thrumylensontwowheels.blogspot.sg/

 

Nikon D5000 | AF-S DX Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5 - 5.6G VR | Vitacon 67mm UV Filter | Sigma EF-610 DG Super Flash | Yongnuo Speedlight YN560

Posted

Wah headache lah. Engine bogging and dying problem come back again sia F**K. Same problem, initially bike was smooth and such. After running about 15km the bike's power dropped, and sputters alot when at low speed. Sometimes it sputters till i cant trottle up and also risk stalling the engine. Also when the engine sputters its backfiring as well.

 

After the first prob, Carb is washed and serviced, air filter new and okay after i check, airbox no obstruction, no oil, no nothing. Every possible maintenance drain plug also cleared all gunk. Can't think of anything except 1 thing: Rust in tank. My tank inner is not smooth. It looks rusted with some particles (like u know, some chao tar bits on burnt chicken wings). But they dont look fragile to fall off anytime. I tried checking the petrol by turning off the petcock and pulling out the hose linking to the carb. The petrol looked slightly brownish/milkish as compared to fresh petrol. But to further confirm the petrol is milkish, I poured it onto a plastic tray but fish, it corroded the tray and the petrol all poured out. -__- Decided not to test petrol again that way as its very dangerous. Anytime can catch fire. But any other way to confirm my petrol is actually contaminated with rust? However what puzzles me is that i have never cleaned the tank since 3k km ago when i bought the bike. So why did the problem appeared so abruptly?

 

Anyway i cant find any vacuum leak either. This is seriously mind bogging. If small problem nvm but this can result in me calling a tow truck and thats not good news. Even the mechanics at the shop had a tough time figuring out what's wrong. But all i know is that spark plug is fouled on one side. 3/4 of it is white. The other 1/4 showed black/dark brown colour. So what does that mean basically? Is it lean or rich? I cant find any pics that matches my sparkplug condition either. :cry:

 

Found a picture of a rusty tank similar condition to mine, but mine is only half of that.

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt12/clanktank/DSC_1484.jpg

2B - 29 December 2010, one time pass

2A - On going...

 

4 May 2011 to August 2011 - Honda NSR150SP

21 July 2012 - Honda Phantom TA200

 

http://thrumylensontwowheels.blogspot.sg/

 

Nikon D5000 | AF-S DX Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5 - 5.6G VR | Vitacon 67mm UV Filter | Sigma EF-610 DG Super Flash | Yongnuo Speedlight YN560

Posted
  Spark_135 said:
Wah headache lah. Engine bogging and dying problem come back again sia F**K. Same problem, initially bike was smooth and such. After running about 15km the bike's power dropped, and sputters alot when at low speed. Sometimes it sputters till i cant trottle up and also risk stalling the engine. Also when the engine sputters its backfiring as well.

 

After the first prob, Carb is washed and serviced, air filter new and okay after i check, airbox no obstruction, no oil, no nothing. Every possible maintenance drain plug also cleared all gunk. Can't think of anything except 1 thing: Rust in tank. My tank inner is not smooth. It looks rusted with some particles (like u know, some chao tar bits on burnt chicken wings). But they dont look fragile to fall off anytime. I tried checking the petrol by turning off the petcock and pulling out the hose linking to the carb. The petrol looked slightly brownish/milkish as compared to fresh petrol. But to further confirm the petrol is milkish, I poured it onto a plastic tray but fish, it corroded the tray and the petrol all poured out. -__- Decided not to test petrol again that way as its very dangerous. Anytime can catch fire. But any other way to confirm my petrol is actually contaminated with rust? However what puzzles me is that i have never cleaned the tank since 3k km ago when i bought the bike. So why did the problem appeared so abruptly?

 

Anyway i cant find any vacuum leak either. This is seriously mind bogging. If small problem nvm but this can result in me calling a tow truck and thats not good news. Even the mechanics at the shop had a tough time figuring out what's wrong. But all i know is that spark plug is fouled on one side. 3/4 of it is white. The other 1/4 showed black/dark brown colour. So what does that mean basically? Is it lean or rich? I cant find any pics that matches my sparkplug condition either. :cry:

 

Found a picture of a rusty tank similar condition to mine, but mine is only half of that.

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt12/clanktank/DSC_1484.jpg

 

bro cant help much but im curious and some thoughts..:

1. when u say cloudy meaning it looks like a suspension or a solution?

2. how you empty the petrol out? through the hose? (someone told me i could juz pump the petrol out through a hand pump)

also i think you need a metal container 'cos petrol could be a solvent that dissolve thermoplastics mostly..

3. it's awkward when u say the spark plug dont hv homogeneous color leh.. was the plug new?

4. now the engine still sputter after svcing the carb? if its not safe to operate juz go for it and have it tow to another mechanic for a different opinion..

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

Posted

also got image of yr spark plug?

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

Posted

I tink go to a bikeshop as them help u drain the petrol and see the petrol. If its milky and not clear, u might hv contamination, and possibly the cause of ur sputtering. Then u can try fill up with fresh petrol and see how it goes. Worse come to worse, u might nd to chg tank. Can scout ard for 2nd hand ones.

A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

:thumb:

 

2010-2012 : Honda Phantom TA200

2012-current : SYM Maxsym 400i

 

Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/adiknaim

 

 

SG Maxsym FB Group: http://www.facebook.com/groups/sgmaxsym/

Posted (edited)
  naim said:
I tink go to a bikeshop as them help u drain the petrol and see the petrol. If its milky and not clear, u might hv contamination, and possibly the cause of ur sputtering. Then u can try fill up with fresh petrol and see how it goes. Worse come to worse, u might nd to chg tank. Can scout ard for 2nd hand ones.

 

Is it possible to clean off the rust? I read elsewhere they used vinegar and other stuffs to rid off the rust then flush it with clean petrol and voila. Anyway thinking back im starting to be certain the fuel filter that's attached to the petcock is choked. Before i change a new one, the old filter has some particles stucked onto it and its dark brown rust-looking particles but it was broken off slightly and petrol possibly went past that broken connection thats why i never had that prob back then. And directly before i had this problem the bike had an extremely loud "eek argh eek argh eeeeeeeek argghhhhhh" noise. At first i thot it was bearing gone but ever since my engine starting dying the sound was gone. Now thinking back it sounded like someone sucking thru a choking straw. And the sound came from the petcock area. Anyway the last thing i want is to change tank because i have to repaint the bike in that sense and its going to be costly. (I will have difficulty selling it also with 2 tone colours)

 

Update: Altho possible filter is not choked. I pull out the hose connecting to carb and turn on the petcock, petrol still flows out, fast. But i got a feeling its not accurate to judge it that way because when bike is cooled down it has no prob running etc. Only after running a certain mileage the prob starts coming back. Most likely explanation is when bike is placed stationary and on side stand for some time the rust particles settle down and stuffs choking the filter fall off due to gravity. When bike start running again the particles start cloggging the filter up again. Possible?

Edited by Spark_135

2B - 29 December 2010, one time pass

2A - On going...

 

4 May 2011 to August 2011 - Honda NSR150SP

21 July 2012 - Honda Phantom TA200

 

http://thrumylensontwowheels.blogspot.sg/

 

Nikon D5000 | AF-S DX Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5 - 5.6G VR | Vitacon 67mm UV Filter | Sigma EF-610 DG Super Flash | Yongnuo Speedlight YN560

Posted

Bro,

 

Sorry to say the condition of your tank look really bad :(

Saw a youtube video Metal Rescue for tank

 

  Spark_135 said:
Is it possible to clean off the rust? I read elsewhere they used vinegar and other stuffs to rid off the rust then flush it with clean petrol and voila. Anyway thinking back im starting to be certain the fuel filter that's attached to the petcock is choked. Before i change a new one, the old filter has some particles stucked onto it and its dark brown rust-looking particles but it was broken off slightly and petrol possibly went past that broken connection thats why i never had that prob back then. And directly before i had this problem the bike had an extremely loud "eek argh eek argh eeeeeeeek argghhhhhh" noise. At first i thot it was bearing gone but ever since my engine starting dying the sound was gone. Now thinking back it sounded like someone sucking thru a choking straw. And the sound came from the petcock area. Anyway the last thing i want is to change tank because i have to repaint the bike in that sense and its going to be costly. (I will have difficulty selling it also with 2 tone colours)

 

Update: Altho possible filter is not choked. I pull out the hose connecting to carb and turn on the petcock, petrol still flows out, fast. But i got a feeling its not accurate to judge it that way because when bike is cooled down it has no prob running etc. Only after running a certain mileage the prob starts coming back. Most likely explanation is when bike is placed stationary and on side stand for some time the rust particles settle down and stuffs choking the filter fall off due to gravity. When bike start running again the particles start cloggging the filter up again. Possible?

Phantom TA200 2012, Vara 125 2013 (Betong)

TZR 125 (HatYai) 2013 & 2018 (Tak Bai)

CB400SF PB1 (Danok, HatYai, Yala, Betong and Su-ngai Kolok) 2014

CB400SF PB1 Iron Butt SaddleSore 1600k 25th Feb 2015

NT650V Deuville (Pattani) (Solo SG-MY-TH-LS)

ST1100 Pan 3 mountain ride in 24hr , MHS 1864 2017

http://tripdrive.blogspot.sg

Posted

Maybe way to be certain is u chg d filter 1st. If over nxt few weeks it starts to accumulate stuff, then u knw ur tank is corroded inside. Nt sure abt d vinegar technique, but i knw thr are some commercially available products overseas that can clean as well as reseal d surface. No use cleaning the rust then it comes back agn cux d surface nt protected.

A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

:thumb:

 

2010-2012 : Honda Phantom TA200

2012-current : SYM Maxsym 400i

 

Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/adiknaim

 

 

SG Maxsym FB Group: http://www.facebook.com/groups/sgmaxsym/

Posted

Take a look at this.

 

KREEM MOTORCYCLE FUEL GAS TANK SEALER LINER COMBO FOR 2.5 GAL TANKS KR004 KIT`

 

http://bit.ly/ULlYkQ

 

Expensive though. Read ard that some use marbles and stuff to swirl inside just to scrape the bigger pieces of rust (if urs is rly bad la)

A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

:thumb:

 

2010-2012 : Honda Phantom TA200

2012-current : SYM Maxsym 400i

 

Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/adiknaim

 

 

SG Maxsym FB Group: http://www.facebook.com/groups/sgmaxsym/

Posted

Bro,

 

You really like to purchase item from oversea :cheeky:

 

  naim said:
Take a look at this.

 

KREEM MOTORCYCLE FUEL GAS TANK SEALER LINER COMBO FOR 2.5 GAL TANKS KR004 KIT`

 

http://bit.ly/ULlYkQ

 

Expensive though. Read ard that some use marbles and stuff to swirl inside just to scrape the bigger pieces of rust (if urs is rly bad la)

Phantom TA200 2012, Vara 125 2013 (Betong)

TZR 125 (HatYai) 2013 & 2018 (Tak Bai)

CB400SF PB1 (Danok, HatYai, Yala, Betong and Su-ngai Kolok) 2014

CB400SF PB1 Iron Butt SaddleSore 1600k 25th Feb 2015

NT650V Deuville (Pattani) (Solo SG-MY-TH-LS)

ST1100 Pan 3 mountain ride in 24hr , MHS 1864 2017

http://tripdrive.blogspot.sg

Posted

Ok affirmative its corroded tank bits. Thank god my dad is resourceful. Went to DIY shop near my house he buy those plastic hand pump and a huge 10L jerry can. LOL. Was wtf when i saw it, didnt know i can find it here. Basically with the help of my dad pumped the petrol into the clear jerry can. Within secs of pumping alr saw particles of rust coming out. So much i can fill the surface of a 50cents coin. It doesnt end there. Removed entire tank, pour some petrol, slosh it around, then use the pump suck out the petrol and voila, can see alot(i really mean alot) of rust particles start coming out. Managed to clear alot of it i hope but some bits were still left in there. I think the only way to remove all is to cut open the bottom of the tank by workshop and weld it back. But should be able to remove most of the gunk that chokes the filter i hope. Lets see if the problem still persist.

2B - 29 December 2010, one time pass

2A - On going...

 

4 May 2011 to August 2011 - Honda NSR150SP

21 July 2012 - Honda Phantom TA200

 

http://thrumylensontwowheels.blogspot.sg/

 

Nikon D5000 | AF-S DX Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5 - 5.6G VR | Vitacon 67mm UV Filter | Sigma EF-610 DG Super Flash | Yongnuo Speedlight YN560

Posted
  osxunix said:
Bro,

 

You really like to purchase item from oversea :cheeky:

 

Hahaha! Yes! I hate how locals import and jack up the price substantially to earn alot from us consumers. Most of the tyms u can get really good deals at the expense of some small waiting time for the shipping. :D

A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

:thumb:

 

2010-2012 : Honda Phantom TA200

2012-current : SYM Maxsym 400i

 

Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/adiknaim

 

 

SG Maxsym FB Group: http://www.facebook.com/groups/sgmaxsym/

Posted

No need leave it for a night what you use to clear the rust?

 

  Spark_135 said:
Ok affirmative its corroded tank bits. Thank god my dad is resourceful. Went to DIY shop near my house he buy those plastic hand pump and a huge 10L jerry can. LOL. Was wtf when i saw it, didnt know i can find it here. Basically with the help of my dad pumped the petrol into the clear jerry can. Within secs of pumping alr saw particles of rust coming out. So much i can fill the surface of a 50cents coin. It doesnt end there. Removed entire tank, pour some petrol, slosh it around, then use the pump suck out the petrol and voila, can see alot(i really mean alot) of rust particles start coming out. Managed to clear alot of it i hope but some bits were still left in there. I think the only way to remove all is to cut open the bottom of the tank by workshop and weld it back. But should be able to remove most of the gunk that chokes the filter i hope. Lets see if the problem still persist.

Phantom TA200 2012, Vara 125 2013 (Betong)

TZR 125 (HatYai) 2013 & 2018 (Tak Bai)

CB400SF PB1 (Danok, HatYai, Yala, Betong and Su-ngai Kolok) 2014

CB400SF PB1 Iron Butt SaddleSore 1600k 25th Feb 2015

NT650V Deuville (Pattani) (Solo SG-MY-TH-LS)

ST1100 Pan 3 mountain ride in 24hr , MHS 1864 2017

http://tripdrive.blogspot.sg

Posted
  osxunix said:
No need leave it for a night what you use to clear the rust?

 

Nothing basically just use petrol slosh it around to clear the particles and suck it out. Thats for now because i do not have the time to keep the bike tankless and dont have solvents to remove rust. Then refill it with petrol. Next time got solvents then redo it. Anyway was thinking of using coke and fill it up to remove rust. It've been proven coke can remove rust as it contains phosphoric acid. What do you guys think? I think its the cheapest way to try remove rust. But i still need a tank liner to protect it from rusting again.

2B - 29 December 2010, one time pass

2A - On going...

 

4 May 2011 to August 2011 - Honda NSR150SP

21 July 2012 - Honda Phantom TA200

 

http://thrumylensontwowheels.blogspot.sg/

 

Nikon D5000 | AF-S DX Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5 - 5.6G VR | Vitacon 67mm UV Filter | Sigma EF-610 DG Super Flash | Yongnuo Speedlight YN560

Posted

Agree mi just brought GPS waterproof mount cheaper than local and a M80 spy cam for record trip video but brought a expensive Go Curise throttle control @SGD$30 ship from USA. Haiz very broke now lol

 

  naim said:
Hahaha! Yes! I hate how locals import and jack up the price substantially to earn alot from us consumers. Most of the tyms u can get really good deals at the expense of some small waiting time for the shipping. :D

Phantom TA200 2012, Vara 125 2013 (Betong)

TZR 125 (HatYai) 2013 & 2018 (Tak Bai)

CB400SF PB1 (Danok, HatYai, Yala, Betong and Su-ngai Kolok) 2014

CB400SF PB1 Iron Butt SaddleSore 1600k 25th Feb 2015

NT650V Deuville (Pattani) (Solo SG-MY-TH-LS)

ST1100 Pan 3 mountain ride in 24hr , MHS 1864 2017

http://tripdrive.blogspot.sg

Posted

Bro,

 

I think coke won't harm the tank if is mi I will try and to save more money I think need go those ABC budget shop they have 2L coke from China or Thailand our tank can take 11.2L. :cheeky:

 

  Spark_135 said:
Nothing basically just use petrol slosh it around to clear the particles and suck it out. Thats for now because i do not have the time to keep the bike tankless and dont have solvents to remove rust. Then refill it with petrol. Next time got solvents then redo it. Anyway was thinking of using coke and fill it up to remove rust. It've been proven coke can remove rust as it contains phosphoric acid. What do you guys think? I think its the cheapest way to try remove rust. But i still need a tank liner to protect it from rusting again.

Phantom TA200 2012, Vara 125 2013 (Betong)

TZR 125 (HatYai) 2013 & 2018 (Tak Bai)

CB400SF PB1 (Danok, HatYai, Yala, Betong and Su-ngai Kolok) 2014

CB400SF PB1 Iron Butt SaddleSore 1600k 25th Feb 2015

NT650V Deuville (Pattani) (Solo SG-MY-TH-LS)

ST1100 Pan 3 mountain ride in 24hr , MHS 1864 2017

http://tripdrive.blogspot.sg

Posted
  osxunix said:
Bro,

 

I think coke won't harm the tank if is mi I will try and to save more money I think need go those ABC budget shop they have 2L coke from China or Thailand our tank can take 11.2L. :cheeky:

 

The only problem is to make sure it all comes out and not some residue is left inside otherwise coke itself become a contaminant. I think best is follow what someone did in the US; pour coke in, let it eat the **** up, pour it out, flush it with hot water. The hot water will evap away and will not remain inside. Then use hair dyer to make sure its really dried inside. Then use tank liner to seal all up and prevent rust from happening again.

2B - 29 December 2010, one time pass

2A - On going...

 

4 May 2011 to August 2011 - Honda NSR150SP

21 July 2012 - Honda Phantom TA200

 

http://thrumylensontwowheels.blogspot.sg/

 

Nikon D5000 | AF-S DX Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5 - 5.6G VR | Vitacon 67mm UV Filter | Sigma EF-610 DG Super Flash | Yongnuo Speedlight YN560

Posted

Make sure next tym u slosh around put in some stuff like marbles or nuts just to help scrub d inner surface abit more. U can actly take off the whole petcock so u can drain d stuff and the bigger particles.

A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

:thumb:

 

2010-2012 : Honda Phantom TA200

2012-current : SYM Maxsym 400i

 

Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/adiknaim

 

 

SG Maxsym FB Group: http://www.facebook.com/groups/sgmaxsym/

Posted

I suggest source a good condition tank from people who are scrapping phantom, very easy to find one for very cheap.

Then use the tank temporarily until you are able to permanently repair your existing tank and then may be switch back your tank and resell the sourced tank.

 

This way, your bike won't be grounded while you repair your tank.

May '10 - Jun '11 : Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTSi UG2

Jul '11 - Jan '12 : Honda Phantom TA200

Feb '12 - Jul '12 : Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTSi UG3

Aug '12 - Current : Bajaj Pulsar 200 DTSi

Posted
  revhappy said:
I suggest source a good condition tank from people who are scrapping phantom, very easy to find one for very cheap.

Then use the tank temporarily until you are able to permanently repair your existing tank and then may be switch back your tank and resell the sourced tank.

 

This way, your bike won't be grounded while you repair your tank.

 

Thats a very good idea. Haha shall think about this idea.

 

  naim said:
Make sure next tym u slosh around put in some stuff like marbles or nuts just to help scrub d inner surface abit more. U can actly take off the whole petcock so u can drain d stuff and the bigger particles.

 

Yup i took out the entire petcock and drain it. No use. I read somewhere is tie a string to some nuts and throw the nuts in. That way at least u can retrieve the nut instead of getting it stucked inside for good.

2B - 29 December 2010, one time pass

2A - On going...

 

4 May 2011 to August 2011 - Honda NSR150SP

21 July 2012 - Honda Phantom TA200

 

http://thrumylensontwowheels.blogspot.sg/

 

Nikon D5000 | AF-S DX Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5 - 5.6G VR | Vitacon 67mm UV Filter | Sigma EF-610 DG Super Flash | Yongnuo Speedlight YN560

Posted
  Spark_135 said:
Wah headache lah. Engine bogging and dying problem come back again sia F**K. Same problem, initially bike was smooth and such. After running about 15km the bike's power dropped, and sputters alot when at low speed. Sometimes it sputters till i cant trottle up and also risk stalling the engine. Also when the engine sputters its backfiring as well.

 

After the first prob, Carb is washed and serviced, air filter new and okay after i check, airbox no obstruction, no oil, no nothing. Every possible maintenance drain plug also cleared all gunk. Can't think of anything except 1 thing: Rust in tank. My tank inner is not smooth. It looks rusted with some particles (like u know, some chao tar bits on burnt chicken wings). But they dont look fragile to fall off anytime. I tried checking the petrol by turning off the petcock and pulling out the hose linking to the carb. The petrol looked slightly brownish/milkish as compared to fresh petrol. But to further confirm the petrol is milkish, I poured it onto a plastic tray but fish, it corroded the tray and the petrol all poured out. -__- Decided not to test petrol again that way as its very dangerous. Anytime can catch fire. But any other way to confirm my petrol is actually contaminated with rust? However what puzzles me is that i have never cleaned the tank since 3k km ago when i bought the bike. So why did the problem appeared so abruptly?

 

Anyway i cant find any vacuum leak either. This is seriously mind bogging. If small problem nvm but this can result in me calling a tow truck and thats not good news. Even the mechanics at the shop had a tough time figuring out what's wrong. But all i know is that spark plug is fouled on one side. 3/4 of it is white. The other 1/4 showed black/dark brown colour. So what does that mean basically? Is it lean or rich? I cant find any pics that matches my sparkplug condition either. :cry:

 

Found a picture of a rusty tank similar condition to mine, but mine is only half of that.

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt12/clanktank/DSC_1484.jpg

 

Bro, use a "Yeos" lemon barley bottle it won't melt. And it's see through once you rip off the plastic wrapper. :)

Motorcyclist are the nicest people on the road, try not to kill us.

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