batt voltages

[Ah_Pet]

i have install a volt meter on my bike..

 

jus to check how to really read the meter when is low(going to flat) or charging?

 

when i on my bike is abt 12.5~12.8v

when crank abt 10.8~11.2v

when moving max is abt 14.5v

when fully warm up idling abt 13v

 

is it normal? btw my batt 2yrs liao..

[Aalex82]

i have install a volt meter on my bike..

 

jus to check how to really read the meter when is low(going to flat) or charging?

 

when i on my bike is abt 12.5~12.8v

when crank abt 10.8~11.2v

when moving max is abt 14.5v

when fully warm up idling abt 13v

 

is it normal? btw my batt 2yrs liao..

 

from wat i see, i guess u tap the wire as wat most bikers do..

tap the live wire of the volt meter to ign wire or fuse box..

this method can onli help u to see whether the charging of the batt is gd or bad.. for yr reading is still ok.. as of moving bike reading, some bike may hav lesser reading compare to yrs..

as for the condition of the batt, there another way to check..

every time when u on the bike every morning, remember the reading (12.5~12.8).. after u hav ride the bike and cut off the engine(ign still on, engine not running), check the reading again.. should be at abt 13 V. means is fully charged..

if suddenly at one morning, the reading fall to 12.2 or 12.3, time to take note of the batt as the batt is not holding the charges well..

[Demon]

i have install a volt meter on my bike..

 

jus to check how to really read the meter when is low(going to flat) or charging?

 

when i on my bike is abt 12.5~12.8v

when crank abt 10.8~11.2v

when moving max is abt 14.5v

when fully warm up idling abt 13v

 

is it normal? btw my batt 2yrs liao..

 

 

Voltage alone does not give an indication of the health of a battery. What you are measuring is the voltage of the battery without load which is quite meaningless.

 

Current battery technology for bikes is about 2years based on a typical charge cycle.

 

If you don't want to wake up one morning to discover the battery is too weak to crank start the engine, just changed your battery every 2 years. If your battery cost $120, it's only $0.16 per day, and typical two cranks per day, each crank costs $0.08.

[limbat]

Voltage alone does not give an indication of the health of a battery. What you are measuring is the voltage of the battery without load which is quite meaningless.

 

Current battery technology for bikes is about 2years based on a typical charge cycle.

 

If you don't want to wake up one morning to discover the battery is too weak to crank start the engine, just changed your battery every 2 years. If your battery cost $120, it's only $0.16 per day, and typical two cranks per day, each crank costs $0.08.

 

I have been around automotives batteries for a long time - better quality batteries do last much longer than wat you have mentioned. Like everything else, they do have a shelf-life & will expired when time is due but with maintenance they will go the extra mile. I have personally use battery on our own vehicles & they do last 3-5 years. My last battery changed was from our bike - it was 3.5years old. Sign of a weak or dying battery should be they hv difficulty cranking to start the vehicle - do try charging them up 1st as they may hv be draining the nite b4 or left idle too long. Besides the $ & cts value - going green will benefit everyone. Lead-acid batteries are highly toxic & very difficult to dispose off.

[Ah_Pet]

thankz for all ur replys..

[Ah_Pet]

 

If you don't want to wake up one morning to discover the battery is too weak to crank start the engine, just changed your battery every 2 years.

 

i'm riding pulsar.. so if crank start fails on mi, i still have kick start.

jus wan to use the full capacity of my batt.. and going Green as wat limbat said. fcoz saving abit more money for more petrol..

[Jfor_Jimmy1986]

errr... i observed my voltmeter lehh..

 

idlingg - 12.0 - 12.3v

ignition on but engine not start - 11.5v - 11.7v

 

moving on road - 12.5 - 12.7v ONLY..

pressing E.horn - 10.5v.. jialattt...

 

lol... so whats my bike prob here..

[w00t]

11.5v a little lower then normal but guess its still okay.

 

 

If you suspect any abnormal voltage, maybe you could try this http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/fault-finding-guide.php

 

The fault finding guide kinda helped me a lot on various occasions when I had a faulty rectifier and faulty battery. Hope these helps you guys!

 

 

Cheers.

[limbat]

errr... i observed my voltmeter lehh..

 

idlingg - 12.0 - 12.3v

ignition on but engine not start - 11.5v - 11.7v

 

moving on road - 12.5 - 12.7v ONLY..

pressing E.horn - 10.5v.. jialattt...

 

lol... so whats my bike prob here..

 

Pls have your charging system checked - insufficient charging !!

[Aalex82]

errr... i observed my voltmeter lehh..

 

idlingg - 12.0 - 12.3v

ignition on but engine not start - 11.5v - 11.7v

 

moving on road - 12.5 - 12.7v ONLY..

pressing E.horn - 10.5v.. jialattt...

 

lol... so whats my bike prob here..

 

when u install the voltmeter??

is it recently??

if recently, hav it cross reference wif a multimeter.. cos voltmeter may inaccurate or even spoil..

or suddenly the reading drop to wat u mention??

if the reading slowly drop and suddenly drop, hav yr charging system be check..

[w00t]

Pls have your charging system checked - insufficient charging !!

 

hi limbat, i heard you offer a battery reconditioning service, but have to come to your shop or something right? Whens the recommended time to recondition after I 1st brought my battery?

 

 

Btw Maintenance free batt there's no way to recondition right? So how can I actually take care of it?

 

 

Sorry for hijacking this thread. But I guess this question would help the others who are concerned abt their batteries and the voltage too.

 

Thanks!

[Acer1337]

I also want to hijack this thread. What happens if I blow a fuse and just continue riding? e.g. There are two fuses near my battery. Yesterday, I meddled with the electrical. Suddenly, the bike cannot turn on. Even the red LED of the immobiliser system is not blinking. Then, I swap the 2 fuses with each other. And hence, everything is back to normal except no high beam. So, is it safe if I continue this way? Because I'm not free these few days to go to Sim Lim Tower to get the fuses.

[gohjohan]

i have install a volt meter on my bike..

 

jus to check how to really read the meter when is low(going to flat) or charging?

 

when i on my bike is abt 12.5~12.8v

when crank abt 10.8~11.2v

when moving max is abt 14.5v

when fully warm up idling abt 13v

 

is it normal? btw my batt 2yrs liao..

 

Yes, it's about right.

 

i'm riding pulsar.. so if crank start fails on mi, i still have kick start.

jus wan to use the full capacity of my batt.. and going Green as wat limbat said. fcoz saving abit more money for more petrol..

 

To save your alternator, for cold start, use the kick starter. When engine is still warm, can use the electric start. This way, your battery and alternator will last longer 'cos the battery won't be using much power to turn the coil.

[gabriel06]

just to ask, where to get a basic voltmeter with back light analog or digital is fine with me.. and the rough price range so i wont get ripped off ! haha

 

 

I am able to wire it up myself.. Thanks.

[limbat]

hi limbat, i heard you offer a battery reconditioning service, but have to come to your shop or something right? Whens the recommended time to recondition after I 1st brought my battery?

 

Btw Maintenance free batt there's no way to recondition right? So how can I actually take care of it?

 

Sorry for hijacking this thread. But I guess this question would help the others who are concerned abt their batteries and the voltage too.

Thanks!

 

Along as your "MF" battery is a lead-acid filled it can be recondition - if possible comeby this Sat - pls call 93891138 for more details........

[limbat]

just to ask, where to get a basic voltmeter with back light analog or digital is fine with me.. and the rough price range so i wont get ripped off ! haha

 

I am able to wire it up myself.. Thanks.

 

Read here mate -

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4504888#post4504888

[Jfor_Jimmy1986]

Pls have your charging system checked - insufficient charging !!

 

do you think gg to bike shop may help? or should i contact u... ? ty..

[limbat]

yr LBS will know wat to do .............. i dun know how to solve yr bike problem .... cheers

[FunkyChicken]

errr... i observed my voltmeter lehh..

idlingg - 12.0 - 12.3v

ignition on but engine not start - 11.5v - 11.7v

moving on road - 12.5 - 12.7v ONLY..

pressing E.horn - 10.5v.. jialattt...

lol... so whats my bike prob here..

The alternator is charging but seem ur not usng the oem rectifier sold by local distributor

 

i have install a volt meter on my bike..

jus to check how to really read the meter when is low(going to flat) or charging?

when i on my bike is abt 12.5~12.8v

when crank abt 10.8~11.2v

when moving max is abt 14.5v

when fully warm up idling abt 13v

is it normal? btw my batt 2yrs liao..

Healthy!! no probs

 

I also want to hijack this thread. What happens if I blow a fuse and just continue riding? e.g. There are two fuses near my battery. Yesterday, I meddled with the electrical. Suddenly, the bike cannot turn on. Even the red LED of the immobiliser system is not blinking. Then, I swap the 2 fuses with each other. And hence, everything is back to normal except no high beam. So, is it safe if I continue this way? Because I'm not free these few days to go to Sim Lim Tower to get the fuses.

No problem, but best to replace it asap. dun need to head to SIM LIM, any bike shop shud have the fuse u need. some petrol kiosk and diy shop do sell fuse too.

 

just to ask, where to get a basic voltmeter with back light analog or digital is fine with me.. and the rough price range so i wont get ripped off ! haha

I am able to wire it up myself.. Thanks.

Ask Limbatt or mr PAISEH.. got mine frm him and a truely satisfied customer!

[Chaoz]

sorry to hijack the thread..

wanna check mine.. very confusing..

 

early morning on engine (no headlight, no fan, no brake) = 12v

start bike, idling (no headlight, no fan, no brake) = 12.2 ~ 12.5v

idling (headlight on) = 11.5 ~ 11.7v

brake + headlight on = 11.2 ~ 11.3v

 

After riding for sometime, bike become hot, on fan, go back to carpark..

 

fan on, headlight on, brake on = 10.7 ~ 11v

 

Off everything after riding, back to 12.2 ~ 12.4v like tt..

 

Something i noticed, when i off engine and fan still running, my fan is louder (more powerful) when i off my headlight. On headlight, fan become weaker.

 

And one more thing, my bike is installed with voltage stabilizer...

[limbat]

Your charging system is charging too low pls have it check asap...

[Pplater]

only lead acid battery can re-con? Inside is powder one can not? Dry one..

[limbat]

If your is powder 1 then cannot laaa but u sure itis not lead-acid "MF" type ... ??

[Pplater]

If your is powder 1 then cannot laaa but u sure itis not lead-acid "MF" type ... ??

 

confirm. the mech tell me one... that time super4 u recon my lead acid batt before my solo leh... and i got ur ctek charger, which i reccomended to my khakis... u got other product to reccomend?

[limbat]

Cool mate then regular charging of your current powder battery will keep it in good shape & las longer...................