SBF Majesty 250/400 Cafe 2008

[Crydee]

Originally posted by bomerman81@Dec 19 2006, 06:41 PM

ok but per minute chargers would b $2/30mins........

 

[pickyvan]

Another aware of the 2007 model majesty 400 (fuel injection), how much is it selling ?

[Guest bomerman81]

Originally posted by Crydee@Dec 20 2006, 12:05 PM

:sweat:

[Guest bomerman81]

Originally posted by Crydee@Dec 20 2006, 12:04 PM

err..pls take note if a lady pillion is no longer butt massage..

[ah_huats]

Originally posted by pickyvan@Dec 22 2006, 06:09 PM

Another aware of the 2007 model majesty 400 (fuel injection), how much is it selling ?

Interesting question.

Think u hv to go around asking for quotes ba cos few Majesty Riders here ( as far as i know)

 

FYI, around 4 mths back, i was quote a second hand FY Majesty400 for 8500~9000 machine price (Cant remember the exact but it is around that price)

 

1st hand 400cc auto scooter, (Burgman, Silverwing) are in the 12~13k region.

[arjen]

Hi all YP250 rider.

 

Just Did a Fork oil/Seal/Dustcover change at Taihin for $120/-

and a brake pump kit change for $45/-

bike tend to wobble upon highway travelling at speed range 90+ and above,]

Anyone advice regarding this?

[firestorm_33]

Originally posted by arjen@Dec 23 2006, 07:29 PM

Hi all YP250 rider.

 

Just Did a Fork oil/Seal/Dustcover change at Taihin for $120/-

and a brake pump kit change for $45/-

bike tend to wobble upon highway travelling at speed range 90+ and above,]

Anyone advice regarding this?

wobble in wat sense? you might want to explain a bit more on your wobble ...... as it may indicate quite a fair bit of issues....

 

 

is it because of the strong wind that you feel that it's moving sideways?

cos Mj250 is quite a light scooter hence under strong wind it tends to sway.....

 

Anyway, balancer plays a part also.... cos before i put the bigger balancer, my bike is quite unstable when i move at 90..... tends to sway more but after changing, Better control and more stable.... esp when over taking......

 

[Guest bomerman81]

Originally posted by arjen@Dec 23 2006, 07:29 PM

Hi all YP250 rider.

 

Just Did a Fork oil/Seal/Dustcover change at Taihin for $120/-

and a brake pump kit change for $45/-

bike tend to wobble upon highway travelling at speed range 90+ and above,]

Anyone advice regarding this?

bro did u check ur tyre pressure, ur steering cone bearing, and oso ur wheel balancing?

 

All these do make an effect on ur front tyre to wobble.....

 

these is on top of what firestorm has replied u!!!!

[Guest bomerman81]

Originally posted by arjen@Dec 23 2006, 07:29 PM

Hi all YP250 rider.

 

Just Did a Fork oil/Seal/Dustcover change at Taihin for $120/-

and a brake pump kit change for $45/-

bike tend to wobble upon highway travelling at speed range 90+ and above,]

Anyone advice regarding this?

anything can PM or msg me @ 81253090 if u have anyu enquries!!!!!

 

if not juz go down to 494 macpherson rd will b there most of the time!!!

 

[Guest bomerman81]

MERRY CHRISTMAS N HAPPY NEW YEAR

[Guest bomerman81]

Season Greeting to all and a Merry Christmas.

[h_LoNg]

Going to build a set of tools to keep in my bike for emergency / DIY uses...

 

Any clues wat are the tools i sshould get?

[unocvin]

On your scoot, these would be enough and I pack them into a convenient pouch that is in the glove box. also have space for a tyre plug kit.

 

- 1 set ball-end allen key

- self gripping pliers

- ring and open end spanners 8 - 14 mm

- screw drivers flat and philips

- folding knife

- spare fuse

- cable ties

- some length of standard "black/red" electrical wire

- a roll of electrical tape

- small torch

- multimeter pocketsize (optional)

[unocvin]

One more thing ... get familiar with your scoot .. go to a bright spot and start to dismantle bit n pieces so you know what goes where. This way, you will know where to zero-in when things gets funny. time consuming tho ..

[h_LoNg]

Originally posted by unocvin@Dec 26 2006, 04:16 PM

One more thing ... get familiar with your scoot .. go to a bright spot and start to dismantle bit n pieces so you know what goes where. This way, you will know where to zero-in when things gets funny. time consuming tho ..

ok, thks for ur tips...

 

Haiz, seems like my bike have same prob as Sean Lo...

Now having heavy virbration whether i throttle off at very slow speed. Sometimes will also have a bit of sudden surge of jerk at the end of the vibration.

 

Would not encounter such vibration if speed is more than 30km+ leh...

 

Must go down botak and check liao

[unocvin]

ok.. what may be happening is grease from the rear pulley bearings seep into the clutch bell surface ... the surface contact become intermittent. But at a certain engine speed, there is enough momentum to keep the clutch shoes fully engaged with the clutch bell .. i will try and dig up some pictures ..

[h_LoNg]

Originally posted by unocvin@Dec 26 2006, 05:25 PM

ok.. what may be happening is grease from the rear pulley bearings seep into the clutch bell surface ... the surface contact become intermittent. But at a certain engine speed, there is enough momentum to keep the clutch shoes fully engaged with the clutch bell .. i will try and dig up some pictures ..

Wa, Chim

[unocvin]

how to post a pic in my reply? ... anyway; it is not that difficult .. ur regular mech should be able to open up and clean away the grease

[Guest bomerman81]

haha i oso not veri sure how to use ley.....

[momo1605198623]

Originally posted by unocvin@Dec 26 2006, 05:55 PM

how to post a pic in my reply? ... anyway; it is not that difficult .. ur regular mech should be able to open up and clean away the grease

on the reply or quote page there a box IMG click on tat & it will show -> </p><p> </p><p> follow by the URL of ur pics -> eg:http://www.gggggg.com</p><p> </p><p> then go to close all tags & it will add ->

 

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

another way is do file attachments @ the bottom part of ur reply or quote page

tat one can directly attach from ur coms.

all of us can click on tat to view the pics in another window but onli IE can view properly where FF will show letters & numbers.

 

 

 

 

[unocvin]

..hope it shows up nice..

[h_LoNg]

Originally posted by unocvin@Dec 27 2006, 10:03 AM

..hope it shows up nice..

Thks for the picture....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BUT, i still see no ball

[unocvin]

...hahahaha ... ok, actually, a manual transmission car will grease/oil on the clutch plates will display exactly the same symptom. Let me try again.

 

1) The rear wheel shaft is a sealed system with a set of bearings. These bearings are greased to protect it from seizing. What's keeping the grease in is an oil seal. Sometimes the oil seal gives way and grease leaves ....

 

2) The departed grease will now escape along the shaft till it finds it's way to the clutch assembly. At the end of the assembly is the clutch bell. Now the bell becomes a sort of a dispository for the grease.

 

3) With the little bit of grease on the surface; the friction on the clutch shoes and the bell inside surface becomes less than ideal at small throttle opening. so, you experience the effect of intermittent engagement because there is not enough friction for the clutch shoes to 'bite" the bell to spin the back wheel. +

 

4) Only at a bigger throttle opening (which give a higher centrifugal force) will the shoes be able to contact the inside surface of the bell to overcme the "slipperyness" of the grease.

 

5) Dismantle the back clutch, examine where the grease is escaping from. Clean the inside of the bell, sand it down a bit. Clean the clutch shoes and sand that down too. Assemble back and all should be fine ...

 

6) BTW, oil/grease on the variator and belt should produce the same condition - and that's easier to clean than the clutch!

[h_LoNg]

Originally posted by unocvin@Dec 27 2006, 11:09 AM

...hahahaha ... ok, actually, a manual transmission car will grease/oil on the clutch plates will display exactly the same symptom. Let me try again.

 

1) The rear wheel shaft is a sealed system with a set of bearings. These bearings are greased to protect it from seizing. What's keeping the grease in is an oil seal. Sometimes the oil seal gives way and grease leaves ....

 

2) The departed grease will now escape along the shaft till it finds it's way to the clutch assembly. At the end of the assembly is the clutch bell. Now the bell becomes a sort of a dispository for the grease.

 

3) With the little bit of grease on the surface; the friction on the clutch shoes and the bell inside surface becomes less than ideal at small throttle opening. so, you experience the effect of intermittent engagement because there is not enough friction for the clutch shoes to 'bite" the bell to spin the back wheel. +

 

4) Only at a bigger throttle opening (which give a higher centrifugal force) will the shoes be able to contact the inside surface of the bell to overcme the "slipperyness" of the grease.

 

5) Dismantle the back clutch, examine where the grease is escaping from. Clean the inside of the bell, sand it down a bit. Clean the clutch shoes and sand that down too. Assemble back and all should be fine ...

 

6) BTW, oil/grease on the variator and belt should produce the same condition - and that's easier to clean than the clutch!

Hmm, very detailed explaination...

can see some light liao

[Guest bomerman81]

Originally posted by unocvin@Dec 27 2006, 11:09 AM

...hahahaha ... ok, actually, a manual transmission car will grease/oil on the clutch plates will display exactly the same symptom. Let me try again.

 

1) The rear wheel shaft is a sealed system with a set of bearings. These bearings are greased to protect it from seizing. What's keeping the grease in is an oil seal. Sometimes the oil seal gives way and grease leaves ....

 

2) The departed grease will now escape along the shaft till it finds it's way to the clutch assembly. At the end of the assembly is the clutch bell. Now the bell becomes a sort of a dispository for the grease.

 

3) With the little bit of grease on the surface; the friction on the clutch shoes and the bell inside surface becomes less than ideal at small throttle opening. so, you experience the effect of intermittent engagement because there is not enough friction for the clutch shoes to 'bite" the bell to spin the back wheel. +

 

4) Only at a bigger throttle opening (which give a higher centrifugal force) will the shoes be able to contact the inside surface of the bell to overcme the "slipperyness" of the grease.

 

5) Dismantle the back clutch, examine where the grease is escaping from. Clean the inside of the bell, sand it down a bit. Clean the clutch shoes and sand that down too. Assemble back and all should be fine ...

 

6) BTW, oil/grease on the variator and belt should produce the same condition - and that's easier to clean than the clutch!

:thumb: