Knowledgeables please help with your inputs..

[RexMan]

Hi all,

 

I just got my Spec 1 about 2 weeks ago...since then, I got some problems with it that I find quite irritating...

 

--> When engine is cold, it starts on 1 push of the button. When hot and I want to start it again, it just wont start..it just cranks and cranks but won't start...I have to pull throttle a bit then the engine comes to life...What is the problem?

 

--> When moving off, like no power until it reaches 3k rpm then it starts to pick up quite fast...Why is dis so?

 

--> In relation to my 2nd question, if I wana make a U-turn somewhat, I hold the clutch at half and maintain my throttle..after abt 1-2 secs and moving slightly, the throttle revs up like nobody's business..This is especially irritating as I find it quite unsafe...

 

--> Is it normal when I clutch in and bring down my gears the bike will jerk? I didn't have this problem wif my previous bikes...

 

--? Lastly, my FC sucks...I pump 16 litres of Shell 98..now its reading 220 and I have one bar left...I'm not a racer...I just change gears at 4-5k rpm...highways abt 90-110...

 

 

Hope fellow forummers can help...Thanks in advance...

[loyjwe]

for FC, i also have the same problem, left 2 bar abt 210++ onli. but is already alittle better den b4 i pump my tires. do check the pressures

[nizam]

for FC, i also have the same problem, left 2 bar abt 210++ onli. but is already alittle better den b4 i pump my tires. do check the pressures

 

check pressure, chain slack and maybe its time service ur carb.. cheers.. hope this helps a bit..

[PaLmEr]

get your carbs checked. the jets may be worn out

[JbAtRaCeR]

 

--> When engine is cold, it starts on 1 push of the button. When hot and I want to start it again, it just wont start..it just cranks and cranks but won't start...I have to pull throttle a bit then the engine comes to life...What is the problem?

 

 

Its normal in hot start to open up the throttle abit for easier starting. Even the manual recommends to do so.

[loyjwe]

mine is totally different ley. mine cold start need abt 4 crank, hot start 1 time enough le. how come?

[rayhunter]

Its normal in hot start to open up the throttle abit for easier starting. Even the manual recommends to do so.

 

any idea does that refer to all specs??

[JbAtRaCeR]

any idea does that refer to all specs??

 

I read only the spec 3 manual not spec 1 or 2. Btw vtec model share almost the same engines so in my opinion it should be the same.

[RexMan]

Thanks for the inputs guys....neway wats the pressures i need to pump front and back...mine both are batlax tyres...

 

Where do i get reasonable service for my carb? I went wif a friend once at Changi Rd there...the mech take out, wash with some oil, put back then tune dunno what never use any meters...he listen and listen then he say okay liao...abit like real oni leh...

[loyjwe]

i think recommended is front 250 rear 290. ya seen mech tune like listening to music like tat. dun even know accurate anot. haha

[Ah Pek]

put back then tune dunno what never use any meters...he listen and listen then he say okay liao...abit like real oni leh...

 

...alamak..this is not a 4 cylinders 2 stroke bike lai!

[longjump]

wahh like same when i buy my spec 2 few months back... start when hot very difficult... moving off also lagging...

i got my carbs serviced n tuned...but got use meter at eunos there n i changed my sprocket n chain....

the mechanic also got blow blow my bike a lot of times n a lot of black smoke come out from exhaust..... he said my exhaust like choke like dat or maybe previous owner got mod the exhaust

[longjump]

i think rpm below 1k when idling make the bike difficult to start when hot... am i rite? my bike idling now arnd 1.1 to 1.3k like dat.. so far ok leh

[loyjwe]

from the maunal, ideal idling is 1.35, +- 100 is ok. so its between 1.25 to 1.45. so might consider ba. upz

[Ah Pek]

i think rpm below 1k when idling make the bike difficult to start when hot... am i rite? my bike idling now arnd 1.1 to 1.3k like dat.. so far ok leh

 

That I'm not sure but all I know is that the air to fuel mixtures is incorrect..and in this case, there is more fuel and it 'drowns' the spark. As your bike is stationary, there is no moving air and the air in the air box volume is not forcefully inducted to have a good mixtures..resulting in bad vaporising of fuel for good combustion. Ideally, 1.2 is minimum for idling...it may sound like using a lot of fuel than below 1 K but its not the case..its the amount of air that needed to be inducted into the inlet manifold is lacking...may be that's explains it. Also no that oxygen is the key to good combustion and a hot inlet manifold and air box in stationary status lacks sufficient oxygen (try breathing in a very hot room you know what I mean).

[ahboy_ahboy]

For FC, wash yur crab,

For tyre pump 220infront and 240behind

check your chain, did u oil it?

your timing good? if not petrol will just like yur timing (good means good bad means bad)

[Advrider]

--> When engine is cold, it starts on 1 push of the button. When hot and I want to start it again, it just wont start..it just cranks and cranks but won't start...I have to pull throttle a bit then the engine comes to life...What is the problem?

 

Did you check your sprak plug? It may be too rich. When I replaced the plug it was kind of black with slightly oil coated. I had my fuel-air mixture retune and now the problem solve.

 

 

--> When moving off, like no power until it reaches 3k rpm then it starts to pick up quite fast...Why is dis so?

 

Check you clutch cable bitting point. May need adjustment.

 

--> In relation to my 2nd question, if I wana make a U-turn somewhat, I hold the clutch at half and maintain my throttle..after abt 1-2 secs and moving slightly, the throttle revs up like nobody's business..This is especially irritating as I find it quite unsafe...

 

As above check you cable movement make sure it smooth may need lubbing.

 

--> Is it normal when I clutch in and bring down my gears the bike will jerk? I didn't have this problem wif my previous bikes...

 

Not normal.

 

--? Lastly, my FC sucks...I pump 16 litres of Shell 98..now its reading 220 and I have one bar left...I'm not a racer...I just change gears at 4-5k rpm...highways abt 90-110...

 

As Palmer suggested check your internals of your carb the parts may had been worn down and need replacement.

 

 

If you need tuning make sure you go to the mech with proper gauge rather than a person who just listens to the tuning.

[Ah Pek]

--> Is it normal when I clutch in and bring down my gears the bike will jerk? I didn't have this problem wif my previous bikes...

 

I should think so. Ths is a 4 stroke bike and depend on how you ride and shift gears with clutch and throttle coordination..you have to know your bike. What you are experiencing is just engine braking. You don't face the same problem with previous..if its a 2 stroke.

[Ah Pek]

--> When moving off, like no power until it reaches 3k rpm then it starts to pick up quite fast...Why is dis so?

 

Adjust your idling to at least 1.2k rpm if its not.

[Ah Pek]

--> In relation to my 2nd question, if I wana make a U-turn somewhat, I hold the clutch at half and maintain my throttle..after abt 1-2 secs and moving slightly, the throttle revs up like nobody's business..This is especially irritating as I find it quite unsafe...

 

Like Adrider said...check your cable running path..it make be 'obstructed' and gotten "pulled" when you turn your handle fully..if its okay..then slack or lubing has to been done...but likely its the cable layout path.

[bryan_LaZY]

Sorry to 'hijack' the thread, but i seriously need some advice....very troubled lately.

 

I got my spec1 last mth, nw the gasket can see EO leaking out. Not gushing out, but got leaked somewhere n i dunno where :giddy:

Plus the engine head there got tat 'tick tick tick' sound, is e valve thingy.

Izzit ok to cont riding e bike? worry e EO might leak finish then tt time mean SERIOUS problem....

 

 

i went to unique, they recommend me do a top overhaul. need change e timing chain, gasket, valves etc.... N nw i dunno wat might give way again...

 

Guys, dun mind pm me ur advices, or meet up n i can show u e condition, quite troubled over this for few days.

pls advice. Thanks alot in advance. :cry: :cry:

[Ah Pek]

Sorry to 'hijack' the thread, but i seriously need some advice....very troubled lately.

 

I got my spec1 last mth, nw the gasket can see EO leaking out. Not gushing out, but got leaked somewhere n i dunno where :giddy:

Plus the engine head there got tat 'tick tick tick' sound, is e valve thingy.

Izzit ok to cont riding e bike? worry e EO might leak finish then tt time mean SERIOUS problem....

 

 

i went to unique, they recommend me do a top overhaul. need change e timing chain, gasket, valves etc.... N nw i dunno wat might give way again...

 

Guys, dun mind pm me ur advices, or meet up n i can show u e condition, quite troubled over this for few days.

pls advice. Thanks alot in advance. :cry: :cry:

 

I don't see a need to do a top overhaul here but rather just a set of gasket replacement. For the ticking sound..if its loud and continuos and if eo level is correct..than that's another thing.

 

There is no harm for your current status to use the bike..just don't race it and keep your eo level correct. For the time being, do not use synthetic grade oil...next oil change use mineral 20/50w be great and keep the eo levl right. Do this and see if the tick tick sound goes away. If you want to use synthetic...choose the one with the highest number "w" like 10/40W etc..and get a vicosity enhancer like STP oil treament to thicken it further (1 tin to 4 litres eo)..should bring the vicosity closer to 50W.

[bryan_LaZY]

/quote "For the ticking sound..if its loud and continuos and if eo level is correct..than that's another thing."

 

The ticking sound is mild at start from cold, after riding, the sound is actually quite loud. anyway to remove e sound or wat could be e reason ah pek?

 

Quite low morale lately....

[Ah Pek]

/quote "For the ticking sound..if its loud and continuos and if eo level is correct..than that's another thing."

 

The ticking sound is mild at start from cold, after riding, the sound is actually quite loud. anyway to remove e sound or wat could be e reason ah pek?

 

Quite low morale lately....

I see. Mild ticking sound at cold start occassionally does happened and at some point in time would go away..than that's all right. This is so because shim or valve clearance are slight off and when it sits in again..the sound is gone. Also true that when eo thins out, you do hear more than normally would.

 

In your case, its likely that the shim or shims are out of spec or valves clearance is too wide already and the mech is right that the engine head has to come off to do the job. However, if the cam chain is not a problem but old already, you may or may not chain it. A bad cam chain or its tensioner (slippers like guide that suppressed the backlash) is bad..there are "thruking" kind of noise in the engine block.

 

At any rate..since you have to do the shim..I think the mech suggested might as well do it all. ..prepare for a $$$s job...but after its all done..damn shiok lah . Suggest you use good eo or good additive after that.

[bryan_LaZY]

Power la ah pek :thumb:

ur explanation boost my morale up man, think really gotta do it liao sure burn pocket.

 

really got tt 'thruking' sound or feeling, like a drum is beating tt type. Actually wat is tt? will it affect e piston? Dun mind explaining, think i must salute u or kopi next time.