[Archive] DRZ SM 2005-2010

[kaginah]

these are 10 commandments of Supermoto..

 

not comparing to just sports bikes.. street bikes too..

simple maintenance with lesser EO and sparkplugs..

 

 

the very first reason why i wanna switch back to thumper...

no more $100 plus for spark plugs

no more $80 to $100 oil change

[xbai87]

Having read through (some) of the old DRZ thread, it seems that the Zee can be lowered using Koubalink's lowering links. Maybe I'm doing the maths wrong, but it seems that it makes for a very unsubstantial difference (890mm to 850-860ish?). Also, does not come across to me that anybody has actually done this mod.

 

The Zee sounds like a great bike, but the ride height scares me .. so does the light weight and high centre of gravity which would bring about drifting on expressways.

[Navigator]

i'll be late.. you will change to Tenere already..

 

planning to get a 28L transparent and wrap it with black leather with a velcro tear off so that i can see the petrol level..

 

wei bro...my black tape...how? after cny??

[papabread79]

wei bro...my black tape...how? after cny??

Lava Orange need black tape meh?

[papabread79]

i'll be late.. you will change to Tenere already..

Hey Navigator,

 

U might want to correct him here...

[Raptor]

Having read through (some) of the old DRZ thread, it seems that the Zee can be lowered using Koubalink's lowering links. Maybe I'm doing the maths wrong, but it seems that it makes for a very unsubstantial difference (890mm to 850-860ish?). Also, does not come across to me that anybody has actually done this mod.

 

The Zee sounds like a great bike, but the ride height scares me .. so does the light weight and high centre of gravity which would bring about drifting on expressways.

 

The Zee can be ridden like a sports bike or a dirt bike. Nothing wrong with high CG if you know how to use it.

[kaginah]

does anyone know how much is motorworld selling this pipe?

i tried emailing them but no reply.

[zx10]

Having read through (some) of the old DRZ thread, it seems that the Zee can be lowered using Koubalink's lowering links. Maybe I'm doing the maths wrong, but it seems that it makes for a very unsubstantial difference (890mm to 850-860ish?). Also, does not come across to me that anybody has actually done this mod.

 

The Zee sounds like a great bike, but the ride height scares me .. so does the light weight and high centre of gravity which would bring about drifting on expressways.

 

bro we drift into corners.

 

if riding height scares u.. u should check who is levi sherwood..

[biting_point]

does anyone know how much is motorworld selling this pipe?

i tried emailing them but no reply.

 

abt $1.8k..

[xbai87]

bro we drift into corners.

 

if riding height scares u.. u should check who is levi sherwood..

 

No doubt that's why the bike's such fun ... but don't think I want to drift anywhere on the expressway. Is the Zee very susceptible to the effects of crosswind and draft?

 

Also, has anyone here actually lowered their Zee? Which workshop did you go? How much did it cost? And how has lowering the Zee affected handling/stability?

[SparkerS1]

Is the Zee very susceptible to the effects of crosswind and draft?

 

Also, has anyone here actually lowered their Zee?

 

crosswind? its the rider not the bike:cheeky:

 

can be lowered but i dunno anyone tat has done it, pls set bike suspension after lowering the bike for a more stable ride.

[Adam Brody]

Has anyone service their carburetor before? and how much does it cost?

[biting_point]

carb servicing ranges abt $30-50.. simple 1 port carb, any mech will do a good job..

total price depends whether you change any parts like o-rings, jettings, etc..

[overcrash]

abt $1.8k..

 

john, saw ur bike at ur relative's place! nv ask me go down eat bak kwa together lo!

 

anyway when got outing again and when you going track ? so i can plan when to get the track gears!

 

 

 

anyway on a side note, i changed my brake MC to Braking 16mm together with new hose... now when i brake, the bike will JERK to a stop instead of a SMOOTH stop...

 

when i off the engine and move the bike forward, it got a "metallic screeching" sound plus resistance... what's wrong ?

 

it only happened after i changed the MC and hose...

 

don't tell me time to change the front disc... anyone any idea ?

Edited February 16, 2010 by overcrash

[biting_point]

it should be normal.. but for better braking effect, change to braking disc...

 

this Sunday is track day.. and i'll be going.. wanna go shop for gears before that and join this Sunday???

[papermk]

Happu new year guyz haven't got time to come in to wish all of you.

 

Anyway guyz my bike like got prob. Everytime when starting I need press a lot of tim e and throttle for the to start.

Why so? And when parking my bike my fuel tap should turn to the "pft" side?

 

And what is the optimum temperature of the bike when moving cos my bike like very hot on the sides near my legs.

[overcrash]

it should be normal.. but for better braking effect, change to braking disc...

 

this Sunday is track day.. and i'll be going.. wanna go shop for gears before that and join this Sunday???

 

this sunday ? too fast la, but i dun mind going for shopping on friday/saturday! then join you guys on the next one ? best is if after 10/3, i ord liao, dun even need to report to CSM or wat crap when going overseas!

 

the brake normal meh?? i kinda feel that its more jialat than the stock MC / stock hose combi... =/ it jerks badly! not a smooth gradual stop! i am changing to braking la! next monday going motovation to change! after that go sporting do my forks! =D

[zx10]

No doubt that's why the bike's such fun ... but don't think I want to drift anywhere on the expressway. Is the Zee very susceptible to the effects of crosswind and draft?

 

Also, has anyone here actually lowered their Zee? Which workshop did you go? How much did it cost? And how has lowering the Zee affected handling/stability?

 

 

hmm.. x wind effect i did felt at times but very minimum due to no fairings i think.

 

rear sup can be lower and any workshop can do it.just some labour fees.

 

personally i did not lower my Zee so i cant comment on the after effect.anyway i dun think it will be a big diff.

[biting_point]

Happu new year guyz haven't got time to come in to wish all of you.

 

Anyway guyz my bike like got prob. Everytime when starting I need press a lot of tim e and throttle for the to start.

Why so? And when parking my bike my fuel tap should turn to the "pft" side?

 

And what is the optimum temperature of the bike when moving cos my bike like very hot on the sides near my legs.

 

what carb are you using?? If stock, have you changed your jettings??

try changing to JD kit, start bike early morning after a few days also need just 1 crank..

 

if you are using stock carb with vaccum hose, dun need to switch fuel tap, just keep it in the 9 o'clock position when parking..

 

6 o'clock is PRI, which is prime for using without the vaccum..

 

3 o'clock is RES, for using when you hit reserve tank.

after pumping, remember to switch it back to main..

 

what meter you are using?? if you are using stock meter, how you determine the temp???

bike is hot when you are running it too lean.. change of jettings may reduce the running temp..

or maybe you are wearing shorts that's why can feel the hotness..

[kaginah]

abt $1.8k..

 

thanks for the info buddy.

is it full system? or just the slip on?

[kaginah]

the lowering links can bring down the ride height on the rear but once that is done, the geometry of the bike is changed means the front will be higher. lowering the ride height plus not setting proper sag can cause the front fork to extend to top tower and that will give u very little traction. not safe. good examples are unwanted wheelies and slow corner entering.

work from the rear shock then to the front forks.

rear shock can set spring preload but mostly ppl will either change spring or the whole shock as the stock shock is really quite soft. (or i am too heavy)

 

once proper sag is achieved, you should then adjust front ride height by replacing the preload springs to appropriate rate. Dropping the clamps will lower a few cm's the most.

Shorty forks is another choice too.

 

front sag is usually more than rear.

[biting_point]

thanks for the info buddy.

is it full system? or just the slip on?

 

Yoshi only had full system for DRZ.. Same one I had on mine..

 

Wouldnt be crazy to pay $1.8k for a slip-on..

[biting_point]

the lowering links can bring down the ride height on the rear but once that is done, the geometry of the bike is changed means the front will be higher. lowering the ride height plus not setting proper sag can cause the front fork to extend to top tower and that will give u very little traction. not safe. good examples are unwanted wheelies and slow corner entering.

work from the rear shock then to the front forks.

rear shock can set spring preload but mostly ppl will either change spring or the whole shock as the stock shock is really quite soft. (or i am too heavy)

 

once proper sag is achieved, you should then adjust front ride height by replacing the preload springs to appropriate rate. Dropping the clamps will lower a few cm's the most.

Shorty forks is another choice too.

 

front sag is usually more than rear.

 

good info, that's why lowering links does not lower too much too.. there's a limit to your front fock lowering due to your handlebar, unless you are usign very high offset clamps..

 

proper suspension setup includes preload(DRZ is rear adjustable only, unless you change the springs..), compression and rebound.. to further tweak the front forks, using of different rating of fork oil maybe needed too..

[kaginah]

Yoshi only had full system for DRZ.. Same one I had on mine..

 

Wouldnt be crazy to pay $1.8k for a slip-on..

 

1.8 for slip on is crazy. thats why i'm asking for half system. but u already say no have.

its expensive! sobz...

not sure i should spend this money!! argh!

[kaginah]

good info, that's why lowering links does not lower too much too.. there's a limit to your front fock lowering due to your handlebar, unless you are usign very high offset clamps..

 

proper suspension setup includes preload(DRZ is rear adjustable only, unless you change the springs..), compression and rebound.. to further tweak the front forks, using of different rating of fork oil maybe needed too..

 

yeah. so if u are not too heavy like me and if the current height is ride-able then dun lower lah.

once lowered, many things need to come in.

headache..