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Posted

must know whether its stock carb or fcr39mx or something else.

u can open up ur seat or air box to see whether air box mod was done or not.

PAIR system u can see whether its there or not, no need to assume.

popping sound must check jettings liao.

check sprocket ratio perhaps, for pick up or crusing? it affects.

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Posted

think i just have to do a check on e above mention items by bro biting_point n post some pics for all e experts here to provide me a more accurate advises.....really thanx for all e info....:cheeky:

Posted

Guys i need a help here!

I gotta prob here wit my zee. I cant even start my zee unless i push start it but i wanna try to avoid that. For once i thought its because of some faulty in my spark plug or my batt is flat. But when i went to workshop last night, after some troubleshoot they say either my starter is faulty or my starter coil. Anyone got any prob wit this?. I just wish to install a kick start.

http://image.dirtrider.com/f/10124171/141_0808_02_z+ktm_xgames_14_race_report+supermoto_herfoss.jpg

Posted
will go get a canvas n cover up my bike. cos my area got a lot of itchy hands. those at night nothing better to do then like to disturb other ppl properties. last time my car jus for nothing e rubber for e window n e window kena scratch. once brought 4 pieces of black tyre caps then next day kena stolen...jus hope they r not interested on my bike canvas n actually i didnt c any1 leave any canvas ard e bike area also...so quite worried also......:sian:

 

get those canvas with metal ring holes, then get 2 small padlocks and lock ur canvas to ur bike. may think its a hassle. YES I THINK SO TOO. but when strangers start hitting/sitting on ur bike, im sure even if hassle u also will do it. :p

 

 

Want to find out what can i do to let my FC improve...?? My FC now actually only around 17-18km/L. Full tank run til around 126km to 136km must turn reserve tank already.

 

I know that actually there is a lot of factors that can causes e low FC. Just got my Zee not long ago & i actually dunno what e previous owner have done to e bike. what i can see from outside is:

 

1) He have change e ACCT to MCCT, change e carb but i dunno what brand n how big as e mech told me e carb come together with e yoshi full system.

 

ur carb cfm not stock. u can tahan the power?? xD envious*

oh well, looking at ur FC. pretty sure main thing is carb. if u wanna change back to stock carb, u will hit at least 23-32 km/l.

the lowest i got was like 19 km/l on a stock carb. with all the popping and dragging on top speed kind of stuff.

but change back to stock.... the drz wont feel as powerful as it is on a aftermarket carb. (correct me if im wrong)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/angelzero2/images.jpg
Posted
the terrain is great.. the bikes arent.. got lotsa trails there.. the guides there will ask if u wana go for e easy, medium or hard route.. those steep uphill & downhill trails aren't ATV-friendly.. price wise - depends on what bike u book, $45-120.. boat rides

 

Thanks bro..will try this Dec.....:)

Class 2B - 23 Sep 2008

Class 2A - 10 Nov 2009 Suzuki DRZSMK6 (DEC 09 - MAR 12)

Class 2 - 01 Feb 2011 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S (Mar 12 - Jan 16), Ducati Hypermotard 821 (Jan 16)

Class 3 - 06 Nov 1998

Class 4 - 25 Feb 1999

Class 5 - 16 Dec 2008

Posted

hey bros got a question here, just changed my jettings to JD together with keintech fuel screw and did 3x3 mod. using ktm twin air filter currently. the bike keep dying at traffic light occasionally and have problem starting the bike when the engine is HOT..my FC is affected too

 

Carb setting comes to mind but what other factor could affect this?is it advisable to change the air filter? spark plug issue?

 

help is greatly appreciated :)

Posted
5) Not necessary true.. improper jettings will cause deceleration popping too.. but you can check if the one circled in red is there.. that's the PAIR..

 

i dun think i saw e PAIR on my bike. if i m not wrong....

 

get those canvas with metal ring holes, then get 2 small padlocks and lock ur canvas to ur bike. may think its a hassle. YES I THINK SO TOO. but when strangers start hitting/sitting on ur bike, im sure even if hassle u also will do it. :p

 

I just brought a disc break lock with alarm that can sound as loud as 110db....but think will still get e canvas 1 day...

 

1) you could take a pic and post it up here.. most likely it's a FCR 39mm.. but whether it's a FCR1, 2 or 3, you gonna check with the experts..

 

ur carb cfm not stock. u can tahan the power?? xD envious*

oh well, looking at ur FC. pretty sure main thing is carb. if u wanna change back to stock carb, u will hit at least 23-32 km/l.

the lowest i got was like 19 km/l on a stock carb. with all the popping and dragging on top speed kind of stuff.

but change back to stock.... the drz wont feel as powerful as it is on a aftermarket carb. (correct me if im wrong)

 

my carb there written Boyesen Quickshot with e wording "FCR" engrave above it. but dunno whether it's a FCR1, 2 or 3 as mention by biting_point.

Posted
;6726603']hey bros got a question here, just changed my jettings to JD together with keintech fuel screw and did 3x3 mod. using ktm twin air filter currently. the bike keep dying at traffic light occasionally and have problem starting the bike when the engine is HOT..my FC is affected too

 

Carb setting comes to mind but what other factor could affect this?is it advisable to change the air filter? spark plug issue?

 

help is greatly appreciated :)

 

try to get opinion from a qualified mechanic.

 

first check if air filter fits properly since you mentioned it's from a KTM.. use proper and correct fitting air filter.. then also check if your sparkplug is due to change or not..

 

my carb there written Boyesen Quickshot with e wording "FCR" engrave above it. but dunno whether it's a FCR1, 2 or 3 as mention by biting_point.

 

wow!!! that's a after market accelerator pump that costs abt $300!! a upgraded FCR..

previous owner must be an adrenaline junkie!!

Posted

my bike suddenly died when i was free wheeling downslope with my clutch pulled in.it nvr happened before.what factors could have causes this?

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Posted

Guys i need a help here!

I gotta prob here wit my zee. I cant even start my zee unless i push start it but i wanna try to avoid that. For once i thought its because of some faulty in my spark plug or my batt is flat. But when i went to workshop last night, after some troubleshoot they say either my starter is faulty or my starter coil. Anyone got any prob wit this?. I just wish to install a kick start.

http://image.dirtrider.com/f/10124171/141_0808_02_z+ktm_xgames_14_race_report+supermoto_herfoss.jpg

Posted

Pay Abboy Motor Racing (Boy Johari) a visit and check it out. He is my race mechanic for the DRZ, Husqvarna and Y125Z.

 

As it is right now... the fastest FCR fitted DRZs that are racing in the last SMSA Bike Race Series at Pasir Gudang are tuned by him. Even a stock block engine DRZ with stock Mikuni carb ( dun waste your money on JD kits) that was tuned by him does 1min 55secs lap times at Pasir Gudang.

 

I think you can say this mechanic is good at tuning or that mechanic is good at tuning... to me, its lap times that talk. And at the shop, the trophies that are crowding the 2 shelves till they are sinking in the middle... is nothing but pure proof of the quality of the work.

 

Not trying to flame anyone or shoot anyone down... but I like to deal with facts.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1208-1.jpg

 

FAA licenced motorcycle mechanic :angel:

 

Add me: http://www.facebook.com/raptormotorsports

Posted
try to get opinion from a qualified mechanic.

 

first check if air filter fits properly since you mentioned it's from a KTM.. use proper and correct fitting air filter.. then also check if your sparkplug is due to change or not..

 

will do soon. anyways, any air filter to recommend for thumper?

Posted
my bike suddenly died when i was free wheeling downslope with my clutch pulled in.it nvr happened before.what factors could have causes this?

 

if it happens on multiple events and you find yourself very prone to stalling, my guess is that your clutch cables are wrong out. when infact you thought you've clutched in, your clutch cables might have lost their tension and instead the bike's still rolling on that gear waiting to die. yup, that's my guess, go have a mechanic check on your clutch cables if they're still tensioned.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/kohmm/IMG_3108-1.jpg
Posted
wow!!! that's a after market accelerator pump that costs abt $300!! a upgraded FCR..

previous owner must be an adrenaline junkie!!

 

heard fr e bike shop e previous owner spend quite a lot on e bike n after asking around other bike shops i think i get this bike at quite a reasonable price. see when u free we can have a short meet up cos i also wanna ask u something personally n also wanna let u see my bike to give me some advises......

Posted
heard fr e bike shop e previous owner spend quite a lot on e bike n after asking around other bike shops i think i get this bike at quite a reasonable price. see when u free we can have a short meet up cos i also wanna ask u something personally n also wanna let u see my bike to give me some advises......

 

how much did u purchase the bike for? roughly? and what plate?

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/angelzero2/images.jpg
Posted

Bros,

 

I'm currently using a Easton EXP Handle Bars; taperwall EXP handlebar and clamp set from Easton. The 8 bolt screws of the clamp set are of a concern; that they are rusty, disintergrating, and unsightly. I went to numerous hardware stores in search of these bolts but to no avails. They are 5mm Allen key heads and I was told that these are industrial screws. Does anyone here have sources on local manufacturers or stores that specialises in these industrial screws? thanks!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/kohmm/IMG_3108-1.jpg
Posted

Yong Seng Screws #01-04 AMK TECH 1, 3 Ang Mo Kio Industrial Park 2A, Ang Mo Kio

I got a set of stainless steel bolts for my hand guard clamps..

You can basically park there, go to the shop and borrow their tools to remove your screw/bolt, use their vernier calipers to measure the diameter/length readings and purchase on the spot. $ wise Reasonable few cents per piece.

Posted

First you need to understand that the pilot jet (idle jet) is in play when the throttle in fully closed. How rich or how lean a mixture is dependent on the number of turns out the fuel mixture screw (the slotted screw at the bottom of the carb) is set at. The more its backed out.. the richer the mixture.

 

Next is your idle adjustment screw... that affects the minimal throttle position... back that screw out and the throttle slide closes and if closed completely the engine quits. This screw affects the idle rpm... not the idle mixture setting.

 

When you say that the engine quits when you clutch in.. which also means that your throttle is fully closed also... can be due to that the idle screw is backed out too much... too low idle speed to sustain the rpms. Is your bike idling too low? Your pilot aka air jet may be too big or too small to give the correct fuel/air mixture to sustain the combustion and idling. Your fuel mixture screw may be incorrectly set.

 

Poor fuel mixture can also cause bogging or stalling.. fuel mixture is affected by throttle position, jetting size, needle position and taper.... this is all symptoms that can appear when at 1/4 to wide open throttle position.

 

If your clutch cable is too loose... you will have difficulty shifting gears or locating neutral at stop. Then engine might even stall and the bike jumps forward when you put in first gear. And if you clutch in and free gear.. the bike will not free gear but you will feel the engine braking as the transmission is not disengaged from the final drive.

 

If your clutch cable is too tight aka not enough play... you will suffer clutch slippage... ie rpm climb but bike don't move fast enough.. its like riding the bike with clutch partially pulled in. Gear shifting from first to idle is too easy and goes into gear 2 instead.

 

And no... clutch cables do not cause engine stalling with clutch in unless its just prior to a complete stop.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1208-1.jpg

 

FAA licenced motorcycle mechanic :angel:

 

Add me: http://www.facebook.com/raptormotorsports

Posted

Anyone's got problems with their Trail Tech Vapor meter? The digital display of my meter is gradually fading! The bottom half of my speedo readings are invisible now and do correct me if i'm wrong, i don't think it's the battery as it taps directly to my dry cell. Just curious to know if this issue has surfaced.. =)

Posted
First you need to understand that the pilot jet (idle jet) is in play when the throttle in fully closed. How rich or how lean a mixture is dependent on the number of turns out the fuel mixture screw (the slotted screw at the bottom of the carb) is set at. The more its backed out.. the richer the mixture.

 

Next is your idle adjustment screw... that affects the minimal throttle position... back that screw out and the throttle slide closes and if closed completely the engine quits. This screw affects the idle rpm... not the idle mixture setting.

 

When you say that the engine quits when you clutch in.. which also means that your throttle is fully closed also... can be due to that the idle screw is backed out too much... too low idle speed to sustain the rpms. Is your bike idling too low? Your pilot aka air jet may be too big or too small to give the correct fuel/air mixture to sustain the combustion and idling. Your fuel mixture screw may be incorrectly set.

 

Poor fuel mixture can also cause bogging or stalling.. fuel mixture is affected by throttle position, jetting size, needle position and taper.... this is all symptoms that can appear when at 1/4 to wide open throttle position.

 

If your clutch cable is too loose... you will have difficulty shifting gears or locating neutral at stop. Then engine might even stall and the bike jumps forward when you put in first gear. And if you clutch in and free gear.. the bike will not free gear but you will feel the engine braking as the transmission is not disengaged from the final drive.

 

If your clutch cable is too tight aka not enough play... you will suffer clutch slippage... ie rpm climb but bike don't move fast enough.. its like riding the bike with clutch partially pulled in. Gear shifting from first to idle is too easy and goes into gear 2 instead.

 

And no... clutch cables do not cause engine stalling with clutch in unless its just prior to a complete stop.

 

it's been a long time since you typed such a long reply!!

 

Saving it into my FAQ!!!

Posted
Anyone's got problems with their Trail Tech Vapor meter? The digital display of my meter is gradually fading! The bottom half of my speedo readings are invisible now and do correct me if i'm wrong, i don't think it's the battery as it taps directly to my dry cell. Just curious to know if this issue has surfaced.. =)

 

haha.. this question Uncle Angelo cannot answer!! :angel:

 

First, try to change the internal battery CR2032..

 

If that doesnt work, most likely the display spoilt..

you can try emailing Trailtech for technical help too, they are quite responsive..

 

how long have you been using your Vapor?

You can try if Trailtech can offer you an one to one exchange, just needa pay the shipping fees and wait..

Posted
how much did u purchase the bike for? roughly? and what plate?

 

$11500 inclusive of insurance TPFT. its a FBD plate. accessories wise have almost everything...i think. only i need to change e air filter. accessories that previous owner have spend on n done is too long to list...but when i m looking at e bike e 1st time e yoshi full system caught my eyes....lolz

Posted
;6728115']will do soon. anyways' date=' any air filter to recommend for thumper?[/quote']

 

BMC is good. reuseable

Class 2B - 23 Sep 2008

Class 2A - 10 Nov 2009 Suzuki DRZSMK6 (DEC 09 - MAR 12)

Class 2 - 01 Feb 2011 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S (Mar 12 - Jan 16), Ducati Hypermotard 821 (Jan 16)

Class 3 - 06 Nov 1998

Class 4 - 25 Feb 1999

Class 5 - 16 Dec 2008

Posted
$11500 inclusive of insurance TPFT. its a FBD plate. accessories wise have almost everything...i think. only i need to change e air filter. accessories that previous owner have spend on n done is too long to list...but when i m looking at e bike e 1st time e yoshi full system caught my eyes....lolz

 

very cheap sia......some more most of the items as been done up by the previous owner....Good Deal.

Class 2B - 23 Sep 2008

Class 2A - 10 Nov 2009 Suzuki DRZSMK6 (DEC 09 - MAR 12)

Class 2 - 01 Feb 2011 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S (Mar 12 - Jan 16), Ducati Hypermotard 821 (Jan 16)

Class 3 - 06 Nov 1998

Class 4 - 25 Feb 1999

Class 5 - 16 Dec 2008

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