SBF Silverwings / HOM Cafe 2012

[scoobydoo]

its the fruit of contributions from fella SWingers

[scoobydoo]

anyone tried Bel-Ray EO before... review?

 

http://www.belray.com/scripts/futurearts.dll?CollectImageFullsizeJpeg?loc=belray&moid=8435&w=150&h=300

[Kris Rider]

anyone tried Bel-Ray EO before... review?

 

http://www.belray.com/scripts/futurearts.dll?CollectImageFullsizeJpeg?loc=belray&moid=8435&w=150&h=300

 

Was using Bel Ray 21st Century before CHEMLUBE became available and found all Bel Ray products very good. This lot looks like improvement to the 21st century series and was available in some KL bike shops. No issue to try. Only complaints from some users that it gets too thin when hot and seeps through crank case jointings - probably also due to pressure build up. No issues with a well maintained water cooled engine like SW as the temperatures remain quite constant. Bel Ray also make very good fork oils & brake fluids (which i use).

[anodise57]

anyone tried Bel-Ray EO before... review?

 

http://www.belray.com/scripts/futurearts.dll?CollectImageFullsizeJpeg?loc=belray&moid=8435&w=150&h=300

 

I used on my bike previously

 

Extracted from my forum along with another VFR verdict

 

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/ProductImages/300/2007_Bel-Ray_V-Twin_Motor_Oil_--.jpg

 

Grade Rating 10w50

Bel-Ray V-Twin Synthetic Motor Oil is a fully synthetic, multi-grade, 4-stroke engine oil. It is formulated to provide the ultimate performance and protection for large displacement V-Twin engines. Unique anti-wear additives reduce valve-train wear, piston and ring scuffing and bearing wear. Outstanding oxidation, shear- and temperature stability ensure the optimum level of protection at the extreme temperatures that can be generated in V-Twin engines.

 

 

Motorcycle used

=> Suzuki Vstrom DL650 K4

Milege since EO change 6000km

 

 

Rider's say

=> Immediate smoothness after changing. Responsive on the gear changing and yet not compromising on the roar of the engine.

 

Used for trip up to cameron highlands with constant high rev 6k to 8k going uphill and downhill corners. It is rather impressive. There are not many E.Os out there which is dedicated to V-twin engine thus this is definitely a product to look out for if you are riding twins (be it whatever degree your V-engine orientation is)

---------------------------------------------------------------------

 

I must say I am rather impressed with Bel Ray EO

I noticed this brand quite a long time ago but the brand in SG seems to die off which makes me intially thought that Bel-Ray is just a passing by brand....until when Bel Ray resurface again ! (which I am glad it did or I will not be having the chance to use it )

 

Current EO using : Bel-Ray EXS Synthetic Superbike Motor Oil Series

Bike : Honda VFR 800 A6 (V4)

Mileage : I had changed the EO around the same time as Anodise57 did, less the cameron trip that I had to forgo (estimated 5000km)

 

I was amazed by the smooth reving of the bike when coming to high rev which I didnt expect it at all as mine is a V4 engine. With the amount of mileage that I had clocked, amazingly the condition of the bike makes me feel that I had like just changed my EO not long ago. This EO is lasting !

 

Seriously need to thank Motovation for giving us the chance to have a feel of Bel-Ray EO.

 

I am still thinking whether should i try the V-twin on my V4 and whether will it make any difference as V-twin is manufactured more focusely on the engine technology compared to a general EO...hrm....

 

:icon-thumbsup:

[spin37]

ATTENTION ALL SILVERWING RIDERS!!!

 

Hi fellow SWingers, im actually providing a service to all busy SWingers who do not have time to service their bikes.

 

Imagine relaxing @ ur sofa watching tv while ur bike is being service by the Mobile Mechnics Duos, me n my partner are Mobile Mechnics who are willing to come over ur place to service ur bike. Below are some of the services we can provide. Spares to be bought on ur own. (To avoid fraud n conflicts)

 

Crankcase servicing: Change of belt, U clip, Rollers (Clutch n variator servicing charge seprately)

Brake servicing: Change of brake pad (Front, Rear n Parking) n bleeding

 

Suspension servicing: Change of front fork oil

 

Change of oil/filter

 

Change of transmission oil

 

Change of coolant

 

Troubleshooting of most common problems

 

Any interested SWingers, do make an appt with us here, PM me.

 

Rdgs

Thks

 

 

i got my magnetto from FJT @ $260. Labour i got Issac to fix up for me and i learn at the same time. High temp. RTV silicone was used to put back the crankcase. I heard the original silicone withstand till abt 250 degrees only. The current silicone withstand up to above 300 degrees, so i tink its better. Now no leak and charging is back to normal.

 

[HelmetBOX1605198525]

i got my magnetto from FJT @ $260. Labour i got Issac to fix up for me and i learn at the same time. High temp. RTV silicone was used to put back the crankcase. I heard the original silicone withstand till abt 250 degrees only. The current silicone withstand up to above 300 degrees, so i tink its better. Now no leak and charging is back to normal.

 

 

wow seem like issac uses his profession on your bike.

hahaha...

[scoobydoo]

High temp. RTV silicone was used to put back the crankcase. I heard the original silicone withstand till abt 250 degrees only. The current silicone withstand up to above 300 degrees, so i tink its better.

noticed that the red one is used, and sparingly too... can see lots of excess being squeezed out upon tightening the bolts. outside no issue, but inside... heh heh. do a google and you'll find posts telling you some potential undesirable outcomes. in any case, proper finishing should have the unsightly excess cleaned up... easily job by using a pen knife; can also use wet cloth to wipe off before the glue "hardens".

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=108443&d=1244719224

 

 

no offense to isaac but...

imo, the so called inferior "original" silicone claim is probably baseless; does isaac know exactly which glue (and its spec) is used by honda at production? if not, claims that honda uses inferior sealant is nothing but baseless salesman talk.

not that i'm defending honda, but high temp silicone glues with >300deg specs are nothing special, in fact common and inexpensive. e.g. the US Permatex high temp red rtv silicone gasket costs only US$4.99 via amazon. there are lots of china makes with similar specs at probably lower prices, and only at a fraction when purchase in bulk.

 

 

just sharing my 0.00002c opinion

[spin37]

noticed that the red one is used, and sparingly too... can see lots of excess being squeezed out upon tightening the bolts. outside no issue, but inside... heh heh. do a google and you'll find posts telling you some potential undesirable outcomes. in any case, proper finishing should have the unsightly excess cleaned up... easily job by using a pen knife; can also use wet cloth to wipe off before the glue "hardens".

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=108443&d=1244719224

 

 

no offense to isaac but...

imo, the so called inferior "original" silicone claim is probably baseless; does isaac know exactly which glue (and its spec) is used by honda at production? if not, claims that honda uses inferior sealant is nothing but baseless salesman talk.

not that i'm defending honda, but high temp silicone glues with >300deg specs are nothing special, in fact common and inexpensive. e.g. the US Permatex high temp red rtv silicone gasket costs only US$4.99 via amazon. there are lots of china makes with similar specs at probably lower prices, and only at a fraction when purchase in bulk.

 

 

just sharing my 0.00002c opinion

 

He got manual lei, inside state the brand of the silicone. I did check out the silicone Honda uses. As for the excess on the inside, when he opened up the crankcase, inside oso got excess silicone from factory. I dont know wat it'll cause though. The silicone was also given a few hours to dry up b4 pouring in the oil.

 

The excess on outside i ask him dont clear away one, cos scared will leak from there again lei..haha

 

Its the workmanship that counts lo..

[scoobydoo]

if isaac has the specs, then of course is right to comment on honda foolishness to use inferior sealant, its time for them to update the manual and use better sealants.

btw, which year is isaac's service manual printed for? some of us are also looking for the manual but could only find those printed quite a few years back.

 

the excess sealant inside is unfortunately inevitable, and how much you see outside is probably how much is squeezed out inside. just hope that it doesn't drop off and cause problem to whatever that's inside. good workmanship will attempt to minimise the excess by applying what is sufficient, unlike squeezing the lot of tooth paste onto our toothbrush. when mine was opened up for resealing, the excess inside is also a lot (BS did the seal when i changed magneto); put a lot but still leak... %$^$

 

clearing the excess outside can DIY, optional and for aesthetic reasons, looks nicer nia. if dun mind, just leave them there. only portions that don't play a part in blocking the gaps should be cleared by cutting off, leaving "blockades" inside the gaps intact. never pull as the action might pull part of the required portions out, compromising the seal.

Edited June 12, 2009 by scoobydoo

[spin37]

if isaac has the specs, then of course is right to comment on honda foolishness to use inferior sealant, its time for them to update the manual and use better sealants.

btw, which year is isaac's service manual printed for? some of us are also looking for the manual but could only find those printed quite a few years back.

 

the excess sealant inside is unfortunately inevitable, and how much you see outside is probably how much is squeezed out inside. just hope that it doesn't drop off and cause problem to whatever that's inside. good workmanship will attempt to minimise the excess by applying what is sufficient, unlike squeezing the lot of tooth paste onto our toothbrush. when mine was opened up for resealing, the excess inside is also a lot (BS did the seal when i changed magneto); put a lot but still leak... %$^$

 

clearing the excess outside can DIY, optional and for aesthetic reasons, looks nicer nia. if dun mind, just leave them there. only portions that don't play a part in blocking the gaps should be cleared by cutting off, leaving "blockades" inside the gaps intact. never pull as the action might pull part of the required portions out, compromising the seal.

 

i cant remember wat year his manual was..but front cover states from yr 02 - 06 model. Its 600FSC manual. but inside consist of standard and ABS model..

 

U say BS did up ur seal but still leak. Shows their skill oso not so good. Well what can i say ? Not all mechanics are well trained. Even Perfor*ance Mo*or mechs, some are from China ! U tink B*W made in China ?

 

SG hard to find honest and skillful mech. One u can find is Meng Tong, who is currently working at Mah.

 

One of the most knowledgeable mech around !

[hilfiger]

Hi guys,

 

Anyone of u using a tinted visor for yr helmets? The sun's glare has been terrible and i find my eyes squinting all the time with my clear visor.

 

Where to get tinted visors for our helmets? Are there legal ones out there with at least 70% light transmittance?

[paithorn]

Tinted visor not allowed in sinagpore.... unless you use the VPS of Nolan....

 

Which helmet brand you using? Most good brands have tinted visors but supposed to use for Malaysia only....

[hilfiger]

Thinking of getting a new helmet (open-face) that can fit a tinted visor... i thought tinted visors can be legal if they are only up to 30% tinted?

[paithorn]

I can't be absolutely sure but I dun think it is allowed. The 75% and 25% VLTs are for cars' front windscreen & rear/side windows respectively.

 

I have just done a check on LTA website to no avail... you probably have to write in to clarify.

[hilfiger]

I got this link from another thread in this forum...

 

Tinted Visors for Helmets

 

Seems like anything tinted above 30% would get a fine of $50.

[scoobydoo]

i used to use a tinted visor (bought from LAB) for my MHR OF but took it out for safety reasons... good for the morning n evening sun but impairs visibility at night. better to use a sun glass or helmets with retractable sun-visors

[scoobydoo]

countdown... 6 days

 

 

1D Jason Bay/Pengerang Seafood/A&W Trip

Date: 20/06/2009 (sat)

Time: 0840~2000+hrs

(no need overnight visa )

 

Participants:

1. scoobydoo / 90112330 ... confirmed

2. helmetBOX! ... confirmed

3. SW9000 ... confirmed

4. Atlantic 200 ... confirmed

5. jsilverwing ... confirmed

6. Adr77 ... confirmed

7. paithorn ... spark or 100spark?

8. thatone1 & GF ...confirmed

9. Norick ... confirmed

10.

 

0840: meet at GP Petronas, gazz up & admin (NOK form)

... (please give allowance for jam at 2nd link customs)

0900: set off, ride leisurely via Kota Tinggi to Jason Bay (100km/avg 80kph)

1015: eta Jason bay

1045: coastal ride to Tg Pengelih customs jetty (93km/avg 70kph)

1200: eta Pengelih Jetty

1215: coastal ride to Sungai Rengit for seafood (18km/70kph)

1230~1500: seafood lunch, then "walk-about" & desert

1500: depart for A&W JUSCO Permas Jaya (105km/70kph)

1630~1830: eta JUSCO Permas Jaya, A&W & shopping

1830: set off for GP Shell/Petronas (45km/80kph)

flexible on return leg... can also go bike wash at JB and return via woodlands depending on participants wish

1920: eta GP Shell/Petronas

2000: eta Tuas customs

total distance covered from 2nd link is around 370+km

[scoobydoo]

good morning peeps

 

countdown ... 5 days

[Scarab]

good morning peeps

 

countdown ... 5 days

 

Frankly, have you ever tried going the places at the kinda speeds that you are quoting above? Getting cooked by the sun is one thing, but you'll have problem when you encounter heavy vehicles. To overtake or not to overtake. Bigger cc bikes will have no problem(subjective) but smaller ones will. If dun overtake hor, following behind a heavy vehicle is not a safe option as well.

 

Anyway, have fun and ride safe ya.

 

Btw, anyone swimming that day?

[QuietStorm]

any more DIY session coming up? need advice on Air Sync n grounding...

[thatone1]

Frankly, have you ever tried going the places at the kinda speeds that you are quoting above? Getting cooked by the sun is one thing, but you'll have problem when you encounter heavy vehicles. To overtake or not to overtake. Bigger cc bikes will have no problem(subjective) but smaller ones will. If dun overtake hor, following behind a heavy vehicle is not a safe option as well.

 

Anyway, have fun and ride safe ya.

 

Btw, anyone swimming that day?

Yup Scarab is right for his opinion...

 

For me i'll take the lead of the first bike.. so whoever 1st bike prompt to overtake i'll follow too if not i get lost!! =(

[scoobydoo]

hi big bro scarab, thanks for the advise...

 

yup, considered those issues you mentioned. average speed is needed for planning purposes, otherwise cannot have eta timings liow. slower SOA are used on purpose coz its better to be ahead of schedule than to be running falling short most likely we'll be faster (but safely) along E3, some parts of pasir gudang hw, and the long stretches from jln kota tinggi, jln mawai, jln jemaluang to kg teluk jeri whenever its clear and safe to do so.

like someone said... also scared HelmetBOX! cannot tahan... whahaha

 

took that route last year (up to kg haji before breaking left for mersing); while some parts will be slower due to traffic (especially perling area, most of jalan pandan), there're some nice stretches we can go faster without compromising safety. main worry now is the stretches down along the coast from jason bay to kg sungei rengit, totally no idea about the road conditions... but regardless, safety will always come first

 

have you tried that stretch? pot holes many many or smooth as F1 track?

[scoobydoo]

For me i'll take the lead of the first bike.. so whoever 1st bike prompt to overtake i'll follow too if not i get lost!! =(

won't get lost one lah... the route is mainly "straight" stretches except when entering the towns. as long as everyone keep a lookout for each other... we'll be ok

see route map http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Pengerang%20Trip%20May%202009/PengerangTrip_Jun2009.jpg?t=1245047185

[Scarab]

Apa big bro... me just simple ride ride here and there nia...

 

Potholes are usual for those kinds of roads but not really big enough scare the daylights out of you. The things you need to worry about is sand, so, as far as possible, avoid the road shoulders when you're cornering.

 

One more thing, when they resuface the road, their warning sign sometimes abit too near to the site, so by the time you see the sign, you're on gravel liao. Kena a few times to Mersing and to Desaru. Slow down if you can but never e-brake, you'll know what happen if you do...

 

Anyway, you're all not 1st timers, you'll know what to do...Have fun.

[SW9000]

won't get lost one lah... the route is mainly "straight" stretches except when entering the towns. as long as everyone keep a lookout for each other... we'll be ok

 

As usual, base on cornering skill and wrist strength... I'll be the sweeper!