[Technical] Engine Oil - All related matters in EO

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Hi Bro Kalyan. I thought 15W50 is more quieter than 10W40 right? How come u said 10W40 is quieter than 15W50? Hmmm.... Now i confused...

 

Mineral EO - 40 will be quieter than 50, because the lighter 40 has less pumping drag. Better fuel economy but protection during prolonged high throttle or "race conditions" reduced.

 

Hybrid cars use very, very thin oil - 0 weight also got. Note that hybrids don't really rely on the petrol engine for propulsion unless you floor it on the autobahn. In city driving you can drive on electric mode alone = light duty engine.

 

Some mad people who use Ferraris for daily driving use 0W20 in their cars to save fuel, since they don't intend to bring their supercars to the track.

 

Synthetic EO - whole different ballgame altogether. Performance is really brand dependant because of the more advanced formulations.

 

Synthetics (refer to engine oil bible) always have less pumping drag, superior performance at both cold starts and wide open throttle.

 

However between a 10W40 and 10 or 15W50 synthetic, 40 is quieter. (I have used both)

 

I don't really care for the first number since we don't deal with winter temperatures. Just warm it up and the oil becomes a "40" or "50" in characteristics.

[RxzDelux]

Gonna try motul and NASA next time round ;D using chex9000 for 1 year already..

 

I tried Motul and NASA already but both the semi ones ar. Chex9000 10W50 now presently using.

 

Reviews on my bike.

Chex9000 10W50 - What make me curious to try is because of the price. When i first change it, i dun really like it. It feels like heavy but after 2 days i beginning to loike it a lot. Bike is very light and responsive. Mileage wise dun know yet.

 

Motul 5100 15w50 - Bike is Responsive but the mileage cannot make it.

 

NASA CL 20W50 - Hmm this one i change at Johor. Not bad. Smooth. I loike it very much. This one is for the hard on economy i mean the pockets. Change at Johor quite cheap though. Mileage is slightly better than Motul 5100 15W50.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Motul 5100 15w50 - Bike is Responsive but the mileage cannot make it.

 

 

Haha motul 5100 on my bike = half of it evaporates away after 2 days. Remember I run wide open throttle on custom tuned motor = oil tak boleh tahan!

[RxzDelux]

Haha motul 5100 on my bike = half of it evaporates away after 2 days. Remember I run wide open throttle on custom tuned motor = oil tak boleh tahan!

 

That is why i say the mileage cannot make it. It can tahan only abt 900km on a liquid cooled bike after that the engine turns rough riding. What's more on your bike Bro Kalyan? Your bike is air cooled right? Air cooled bike definitely requires a better engine oil than this Motul.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

That bad! Gotta flag the 5100 for light duty only then - your much more modern FZ150i is definitely kinder on the oil than our dinosaurs lol!

 

ps, next time you see a 5100 bottle can check the specification?

 

Chex is API SM and that might explain its superior performance. I have seen a lot of SF, SG, etc in shops and these are very old standards.

[RxzDelux]

That bad! Gotta flag the 5100 for light duty only then - your much more modern FZ150i is definitely kinder on the oil than our dinosaurs lol!

 

ps, next time you see a 5100 bottle can check the specification?

 

Chex is API SM and that might explain its superior performance. I have seen a lot of SF, SG, etc in shops and these are very old standards.

 

Yes saw it already Bro. I read the whole thing at the back bottle when i change the engine oil. Its rated API SG and Made in France.

[thechosenx]

Hmm I was wondering anyone you guys used amsoil EO before? I read the reviews and it is not a perforamance EO but I protects very well tho. I will try it for my next EO after my Motul reaches 2k mileage.

[ahcaibiker]

hey there guys... posting after a long time being MIA... see got a number of new blood posting in pk section which is good la... :thumb:

 

My ride is currently on Motul 5100 for >6000km since feb/march 2010, still very responsive, gear shifting all silky smooth.

FYI, i ride a TA150. hahaha!

 

disclaimer: do NOT try it on your TA200, i will not bear any responsibility for any kind of consequences that may happen to your ride.

[thechosenx]

I heard from my friend which he is using 2 stroke bike. It is alright because it uses 2t.

[Silent Hunter]

Anyone got try to mix synthetic with mineral?

What will happen if we do?

I remembered someone asking the question, but nobody had a definate answer for it,, as far as I know, it becomes semi-synthetic!

[ahcaibiker]

I heard from my friend which he is using 2 stroke bike. It is alright because it uses 2t.

 

give your friend and yourself a pat on the back, at least you do know the basics.

 

 

 

4 stroke engine - EO lubricates piston, cylinder wall and transmission = EO subjected to higher stresses and temp which means necessary frequent and regular oil changes.

 

2 stroke engine - EO only lubricates the transmission, lubrication of piston and cylinder wall is the job of 2T, using good 2T is crucial and the answer to longer engine life with assured better performance.

 

heard stories of 2 stroke bike never change EO for 2 years or more, no problem! :angel:

 

 

 

Motul 5100 4T - does a more than decent job as my transmission oil. (should i give proper gear oil a try in the near future?)

 

Motul 710/800 factory line 2T - yes, they are rather costly (>$22/litre) but i don trust $6 cheapo strawberry flavoured 2T... nuff said.

[thechosenx]

Anyone got try to mix synthetic with mineral?

What will happen if we do?

I remembered someone asking the question, but nobody had a definate answer for it,, as far as I know, it becomes semi-synthetic!

 

Yup I guess it is better to get "pre-mixed" semi-synthetic from brands because its safe and they know what they are doing? If im not wrong Bel-ray is 60% Syn and 40% mineral.

[thechosenx]

give your friend and yourself a pat on the back, at least you do know the basics.

 

 

 

4 stroke engine - EO lubricates piston, cylinder wall and transmission = EO subjected to higher stresses and temp which means necessary frequent and regular oil changes.

 

2 stroke engine - EO only lubricates the transmission, lubrication of piston and cylinder wall is the job of 2T, using good 2T is crucial and the answer to longer engine life with assured better performance.

 

heard stories of 2 stroke bike never change EO for 2 years or more, no problem! :angel:

 

 

 

Motul 5100 4T - does a more than decent job as my transmission oil. (should i give proper gear oil a try in the near future?)

 

Motul 710/800 factory line 2T - yes, they are rather costly (>$22/litre) but i don trust $6 cheapo strawberry flavoured 2T... nuff said.

 

Should try Amsoil, Im fascinated at what it claims on their web site. Check out this 10W40 4T EO from amsoil, the "High Temperature Viscosity Protection" chart.

 

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcf.aspx

[ahcaibiker]

hi just wondering of any you guys here tried ah pek's special x1r EO blend on your phantom before. apparently receiving very good reviews from S4 riders.

 

for those who tried it, any difference from the maxima, motul 300v, chex 9000 or any of the off-the-shelf EO?

[VidaK]

hi just wondering of any you guys here tried ah pek's special x1r EO blend on your phantom before. apparently receiving very good reviews from S4 riders.

 

for those who tried it, any difference from the maxima, motul 300v, chex 9000 or any of the off-the-shelf EO?

 

I use x1r as recommended by ah pek. it sure is smooth... I add some x1r to my eo every alternate oil change

[ahcaibiker]

I use x1r as recommended by ah pek. it sure is smooth... I add some x1r to my eo every alternate oil change

 

erm... what i mean is not just by adding x1r to your EO... ah pek has his own special blend of EO mixed with x1r, apparently it's some kind of car EO which he buys from his supplier in barrels so one can imagine how many gallons of EO is in one barrel...

 

as for the ratio of EO : x1r, i supposed it's an closely guarded secret of ah pek?

[icearmour]

Should try Amsoil, Im fascinated at what it claims on their web site. Check out this 10W40 4T EO from amsoil, the "High Temperature Viscosity Protection" chart.

 

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcf.aspx

 

had used this....it's quite good initially, now time to change as engine feels rough...probably today...smooth gear change is main highlight...but top speed suffered....

[thechosenx]

Yeah im currently using Amsoil too. I really loved the way it feels.

[Icomeforyou]

Currently been using SPC motor oil, not sure if ACE or ALpha (its 10/bottle) because i service at SPC...

 

Well, drinks quite alot of EO, 1 liter lasts roughly 4 weeks? But i travel from Marsiling to Suntec 6 days a week, so it could be because I ride alot too. But the engine is overall quite smooth, can hit 90-100km/h quite comfortably but that's about it. Gear finding is also smooth...

[ahcaibiker]

Currently been using SPC motor oil, not sure if ACE or ALpha (its 10/bottle) because i service at SPC...

 

Well, drinks quite alot of EO, 1 liter lasts roughly 4 weeks? But i travel from Marsiling to Suntec 6 days a week, so it could be because I ride alot too. But the engine is overall quite smooth, can hit 90-100km/h quite comfortably but that's about it. Gear finding is also smooth...

 

an normal engine should not be 'drinking' E.O... 1 litre drink finish in a month? something is wrong... i will suggest bring to planet for a check up.

[jtzx]

Ta200 drink engine oil is normal.. but 1mth 1L of oil gone = engine most likely must overhual already....

[Wooolala]

hi guys I have a bottle of 4 litre Synace 5W40 Fully Synthetic Motor Oil from SPC... issit suitable for silverwing after running in? or this is for cars not for bikes de...??

[naim]

guys.. my ta200 running on Chex 9000 now.. its been about 2000km now over the past 2 mths, my EO seems to dry up real quick.. i topped up a total about 1L of Chex 9000 already... i've tried running a little rich to run a little cooler (turn the screw clockwise right? just to confirm) but still no difference.. top up a little about every week... any idea whr my EO goes? i doubt its d piston area, cux thr is no white smoke..

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Have discussed/researched the synthetic oil 'disappearing' issue since @ezzyoiler brought it up way back in April at the clinic sessions.

 

With some 'field experience' it seems piston ring seal is a contributing factor here. I did an engine rebuild and ran it in race-style to guarantee maximum ring seal (hence max compression and torque). Progressing from mineral to semi synthetic and finally to Chex 9000 after 4000km = the ability to ride wide open throttle all day and no oil consumption.

 

However, an older non-rebuilt motor may not be compatible with an immediate switch to full synthetic and will have better results with semi synthetic like Motul 5100. Which is powerful, smooth and protects much better than the cheaper oil. You may also try Motul 3100 mineral which is cheaper but lasts shorter... but enough for the thousand mile oil change interval.

 

Personally though, I have had consumption issues with Motul and the switch to German technology solved all of it. Specifically, this is due to the synthetic oil's greater high temperature stability because I am the infamous destroyer of motor oil

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Have discussed/researched the synthetic oil 'disappearing' issue since @ezzyoiler brought it up way back in April at the clinic sessions.

 

With some 'field experience' it seems piston ring seal is a contributing factor here. I did an engine rebuild and ran it in race-style to guarantee maximum ring seal (hence max compression and torque). Progressing from mineral to semi synthetic and finally to Chex 9000 after 4000km = the ability to ride wide open throttle all day and no oil consumption.

 

However, an older non-rebuilt motor may not be compatible with an immediate switch to full synthetic and will have better results with semi synthetic like Motul 5100. Which is powerful, smooth and protects much better than the cheaper oil. You may also try Motul 3100 mineral which is cheaper but lasts shorter... but enough for the thousand mile oil change interval.

 

Personally though, I have had consumption issues with Motul and the switch to German technology solved all of it. Specifically, this is due to the synthetic oil's greater high temperature stability because I am the infamous destroyer of motor oil