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Posted
If its me I'll put down my side stand, walk to your bike and give u a hug. But then you'll probably blow at me and ride off... fast. :cheeky::cheeky:

 

good one. lol

:angel::sian:
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Posted
If its me I'll put down my side stand, walk to your bike and give u a hug. But then you'll probably blow at me and ride off... fast. :cheeky::cheeky:

 

lolX . indeed a good one which i dun think you wil ever do it =D so far i have seen a couple of CBR at my estate but yet to speak or see the rider themselves .

Posted
lolX . indeed a good one which i dun think you wil ever do it =D so far i have seen a couple of CBR at my estate but yet to speak or see the rider themselves .

Actually I would.. if its a cute lady biker who stops and smile... :shy:

 

But then again, she would probably kick me, kick down my bike for good measure, then ride off screaming. Hahaha :sian:

"The hunter must hunt. The moment he stops he becomes the hunted.

Strive, reach, and take. Then you shall not be taken"

Riding Since:

Class 2B - 28 Apr 1994

Class 2A - 30 Jun 2009

Posted
as original R model dun have the headlight switch, i believe most of us riding R model here do change it to the switch kind, but melts often due the the headlight voltage, so dunno if advisable to switch to white light...as time i am using white light, switch melted twice, as such change back to normal once..

 

with headlight abt 12 - 13v (while riding)

without abt 14 +

 

Make sure your CBR can tahan the voltage k. If not, it can really fry the wiring. but ... can someone enlighten me on the voltage? coz i dun remember liao :cheeky:

 

is the watt of the bulb that determine on the condition of the switch or even wiring..

watt is the product of voltage and current..

so the voltage for a bulb normally is 12V for a bike..

so for a 60W bulb will need a 12V and 5amp(current) to work..

if a 110W bulb instead, 12V and 9amp will be needed..

stock bulb is onli 35W for low beam and 60W for high beam..

the switch and wiring is onli design for that small amount of current..

high current flow on a stock wire will generate heat and melt the wire/socket..

the casing in the headlight will melt too and blur over time if the heat generate by the bulb is too high..

that y ppl use HID instead as it generate low heat and produce bright lights to wake the dead..

:)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/fx110/spareparts/NC29rearrim.jpg

just curious to know :cheeky:+

 

which parts of it?

 

maybe he talking abt part 6..

the hole that hold the bearing get widen due to the spoil bearing and new original bearing cannot fit nicely.. will spoil at a faster rate..

:)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted
is the watt of the bulb that determine on the condition of the switch or even wiring..

watt is the product of voltage and current..

so the voltage for a bulb normally is 12V for a bike..

so for a 60W bulb will need a 12V and 5amp(current) to work..

if u guys are a 110W bulb, 12V and 9amp will be needed..

stock bulb is onli 35W for low beam and 60W for high beam..

the switch and wiring is onli design for that small amount of current..

high current flow on a stock wire will generate heat and melt the wire/socket..

the casing in the headlight will melt too and blur over time if the heat generate by the bulb is too high..

that y ppl use HID instead as it generate low heat and produce bright lights to wake the dead..

:)

Hmm... informative. Any idea what is the safe watt limit for normal halogen bulbs that our wiring/casing can tahan?

 

Need to replace one bulb, about to blow already. Or should i just go for HID? (since i just inspected and renewed roadtax today.... hehe)

"The hunter must hunt. The moment he stops he becomes the hunted.

Strive, reach, and take. Then you shall not be taken"

Riding Since:

Class 2B - 28 Apr 1994

Class 2A - 30 Jun 2009

Posted
Hmm... informative. Any idea what is the safe watt limit for normal halogen bulbs that our wiring/casing can tahan?

 

Need to replace one bulb, about to blow already. Or should i just go for HID? (since i just inspected and renewed roadtax today.... hehe)

 

by design, the higher limit is 20 to 30% higher than the stock..

but due to the age of the wire, is safe to use the stock bulb..

if u insist on using higher watt bulb, is better use a relay to protect the wire and the switch..

:)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted
by design, the higher limit is 20 to 30% higher than the stock..

but due to the age of the wire, is safe to use the stock bulb..

if u insist on using higher watt bulb, is better use a relay to protect the wire and the switch..

:)

Thanks! Will keep that in mind when i go lights-a-hunting. :cheeky:

"The hunter must hunt. The moment he stops he becomes the hunted.

Strive, reach, and take. Then you shall not be taken"

Riding Since:

Class 2B - 28 Apr 1994

Class 2A - 30 Jun 2009

Posted
is the watt of the bulb that determine on the condition of the switch or even wiring..

watt is the product of voltage and current..

so the voltage for a bulb normally is 12V for a bike..

so for a 60W bulb will need a 12V and 5amp(current) to work..

if a 110W bulb instead, 12V and 9amp will be needed..

stock bulb is onli 35W for low beam and 60W for high beam..

the switch and wiring is onli design for that small amount of current..

high current flow on a stock wire will generate heat and melt the wire/socket..

the casing in the headlight will melt too and blur over time if the heat generate by the bulb is too high..

that y ppl use HID instead as it generate low heat and produce bright lights to wake the dead..

:)

 

quite hard to find the 12V 60/35W.

 

I am using the 12V35/35W currently.

 

 

maybe he talking abt part 6..

the hole that hold the bearing get widen due to the spoil bearing and new original bearing cannot fit nicely.. will spoil at a faster rate..

:)

 

noted :)

Posted

yeay aalex ur rite...tats the part the bearing wear off....do i nid to change the whole rim wit hub??

Too bad that all the people who really know how to run the country are busy driving taxi cabs and cutting hair.......:slapforehead:

Posted
anywan wants to go ah boy there buy things now?

 

I just went there just now. :cheeky:

 

If its me I'll put down my side stand, walk to your bike and give u a hug. But then you'll probably blow at me and ride off... fast. :cheeky::cheeky:

 

:faint::lol:

 

is the watt of the bulb that determine on the condition of the switch or even wiring..

watt is the product of voltage and current..

so the voltage for a bulb normally is 12V for a bike..

so for a 60W bulb will need a 12V and 5amp(current) to work..

if a 110W bulb instead, 12V and 9amp will be needed..

stock bulb is onli 35W for low beam and 60W for high beam..

the switch and wiring is onli design for that small amount of current..

high current flow on a stock wire will generate heat and melt the wire/socket..

the casing in the headlight will melt too and blur over time if the heat generate by the bulb is too high..

that y ppl use HID instead as it generate low heat and produce bright lights to wake the dead..

:)

 

Bro, I was told that R-model harness cannot fit the L-model headlight switch(the left hand side switch assembly). Is this true? :confused:

 

Hmm... informative. Any idea what is the safe watt limit for normal halogen bulbs that our wiring/casing can tahan?

 

Need to replace one bulb, about to blow already. Or should i just go for HID? (since i just inspected and renewed roadtax today.... hehe)

 

Use 12V 35W/35W, fx110 intro me one, very good one. :thumb:

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/9845/skeletonnc29.jpg
Posted
yeay aalex ur rite...tats the part the bearing wear off....do i nid to change the whole rim wit hub??

 

I dun think need to change the whole rim bah, coz the cush drive is sort of protecting the rim rite. Try ask that guy selling the rim to just sell you that part lah. Or you can call HKL and ask them if they have that part, I know they are breaking a CBR.

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/9845/skeletonnc29.jpg
Posted (edited)

Use 12V 35W/35W, fx110 intro me one, very good one. :thumb:

Thanks, will look for that if i'm using back bulbs. :angel:

 

*But most likely, after seaching through the available options.... think i may get HID instead... Hmm.

Edited by nightsteed

"The hunter must hunt. The moment he stops he becomes the hunted.

Strive, reach, and take. Then you shall not be taken"

Riding Since:

Class 2B - 28 Apr 1994

Class 2A - 30 Jun 2009

Posted
;5615900']i used white light b4. after that my high beam goes dead. but now if it goes dead. just rev abit the headlight will be on. lol anyone know what's wrong with it ?

 

 

how much you spend ?

 

Couldn't remember it was like 7 months ago..Sorry

Posted
Saw a white and pink CBR just now, 1st time the rider smile back when I smiled. Usually if I smiled at a fellow CBR he'll blow at me and ride off. :cheeky:

 

I think your smile to them is to race..Haha :p

Posted
coolday and blythe , where you guys stay ?

 

hougang ave 10....how about u bro?

 

nvm la.. just give those cars a damn good scratch..lol..

 

 

 

i very long never go clubbing or go pubbing liao leh.. miss those times.. next month we go drinking la.. lol

 

 

 

 

 

ya.. i also never buy season parking de for 3 yrs liao..lol.. even though kena fined i also save a lot.. lol

 

 

 

 

ya la.. i also very lonely.. every since i riding wave no one jio me out liao.. sad sia i all so "xian shi" de.. lol.. scally my wave tia u all ar.. better be careful.. hahaha

 

i friendly de...won anyhow scratch cars one haha.....

 

not xian shi...is so happen i been busy den the outing all postponed so i didnt do planning to take any leave or off.....

 

haha.... so far haven kanna at my house here ar.. cos i canvas my bike...

 

i too lazy to put the canvas every night....den morning have to take out and fold again....i just too lazy to do that...haha:sleep::sleep::sleep:

 

Hi guys.

 

Just starting to get used to my '92 N model. Right now slowly reading through previous posts in this thread (some are very informative) and the Haynes Manual for blades...

 

Mind if i lurk around and ask noob questions occasionally? :cheeky:

 

no questions is too noob bro.....welcome to the family....

July2004 - dec2007 ->NSR150SP (FU**29B)

April2008 - April2010 ->CBR400RRR (FP**86R)

April2010 - April 2011 ->SYM GTS200(FBB**09U)

April2011 - Currently ->S4SPEC1(FT**56J)

 

If you think you are beaten, YOU ARE

if you think you will lose, YOU HAVE LOST

if you think you cant, YOU DEFINATELY WON'T

SUCCESS only comes to the man WHO BELIEVES HE CAN!

Posted
I think your smile to them is to race..Haha :p

 

How can a smile be invitation to race? :faint::lol:

 

Anyway guys saw this online.

 

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/g17-generator-stator-alternator-honda-yamaha-nsr250-bros-400-nc25-cb1-400-nc27-cbr400-nc29-cbr400rr-nc23-vfr400-nc24-atv-pilot-tzr250v-944-0.html

 

The coil is only ard SGD190 including shipping. FJT selling ard SGD230 rite?:confused:

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/9845/skeletonnc29.jpg
Posted
I think your smile to them is to race..Haha :p

 

haha...they run off cause scared.....

July2004 - dec2007 ->NSR150SP (FU**29B)

April2008 - April2010 ->CBR400RRR (FP**86R)

April2010 - April 2011 ->SYM GTS200(FBB**09U)

April2011 - Currently ->S4SPEC1(FT**56J)

 

If you think you are beaten, YOU ARE

if you think you will lose, YOU HAVE LOST

if you think you cant, YOU DEFINATELY WON'T

SUCCESS only comes to the man WHO BELIEVES HE CAN!

Posted
How can a smile be invitation to race? :faint::lol:

 

Anyway guys saw this online.

 

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/g17-generator-stator-alternator-honda-yamaha-nsr250-bros-400-nc25-cb1-400-nc27-cbr400-nc29-cbr400rr-nc23-vfr400-nc24-atv-pilot-tzr250v-944-0.html

 

The coil is only ard SGD190 including shipping. FJT selling ard SGD230 rite?:confused:

 

Whose into racing??? lolx. My bike currently in a shop tp solve some electrical issue. RPM dun wanna hit above 9 and response really like driving a tank.

Life is like a box of chocolate...

Posted
serangoon central . kinda near you two hougang dudes =)

 

LOL....yeap...got chance we all come out eat together...

July2004 - dec2007 ->NSR150SP (FU**29B)

April2008 - April2010 ->CBR400RRR (FP**86R)

April2010 - April 2011 ->SYM GTS200(FBB**09U)

April2011 - Currently ->S4SPEC1(FT**56J)

 

If you think you are beaten, YOU ARE

if you think you will lose, YOU HAVE LOST

if you think you cant, YOU DEFINATELY WON'T

SUCCESS only comes to the man WHO BELIEVES HE CAN!

Posted
yah, $230 at FJT......

 

So you think it's a good idea to get from this site instead. Although FJT is OEM Honda part. :cheeky:

 

great , wil wait for that day =) my contact is 98562792 . have to get goin to some primary sch now . see ya guys !

 

How come have to go primary school one? :cheeky:

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/9845/skeletonnc29.jpg

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