-=BabyBlade=-(CBR)

[Zer0]

Originally posted by darren_soh86@January 23, 2007 06:57 am

hey bros my blade seems to be having this problem after i done my coolant flushing at the shop..

 

the bike started to vent off coolant if i off the engine when the bike is hot.. i.e like 3/4 thermostat and above.. it vents from the tube near my right leg area..

 

so i tops off distilled water in the coolant reservoir in case it vents until it drys up.. after that when ever i ride my bike after bout 1/2 thermostat.. i can hear the liquid boiling in the coolant reservoir.. den now when the bike gets damn hot and i off the engine.. it still drains out coolant water ocassionalli..

 

anione got any idea wat is wrong? coolant too diluted?

 

:giddy:

Coolant shouldn't be boiling. That would indicate that you are running just water and not proper coolant. Proper coolant is anti-freeze/anti-boil and will run up to aroun 150-180 degrees before it starts to boil. Alternatively your bike is running a lot hotter than it seems if it is actually hitting 150+ degrees to make coolant boil.

 

Coolant coming out the overflow pipe is not a problem though. Generally a sign that the reservoir has been overfilled and it just blows out the excess when its hot. If you keep putting more water in it will just keep blowing it out again.

[Tronicans]

Originally posted by rizal33@January 23, 2007 08:44 am

Hei Guyz,

 

Need ur expert advise here.

 

Juz got myself a hurricane.

 

My bike runs till 160-170km before i switch to reserve. I find its too high fuel comsumption. Am i right?

 

Questions

 

(1) What is the full tank capacity?

(2) What wear and tear can lead to this high consumption?

 

Thanks Guys..

 

 

160km to 170km full tank is very high... sounds more like a race bike....

 

 

Since you just got the bike... Check your air filter, see whether it's dirty or clogged. check, service your carbs.. High Fc could be due to poor carburation.retune the carbs.

 

May seem stupid, BUT check whether your fuel tank is leaking any gas. Check in-line fuel filter which leads the petrol to the fuel pump...

 

There are factors like heavy mods on the bike that could lead to high FC.. pipes, jets being the main...

 

J, K Hurricane 15L

L , N and R model 15L

[Tronicans]

Originally posted by Zer0@January 23, 2007 02:31 pm

Given that they are all unrestricted and in the same condition there will be no difference.

 

 

true.. But a restricted R model and an L model has a reasonable difference in power and also fuel consumption..

[Bumbleboy]

Originally posted by SGGH@January 22, 2007 07:51 pm

Anyone recent bought any fireblade? wat's the price range now ar?

Should be between 4-5K.. i bought mine for 4.5K.

[Zer0]

I am only talking about the 180km/h speedo restriction when I say unrestricted, everything else stock. An L model and an R model will turn in close to identical power figures on a dyno and fuel consumption is also much the same, there is no power/economy difference, in any of the dyno print outs I have seen from various models. The only ones that turn in less are those that still have the 180km/h speed limiter in place hit a wall when they get to that speed.

[SGGH]

So what's the major difference other than the power restriction? between each model.

[Aalex82]

Originally posted by Zer0@January 23, 2007 02:35 pm

Coolant shouldn't be boiling. That would indicate that you are running just water and not proper coolant. Proper coolant is anti-freeze/anti-boil and will run up to aroun 150-180 degrees before it starts to boil. Alternatively your bike is running a lot hotter than it seems if it is actually hitting 150+ degrees to make coolant boil.

 

Coolant coming out the overflow pipe is not a problem though. Generally a sign that the reservoir has been overfilled and it just blows out the excess when its hot. If you keep putting more water in it will just keep blowing it out again.

errr...

i think yr theory is wrong..

coolant agent hav onli anti-rust and anti-freeze agent in it..

dun hav anti boiling..

radiator will work juz fine and even better wif pure water onli..

juz that pure water will induce rust..

boiling point of the coolant/water is control by either pressure and impurities..

the higher the pressure, the higher the boiling point..

therefore less chance for the coolant to be boiled..

for his case, i think is yr radiator cap wear and tear le..

u can try open it up and check the rubber in the cap..

if there is cracks or expansion of rubber, time for u to change it..

[darren_soh86]

Originally posted by Aalex82@January 23, 2007 07:44 pm

errr...

i think yr theory is wrong..

coolant agent hav onli anti-rust and anti-freeze agent in it..

dun hav anti boiling..

radiator will work juz fine and even better wif pure water onli..

juz that pure water will induce rust..

boiling point of the coolant/water is control by either pressure and impurities..

the higher the pressure, the higher the boiling point..

therefore less chance for the coolant to be boiled..

for his case, i think is yr radiator cap wear and tear le..

u can try open it up and check the rubber in the cap..

if there is cracks or expansion of rubber, time for u to change it..

er bro.. i tink he is rite.. coolant does boil at a higher temp compared to pure water.. i tink i over dilute.. so i will haf to DIY flush again.. last time at shop do oso ****ed up one..

 

but i tink the fact that u mentioned the cap is rite too.. i planning to replace the cap oso..

 

any idea how much?

[Tronicans]

Originally posted by Aalex82@January 23, 2007 07:44 pm

errr...

i think yr theory is wrong..

coolant agent hav onli anti-rust and anti-freeze agent in it..

dun hav anti boiling..

radiator will work juz fine and even better wif pure water onli..

juz that pure water will induce rust..

boiling point of the coolant/water is control by either pressure and impurities..

the higher the pressure, the higher the boiling point..

therefore less chance for the coolant to be boiled..

for his case, i think is yr radiator cap wear and tear le..

u can try open it up and check the rubber in the cap..

if there is cracks or expansion of rubber, time for u to change it..

 

 

 

loss of pressure from the radiator cap area wil cause the coolant to flow out from the over flow hose at e right footrest...

 

Its sign of wear on radiator cap....

You either change OR mod e cap a bit.. add another layer of rubber on e tip.. can be DIY .. tat wil last longer than usual...

 

But if spending arnd $15 to $18 on new cap, is no deal rather get a new 1....

[Tronicans]

Originally posted by Zer0@January 23, 2007 04:47 pm

I am only talking about the 180km/h speedo restriction when I say unrestricted, everything else stock. An L model and an R model will turn in close to identical power figures on a dyno and fuel consumption is also much the same, there is no power/economy difference, in any of the dyno print outs I have seen from various models. The only ones that turn in less are those that still have the 180km/h speed limiter in place hit a wall when they get to that speed.

 

 

Well, an R model has this HorsePower restriction (so called) ... on its carb.... L n N models don't have..

 

Its this rubber tubes connecting the carbs and the intake ports... All models have this tubes... But from wat i know R models have a cresent like washer inside. this wil restrict your throttle power...

 

On a dyno test this can be proven... when you remove the washers, or use the empty type tubes like e L model's... you get a higher HP... But on 50+ Hp bike you cant feel a huge difference.....

[KeMoZ]

hey rizal33, my hurricane mileage up to 300 b4 reserve wif 2bros endcan...

ahahah...but not yet tuned... ani place has gud recommendation to tune up my bike??

 

heyz.. u guys noe whether hurricane can be fitted wid k&n aif filter...

u noe whe to get em....

[SGGH]

So how to differentiate the models? RRL RRN RRR?

[PUNK]

u can look @ the bodyframe serial no..

 

nc29100 - rrl

nc29105 - rrn

nc29110- rrr

 

or alternative... can open the pillion seat on the right side there will be a sticker clearly stated the model.... bt b aware sum of the previous owner mite haf change the exhaust header lol... cheersss

[myusha]

Originally posted by Aalex82+January 23, 2007 07:44 pm-->

QUOTE (Aalex82 @ January 23, 2007 07:44 pm)

for his case, i think is yr radiator cap wear and tear le.. u can try open it up and check the rubber in the cap.. if there is cracks or expansion of rubber, time for u to change [/b]

[myusha]

Originally posted by Tronicans@January 23, 2007 02:15 pm

The 1st link has corrupted file!....

 

 

Average L and N model fuel consumption is 230km to 250km... (before reserve)

 

For R model is 280km to 300km depending on stock condition... (before reserve)

If unrestricted the FC is different...

Mine is a R model, but it'll hit reserve when i travel for only 270km.

Its consider quite stock already..

Maybe i should get the mechanic to check whether any mod had been done to the bike before...

[Zer0]

Originally posted by Tronicans@January 23, 2007 09:59 pm

 

Well, an R model has this HorsePower restriction (so called) ... on its carb.... L n N models don't have..

 

Its this rubber tubes connecting the carbs and the intake ports... All models have this tubes... But from wat i know R models have a cresent like washer inside. this wil restrict your throttle power...

 

On a dyno test this can be proven... when you remove the washers, or use the empty type tubes like e L model's... you get a higher HP... But on 50+ Hp bike you cant feel a huge difference.....

If the R model DOES have that carb restrictor in place here then yes you are right it will have less power. This must be something unique to the SG market though as R model bikes from Japan market and anywhere else in the world do not have this restriction.

[Zer0]

Originally posted by Aalex82@January 23, 2007 07:44 pm

errr...

i think yr theory is wrong..

coolant agent hav onli anti-rust and anti-freeze agent in it..

dun hav anti boiling..

radiator will work juz fine and even better wif pure water onli..

juz that pure water will induce rust..

boiling point of the coolant/water is control by either pressure and impurities..

the higher the pressure, the higher the boiling point..

therefore less chance for the coolant to be boiled..

for his case, i think is yr radiator cap wear and tear le..

u can try open it up and check the rubber in the cap..

if there is cracks or expansion of rubber, time for u to change it..

Nope I am right Coolant is anti freeze/anti boil as well as having corrosion inhibitors. The boiling point of coolant is significantly higher than that of plain water which means you can withstand higher temperatures without the coolant boiling and producing steam/airlocks/hot pockets in the engine.

 

Plain water will boil at 100. Coolant boiling point is generally 150-180 depending on the mix. Plain water is not better in any way than proper coolant. Plain water is used in race bikes because coolant is slippery and hard to clean up so you don't want people dumping it on the track but this is the only reason.

 

Pressure in the system is definately part of the cooling process though and faulty radiator cap will also cause the system to open the overflow at a lower pressure which will cause the reservoir to overflow and spill out the overflow pipe.

 

So grab a new radiator cap to be safe as they only cost $15 or so, flush your coolant out and refill with correct mixture coolant and then put on the new cap and you should be all good.

[honam24]

Originally posted by darren_soh86@January 23, 2007 08:18 pm

er bro.. i tink he is rite.. coolant does boil at a higher temp compared to pure water.. i tink i over dilute.. so i will haf to DIY flush again.. last time at shop do oso ****ed up one..

 

but i tink the fact that u mentioned the cap is rite too.. i planning to replace the cap oso..

 

any idea how much?

cost around 8 bucks. Can purchase it at any petrol station also.

[honam24]

mine can go up to 340km before reserve.

 

 

[karmede_s9]

Originally posted by honam24@January 24, 2007 10:20 am

mine can go up to 340km before reserve.

 

 

wahhhh !!!

u're bike godmode sia !!!

wad u do to it ??

[kambing]

anybody noes what's the stock sprocket size for front and back?

[PUNK]

standard sprocket 39/15... cheerss

[rizal33]

WOW..big diff sia in milleage..i tink muz go check liao..

 

Any shops to recommend for servicing for HURRICANE??

 

THanks alot guyz

[Aalex82]

Originally posted by myusha@January 24, 2007 06:11 am

 

 

darren mentioned that the coolant is coming out from the tube, not from the cap..

if the cap's rubber have the crack n tear, shouldn't the coolant be coming out from the top and not from the tube?

 

I had a friend whom her bike vent off the coolant from the pipe while she's riding. And it makes the bike temperature goes up high very fast. After pushing the bike in to a bike shop, den she realise her bike's coolant pipe burst

cos the radiator cap cannot hold the high pressure.. resulting in the excess coolant flowing into the reservoir.. when the reservoir is full, the coolant will flow thru that tube..

u will notice there is a hose linking the reservoir and the radiator juz below the cap..

[Aalex82]

Originally posted by Zer0@January 24, 2007 09:42 am

Nope I am right Coolant is anti freeze/anti boil as well as having corrosion inhibitors. The boiling point of coolant is significantly higher than that of plain water which means you can withstand higher temperatures without the coolant boiling and producing steam/airlocks/hot pockets in the engine.

 

Plain water will boil at 100. Coolant boiling point is generally 150-180 depending on the mix. Plain water is not better in any way than proper coolant. Plain water is used in race bikes because coolant is slippery and hard to clean up so you don't want people dumping it on the track but this is the only reason.

 

Pressure in the system is definately part of the cooling process though and faulty radiator cap will also cause the system to open the overflow at a lower pressure which will cause the reservoir to overflow and spill out the overflow pipe.

 

So grab a new radiator cap to be safe as they only cost $15 or so, flush your coolant out and refill with correct mixture coolant and then put on the new cap and you should be all good.

i hav a check on the boiling point of the coolant..

u are rite..

sorry for the wrong info..