Yamaha TZM 150 Riders

[SweetChild]

Originally posted by hohosaint@Mar 18 2005, 05:44 PM

If piston, block, gasketssss, cone bearings, dry battery and reel valve have been replaced... Should not be a big problem. Unless previous owner keeps ramming the bike. If 80k milleage still has not replaced above said. Be prepared.

what happens after the mileage goes 99999.9?

[HondaYamaha]

Originally posted by WanNavaro@Mar 20 2005, 08:26 PM

my rear tyre botak already.... currently its a battlax.

heard and saw dunlop. any opinions about this? cos i thought of trying dunlop for now. my malaysian mechs say its rm120 for the rear... (dunlop)

i hope experienced M riders here can guide me thru.....

if malaysia 1,i believe is made in thailand....if the one u talking abt is thailand,can get around 80rm or +- 10......japan tt9gp both front n rear 150sing...dollar

[HondaYamaha]

Originally posted by WanNavaro@Mar 20 2005, 08:31 PM

what happens after the mileage goes 99999.9?

back to 0 again lor.....i think lah.no flaming pls.

[Guest jelinoi]

Originally posted by macan_putih@Mar 20 2005, 02:31 PM

yo guys......knoe where to get e serice manual for tzm.................or even the racing manual...from wat i knoe auto got but they dont allow people to see.................

sorry bro, there's no such thing as a mechanic's handbook nor a detailed service manual for TZM. not even for SP. KRR i'm not sure, not interested to know though e only thing available aside e owner's manual for M is e parts catalogue. every single nut, spring, coil etc which can be found on an M are all listed in e cat. 2strokers are generally foolproof n easy to service, including bringing down (overhauling) e whole engine. that's e reason y yamaha didn't release any service manual of some sort. service manuals can only be found for bigger bikes. u can obtain e cat for a small fee from either LAB or HKL. $15 if i'm not wrong. but if u wanna order e parts, i recommend ban hoe leong (BHL) situated at jln besar plaza (shop w huge signboard facing main rd, u can't miss it). there they have plenty of OEM stock w good prices. most bike shops won't release certain parts to u. for what reason u n i know. n if u order parts from citipoint (yamaha agent), e prices are marked up. BHL was recommended to me by lau chiau William n Moorthi over at citipoint hehehe me n moorthi go back a long way...

[Guest jelinoi]

Originally posted by ambasnakeman@Mar 20 2005, 07:29 PM

2 stroke bike no need manual one la

 

i got a bunch of pilot and main jets......any body 1. give all for 10 bucks

amba bro, i need those jets. u hv all or most of e sizes? i need to rejet. i wonder if ur offer of $20 (in ur prev posts) to help rejet M's is still standing

[Guest jelinoi]

Originally posted by WanNavaro@Mar 20 2005, 08:26 PM

my rear tyre botak already.... currently its a battlax.

heard and saw dunlop. any opinions about this? cos i thought of trying dunlop for now. my malaysian mechs say its rm120 for the rear... (dunlop)

i hope experienced M riders here can guide me thru.....

msian tyres r made from 70-30 rubber, ie 70% organic + 30% synthetic. msia is rich in raw rubber (frm plantations la like duh) therefore e cheaper tyre prices. dunlops imported from thai i'm not too sure. i've ever used michelin pilot sport made in thai before n i can tell u e compound, grip, feel n manoevering capability is simply astounding. u can actually 'feel' e road on ur handlebars as e tread pattern transmits vibes straight up e fork thru ur bars into ur palms. for me i feel safer that way but e vibes tend to prove uncomfy for some riders. thats y now i'm kinda hooked to mich still that doesnt means all tyres thai-made are good hehehe. spore tyres are made 30-70, therefore e compound is tougher n grip is better due to more synthetic material used. i would recommend u get tyres from HKL as i believe his tyres are affordable yet reliable. for dunlop TT9 currently it's ard $150 front n back i think.

[macan_putih]

sorry bro, there's no such thing as a mechanic's handbook nor a detailed service manual for TZM. not even for SP. KRR i'm not sure, not interested to know though e only thing available aside e owner's manual for M is e parts catalogue. every single nut, spring, coil etc which can be found on an M are all listed in e cat. 2strokers are generally foolproof n easy to service, including bringing down (overhauling) e whole engine. that's e reason y yamaha didn't release any service manual of some sort. service manuals can only be found for bigger bikes. u can obtain e cat for a small fee from either LAB or HKL. $15 if i'm not wrong. but if u wanna order e parts, i recommend ban hoe leong (BHL) situated at jln besar plaza (shop w huge signboard facing main rd, u can't miss it). there they have plenty of OEM stock w good prices. most bike shops won't release certain parts to u. for what reason u n i know. n if u order parts from citipoint (yamaha agent), e prices are marked up. BHL was recommended to me by lau chiau William n Moorthi over at citipoint hehehe me n moorthi go back a long way...

 

 

ok.......me only know auto cycle but most of e tzm parts dont have seh when i go there........say must order or watever crap

anyway u can give me e add or tell of this shop.....thks bro

[Guest jelinoi]

do u know where jln besar plaza is? 2 ways i normally get to there: 1) from serangoon rd turn right into kitchener rd n go straight till e end where u can only turn right into jln besar. at tht junction, if u so were to stop for a red light, look ahead and u can see BAN HOE LEONG. bingo! 2) from bendemeer rd transit into jln besar or from lavender st make a right turn at that special junction into jln besar n keep to ur left. u'll PASS foch rd, shell petrol stn, petain rd, allenby rd, tyrwhitt rd, slow down n u'll see jln besar plaza abt 100m away on e left. DON'T turn left into kitchener rd, instead go up on e pavement n park ur bike directly in front of BAN HOE LEONG. if u PASS maude rd even so ended up at regina then you've missed it n gotta have ur eyes checked hehehe. btw e add is 101 Kitchener Road. still unsure? click > StreetDirectorySG

[w3rT]

Originally posted by jelinoi@Mar 20 2005, 02:22 AM

by jus telling us e plate and e mileage, it's extremely difficult to gauge e condition of the TZM. go over e bike shop pref w a 2stroker fren, switch on ignition n listen for e valve motor jus below frontal-tank. it'll go "eet-eet" and sometimes an extra "eet" but no prob w dat. pull e choke n kickstart (dun twist e throttle). if engine doesn't start e 1st kick, kick again n again till it starts n idles without e throttle being twisted. normally abt 3 kicks means e plug is fine, more than tht plug hv 2 chg. while e engine is idling, look at e initial rpm. if it's more than 3 tuning having prob. let it idle n warm up by itself. now listen closely to e engine. do u hear any funny sounds coming from e piston? close choke n rev it up like its ur dad's about-to-scrap bike, not redlining of course or u may get walloped. look at e exhaust. no smoke? check if whether there is 2T in e 2T tank. there is? rev again n again. still no smoke? YCLS (autolube) system having prob. too much smoke? white/black smoke? white's ok, thats 2T and is adjustable depending on e way u ride. black smoke? walk away. listen closely to e engine, e piston to be precise. hear any loud rattling sound? louder than ur exhaust? use a cloth n cover fully e exhaust outlet. ask ur fren to listen whether e piston ring got prob or not. when e ratlling is loud n seemingly annoying, it means e piston rings' near-busted. most M's i encounter have near-busted rings n e shop salesman/mechs' fav line will be "Where got? Normal wat?! You mech or i mech?" if e shop agrees to chg e rings for u FOC, stay put. if not, walk away unless 1) u know where to buy e rings for ard $10 ea n fix it on urself or 2) u plan to only use the bike for a period of 6mths or less n promise urself tht u'll stay below rpm6 till u can save up enuf to chg e rings. near-busted rings will bust sooner than xpected resulting in a piston seizure/jam if u whack-a-lot (whack everyday and give urself 3mths max). so far these are e common probs multiple-hand TZMs over at bike shops as well as private owners are having. even if ur M passes these checks, there are more general checks to perform before u can really be assured that e machine is value-for-money. u can obtain these from http://www.singaporebikes.com/forum/index....ls&CODE=03&ID=3 and a more detailed checklist from http://www.singaporebikes.com/forum/index....ls&CODE=03&ID=2 . in obtaining e bike of ur dreams! Cheers!

does this apply when checking the condition of a kr oso? except for the "eet eet" sound la when u start.

[SweetChild]

Originally posted by jelinoi@Mar 21 2005, 12:12 AM

i would recommend u get tyres from HKL as i believe his tyres are affordable yet reliable. for dunlop TT9 currently it's ard $150 front n back i think.

hkl is the one at bukit merah lane is it?

[ambasnakeman]

Originally posted by jelinoi@Mar 20 2005, 11:52 PM

amba bro, i need those jets. u hv all or most of e sizes? i need to rejet. i wonder if ur offer of $20 (in ur prev posts) to help rejet M's is still standing

10 bucks for all pilot and main jets.

 

u want me to do setting, 20 bucks. i think its a fair price.

[ambasnakeman]

Originally posted by macan_putih@Mar 21 2005, 12:44 AM

sorry bro, there's no such thing as a mechanic's handbook nor a detailed service manual for TZM. not even for SP. KRR i'm not sure, not interested to know though e only thing available aside e owner's manual for M is e parts catalogue. every single nut, spring, coil etc which can be found on an M are all listed in e cat. 2strokers are generally foolproof n easy to service, including bringing down (overhauling) e whole engine. that's e reason y yamaha didn't release any service manual of some sort. service manuals can only be found for bigger bikes. u can obtain e cat for a small fee from either LAB or HKL. $15 if i'm not wrong. but if u wanna order e parts, i recommend ban hoe leong (BHL) situated at jln besar plaza (shop w huge signboard facing main rd, u can't miss it). there they have plenty of OEM stock w good prices. most bike shops won't release certain parts to u. for what reason u n i know. n if u order parts from citipoint (yamaha agent), e prices are marked up. BHL was recommended to me by lau chiau William n Moorthi over at citipoint hehehe me n moorthi go back a long way...

 

 

ok.......me only know auto cycle but most of e tzm parts dont have seh when i go there........say must order or watever crap

anyway u can give me e add or tell of this shop.....thks bro

there are handbooks.

 

u can try yamaha hond leong. quoted me 20 bucks for a photocopy 1 last time.

i didnt buy it in the end

[DeViLiSh]

Originally posted by w3rT@Mar 21 2005, 09:01 AM

does this apply when checking the condition of a kr oso? except for the "eet eet" sound la when u start.

for kr, u've gotta ask a pro. generally for 2stroke bikes, 2T smoke and e near-busted piston ring thingy r e same

[DeViLiSh]

Originally posted by WanNavaro@Mar 21 2005, 11:37 AM

hkl is the one at bukit merah lane is it?

yes it is

[HondaYamaha]

Originally posted by w3rT@Mar 21 2005, 09:01 AM

does this apply when checking the condition of a kr oso? except for the "eet eet" sound la when u start.

hey,dun be fool by the sound when u on the switch...yah,sumtime sound like very weak,u noe got problem with valve liow....maybe low batt.....,maybe alot of carbon,maybe pulley or cabble fault,or valve system inside got plastic gear wear out....

BUT,I CAN BET WITH U,EVEN when u on,the valve checking system sound perfect, smooth,doesnt mean ur valve is ok,i can tell u the shop all bullshit.sumtime the valve inside broken,also sound like normal.only way to check is ride n rev the bike or open both side ypvs cover n check....

[DeViLiSh]

Originally posted by tzmm@Mar 21 2005, 11:30 PM

hey,dun be fool by the sound when u on the switch...yah,sumtime sound like very weak,u noe got problem with valve liow....maybe low batt.....,maybe alot of carbon,maybe pulley or cabble fault,or valve system inside got plastic gear wear out....

BUT,I CAN BET WITH U,EVEN when u on,the valve checking system sound perfect, smooth,doesnt mean ur valve is ok,i can tell u the shop all bullshit.sumtime the valve inside broken,also sound like normal.only way to check is ride n rev the bike or open both side ypvs cover n check....

tis true what u said bro, thumbs up for bringing that across Barcelona-[tZm]- u can ask e bike shop to open up e ypvs cover on e left side below ur tank for u to inspect. once its open, u'll see a pulley-like system with a grooved-disc (valve) and a metal wire/cable. some owners experienced e valve-disc broken into 2. some owners experienced e valve shaft either bent or beyond repair. normally e valve motor would either jam or gives a rattling sound when e system is compromised. switch on e ignition n see if whether e motor pulls n release e cable in a fluid motion, n e valve-disc turns back n forth with ease. btw, u wun b able to see e motor unless u remove e tank. it sits directly below frontal-tank, just behind e cone. if there's no eet-eet sound coming out when u switch e ignition on, u hve to check batt 1st, if ok e valve-motor and if its ok then can u suspect e valve system. so mar-fun duncha think?

[RedHare]

Hey guys... I thinking of changing my 2t PUMP TO PREMIX. My friends say the respon n pickup is much better izzit true??? How much does it cost ???

[HondaYamaha]

Originally posted by sKyVodKa@Mar 22 2005, 01:14 PM

Hey guys... I thinking of changing my 2t PUMP TO PREMIX. My friends say the respon n pickup is much better izzit true??? How much does it cost ???

4 me,having try both,i prefer premix....trottle response better...but others may have their own preference...dun juz follow people.onli thing,damn leceh!!!!!

[HondaYamaha]

1 more thing abt valve,when u open both side cover to check,dun juz check at the pulley side,bcause that is where the valve pull mah...after u check at the pulley side,go over to the oter side,while using 1 of ur hand the valve edge,on the key,see got force pulling the valve or not....sumtime the velve break into halve,if u use ur hand tho hold on the valve edge,only the valve at the pulley side turn,another side dont.....best is use plyer holh,but dun until hold so hard lah....

hope u understand my lousy english lah....

[MiLeNkO]

hi all, staying at bukit batok and just getting my TZM tml evening. just passed today..

 

hope someone can guide me in maintaining my new found baby

 

can drop me a pm to exchange numbers?!

 

heh

 

not sure if i should post this here but nvm!

[DeViLiSh]

Originally posted by sKyVodKa@Mar 22 2005, 01:14 PM

Hey guys... I thinking of changing my 2t PUMP TO PREMIX. My friends say the respon n pickup is much better izzit true??? How much does it cost ???

if u premix, u affect e viscosity of your fuel, therefore u have to REJET your carb to a bigger setting. and as 2T is heavier than petrol, it will sink to e bottom of ur tank when it's stationary for more than 15-30mins depending on 2T grade. so u'll have to shake-ya-bon-bon ur tank WELL to mix them throughly. mostly riders premix becos they're afraid autolube sys will fail one day resulting in a piston jam n also ycls sys is not made for extreme road racing which means not enuf 2T is fed during high speeds.

 

RATIO is e keyword in premixing. if u kok up your maths u WILL kok up your bike. autolube sys feeds 2T at a ratio of 1:50 by default (with e 2T adjusting nut tightened fully). if ure an extreme road racer ure looking for a 1:25 which means premixing in 1:50 into fuel tank if ure using alongside autolube. if ure scrapping e whole autolube sys then u'll be premixing in 1:25 directly into fuel tank. best to use a fully-syn premix grade if ure doing this as e molecules in such a grade sticks better to petrol molecules.

 

don't adjust e 2T adjusting nut becos it makes e ratio go haywire. remember that if u overdose ur engine w 2T it will lead to carbon buildup on ur piston surface which will result in detonation

 

e 1st time i used premix i didn't rejet n in e end my ypvs broke down. my valve shaft got bent due to stress n my valve motor overburned. spent $300+ to rectify e whole damn thing. aft that i rejetted n yep, e engine ran smoother w premix but pickup was lowered jus a wee bit. it's becos premixing reduces not only e viscosity but also e flammability of petrol. went thru a lot of hell with maths using my hp calculator all e time whenever i go for a topup.

 

there is an easier alternative to premixing. go to ur fav bike shop, ask them to BYPASS e YCLS component for ur autolube. if they dun und, tell them "i want my 2T straight go thru pump, don wan to use this part". if u look carefully below ur 2T tank there's this black cylindrical component where 2T from 2T tank passes thru before it enters e 2T pump. once they've done that, make sure e 2T adjusting nut is fully tightened n test machine. calculate ur ratio n u'll realise that ure doing 1:25

 

but if u're still vent on premixing, remember e keywords: MATHEMATICS, REJET, SHAKE-YA-BON-BON

 

happy shaking!

[macan_putih]

well bro i am using premix for my tzm..........and my premix ration is 1:20

well for my honestly saying 1:25 is like too much........anyway premix i diy and i did not do rejet...dont knoe bout u guys but i prefer pre mix....its more smooth

[DeViLiSh]

Originally posted by macan_putih@Mar 24 2005, 04:04 AM

well bro i am using premix for my tzm..........and my premix ration is 1:20

well for my honestly saying 1:25 is like too much........anyway premix i diy and i did not do rejet...dont knoe bout u guys but i prefer pre mix....its more smooth

excuse me bro, which one is too much? 1:25 or 1:20? 1:25=40ml 2T for every litre of petrol. 1:20=50ml 2T for every litre of petrol.

[macan_putih]

me using one litre or petrol to 20ml of 2t......

not e other way round

[DeViLiSh]

Originally posted by macan_putih@Mar 24 2005, 04:01 PM

me using one litre or petrol to 20ml of 2t......

not e other way round

bro, for ratios to work, e SI units for both arguments must be e same. that is, if ure using 1:20, that means 1litre:20litres, or 1ml:20ml. u said u use 1L of petrol to 20ml of 2T rite? so 1st u've gotta make e units similar. 1L=1000ml of petrol to 20ml of 2T. so that leaves u w a ratio of 20:1000, bring it down using LCM (Lowest Common Multiplier) and u'll get 1:50. therefore i deduce that ure using ure autolube sys alongside premixing at a ratio of 1:50 and NOT 1:20.