Electrical Issues

[RaVon]

is it same pricing for YTZ n TTZ??

 

Just bought 1 TTZ14S @ $70 from LAB just now.

Enquired about YTZ12S, currently no stock.

[Echelon]

Hi, have a a quick question to ask, my ABS light this week stays on all the way. Sometimes only sometimes it turns off on its own. But for most of the time it remains on.

 

Went to Loois they do not know whats the problem with it and asked me to leave the bike there. But have not done so as I was running around town and have errands to run.

 

Want to check if anyone experienced the same thing here?

 

Anyways due is my 30,000 km servicing. Have to change a couple of stuff

1. Brake pad

2. Oil

3. Sparks

4. Air and Oil Filters

 

Estimate cost will be around $500.00 kinda ex, most cars don't even cost that much.

 

Am I missing something here?

[sino74]

i did encounter blinking of the ABS light when on the move..

on / off few times and it eventually goes off..

probably dust accumulate around the sensor / braking system .

see if its time to change the front brake pads and if not ,

try to air blow the brake pads and its surroundings...

it might help...

do update us ~

[James996]

Anyways due is my 30,000 km servicing. Have to change a couple of stuff

1. Brake pad

2. Oil

3. Sparks

4. Air and Oil Filters

 

Estimate cost will be around $500.00 kinda ex, most cars don't even cost that much.

 

Am I missing something here?

 

Let's see...

1. Brake pad (I order 2 sets of front OEM pads online for abt $100, for rear i brought the EBC pad for $50)

2. Oil (Motul 300V - $27 x 3 = $81, Mobil - $22 x 3 = $66)

3. Sparks (NGK iridium $20 x 4 = $100)

4. Air and Oil Filters ( OEM air filter abt $80, OEM oil filter abt $15 )

 

Total abt $426 for me if i using 300V.

 

Air filter can gt aftermarket ones,save more in the long run as OEM filter too ex.

[MT23]

the best sent to where Mengtong is working @ Mah Motor @ Serangoon Rd ( correct me if i m wrong) to let him assess the problem. He can tel u wat is the pro from the number of blinks occur or yr symptoms u encounter.

 

My coil & rectifier burnt when abs blinked but i dunno how many times. Let MT assess, he told me the pro & solved it. He is really a big big PROFESSIONAL

Keep us update

[James996]

Mengtong now working at sporting motors located at kaki bukit.

 

For full address,check the sbf advertiser board.

[Relaxbro]

Just checked with Meng Tong, he's now at Kaki Bukit Ave 6 #02-06 Auto Bay. Hope this helps

[K.W]

He can jus tell u the problem from listening to yur bike alone. *Salute!!

[Echelon]

Thank bro will check it out there and update over the weekend.

[none]

You can short the PGM-FI connector to check the problem yourself.

The number of blinks will tell you what's wrong with the bike.

Connector is near the fuse box.

[sino74]

any update , bro ?

[Guolong]

Some updates to this thread....

 

Few days back i encountered a weird problem with my bike.

 

The engine suddenly dies while riding, this occurs at very random intervals. At times after a long ride and at times very shortly after starting the bike. When the engine died, i noted that the FI and HISS indicators come 'ON'.

 

Towed the bike to a bikeshop and the mechanic managed to troubleshoot the fault. The HISS reader at the ignition had a loose connection and was not able to detect the embedded HISS chip in the key.

 

Damage $140 incl of workmanship for the HISS reader at BikeWorkz.

[bus_wrecker]

Yeah, this thread is a little old. I just thought i'd share my electrical issues with everyone.

 

Some of you will know that i only recently purchased an 03 vfr800 ABS last march. Recently i experienced the following at these conditions

 

Conditions

a) Engine Idling

b) Full Lights on, dipped headlights

c) Turn signal on

d) Tap Front brake to light up rear brake

e) Doesn't happen when conditions a to d do not take place. - so all is good in the day time.

 

Results

a) "Croak croak" sound

b) Engine idle RPM dips by 500 rpm (like an automatic car when engaged from N to D)

c) Engine dies occassionally at the traffic lights when moving off.

 

Solution

Send to your local bikeshop.

Actually, i was at motorworld to get the SPY alarm, and i told the guys to have a look at it. It took them 2plus hours, and they couldn't find a solution.

So I left the bike over the weekend, and they solved it on monday.

 

Those guys were good, although my knees got slightly weak when i saw them take out the huge 300+ page service manual. (by that time, the bike was all opened up). BUt they did a good job. No problems now.

 

From what the mechanic told me, there was some short-circuiting. Not exactly sure where exactly the short-circuiting was taking place. so at high electrical demands, the engine was being punished unnecessarily. Some of the wires on the bike were incredibly hot during this condition.

 

Aftermath

I've noticed slightly better pick-up and performance. The bike feels slightly lighter and easier to rev.

 

Also, FC has improved tremendously.

 

cheers and hope this helps for all vfr riders

 

ps - bike has low mileage for its age (45k km)

 

 

 

 

I wonder whether this is available here by BS?

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/motorcycle_recalls/01/honda/index.html

 

Recall ID # 07V359000 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM: WIRING

Recall Date

AUG 15, 2007

 

 

Model Affected

2002 HONDA VFR800

 

 

Summary

ON CERTAIN MOTORCYCLES, THE FRONT FAIRING SUB-HARNESS (SECTION OF THE WIRING HARNESS) TRANSFERS THE ELECTRICAL GROUNDING LOAD OF THE HEADLIGHTS, FRONT TURN SIGNALS, INSTRUMENT PANEL, AND VARIOUS RELAYS TO THE MAIN WIRING HARNESS VIA AN 18-PIN CONNECTOR. UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, THE GROUND WIRE TERMINALS INSIDE THE CONNECTOR CAN OVERHEAT, RESULTING IN MELTING OF THE CONNECTOR AND A LOSS OF POWER TO VARIOUS CIRCUITS.

 

 

Consequence

AS A RESULT, A LOSS OF CRITICAL LIGHTING OR ENGINE POWER COULD OCCUR WITHOUT WARNING, WHICH COULD CAUSE A CRASH.

 

 

Remedy

DEALERS WILL INSTALL A RE-DESIGNED SUB-HARNESS. IF DAMAGE IS FOUND, THE MAIN WIRING HARNESS WILL ALSO BE REPLACED FREE OF CHARGE. THE MANUFACTURER HAS NOT YET PROVIDED AN OWNER NOTIFICATION SCHEDULE FOR THIS CAMPAIGN. OWNERS MAY CONTACT HONDA AT 1-866-784-1870.

 

 

Potential Units Affected

 

 

Notes

HONDA (AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO.)

[James996]

@ bus_wrecker,

 

What the damage from MW?

 

45K mileage for 03?...wow...thats low...Mine 03 about 120K and still counting...

[bus_wrecker]

@ bus_wrecker,

 

What the damage from MW?

 

45K mileage for 03?...wow...thats low...Mine 03 about 120K and still counting...

 

they put it as labour of SGD 25. i installed the alarm and windshield all at one go.

[leo_rider]

i installed the alarm and windshield all at one go.

 

hi bro, how much for the alarm?

[sino74]

any of you guys using H7 headlight bulbs other than the stock one ?

how's the life span ?

what's the price per piece ?

 

any one can shed some light ?

txs in advance .

[CKC]

using osram silverstar $37 autobacs

about 50% brighter

ok for me

[sino74]

$37 per piece ? a pair ?

do u need a ballast for it ?

 

txs for ur advice .

 

[CKC]

$37 per piece ? a pair ?

do u need a ballast for it ?

 

txs for ur advice .

 

 

$37 a pair

nope no need ballast

plug and play hehehe

[leo_rider]

I'm using 1 bulb in HID. alrd been using for few mths. v gd for Malaysia rd.

[WingZer0]

Osram NightBreakers $50 per pair....try pm Siaoster.

[WingZer0]

Anyone encounter the clock getting slower after a week?

[bus_wrecker]

Hi guys

 

Electrical issues are back.

 

My voltmeter shows large variations when riding at night (headlights are on).

 

1. At idle, voltmeter shows 14.2-14.3 V

2. My normal voltage when dipped headlights are on is 13.3-13.5V. This time, the voltage drops to 12.3 - 12.9 V.

 

I experimented by turning on the headlights FULL, (toggling the high beam switch on the left handlebar), then turning it off, and the voltage shot back to the original 13.3-13.5V. All was good and normal for a few minutes, until i hit a bump, and suddenly, the voltage dropped back to 12.3 - 12.9 V, fluctuating.

 

The other day, i left the bike over the weekend (2 whole days) with the alarm on. Got on the bike on monday morning to get to work, and almost couldn't start the bike! battery was under 12V and possibly almost drained. Finally got it to crank and start, warmed up the bike and off i went.

 

Not too sure what's next. Is this a rectifier problem?

 

thanks

 

Yeah, this thread is a little old. I just thought i'd share my electrical issues with everyone.

 

Some of you will know that i only recently purchased an 03 vfr800 ABS last march. Recently i experienced the following at these conditions

 

Conditions

a) Engine Idling

b) Full Lights on, dipped headlights

c) Turn signal on

d) Tap Front brake to light up rear brake

e) Doesn't happen when conditions a to d do not take place. - so all is good in the day time.

 

Results

a) "Croak croak" sound

b) Engine idle RPM dips by 500 rpm (like an automatic car when engaged from N to D)

c) Engine dies occassionally at the traffic lights when moving off.

 

Solution

Send to your local bikeshop.

Actually, i was at motorworld to get the SPY alarm, and i told the guys to have a look at it. It took them 2plus hours, and they couldn't find a solution.

So I left the bike over the weekend, and they solved it on monday.

 

Those guys were good, although my knees got slightly weak when i saw them take out the huge 300+ page service manual. (by that time, the bike was all opened up). BUt they did a good job. No problems now.

 

From what the mechanic told me, there was some short-circuiting. Not exactly sure where exactly the short-circuiting was taking place. so at high electrical demands, the engine was being punished unnecessarily. Some of the wires on the bike were incredibly hot during this condition.

 

Aftermath

I've noticed slightly better pick-up and performance. The bike feels slightly lighter and easier to rev.

 

Also, FC has improved tremendously.

 

cheers and hope this helps for all vfr riders

 

ps - bike has low mileage for its age (45k km)

[WingZer0]

Hi guys

 

Electrical issues are back.

 

My voltmeter shows large variations when riding at night (headlights are on).

 

1. At idle, voltmeter shows 14.2-14.3 V

2. My normal voltage when dipped headlights are on is 13.3-13.5V. This time, the voltage drops to 12.3 - 12.9 V.

 

I experimented by turning on the headlights FULL, (toggling the high beam switch on the left handlebar), then turning it off, and the voltage shot back to the original 13.3-13.5V. All was good and normal for a few minutes, until i hit a bump, and suddenly, the voltage dropped back to 12.3 - 12.9 V, fluctuating.

 

The other day, i left the bike over the weekend (2 whole days) with the alarm on. Got on the bike on monday morning to get to work, and almost couldn't start the bike! battery was under 12V and possibly almost drained. Finally got it to crank and start, warmed up the bike and off i went.

 

Not too sure what's next. Is this a rectifier problem?

 

thanks

 

 

 

Voltmeters cannot be trusted with 100% reading....unless its plugged straight into the batts.....try using a multimeter to check your batt reading.....sounds like you may be a new battery.....best get it check by a reliable mech....as rectifiers going to die also sometimes give this symptoms