Yamaha YZF R1ders

[hellsfury]

Pls note that Ram air effects will only work when bike is on the move (Air being pushed into the ram tubes).... It will not work when you bike is stationary on the dyno, that's why Yamaha always quote 2 figures with and without ram air so that the customers will not be confused.

 

 

 

I think Lo-on is refering to Yamaha "R1" specifically....

 

BTW, do you guys know where I can buy the anodized tyre valve cap? Just found out tha someone stole mine over the weekend...

 

mine got stolen also sometime back. Anyway I bought mine at esso tigermart, amk blk 603 that area. Its actually for cars, but fits my bike also. Anodized black, those alloy type

[fufu]

tyre cap also ppls wanna steal....

 

Pls note that Ram air effects will only work when bike is on the move (Air being pushed into the ram tubes).... It will not work when you bike is stationary on the dyno, that's why Yamaha always quote 2 figures with and without ram air so that the customers will not be confused.

 

 

 

I think Lo-on is refering to Yamaha "R1" specifically....

 

BTW, do you guys know where I can buy the anodized tyre valve cap? Just found out tha someone stole mine over the weekend...

 

They damn cheapo mah...

 

 

my caps always got stolen... must be those small bengs riding their gt bicycles...

[Predestined]

no problemo.... do ask around 1st and check with the bike shop u prefer for more info... and and and do a self calculation on ur budget before commiting....

 

 

 

wah... u sure anot bro??? if busa insurance were to be cheap, for sure i get the bike... ahakz. but not sure if i can ride it cos im small n skinny in size..... the weight is a problem to me....

 

Alright thanks man.. Cos i wan to make a choice between R1 or busa.. haha.. Btw if lady can ride big bike.. why cant we guys? haha.. iam only 48kg.. and i wan prove others wrong, does not means small size means cant handle big bike.. muz aizai and have the skill/tactnic..

 

Btw R1 otr 2010 should be arnd 29.5k while busa otr 29k.. All tog 30++.. roughly de same price..

yamaha insurance ex thn suzuki.. but most ex is kawa de..

 

 

BTW, do you guys know where I can buy the anodized tyre valve cap? Just found out tha someone stole mine over the weekend...

 

Wan hardware at changi village got sell Vales with different kind of colors @ $1 each.. Compatible with cars,motorcycle and even bicycle.. Those really gien peng kia.. damm.. haha..

Edited March 8, 2010 by Predestined

[DaN zI]

Alright thanks man.. Cos i wan to make a choice between R1,Cbr 1k and busa.. haha.. Btw if lady can ride big bike.. why cant we guys? haha.. iam only 48kg.. and i wan prove others wrong, does not means small size means cant handle big bike.. muz aizai and have the skill/tactnic..

 

Btw R1 otr 2010 should be arnd 29.5k while busa otr 29k.. All tog 30++.. roughly de same price..

yamaha insurance ex thn suzuki.. but most ex is kawa de..

 

 

 

 

Wan hardware at changi village got sell Vales with different kind of colors @ $1 each.. Compatible with cars,motorcycle and even bicycle.. Those really gien peng kia.. damm.. haha..

don't worry I got no prob handlin a big bike , am short n light also .. . Girls who look down on us we give them power power one lol .

[Predestined]

don't worry I got no prob handlin a big bike , am short n light also .. . Girls who look down on us we give them power power one lol .

 

Ops. sorry bro. dun get me wrong

haha.. They see us no up.. we show them.. they ll.. haha..

[lo-on]

the 2003 r6 already has ram air tech.. r u sure yamaha only started in 2004 ?

 

well as what taaouicha asked about the yamaha R1, i reply back meaning that in 2004 R1 was first introduced the ram air system

[taaouicha]

Yamaha first started their ram air technology in order to compete with its competitors in 2004. Hence the ram air technology for yamaha only started from 2004 onwards till now and is a technology on all stock production bikes.

 

The break down of 2004/2005 yamaha r1 : Power (crank): 172 hp (128 kW), 180 hp (130 kW) with ram air is to show the so called improvement it has without and after the ram air system. of course if u feel that the yamaha ram air technology is not good enough, u can always modify it from the production models.

 

The hp are measured in crank ( off load ) so when converted to with load ( rear wheel hp ) will be about 20% off which is about the same for all other brands/makes.

 

The difference from suzuki and yamaha's ram air is of course quite obvious if u read it from the specs but what is your purpose of improving the ram air technology? for greater and better response on track or for road riding?

 

Lastly in order for u to install a TRE (timing retard eliminator) on a 04 R1, there are alot of modification that needs to be done which the cost is not worth .... If the TRE matters to u alot, why not get the 2010 model instead where the production model comes with it?

 

Heya there bro, thanks for the reply. My purpose of getting a liter bike is to use it for road use and occasionally track.

The reason’s for choosing an r1 is because it’s the most aesthetically pleasing while offering decent overall performance and for the gixxer well its mid range and high rpm hp.

I’m ruling out the 2010 r1 primarily because of the cost factor. My budget for machine is approximately 12k+. I tend to notice hp gains between 2005 models and the 2010 ones are negligible (correct me if I’m wrong).

The Timing Retard and Speed limiter override.

Btw this is an article im ripping off from http://sportsbike.org/technical/tre.htm

This mod applies to a fuel injected Suzuki

and can be used with bikes equipped with a Power Commander.

EXPLANATION:

Your ECU (the bike's fuel injection computer) takes readings from the sensors on the bike, for example, RPM, intake air pressure, throttle position, and the Gear Position. It then computes how much fuel to inject into the cylinders to make the bike run correctly.

As I understand it, the European Union and US government got involved with the manufacturers to sanitise Superbike power delivery so that when you are in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gears, the computer figures out how much fuel to inject as usual, but, to limit torque, it backs off this amount and/or closes the secondary throttles a bit and retards the ignition to limit your power. This is to keep torque down when you are in the lower gears but it doesn't do this in the higher gears, because if you're in 4th gear or higher at low RPM's and give it the beanz, you don't have *that* much torque anyway.

 

The gear position sensor is a variable resistor. When in 1st gear it's around 500 ohms. When in 6th gear, it's about 15,000 ohms. So, if you clip the wires going to the ECU, and hook up a 15K ohm resistor, the ECU *THINKS* you are really in 6th gear all the time because it is sensing 15K ohm (6th gear) of your resistor rather than what the GPS is actually reading. So, when you roll on the throttle, it puts out the full amount of power the engine is capable of.

 

That's basically the gist of it and it makes a difference in the feel of the bike. Ever notice that in 1st gear when you rev it to around 3,000 RPM then nail the throttle wide open the bike hesitates? That is because of this built in retard. With this mod, you get power quicker and smoother. Also, when going slow on the road or in a car park when you close the throttle you get a real hard engine braking, it's a lot less with the mod.

 

It's just smoother all around. Also, there's a bonus with doing this mod on the Hayabusa and the GSX-R1000 by actually fooling the bike into being in 5th gear, not 6th you override the top speed limiter. To do this use a 6,800ohm resistor, the bike will then think it's in 5th. Actually it's the same map as 6th gear but without the speed limiter.

 

 

So a though that comes to mind is why can’t a person just hook up a 6800ohm resistor on a 2004 r1 ? In order to have a gearing of 5,0,5,5,5,5,5 ?

[ u mentioned a lot of cost needed to install TRE on a yammie r1]

The additional fuel isn’t an issue. The TRE interests me because I think its supposed to be a cheap modification compared to say changing exhaust headers etc and give a rider a lot of performance gains at lower gears.(again correct me if its incorrect)

Thanks again.

[lo-on]

Heya there bro, thanks for the reply. My purpose of getting a liter bike is to use it for road use and occasionally track.

The reason’s for choosing an r1 is because it’s the most aesthetically pleasing while offering decent overall performance and for the gixxer well its mid range and high rpm hp.

I’m ruling out the 2010 r1 primarily because of the cost factor. My budget for machine is approximately 12k+. I tend to notice hp gains between 2005 models and the 2010 ones are negligible (correct me if I’m wrong).

The Timing Retard and Speed limiter override.

Btw this is an article im ripping off from http://sportsbike.org/technical/tre.htm

This mod applies to a fuel injected Suzuki

and can be used with bikes equipped with a Power Commander.

EXPLANATION:

Your ECU (the bike's fuel injection computer) takes readings from the sensors on the bike, for example, RPM, intake air pressure, throttle position, and the Gear Position. It then computes how much fuel to inject into the cylinders to make the bike run correctly.

As I understand it, the European Union and US government got involved with the manufacturers to sanitise Superbike power delivery so that when you are in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gears, the computer figures out how much fuel to inject as usual, but, to limit torque, it backs off this amount and/or closes the secondary throttles a bit and retards the ignition to limit your power. This is to keep torque down when you are in the lower gears but it doesn't do this in the higher gears, because if you're in 4th gear or higher at low RPM's and give it the beanz, you don't have *that* much torque anyway.

 

The gear position sensor is a variable resistor. When in 1st gear it's around 500 ohms. When in 6th gear, it's about 15,000 ohms. So, if you clip the wires going to the ECU, and hook up a 15K ohm resistor, the ECU *THINKS* you are really in 6th gear all the time because it is sensing 15K ohm (6th gear) of your resistor rather than what the GPS is actually reading. So, when you roll on the throttle, it puts out the full amount of power the engine is capable of.

 

That's basically the gist of it and it makes a difference in the feel of the bike. Ever notice that in 1st gear when you rev it to around 3,000 RPM then nail the throttle wide open the bike hesitates? That is because of this built in retard. With this mod, you get power quicker and smoother. Also, when going slow on the road or in a car park when you close the throttle you get a real hard engine braking, it's a lot less with the mod.

 

It's just smoother all around. Also, there's a bonus with doing this mod on the Hayabusa and the GSX-R1000 by actually fooling the bike into being in 5th gear, not 6th you override the top speed limiter. To do this use a 6,800ohm resistor, the bike will then think it's in 5th. Actually it's the same map as 6th gear but without the speed limiter.

 

 

So a though that comes to mind is why can’t a person just hook up a 6800ohm resistor on a 2004 r1 ? In order to have a gearing of 5,0,5,5,5,5,5 ?

[ u mentioned a lot of cost needed to install TRE on a yammie r1]

The additional fuel isn’t an issue. The TRE interests me because I think its supposed to be a cheap modification compared to say changing exhaust headers etc and give a rider a lot of performance gains at lower gears.(again correct me if its incorrect)

Thanks again.

 

well reason is simple, cause as what the thread says " It's only for Suzuki models " and therefore this mod is not suitable for your preference, the 04 R1 due to the vast difference in technology that yamaha and suzuki has

 

if it is suitable for 04 R1, i believe that the thread will indicate that its suitable for 04 R1 also

[taaouicha]

well reason is simple, cause as what the thread says " It's only for Suzuki models " and therefore this mod is not suitable for your preference, the 04 R1 due to the vast difference in technology that yamaha and suzuki has

 

if it is suitable for 04 R1, i believe that the thread will indicate that its suitable for 04 R1 also

 

Uhm yea its supposed to be for Suzuki but people came up with TRE for a zx-10r(Kawasaki)

So if its plausible for non Suzuki(i.e Kawasaki) I’m wondering why it cant be applicable for r1

http://www.pingelonline.com/product_photos/tre-009.jpg

 

source : http://www.rocketmotorsportsinc.com/index_files/Page1066.htm

 

So its like uhm am I missing something? It’s just supposed to be a resistor to hook up to ecu right?

Sorry if I sound like a nub for asking :/

[lo-on]

Uhm yea its supposed to be for Suzuki but people came up with TRE for a zx-10r(Kawasaki)

So if its plausible for non Suzuki(i.e Kawasaki) I’m wondering why it cant be applicable for r1

http://www.pingelonline.com/product_photos/tre-009.jpg

 

source : http://www.rocketmotorsportsinc.com/index_files/Page1066.htm

 

So its like uhm am I missing something? It’s just supposed to be a resistor to hook up to ecu right?

Sorry if I sound like a nub for asking :/

 

nope its ok reason being is that for the latest models for suzuki, yamaha and kawasaki though they each have the TRE, but when it comes down to technology, each still has their own secret concept or whatever u call them.

 

therefore what is suitable for suzuki doesnt mean that its ok for the others .... if not there could be some "side effects" or worse, breakdown might happens ....

[papabread79]

Just buy the bike and ride. No need to be so technical.

[yuxiang856]

wow.. so technical ah.. no disrespect bro.. u sounds like machiam getting a bike ready for gp leh.. lol

 

seriously for me.. regarding ram air a not.. low or mid range is not a problem.. if for track i think is more of the rider than the bike's tech.. should understand how the bike work and use it to ur advantage.. i mean if u really looking for power.. why not consider a ducati? there is no low or mid range problem i assume.. fast on pick up too..

[taaouicha]

wow.. so technical ah.. no disrespect bro.. u sounds like machiam getting a bike ready for gp leh.. lol

 

seriously for me.. regarding ram air a not.. low or mid range is not a problem.. if for track i think is more of the rider than the bike's tech.. should understand how the bike work and use it to ur advantage.. i mean if u really looking for power.. why not consider a ducati? there is no low or mid range problem i assume.. fast on pick up too..

 

No bro its cool

I just am looking for a bike that can satisfy my craving for speed that’s all. I think im the only idiot in singapore that managed to total a gsxr400 engine. The bike can be pushed to 230ish and that’s what I did till the point it broke down on me …towed it to bikeshop and mech open up the bike found my block and piston heads are damaged beyond repair. Then I read up more about 2a bike and the powercut not being existent that’s why I can push it to those speeds… but under specifications of a gsxr400 top speed is 185 … so that’s why Im going for a 1000cc bike which has a large engine which can handle the speeds I want to travel at.

 

Well after that hard lesson I’m making sure I read up more about a bike before buying

Well in terms of outlook it’s easy to say no bike is as aesthetically pleasing as a r6/r1 lah. The performance of a Yamaha is decent overall as well.

 

Uhm ducati ? those bikes are only good for track and if u look at hp of a ducati is really a lot lower than that of Japanese bikes. Thus if theres ever a straight line n u match a ducati with a Japanese sports bike the ducati will get smoked big time.

That’s the HP graph for 2005 sports bikes.

http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/PhotoGallerys/05SupBikeHP.jpg

[papabread79]

Wah bro, respect. U real racer.

 

Gotten ur SMSA licence ady?

[taaouicha]

Wah bro, respect. U real racer.

 

Gotten ur SMSA licence ady?

 

Nope bro and theres nothing to respect :/ U don’t need to be a racer to enjoy travelling at high speeds … I tend to push the bikes in Malaysia where I cant get my license revoked

Different people ride for different reasons, and any tom dik or harry can buy a 1000cc bike for a myriad of reasons… for me its simple, I want the machine to perform well enough to satisfy myself and looks decent enough for me to smile when I put in my key in the ignition.

[HanSiam]

theres a lot of TRE eliminator in the market.. Ivan's smart TRE, Nikko Racing G-Pack etc, TRE gives smoother part-throttle response in lower gears, improves low and mid range power but not all TREs will give u this in all lower gears some only eliminate 2 gears or less. Furthermore, it will bypass ur gear indicator (if your bike comes with it) and ur gear indicator will be unusable if u installed TRE..

 

I personally used healtech electronics gipro w/ Advance TRE for my Suzuki K61k.. http://www.healtech-electronics.com/ comes with gear indicaor + atre which u can able or disable with a touch of a button.. 3 - 4 modes eg. fast drag, track , cruising.. it remaps automatically for the mode u choose..

 

Its worth the $$ for me.. can feel the difference once plugged in, my favouite map 5.. Equipment extreme bring in this products.. For mostly suzuki n kawa bikes.. Now riding r1 wish i can install this but different technology lah..

[yuxiang856]

erm.. not too sure abt the graph.. haha.. wat i know for a litre cc bike 10 - 20 hp diff i dun think it will hav a big gap in term of full throttle.. not too sure abt the technicial stuffs though..

[lo-on]

erm.. not too sure abt the graph.. haha.. wat i know for a litre cc bike 10 - 20 hp diff i dun think it will hav a big gap in term of full throttle.. not too sure abt the technicial stuffs though..

 

er actually its does have a huge difference if 10 - 20hp difference for the same cc bikes .... even 5hp is good eough to make a huge difference ( lets not talk about riders issue, comparing bike hp to bike hp only ) .... cause i witnessed it myself

[TinyTanic]

guys..... have u all try riding with reserve light on???? i try mine riding at 70/80 km/h and it can last 50clicks and still can go on..... no gimmick.... and thanx to bro hells for the info... i wonder others clock how much with their yammies....

[lo-on]

guys..... have u all try riding with reserve light on???? i try mine riding at 70/80 km/h and it can last 50clicks and still can go on..... no gimmick.... and thanx to bro hells for the info... i wonder others clock how much with their yammies....

 

er u want to know how long 01 models can last before reserve light turns on and how much km before completely dry

[TinyTanic]

er u want to know how long 01 models can last before reserve light turns on and how much km before completely dry

 

 

aiya.... i know lah the older the better.... muakakakakaka.

[DaN zI]

mine i tried 40km +- lo , den i can pump 17L++ in .. LOL

[yuxiang856]

er actually its does have a huge difference if 10 - 20hp difference for the same cc bikes .... even 5hp is good eough to make a huge difference ( lets not talk about riders issue, comparing bike hp to bike hp only ) .... cause i witnessed it myself

 

oops oops.. my bad.. i really not too sure abt the hp.. thought tat all 1000cc are abt the same.. btw i no ball to full throttle... haha..

hor hor.. how u witness.. LOL.. must be in track rite..

[hotdog81]

guys..... have u all try riding with reserve light on???? i try mine riding at 70/80 km/h and it can last 50clicks and still can go on..... no gimmick.... and thanx to bro hells for the info... i wonder others clock how much with their yammies....

 

i hit 68 clicks b4

[lo-on]

aiya.... i know lah the older the better.... muakakakakaka.

 

yup and for people like u who will be getting your cpf soon .... thats why u say the older the better right

 

oops oops.. my bad.. i really not too sure abt the hp.. thought tat all 1000cc are abt the same.. btw i no ball to full throttle... haha..

hor hor.. how u witness.. LOL.. must be in track rite..

 

well its ok now that u have known

 

for me i witness it and tested it with those older models for between yamaha, suzuki and kawasaki .... along the well known neighbouring highway, from pickup to near top