[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[Marcheline]

Ahh! Now left block hole leaking engine oil also! I busted my gasket liao, i think. The metallic tick tick sound from the right block getting more irritating.. It won't go away even when the engine is hot. Krrrrrrreerrrrrrr!

 

Ah Pek..

Engine oil leaking from small hole = gasket?

Metallic tick tick = shims?

 

Should I do top servicing?

[Hondaman]

Ah Pek No Need Mirror at Home liao. He always comb his hair using the Swee Mirror like Chrome on the header. hahahaha.

[Dkoh]

  Ah Pek said:

Free and if got TECH GHEE Ko_pee session...come down lor.

 

Sure...

 

If there is kopi session... i will be there... =)

[Ah Pek]

  krafadaw said:

Ahh! Now left block hole leaking engine oil also! I busted my gasket liao, i think. The metallic tick tick sound from the right block getting more irritating.. It won't go away even when the engine is hot. Krrrrrrreerrrrrrr!

 

Ah Pek..

Engine oil leaking from small hole = gasket?

Metallic tick tick = shims?

 

Should I do top servicing?

 

Looks like its a wise move...start saving..someone did it here for $180 but not sure how much was done in terms of replacemnet parts.

[Ah Pek]

  Hondaman said:

Ah Pek No Need Mirror at Home liao. He always comb his hair using the Swee Mirror like Chrome on the header. hahahaha.

 

Aiyah...don't malu_me leh...just because you saw me doing it and that I don't lend you my header to check your tooth decay..alamak...saya su_sar liao

[tim17]

ah-pek... haha i tried the temporary solution... just some eproxy thingy to seal holes... now just hope that its won't come back...

[Ah Pek]

  tim17 said:

ah-pek... haha i tried the temporary solution... just some eproxy thingy to seal holes... now just hope that its won't come back...

 

Good for you...may be you want to put a nice sticker over that area...act as a cover-up and also as a "monitor' so you will know if it leaks again because the petrol would washed itself out thru the sticker adhesive...or hold back any major leak when park overnite.

[tim17]

ah -pek... is under the tank... is at the part where 2 screw securing to the chasing...

[Ah Pek]

  tim17 said:

ah -pek... is under the tank... is at the part where 2 screw securing to the chasing...

 

oic...then have to use a bigger patch area on it lah and occassionally check for leak again. $150 is expensive to do a welding patch lah...$80.00 may be okay. Look for 2nd one better down the line...or xchange with someone scrapping their bike.

[Dkoh]

  tim17 said:

ah -pek... is under the tank... is at the part where 2 screw securing to the chasing...

 

Actually........ if it is a small hole only... u can try those places that deals with scrap metals lor...

 

Last time when i riding SP... even ask a thai worker from the scrap metal yard to weld my exhaust before... He didn't ask money from me so i went to buy him kopi...

 

The weld is not very nice... but since yours is on the below part, i think should be okay right...

[Ah Pek]

  Dkoh said:

Actually........ if it is a small hole only... u can try those places that deals with scrap metals lor...

 

Last time when i riding SP... even ask a thai worker from the scrap metal yard to weld my exhaust before... He didn't ask money from me so i went to buy him kopi...

 

The weld is not very nice... but since yours is on the below part, i think should be okay right...

 

Working with fuel tank is not that straight forward. You ahve to empty your remaining petrol first...risne with water to the brim a fe time..dried the internal..take out the fuel K©ork..than do what you want with it.

[Dkoh]

  Ah Pek said:

Working with fuel tank is not that straight forward. You ahve to empty your remaining petrol first...risne with water to the brim a fe time..dried the internal..take out the fuel K©ork..than do what you want with it.

 

OIC....... true also la... its abit dangerous to weld a fuel tank

[smiley73]

  Ah Pek said:

Working with fuel tank is not that straight forward. You ahve to empty your remaining petrol first...risne with water to the brim a fe time..dried the internal..take out the fuel K©ork..than do what you want with it.

 

not handle properly BOOM.................

[tanlewis]

thanks ah pek.. at least i know it is fine as long as the clicking sound go away after engine hot..

[Winners]

  smiley73 said:

not handle properly BOOM.................

 

Emptying the tank prior to any work is a must. But the last time, the shop I went to use lead soldering to seal the leak. But after 1 year or so, another place start to leak. Eventually, have to replace a new tank altogether.

[Ah Pek]

  Winners said:

Emptying the tank prior to any work is a must. But the last time, the shop I went to use lead soldering to seal the leak. But after 1 year or so, another place start to leak. Eventually, have to replace a new tank altogether.

 

Due to moisture condensation that takes place in the tank internally..its something that is inevitable. The best of preventive method is to use fuel mixtures or top up tank to the brim often (don't wait till reserve..more air and space+moisture spells trouble).

[Dkoh]

  Ah Pek said:

Due to moisture condedsation that takes place in the tank internally..its something that is inevitable. The best of preventive method is to use fuel mixtures or top up tank to the brim often (don't wait till reserve..more air and space+moisture spells trouble).

 

Does it means that if u always leave it a half tank or so... There will be chances of fuel tank corrosion???

[tanlewis]

i guess if there isn't any water leak to your tank, corrosion should not take place..

[slutgarden]

and also, filling it up when it's half tank may also save you some fuel as the tank would be filled mostly with fuel and not air. hence reducing the reaction of liquid --> gas mixture.

 

you might want to consider to fill it up to the brim before you get home.

[edition]

lol by reading the post from u guyz remind me of my physic and chem .. (water)h20 + (oxygen)02 = rust

[fi_east]

just wanna ask u guys, burn $350 at bike shop yest... do i get overcharge changing this stuff?...

 

- Dunlop made in japan Arrowmax front n back $210

- GPR X-ring chain and sprocket $125..

 

is the above price same as other shop or did it got cheated man?...

 

plus adding a rxz head to my s4 and also buying a lower handle bar.... shop quote me $70 for rxz head and $40 for low handle bar.... is it ok?... thnks guys...

[Ah Pek]

  Quote

- Dunlop made in japan Arrowmax front n back $210

- GPR X-ring chain and sprocket $125

 

Reasonably very good price for your Arrowmax..great tyres!!!..most repectable till date by my opinion of any non-Vtec.

 

Not sure about GPR chain...or your spocket set make..but if you go for DID or RK X-ring with Honda original sproket set...cost is about $180 to $230 (because of original sproket set).

 

  Quote

plus adding a rxz head to my s4 and also buying a lower handle bar.... shop quote me $70 for rxz head and $40 for low handle bar....

 

Can't say much here...never into bike comestic and need of low handle bar.

[Ah Pek]

  edition said:

lol by reading the post from u guyz remind me of my physic and chem .. (water)h20 + (oxygen)02 = rust

 

 

(water)h20 + (oxygen)02 = rust + + $$$s:faint:

[Dkoh]

  Ah Pek said:

(water)h20 + (oxygen)02 = rust + + $$$s:faint:

 

Ah pek, i like to check with u. If there are corrsion on the front part of the exhaust system (the pipes that attach to the engine)... does normal spraycan paint able to cover the corrosion??? Or is there another type of paint for these parts.

 

I was told by a technician that normal paint will drop off the exhaust pipeing with afew weeks.

[Marcheline]

  Dkoh said:

Ah pek, i like to check with u. If there are corrsion on the front part of the exhaust system (the pipes that attach to the engine)... does normal spraycan paint able to cover the corrosion??? Or is there another type of paint for these parts.

 

I was told by a technician that normal paint will drop off the exhaust pipeing with afew weeks.

 

Hey bro, I know you asked Ah Pen, but just itchy to reply! Before you apply a new coat of high-temp paint, be sure to sand off the rusty area with sandpaper + water. Read Ah Pek's previous posts regarding this.

 

Sand and sand until you remove all the rust. Then you can either just apply layer after layer of high-temp spray, or apply a high-temp primer? first before spray-painting with high-temp spray.

 

I just sanded down and sprayed about 7 coatings of RJ high-temp. So far so good. But you can be sure that 6 months down the road, the area will turn white and start to rust again.