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Posted

Both are doing guess work more or less and the thing is that end of the day..they make $$s having the things changed. For the piston to be spoiled..its a very rare thing and the brake pads too thick...never geard of it.

 

I won't rude out the possibility of water or air fom your hydraulic hose. A dismantling job of the piston and cyclinder for a compress air cleaning may do the job. Also a change of hydraulic oil after bleeding the old one out.

 

Before you do the above...you may want to check for overtighting of the axle shaft of the fron't wheel. Overtightening of the axle from wheel can also caused similar proble.

 

Please see list below for other possiblities that can cause brake drag...

 

Brakes drag

1)Master cylinder piston seized. Caused by wear or damage to

piston or cylinder bore

 

2) Lever balky or stuck. Check pivot and lubricate.

 

3) Brake caliper binds. Caused by inadequate lubrication of caliper

slider pins.

 

4) Brake caliper piston seized in bore. Caused by wear or ingestion of

dirt past deteriorated seals.

 

5) Brake pad damaged. Pad material separated from backing plate.

Usually caused by faulty manufacturing process or from contact

with chemicals. Renew pads.

 

6) Pads improperly installed.

 

 

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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Posted
yes it can be done but cost $$s! Now...asjed yourself..why would someone sell bike on COI without holding a spare key?..what if they need to take back your bike if you don't pay up..unless they believe in towing it or carriage it on a mini lorry lah.

 

Anyway...I'm may be wrong but I won't rude the possiblity out that they can make a some fast bucks out of it. May be asked them when they are doing the key..then drop by shop and see if your ignition switch is taken off or not lor. Anyway..did they tell you what is it gonna cost you?

 

Got my bike back already.... the key costs me 30bucks and tow fee 25

 

They told me that about 4.30pm to collect the bike and when i arrive at about 3pm the key was on the ignition already.

I think it was duplicate from a spare key cause if gotta mold the key from the ignition, how is it possible to mold it so fast.

 

Anyway, i didn't ask much from the mechanic... just ask how much and pay only. But i am sure i will not go back there to repair my bike anymore.

Posted
Got my bike back already.... the key costs me 30bucks and tow fee 25

 

They told me that about 4.30pm to collect the bike and when i arrive at about 3pm the key was on the ignition already.

I think it was duplicate from a spare key cause if gotta mold the key from the ignition, how is it possible to mold it so fast.

 

Anyway, i didn't ask much from the mechanic... just ask how much and pay only. But i am sure i will not go back there to repair my bike anymore.

 

Just put it briefly that I know the dirty business or rather the tricks of the trade lah...but can't be seen bad mouthing ppl.

 

Anway..you should ascertain yourself by looking at finger print marks on your headlamp and meter cover area..etc. These would have been tell tale sign as you know mechanic has the habit of soiling your bike when they work on it...never borther 3/4 of the time to do a wipe for you.

 

Anyway...be smarter the next time lor..th other thing they always do..the boss especially..will tell you no parts...have to go get which actualy they have...that is what we call..$s xtra. :dot:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
versionS lor... can see from my display pic mah...

 

must be black... hahah goodie... ah-pek... got lobang faster let me know... thanks...

 

Contacte dthe guy today..need to do a search..will keep you posted.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

:cheeky: Just a line to say that......TechGhee Teck Talk updated >>> Abnormal engine noise.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Just put it briefly that I know the dirty business or rather the tricks of the trade lah...but can't be seen bad mouthing ppl.

 

Anway..you should ascertain yourself by looking at finger print marks on your headlamp and meter cover area..etc. These would have been tell tale sign as you know mechanic has the habit of soiling your bike when they work on it...never borther 3/4 of the time to do a wipe for you.

 

Anyway...be smarter the next time lor..th other thing they always do..the boss especially..will tell you no parts...have to go get which actualy they have...that is what we call..$s xtra. :dot:

 

Ya thanks alot... will be careful next time.:angel:

Posted

Ah Pek, got anymore stock of X1-R left? I'm gonna buy Carlube soon and add. I've got only 2oz left. Need 3oz for 3litres of EO.. DIY cheap cheap! Struggling student with no money, riding a hungry bike. Heheh. :help:

For the certainty of death and the knowledge of life's fragility, makes it worth living.

Posted
Ah Pek, got anymore stock of X1-R left? I'm gonna buy Carlube soon and add. I've got only 2oz left. Need 3oz for 3litres of EO.. DIY cheap cheap! Struggling student with no money, riding a hungry bike. Heheh. :help:

 

LOL!...say until so broke like that...sooner or later..after study..be a working man soon..that time..plenty lah but for now...ride safe and stay alive,

 

About X-1R..guess have to wait lah...have not been able to gather up to 24 ppl. Somemore..I think they have increase the cost..not sure how much..but I know elsewhere outside still selling at $49.00 bucks.

 

In the meantime..if you do have to change eo...go ahead..ozs is actually good enough. Carlube is great oil..though cheap. Mine has been running on that. Wayne too...he uses my blend with X-1R in it. He has traveled long continous trip without a glitch in engine performance..believe he just return from another trip fro Kaulau Trengganu..that chap rides real hard on a very old machine. Carlube :thumb: ..get the blue packing one...$61 for 5 litres..its the only one fully synthetic with "SM" certified from Carlube...oh..oso get a bottle of vicosity additive either STP or the Coral one from Germany..you engine runs quieter...mixed it into the 5 litres container..just nice the thickness.

 

I'll keep you posted on the X-1R when I collectively get enough. Uncle oso no money :)

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

So 2oz is enough. Alritey then! But I still need the X1-R for future oil changes. Ah Pek, which grade recommended? 10W or 15W?

 

STP additive, the one that costs about $6 per can? Hmmm.. I think I'll take Blue Coral. Haha. The nut is Size 14 right?

 

Wah many many qns. DIY DIY!

For the certainty of death and the knowledge of life's fragility, makes it worth living.

Posted
So 2oz is enough. Alritey then! But I still need the X1-R for future oil changes. Ah Pek, which grade recommended? 10W or 15W?

 

STP additive, the one that costs about $6 per can? Hmmm.. I think I'll take Blue Coral. Haha. The nut is Size 14 right?

 

Wah many many qns. DIY DIY!

 

The oil sump drain nut?..or iszit my nut..got two...one bigger than the other..dunno what size leh!?..got caliper..can borrow?...LOL!

 

Size is 17. Remember..DONT OVER TIGHTEN!!!! that bolt! And do check if there is any leakage afetr tighten..let engine run for a few mins and rev a bit..better still..go a few round around the block..park again check..just incase you so Kia_su that you tighten it too light...can even drop off one day...LOL! Anyway..good to have a spare.

 

Nearly 4got. Any grade can do la..but most syn comes with 5w or 10w..and end with 30-50w. The higher the better for old bike. Anyway..if you use the viscosity additive...should not worry much..just don't overfill. Less littlebit nevermind because when the eo gets thinner...the volume does increase. My 3 litre...I always uses 2.8 when additive is mixed. The coral one is more expensive...at $7.90 I think.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Got my bike back already.... the key costs me 30bucks and tow fee 25

 

They told me that about 4.30pm to collect the bike and when i arrive at about 3pm the key was on the ignition already.

I think it was duplicate from a spare key cause if gotta mold the key from the ignition, how is it possible to mold it so fast.

 

Anyway, i didn't ask much from the mechanic... just ask how much and pay only. But i am sure i will not go back there to repair my bike anymore.

 

i learn sometink new .. but den i even they cheat u 30 dollar is better den u go change the wholeset of the lock system .. jus treat it as a lesson bah as u ardy pay liao bo bian liao ..

Posted

Hey ppl...bucket your seatbelt and surf over to TechGhee tech Talk. Mr I_Ride_A_Bike has some very interesting facts about suspension..from spring rebound to riding plush on your two wheelers :)

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Hi ah pek... l'll like to check with u... i am planning to do chrome for the engine head cylinder, both front fork and the side metal piece for the footrest.

 

i came across the thread for chrome parts on the bikes... they were saying that using paint remover to remove the paint and the polish it with metal polish... and it will be chrome le... is it true tat u can do it this way???

And i ask the saleman in the hardware store about paint remover and he show me a bottle of thinner. Does it works the same???

Posted

1) Use Meaguire Metal polish..available at $16 un NTUC Hub or Houngang..or any other shop.

 

Don't use thinner..its for thining paint and washing paint brush. Paint remover is different..it can even burn your skin..very very biting!!! Make sure you have plent of water around to wash of. Kenna any paint surface..bye bye to that part.

 

The idea is to remove the laquer coating on your lower fork and upper cyclinder. Once removed..can use the polish.

 

Please..this is not "chroming"..just making it shine. UIf you been to that thread as you mentioned..you should have seen my pictures there.

 

Good lucj=k..and like I said...careful with the paint remover..especially when opening the cap seal for the first time..it can shoot at your eye..and oso..do it away from your bike during opening..it vaporises when you first open it..your eyes and skin oso itches with "Pain" !

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
1) Use Meaguire Metal polish..available at $16 un NTUC Hub or Houngang..or any other shop.

 

thanks... so using thinner to remove the paint is ok right???

Posted
thanks... so using thinner to remove the paint is ok right???

 

 

Aiyoh_yo!!!...read properly leh!!!...its a "No K" lah!...alamak!..use Paint remover...thinner is not that effective.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Aiyoh_yo!!!...read properly leh!!!...its a "No K" lah!...alamak!..use Paint remover...thinner is not that effective.

 

Oh okok... thanks very...:angel:

Posted
Anyone interested in my K&N Air Filter. Letting go @ S$ 20.00. Just did cleaning 5 months back.

 

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn201/MK8ParnZ/HONDA%20CB400SF%20Version%20S/IMG_0455.jpg

 

Woah! Better get it guys! $20 is cheap for a K&N Air Filter. Fz6, you were previously selling it for $70?

 

Anyway, Ah Pek, have you heard of this brand; Holt's Chain Lube? My father bought it but never used, so I tried it on my new chain earlier. Green goo sia! Like jelly.. When it comes into contact with skin, feels very very cold! Slimy also.. Haha. But now the drive feels smoother than when using Maxima Chain Wax, which is so dry.

 

Can't find the PJ1 uh.. Tried to import from US, but customs regulations bar compressed cylinders from being shipped. :dot:

For the certainty of death and the knowledge of life's fragility, makes it worth living.

Posted

"Holt's Chain Lube"..yes used before..but can't remember wheather its safe for X-ring uses or not. Anything that is liquidfied does better than that gel type. I doubt it reall gets inside..that's why I still use eo occassionally and then spray with the crystal clear ones from PJ1..LAB has.get the big tin $12 one..its light and more penetrating and don't fling that much. Till date "Rock Oil" chain lube is stll the best I have ever used!

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

hey anybody intending to go unique the next few days? im thinking of changing my clutch plates and cluthc cable

 

 

btw ah pek, can you help me remove by box and rack? anytime at your convenience..

In a Time of Universal Deceit, Telling the Truth is a Revolutionary Act

Posted

my ver-s is currently at idacs -> hua chin..

bike rear portion kenna kissed by honda civic vti while braking for red light.

maintained bike upright after collision.. rim abit dent, sportec m1 deflated, rear undertray abit warped.

i'm ok, went for doctors for backache, 3 day mc. xray tomorrow..

 

thankfully i'm fine.. just wanna share this.

ride with caution peeps.

Posted
my ver-s is currently at idacs -> hua chin..

bike rear portion kenna kissed by honda civic vti while braking for red light.

maintained bike upright after collision.. rim abit dent, sportec m1 deflated, rear undertray abit warped.

i'm ok, went for doctors for backache, 3 day mc. xray tomorrow..

 

thankfully i'm fine.. just wanna share this.

ride with caution peeps.

 

Gald you are ok mannn!...must be quite a jerk from the impact and amazing your bike and you never carom off! This is one reason I never stop or ride in centre of car lanes..even stopping at red traffic lights.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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