Jump to content
SingaporeBikes.com Telegram Now LIVE! Join NOW for the Last Reviews, News, Promotions & Offers in Singapore! ×
  • Join SingaporeBikes.com today! Where Singapore Bikers Unite!

    Thank you for visiting SingaporeBikes.com - the largest website in Singapore dedicated to all things related to motorcycles and biking in general.

    Join us today as a member to enjoy all the features of the website for FREE such as:

    Registering is free and takes less than 30 seconds! Join us today to share information, discuss about your modifications, and ask questions about your bike in general.

    Thank you for being a part of SingaporeBikes.com!

Recommended Posts

Posted
hey anybody intending to go unique the next few days? im thinking of changing my clutch plates and cluthc cable

 

 

btw ah pek, can you help me remove by box and rack? anytime at your convenience..

 

Hmmmm...since you are going to Unique..might as well asked dthe mech there to take it out lah (if not than let m know)...pretend you want to take out and don't tell him what jammed lah...should be a free job.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

  • Replies 18.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Posted
ah-pek... re-spray of fuel tank usually how much??

 

Just the tank?...may be about $150. I know someone did it for $350 inclusive of front fender and back cowling.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
ah-pek... re-spray of fuel tank usually how much??

 

Just the tank?...may be about $150. I know someone did it for $350 inclusive of front fender and back cowling. If you have special triming paint work job..expect to pay more lah.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Gald you are ok mannn!...must be quite a jerk from the impact and amazing your bike and you never carom off! This is one reason I never stop or ride in centre of car lanes..even stopping at red traffic lights.

 

Ah Pek, actually i find that in singapore no matter where you stop, there is still a chance of getting hit from behind. To many kuku drivers around:sweat:

Pulsar UG3 (Mar 07 -> 21 Jan 2009)

S4 Ver S. (Scrapped May 2010)

S4 Revo (05 Aug 2010 -> current)

Posted
Just the tank?...may be about $150. I know someone did it for $350 inclusive of front fender and back cowling. If you have special triming paint work job..expect to pay more lah.

 

huh??? just the fuel tank to re-spray only... $150???

 

then if i buy a 2nd hand fuel tank. plus respray... will be like $200 over... even more expensive then i sent to wield and respray... mech quote me for about $140... total...

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/asset.php?fid=279659&uid=24812&d=1407032960
Posted
huh??? just the fuel tank to re-spray only... $150???

 

then if i buy a 2nd hand fuel tank. plus respray... will be like $200 over... even more expensive then i sent to wield and respray... mech quote me for about $140... total...

 

Its up to you. Just telling you what I know.

 

There are 100 and 1 paint shop out there..some good some ok..and some do quickie job..and prices varies. I suggest you take the one that fancy your budget.

 

The paint job on my bike cost me $750. Nothing great about the design..just neat lining triming paint work and 5 layers of paint inclusive of baking, exterior anti-rust primer and good quality acrylic coating used.

 

So..for $150..not sure what you get. It's likely a sand down of your tank to plain base..one layer primer and 1 layer paint and final coat of acrylic laquer..and I'm not sure about paint work baking.

 

So..for every $ you pay out..there is something different. I don't compare prices for quality work..you should be happy for what you expect and pay for. No one gonna do a $500 job for your budget $100 as an example.

 

But then again..who knows..may be your $140 is worth your while.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Ah Pek, actually i find that in singapore no matter where you stop, there is still a chance of getting hit from behind. To many kuku drivers around:sweat:

 

LOL!...like that wah!!..I think may be it's about time we all petition for a "Bike Only" lane or start riding on the curb.:angel: Traffic polis catch you...just tell him you got Ku_Ku left, right and behind you.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

u guys ever experienced, when u push the start button, nothing happens? no crank sound, but ur headlight gets dimmer (normal for starting). i scared one day really cannot start at all then jialat sia!

 

anyway, fish man! just now evening going to simpang bedok. got one suv coming from minor side road (beside the florist) into upp changi rd. i high beam him, still come out. almost bang him sia! impatient rich boy! lucky next lane empty...

Posted
u guys ever experienced, when u push the start button, nothing happens? no crank sound, but ur headlight gets dimmer (normal for starting). i scared one day really cannot start at all then jialat sia!...

 

When was your last battery replace? Likely battery running dead. If its quite new...better have your rectifier charing rate output check...could be getting defective (new one cost about $85 to $95 - Japan made..China/Thailand about $65..check with LAB first..his original likely cheaper).

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

:cheeky: Wow!!!...good news to you all guys who are using black irob cast exhaust!!!...now Motoworld has a stainless steel header for all! The following is a snipped from their advertisment..yes..the word "stainless" is spelled wrongly :angel:

 

 

Wanna get rid of your old, rusty Exhaust header?

Sick of painting, and repainting your exhaust header and still end up rusting??

A Sainless Steel Header will slove your problem! CB400 Super 4 Stainless Steel Header for VerS and V-Tec!!

Errr....plse don't asked me how much..I duuno..you want you call...:sian:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
:cheeky: Wow!!!...good news to you all guys who are using black irob cast exhaust!!!...now Motoworld has a stainless steel header for all! The following is a snipped from their advertisment..yes..the word "stainless" is spelled wrongly :angel:

 

 

Wanna get rid of your old, rusty Exhaust header?

Sick of painting, and repainting your exhaust header and still end up rusting??

A Sainless Steel Header will slove your problem! CB400 Super 4 Stainless Steel Header for VerS and V-Tec!!

Errr....plse don't asked me how much..I duuno..you want you call...:sian:

 

If I'm not wrong, the MO price was $500. Dunno what's the price currently. It was started by a S4 forumer who went M'sia to source out the company selling stainless steel aftermarket S4 pipes.

 

:thumb: :thumb: If only money grew on trees. Gahmen give $200 oso no enuff to buy shiny headers! :faint:

 

Ah Pek, after the valve clearance, the bike smooth. But after it heats up, there's this metallic tic tic tic sound coming from the right top-block. It gets very loud when I stop at the redlight sia.. The tic tic is in tandem with the sound of the moving piston.

 

Valve? Just checked.

Tappet? What's that? Haha.

 

How to remove the sound??? :faint:

For the certainty of death and the knowledge of life's fragility, makes it worth living.

Posted

wonder will there be any significant change in the performance..me dun look into any increase in performance as it will lead to more fuel consumption...hope if I were to change,performance will be the SAME...:angel:

ride safe today,ride again tomorrow

Posted
If I'm not wrong, the MO price was $500. Dunno what's the price currently. It was started by a S4 forumer who went M'sia to source out the company selling stainless steel aftermarket S4 pipes.

 

:thumb: :thumb: If only money grew on trees. Gahmen give $200 oso no enuff to buy shiny headers! :faint:

 

at least still can pay by installment if got credit card..still not so bad..:cheeky:

ride safe today,ride again tomorrow

Posted

Deleted..identitcal post below.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
If I'm not wrong, the MO price was $500. Dunno what's the price currently. It was started by a S4 forumer who went M'sia to source out the company selling stainless steel aftermarket S4 pipes.

 

:thumb: :thumb: If only money grew on trees. Gahmen give $200 oso no enuff to buy shiny headers! :faint:

 

Ah Pek, after the valve clearance, the bike smooth. But after it heats up, there's this metallic tic tic tic sound coming from the right top-block. It gets very loud when I stop at the redlight sia.. The tic tic is in tandem with the sound of the moving piston.

 

Valve? Just checked.

Tappet? What's that? Haha.

 

How to remove the sound??? :faint:

 

Heh!...you can ha ha somemore..this is no good...if the ticking sound doesn't go away or settle down. It may be due to new parts and need to sit in after a few km run.

 

Better go back to them and asked them again. I believe that where the sound is coming from..the clearance may not set right. My concern is the size of the shim they used..not necessary the original as size thickness varies. if they used a differenct size one..they would do adjustment accordingly to what the difference from the original is.

 

It can be something loose too. Better go before you know where valve stem gonna go. If he tells you that because the parts are new..there is expansion and contraction that generate the ticking sound..and should go away..you better request for some sort of assurance aor may be a warranty. It could be an adjustment to the inlet/outlet valve clearance specs done wrong (miscaculation if a different size shim is used).

 

About the header..could be locally frabricated in malaysia then..I don't know..the internal structure and design factor is VERY important..something that is hard for us to see..don't be fool though if you got $$$s for it.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

I suspect something's wrong with my steering cone.

 

When I move off slowly (half-clutch), can feel the tyre swinging left and right. But very slight movements. At higher speeds, cannot feel.

 

I ruled out wheel bearings as I replaced them in november 2007. By right wheel bearings should last abt 1 year right?

 

Any idea what else could be causing the front wheel 'wobble'?

 

Balancing? Fork problems?

In a Time of Universal Deceit, Telling the Truth is a Revolutionary Act

Posted
wonder will there be any significant change in the performance..me dun look into any increase in performance as it will lead to more fuel consumption...hope if I were to change,performance will be the SAME...:angel:

 

I think you all better look into the different type of configuartion black exhaust you all have now. I see some have a "bridge" joint across the two pipes each or whatever. Not sure what they have but have a careful look at the internal diameter and the part that couples to your end can.

 

There would definitely be performance difference..for better or for worst..have to spend $$$s and find out. Normally you would be expecting a convincing dyno tested talk as usual.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
I suspect something's wrong with my steering cone.

 

When I move off slowly (half-clutch), can feel the tyre swinging left and right. But very slight movements. At higher speeds, cannot feel.

 

I ruled out wheel bearings as I replaced them in november 2007. By right wheel bearings should last abt 1 year right?

 

Any idea what else could be causing the front wheel 'wobble'?

 

Balancing? Fork problems?

 

...and front tyre.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Heh!...you can ha ha somemore..this is no good...if the ticking sound doesn't go away or settle down. It may be due to new parts and need to sit in after a few km run.

 

Better go back to them and asked them again. I believe that where the sound is coming from..the clearance may not set right. My concern is the size of the shim they used..not necessary the original as size thickness varies. if they used a differenct size one..they would do adjustment accordingly to what the difference from the original is.

 

It can be something loose too. Better go before you know where valve stem gonna go. If he tells you that because the parts are new..there is expansion and contraction that generate the ticking sound..and should go away..you better request for some sort of assurance aor may be a warranty. It could be an adjustment to the inlet/outlet valve clearance specs done wrong (miscaculation if a different size shim is used).

 

About the header..could be locally frabricated in malaysia then..I don't know..the internal structure and design factor is VERY important..something that is hard for us to see..don't be fool though if you got $$$s for it.

 

Ah Pek, but the tic tic tic sound already there before the valve clearance. I think it has nothing to do with the valve. What else could be the cause? Its metallic for sure.. Against metal. tic tic tic tic.

For the certainty of death and the knowledge of life's fragility, makes it worth living.

Posted

Yes..what I'm saying is that there is a bad job done for your valves work overall. The vavle is just a valve but there is a whole lot of other parts that forms the whole assembly of the mechanism. Ok..in this order...

 

1) Follower

2) Shim

3) Collets

4) Spring retainer

5) Valve Spring (very important)

6) Valve stem oil seal

7) Valve seat

8) Valve guide

9) Valve

 

In your case..you could have replace the shim..the valve clearance set..but the valve spring or some of the other components may not be up to spec. Normally..the whole setup replacement are recomended.

 

As for tappets..you would not find that in S4 engine but however a cam follower is similar in function. Most modern overhead camshaft engines the camshaft is directly over the valves.

 

In this case, shims are introduce into the space between the cam follower (tappet) and cam to create the necessary clearance, or by hydraulic adjusters.

 

To your earlier question as to what a tappet is (sorry missed out this earlier).. A tappet is a mechanical metal projection which imparts a linear motion to the intake and exhaust valve stem and is a part of a rocker arm that you do not find in an overhead camshaft engine. The cam follower is sort of a like this tappet in an overhead camshaft engine.

 

Clearance between the tappet surface and the valve's contact surface was maintained by means of an adjustment screw on the rocker arm which now being replace by shim and follower.

 

Now you have a basic grasp..in short what has Unique done as far as valve clearance is concerned..I believe the shim was replaced..but is it original size thickness (have a few size)..than was the follower replaced and the valve spring check for effective functionality. If the spring is not up to spec and S4 engine being a high rpm engine...problem of "valve float" is a problem (occurs when a valve spring cannot close the valve quickly enough at high engine rpm).

 

So you see..there is lots more than just "check valve clearance" and shim replacement...any other components in the above mentioned components, especially old mixed with new can contribute to that tick tick sound. Now..think about it...its a valve train thingy..in all..you have 16 valves and the last time the $$$s spend..I think nothing much was done..errr..well..may be "professionaly" is the word to use. The next time..you want to open up the cyclinder head..make sure its a "top overhaul" job which is more proper....not valve clearance.

 

Hope a lot of ppl read this.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Yes..what I'm saying is that there is a bad job done for your valves work overall. The vavle is just a valve but there is a whole lot of other parts that forms the whole assembly of the mechanism. Ok..in this order...

 

1) Follower

2) Shim

3) Collets

4) Spring retainer

5) Valve Spring (very important)

6) Valve stem oil seal

7) Valve seat

8) Valve guide

9) Valve

 

In your case..you could have replace the shim..the valve clearance set..but the valve spring or some of the other components may not be up to spec. Normally..the whole setup replacement are recomended.

 

As for tappets..you would not find that in S4 engine but however a cam follower is similar in function. Most modern overhead camshaft engines the camshaft is directly over the valves.

 

In this case, shims are introduce into the space between the cam follower (tappet) and cam to create the necessary clearance, or by hydraulic adjusters.

 

To your earlier question as to what a tappet is (sorry missed out this earlier).. A tappet is a mechanical metal projection which imparts a linear motion to the intake and exhaust valve stem and is a part of a rocker arm that you do not find in an overhead camshaft engine. The cam follower is sort of a like this tappet in an overhead camshaft engine.

 

Clearance between the tappet surface and the valve's contact surface was maintained by means of an adjustment screw on the rocker arm which now being replace by shim and follower.

 

Now you have a basic grasp..in short what has Unique done as far as valve clearance is concerned..I believe the shim was replaced..but is it original size thickness (have a few size)..than was the follower replaced and the valve spring check for effective functionality. If the spring is not up to spec and S4 engine being a high rpm engine...problem of "valve float" is a problem (occurs when a valve spring cannot close the valve quickly enough at high engine rpm).

 

So you see..there is lots more than just "check valve clearance" and shim replacement...any other components in the above mentioned components, especially old mixed with new can contribute to that tick tick sound. Now..think about it...its a valve train thingy..in all..you have 16 valves and the last time the $$$s spend..I think nothing much was done..errr..well..may be "professionaly" is the word to use. The next time..you want to open up the cyclinder head..make sure its a "top overhaul" job which is more proper....not valve clearance.

 

Hope a lot of ppl read this.

 

Here's an image of the valve assembly...

 

 

[ATTACH]66769[/ATTACH]

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
:cheeky: Wow!!!...good news to you all guys who are using black irob cast exhaust!!!...now Motoworld has a stainless steel header for all! The following is a snipped from their advertisment..yes..the word "stainless" is spelled wrongly :angel:

 

 

Wanna get rid of your old, rusty Exhaust header?

Sick of painting, and repainting your exhaust header and still end up rusting??

A Sainless Steel Header will slove your problem! CB400 Super 4 Stainless Steel Header for VerS and V-Tec!!

Errr....plse don't asked me how much..I duuno..you want you call...:sian:

 

I think $600 ...

3 Arai Helmet Meets Up :angel:

Posted
Here's an image of the valve assembly...

 

 

[ATTACH]66769[/ATTACH]

 

Wah! Such an intricate numbers of parts forming just one valve assembly! It's like any of those parts could be out of alignment or SPOILT! :faint: Top overhaul..... Bo lui leh~ :giddy:

For the certainty of death and the knowledge of life's fragility, makes it worth living.

Posted
Wah! Such an intricate numbers of parts forming just one valve assembly! It's like any of those parts could be out of alignment or SPOILT! :faint: Top overhaul..... Bo lui leh~ :giddy:

 

Just go back to them and tell them the noise is still there. Likely and hopefully if they live by their reputation as a pro mech shop..they should try and rectifier the problem.

 

I'm not sure how long the last job took..but by right, they should let the bike run hot and listen out before handling over to you. Tic tic tic simply means that metal surface is tapping metal surface between a small gap and what we can think off is that, the gap setting is not right and it can be the follower over the shim or valve clearance sitting not set right. There are 16 of them..have to zero on the right one..may be more than one.

 

As far as $$$s is concern..tell them you paid good money and a good job was expected and see how things work out. again..if its gonna be labourous...thye can just tell you other parts oso need to change. Well..better be smart in your approach..don't smile and show a happy face...LOL!

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • DAIS_ShellBAU2024_Motorcycle_SingaporeBikesBanner_300x250.jpg

     
×
×
  • Create New...