[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[Ah Pek]

I need some help on this:

 

I am having difficulty shifting up/down from 2nd to 3rd AND 3rd to 4th gear. What happens is that the gear will not engage.

 

Any idea why this happens? Really sucks cos I cannot accelerate properly without shifting gears efficiently!

 

(And engine oil I jus changed, clutch plates not slipping)

 

Eo plays a very minor part but go tension up your chain and check your adjustment for your clutch cables (handle side and lower end - right side).

[Ah Pek]

my problem somthing like urs,top speed when reaching 140,rpm wil stop incresing(around 9k),speed wil maintain around they,i try using 5 gear,same thing,when reaching 140,rpm wil stop increasing(around 10k++)

something wrong,but i dont know were,just get my s4 last week only,today try e top speed,0-130kmh is v fast n smooth,problem is when reaching 140,like stuck there,any idea guy??anywhere,im riding PB1(i think is pb1)..tks in advance..

 

This has something to do with your main wire hardness not matching to the meter assembly components and CDI. Go back to the mototiam and tell them ur problem. My PB1 hit 190km/hr anytime.

 

I have seen Ver S with PB1 electrical hardness and PB1 CD1..bike oso now power. I have seen Ver S model with Ver "R" tank and meter and the CDI power cutoff cannot be solved.

[Ah Pek]

Yeap, headlight working and the plug is outside the headlight, near the meter area, dunnoe whats that..

 

Your main hardness and your meter cables assembly are all rojax liao. The socket that hang loose are either likely not use bekuz its can't be used with your main hardness. This loose socket or plug is likely from your metyer assembly...just follow it and see if I'm right.

 

Remember that there are four socket/plug with their cables in the headlamp housing. 1..from start/ignition switch assembly (right handle side)...2..from your headlamp switch and signal assembly (left handle side)..3..two from the meter assembly (one red and one transparent white I think). When they are not plug in..that means that the plug and sockets are not compatible and cannot be used due to voltage supply difference or wiring pin colour different. Don't anyhow plug just because they fit..wrong voltage and pin clour can create 'fireworks' and blown fuses. This is common oso when mech starts to cut and "jumper" wires here and there just to make things works.

[fluzzy]

These are normal lah. Hard to explain but its about uneven wear and tear of clutch plates, clutch spring action and rotational stuff inside the clutch assembly. Nothing you can do away with it but adjsuting your chain to its correct tension and your clutch cable help to a certain extend.

 

ohh, was told by my friend that the sound is normal, but mine is too loud.

then does changing the clutch plates help?

 

anyway ah pek, do take care of yourself. do let me know the day you are available to meet up, maybe once you get to hear and feel, i can get your input and i can know what to change.

[Ah Pek]

oic,just curious,u mean e pcb apply to all type of super 4 meter?for version s n pb1 hv?wondering e pcb at speedo meter side for wat?anw,wat version u riding bro?

 

 

Some of this problems are caused by bad or corroded wirings to the meter assembling..especially the mrp and speedo circuit board, Can be resolve by doing some wiring job..not easy but possible...been there

[Ah Pek]

ohh, was told by my friend that the sound is normal, but mine is too loud.

then does changing the clutch plates help?

 

anyway ah pek, do take care of yourself. do let me know the day you are available to meet up, maybe once you get to hear and feel, i can get your input and i can know what to change.

 

Can come down on Tuesday anytime..have to see oyur bike. What eo are u using?..have u ever adjust your clutch cable before and what about your chain tension? Most clutch plates last a loooong time. Once you change new clutch plates...a lot of things like clutch cables..etc has been readjusted..of course there is a difference for the better..but its not slipping, why need to change.

[fluzzy]

Can come down on Tuesday anytime..have to see oyur bike. What eo are u using?..have u ever adjust your clutch cable before and what about your chain tension? Most clutch plates last a loooong time. Once you change new clutch plates...a lot of things like clutch cables..etc has been readjusted..of course there is a difference for the better..but its not slipping, why need to change.

 

alright i come on tuesday afternoon then after 3pm. before 5pm. i drop a PM for you once i get a confirmation time.

 

first of all, when neutral. i clutch in, the sound got different. like smth is loose.

 

secondly, the change gear sound is too loud. i dont know how to describe.

 

i havent change new clutch plate, and i doubt the previous owner change before. and i try playing with the clutch cable, like no different. chain i havent tried it yet.

 

i used castrol EO. i think my bike, need to do minor adjustment then ok. hopefully you can look at it and give me your input. my handlebar aligntment is also out.

[raziin_360]

hello evrione.. im riding a vs.. i think my cdi unit is fried. there's like a transparent yellowish rubber-liked liquid oozing out from the cdi... anyone knows how much does a cdi cost..?? thnx alot guys..

[Ah Pek]

hello evrione.. im riding a vs.. i think my cdi unit is fried. there's like a transparent yellowish rubber-liked liquid oozing out from the cdi... anyone knows how much does a cdi cost..?? thnx alot guys..

 

Cost at least $350-$380.

[Dimac]

Hope you are ok with the skid. just not your day i guess.. haha..

 

btw, ah pek. when i ride my bike with both hands i can see and feel the my handlebar is shaky alittle bit. but when my right hand is on the throttle, its shaky. but when i free hand the bike starts to wobble then feel vibration. can say when free hand very scary. now dont dare to play corner already.

is it due to wheel bearing or cone bearing?

before this starts i did pump air to it still the same. so i suspect its the bearing.

mind explaining wat is wheel and cone bearing?

[Ah Pek]

Hope you are ok with the skid. just not your day i guess.. haha..

 

btw, ah pek. when i ride my bike with both hands i can see and feel the my handlebar is shaky alittle bit. but when my right hand is on the throttle, its shaky. but when i free hand the bike starts to wobble then feel vibration. can say when free hand very scary. now dont dare to play corner already.

is it due to wheel bearing or cone bearing?

before this starts i did pump air to it still the same. so i suspect its the bearing.

mind explaining wat is wheel and cone bearing?

 

In your case, its usually caused by irregular or uneveness of front tyre wear and tear due to improper tyre pressure..check see if your tyre centre has 'ripples' or uneven depression just next to it.

 

Cone and wheel bearings can be the caused too but not that intense. To test cone bearing (in case you drop bike before)..move forward in first gear a bit and brake hard. If you hear knoocking noise..it's damage then. Another method is to have the front wheel up and swing the handle left and right...it should feel very stiff and stop half way thru.

 

As for fron't wheel bearing, the best method is to level up the front wheel and spin it hard and use the palm of your hand on the lower fork tibe to feel for "metal grinding" vibration. If there is, the bearing need to be replaced soon.

 

Also check for screw tightness on the upper and lower fork clamp..two on top and two below. Loosesness of any of these can caused the same sympton.

[stRobe]

Eo plays a very minor part but go tension up your chain and check your adjustment for your clutch cables (handle side and lower end - right side).

 

Thanks Ah Pek. I'll try that..

 

Anyway, take care. These oil spills are really a hazard for us. Worse if the oil spills are not visible, especially when it rains!

[salem77]

ah pek 'the great' is finally back in the thread

 

btw, ure selling the repsol tank in ahfook's shop ???

 

wanna play repsol design on my pb1 lar.............

[sihan0110]

my suspension screw broke into two . the other half stuck inside the suspension . Zzzzzzzzzzzz

[Ah Pek]

Thanks Ah Pek. I'll try that..

 

Anyway, take care. These oil spills are really a hazard for us. Worse if the oil spills are not visible, especially when it rains!

 

If still cannot after adjusting clutch cable..likely cable stretch liao. U need to change..let me know..can do for u here.

[Ah Pek]

ah pek 'the great' is finally back in the thread

 

btw, ure selling the repsol tank in ahfook's shop ???

 

wanna play repsol design on my pb1 lar.............

 

U interested, pm me lah.

[Ah Pek]

my suspension screw broke into two . the other half stuck inside the suspension . Zzzzzzzzzzzz

 

LOL!...u got bull strength like Hercules arh.. Have to drill it out slowly lah using different type of drill size..from small to bigger and then carefully ko_rake the remaining threads fragments out. Can asked Ah Fook to do it for a small fee.

[Dimac]

In your case, its usually caused by irregular or uneveness of front tyre wear and tear due to improper tyre pressure..check see if your tyre centre has 'ripples' or uneven depression just next to it.

 

Cone and wheel bearings can be the caused too but not that intense. To test cone bearing (in case you drop bike before)..move forward in first gear a bit and brake hard. If you hear knoocking noise..it's damage then. Another method is to have the front wheel up and swing the handle left and right...it should feel very stiff and stop half way thru.

 

As for fron't wheel bearing, the best method is to level up the front wheel and spin it hard and use the palm of your hand on the lower fork tibe to feel for "metal grinding" vibration. If there is, the bearing need to be replaced soon.

 

Also check for screw tightness on the upper and lower fork clamp..two on top and two below. Loosesness of any of these can caused the same sympton.

 

But dont tell me coz of those ripples that makes the handling worst.. Like impossible to believe like dat. My fren say if riding 1 hand and can feel vibration means is the wheel/cone bearing. I aso scared gt some screw is loose frm the fork side.

Im pumping 235,270

[sihan0110]

ah pek my fuel indicator ok already . after going up north everything become fine . haha . the valve cleaner good stuff carrefour selling 1 for 15+++ .

[Ah Pek]

But dont tell me coz of those ripples that makes the handling worst.. Like impossible to believe like dat. My fren say if riding 1 hand and can feel vibration means is the wheel/cone bearing. I aso scared gt some screw is loose frm the fork side.

Im pumping 235,270

 

Vibration means cone bearing meh?..my cone bearing damage so bad oso no vibration. So ur bike got ripples or no ripples? Suggest in this case you go change cone bearing, $90 and then let us know the result.

[kano]

ah pek u still got stock for the valve cleaner and green oil??

 

wanna get...

kekekeke

[Ah Pek]

ah pek u still got stock for the valve cleaner and green oil??

 

wanna get...

kekekeke

 

 

Left one GO box and one valve cleaner..u want I reserve for you lah.

[dragonforce]

Sorry guys for MIA and thanks to those who called to find out and sending get well wishes here....bad luck last weekend...bike skidded on a patch of dried disel when I slowed down hard to avoid a female rider that filtered agreesively to my lane..not really her fault also lah...LOL!

 

Am recovering but still suffering from one legged pain. By Tuesday..should be ok.

 

have a good rest ah pek, havent met you for quite sometime.. have a speedy recovery..

[kano]

Left one GO box and one valve cleaner..u want I reserve for you lah.

 

 

thanks Ah Pek kekekekeke

[greenruby79]

Hi Ah Pek....hope you are recovering well. Just wanna ask, wats the Green Oil dat Kano is talking about. Is it some good stuff? Anyway i tink i need to get some of your Valve Cleaner. Also your X1R is good to my engine but when do you tink i should top it up again? Take care Ah Pek and get well soon.....Cheers :cheeky: