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Posted
Yoi bro..while you have indicated the 'problem' here..I have somewhat quite a few things to asked b4 I can give an approiate answer and a solution. When was the last time you do servicing like changing spark plugs to the type of eo you usues?..how much mileage from u clocked up already b4 this happens?..have you recently or at all open up ur carbs for servicing (which I DON'T recommend)?

 

If the above troubleshooting is done and yet ptoblrm persist, it could be due to bike aging wear and tear of the cyclinder wall due to loss of compression and any other components that has friction in function like con rod bearing and sure. Also could be the rubber ducting in fron and back of the carbs may have harden and cracks. Possibilties are many. If it's engine internal as mentioned earlier like lost of compression..an overhaul is need and is very expensive (in thosands of $s), however I have a solution via applying liquid engineering means. There is a method that rejuvenates the cyclinder walls and all wear and tear metal surfaces that's way cheaper than a overhaul. It is basically renewing barrier layer by layer of metal wear surfaces and result in getting back all compression, maxs performances and reapiring all scratch metal surfaces..something a itemize replacement of component spend in tho$and$ can't do. I won't go further into this by if you are interested, just pm or sms me for further advise.

Erm.. my bike wash cub 2 years ago by previous owner.. everything seems fine untill lately. I nornally change EO at a interval of 3000km.. using full sys EO.. right now am at my 1500k mark only.. am using iradium plugs. Changed like 1000km ago only.. could it be like some timing chain??

JOSHUA

class2B -26/2/09

class 2A -27/7/10

class 3 - 6/1/11

class 2 - 30/8/12

 

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad44/jtzx/Image0020_JROT42b4_edited.gif?t=1246004022

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Posted
Just to let you guys here knows that there is a way to regain engine performance thru gaining back compression thus save in fuel consumption and much more by repairing the cylinder wall, pistons and rings without changing the parts via liquid engineering barrier layering. If any of you have issues with noise, vibration and such or about to replaced parts thru an overhaul..it's worth knowing that this works for you. The method would not be discuss here as it's just not approximate but if you are interested to know more..just pm me or sms me.

Yup i need to get my engine block gasket replaced before trying out this. Seems quite uniqued. hard to find such product in town. Seems no workshop import such good stuff

JOSHUA

class2B -26/2/09

class 2A -27/7/10

class 3 - 6/1/11

class 2 - 30/8/12

 

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad44/jtzx/Image0020_JROT42b4_edited.gif?t=1246004022

Posted
Erm.. my bike wash cub 2 years ago by previous owner.. everything seems fine untill lately. I nornally change EO at a interval of 3000km.. using full sys EO.. right now am at my 1500k mark only.. am using iradium plugs. Changed like 1000km ago only.. could it be like some timing chain??

 

If it makes a lot of noise and ur idling too slow..the possibility could be the Cam chain tensioner not the timing change. You may want to have the tensioner replace first as it does not involve disassembling the engine. The spring gets sloppy after years of usage and does not push hard enough the tensioner slippers inside that cushion the cam (timing) chain back lashes while bike is idling. The tensioner is the big looking thing protruding out near ur engine block below center.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
If it makes a lot of noise and ur idling too slow..the possibility could be the Cam chain tensioner not the timing change. You may want to have the tensioner replace first as it does not involve disassembling the engine. The spring gets sloppy after years of usage and does not push hard enough the tensioner slippers inside that cushion the cam (timing) chain back lashes while bike is idling. The tensioner is the big looking thing protruding out near ur engine block below center.

 

There is an optional solution beside replacing the blown gasket without having it replaced with a a new one.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
There is an optional solution beside replacing the blown gasket without having it replaced with a a new one.

What other options??

JOSHUA

class2B -26/2/09

class 2A -27/7/10

class 3 - 6/1/11

class 2 - 30/8/12

 

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad44/jtzx/Image0020_JROT42b4_edited.gif?t=1246004022

Posted
What other options??

 

Using special sealant for engine.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Just to let you guys here knows that there is a way to regain engine performance thru gaining back compression thus save in fuel consumption and much more by repairing the cylinder wall, pistons and rings without changing the parts via liquid engineering barrier layering. If any of you have issues with noise, vibration and such or about to replaced parts thru an overhaul..it's worth knowing that this works for you. The method would not be discuss here as it's just not approximate but if you are interested to know more..just pm me or sms me.

Wah,ah pek got new medicine:p

Posted

After so long I didnt ride,my bike had some problem.sometime when I wanted to start,cant start n no crank at all..need to kick side stand n clutch in then will crank n start..wat happen to my "wife"...?

Posted
Wah,ah pek got new medicine:p

 

:smile::bounce::smile:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
After so long I didnt ride,my bike had some problem.sometime when I wanted to start,cant start n no crank at all..need to kick side stand n clutch in then will crank n start..wat happen to my "wife"...?

 

SOund more like a netural switch problem. Try cleaning the switch area just under the bike near and behind the side stand area with kerosene. The oily and dirt residues there may be causing contact problem.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
SOund more like a netural switch problem. Try cleaning the switch area just under the bike near and behind the side stand area with kerosene. The oily and dirt residues there may be causing contact problem.

Ok..I will try it later.thks bro:)

Posted
Wah,ah pek got new medicine:p

 

I research about it.. seems quite good stuff in the states. but not in SGP.. worth trying. good engine compression = solid idelling also

JOSHUA

class2B -26/2/09

class 2A -27/7/10

class 3 - 6/1/11

class 2 - 30/8/12

 

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad44/jtzx/Image0020_JROT42b4_edited.gif?t=1246004022

Posted

Greeting,

 

May I kindly enquire with you guys season S4 rider without vtec. Is there any difference between Ver s and Vtec 1-3? I heard Vtec bike can hit 180 clear meter no issue but ver S got abit problem? Do kindly teach me and share with me your knowledge.

Posted
Greeting,

 

May I kindly enquire with you guys season S4 rider without vtec. Is there any difference between Ver s and Vtec 1-3? I heard Vtec bike can hit 180 clear meter no issue but ver S got abit problem? Do kindly teach me and share with me your knowledge.

I believe is the other way around cos all new bikes got power cut

Yamaha TZR > Kawasaki KIPS >> Suzuki GSX-K >>> Honda NSR >>>> Yamaha RX-Z >>>>> Honda CB400 Ver S >>>>>> Kymco X400i

Posted
Greeting,

 

May I kindly enquire with you guys season S4 rider without vtec. Is there any difference between Ver s and Vtec 1-3? I heard Vtec bike can hit 180 clear meter no issue but ver S got abit problem? Do kindly teach me and share with me your knowledge.

 

Trust me when i say that is not the case. My bike can easily clear meter and I'm riding a stock ver s, except for pipe.

Posted

Hi bros,

 

my S4 fuel gauge moves a round alot. Like when accelerate, stop, etc, the fuel gauge can go up and down one.

 

I did google and they say is the fuel gauge buffer resistor that might have problem.

 

Anyone with S4 have this problem? Do i need to change my fuel gauge? or is the problem somewhere else

 

Thx

Posted

Greetings,

 

May I kindly ask you guys if anyone know where to get it change to spec 3 tail for ver s? and what is the cost of it??. And is it possible to change the tank to vtec tank?? =D TIA.

Posted

For any of you guys that might have problems with 'rough' or 'gets-hot-too-fast' bikes, you should definitely head down and try Ah Pek's specially formulated Engine Oil and special X1R coolant. I went down to do these 2 servicing items as I felt that my bike, while performing reasonably well in daily commuting, was perhaps lacking somewhat in certain areas to truly make it the beast I know it can be.

 

For one, my '97 Ver S would get unseasonably hot after certain periods of riding, like for example , if I were to take an extended ride through the tunnels of the KPE. Similarly, my bike, while smooth in the lower gears, would struggle and start vibrating quite harshly around the 6.5k RPM mark or at speeds above 115-120km/h.

 

However, after changing to Ah Pek's special blend of EO and coolant, my bike was a whole 'nother animal. A simple test ride was 'ordered' by Ah Pek after he had done these two servicing components and boy, was I pleasantly surprised by the performance! Exiting from AMK Ave 5 onto the CTE, a short 'whack' through a couple of lanes had me flying right up smoothly to 120km/h ish, without me even realising - that was how smooth my bike was. Similarly, my journey home from work, which often takes me through the oven that is the KPE, suited my newly-serviced bike to a T - sealed with the beauty of Ah Pek's EO/coolant, my bike was well, cool as a cucumber, with not one sign of the red temperature light even beginning to blink into action.

 

So, if anyone has any problem with their Super 4, I'd just like to humbly recommend Ah Pek's servicing. I have no regrets thus far, and I don't anticipate any ( at least for the next 20,000 km - yes, that's how long it's rated to last). Top servicing, top job, top man. Thanks Ah Pek!

Posted
For any of you guys that might have problems with 'rough' or 'gets-hot-too-fast' bikes, you should definitely head down and try Ah Pek's specially formulated Engine Oil and special X1R coolant. I went down to do these 2 servicing items as I felt that my bike, while performing reasonably well in daily commuting, was perhaps lacking somewhat in certain areas to truly make it the beast I know it can be.

 

For one, my '97 Ver S would get unseasonably hot after certain periods of riding, like for example , if I were to take an extended ride through the tunnels of the KPE. Similarly, my bike, while smooth in the lower gears, would struggle and start vibrating quite harshly around the 6.5k RPM mark or at speeds above 115-120km/h.

 

However, after changing to Ah Pek's special blend of EO and coolant, my bike was a whole 'nother animal. A simple test ride was 'ordered' by Ah Pek after he had done these two servicing components and boy, was I pleasantly surprised by the performance! Exiting from AMK Ave 5 onto the CTE, a short 'whack' through a couple of lanes had me flying right up smoothly to 120km/h ish, without me even realising - that was how smooth my bike was. Similarly, my journey home from work, which often takes me through the oven that is the KPE, suited my newly-serviced bike to a T - sealed with the beauty of Ah Pek's EO/coolant, my bike was well, cool as a cucumber, with not one sign of the red temperature light even beginning to blink into action.

 

So, if anyone has any problem with their Super 4, I'd just like to humbly recommend Ah Pek's servicing. I have no regrets thus far, and I don't anticipate any ( at least for the next 20,000 km - yes, that's how long it's rated to last). Top servicing, top job, top man. Thanks Ah Pek!

Your bike will heat up easily n temperature often comes on?

Yamaha TZR > Kawasaki KIPS >> Suzuki GSX-K >>> Honda NSR >>>> Yamaha RX-Z >>>>> Honda CB400 Ver S >>>>>> Kymco X400i

Posted
Your bike will heat up easily n temperature often comes on?

 

Yup, especially during daytime riding on arterial roads / non-expressway riding speeds. And almost always if I'm in the KPE. My fan is always switched on (I have a handlebar-mounted switch to regulate the fan) in all these previous scenarios. But as Ah Pek advised me, I shouldn't actually need to switch on the fan at all, as there's an auto 'on' function to it. And he's right,as after changing to his coolant mix, my bike has not yet once had the temperature light switch on. So I'm a happy camper!

Posted
Yup, especially during daytime riding on arterial roads / non-expressway riding speeds. And almost always if I'm in the KPE. My fan is always switched on (I have a handlebar-mounted switch to regulate the fan) in all these previous scenarios. But as Ah Pek advised me, I shouldn't actually need to switch on the fan at all, as there's an auto 'on' function to it. And he's right,as after changing to his coolant mix, my bike has not yet once had the temperature light switch on. So I'm a happy camper!

Just FYI, my ver s had never encountered temp light on even during the 2 years of riding. I was only using less than $20 coolant. Even when I was stuck in woodlands custom jam, there was not a single time that the light went off. So I guess your bike was not in good condition to begin with

Yamaha TZR > Kawasaki KIPS >> Suzuki GSX-K >>> Honda NSR >>>> Yamaha RX-Z >>>>> Honda CB400 Ver S >>>>>> Kymco X400i

Posted

Need help urgently...where can i get bikini cowl for PB1? Its not the half type (GIVI) but full cover the headlights? I saw a couple of SF's riders using them but don't know where to get and the price. If someone here can help please let me know. Thanks in advance. Cheers...

Posted
Greetings,

 

May I kindly ask you guys if anyone know where to get it change to spec 3 tail for ver s? and what is the cost of it??. And is it possible to change the tank to vtec tank?? =D TIA.

 

 

hey, you can try changing at any accessories shop. roughly $199 without the fender. but i highly do not reccomend. keep your version s stock!

i've met a guy who changed to a vtec tank, its possible but he did something to he oil indicator think(this was 2 years ago) and i don't really recalled the details.

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