[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[schoolboy]

Thanks ahpek!

[schoolboy]

Hi guys, juz bought S4 ver S Coe ending 2016. West coast Workshop I bought it from said everything okay. Did t detect any form of leaking from engine block. Wads the next step for preventive checks, card tuning /servicing,etc? Any workshop dat specialise in Super 4 to recommend?

 

Hey bro, for what i usually do, i try to do full servicing myself. That way i know which parts has missing bolts, wear and tear and also i can clean internally of the bike. When changing of your spark plugs, i use toilet roll to wipe out any water in there. I use the old engine oil to lubricate the chain and sprocket. Get yourself a proper coolant and flush out the old one.

 

*that was what i did and still do. Different people have different ways.

[filbertjonathan]

heyyy how are you guys,

her is my update of my cb 400 SF, in progress,

I use CBR 600 arm, R1 upside down, GSXR rim and bore the engine up to 450 CC.

I have test drive in 3rd can reach 180 KPH .

i open the limiter,, i will update soon after all th stuff has finished

[ghost]

heyyy how are you guys,

her is my update of my cb 400 SF, in progress,

I use CBR 600 arm, R1 upside down, GSXR rim and bore the engine up to 450 CC.

I have test drive in 3rd can reach 180 KPH .

i open the limiter,, i will update soon after all th stuff has finished

[ATTACH=CONFIG]315239[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]315240[/ATTACH]

Changed so much, why dun just get a CBR1000 or R1?

[jtzx]

Ah pek can you advise me ?

 

Lately when i start up my bike in the afternoon or late morning for work. The engine idling quite bad.(after 8hrs . Normal.weather condition. ) Will stall by itself. Seems like the engine cannot breath. Need to reignite the engine again.

 

Used to be not like that months back.. what could be the problem? I wash my air filter like 6mths back nia.

Could it be some timing chain in engine?? @ahpek

Edited November 22, 2014 by jtzx

[schoolboy]

heyyy how are you guys,

her is my update of my cb 400 SF, in progress,

I use CBR 600 arm, R1 upside down, GSXR rim and bore the engine up to 450 CC.

I have test drive in 3rd can reach 180 KPH .

i open the limiter,, i will update soon after all th stuff has finished

[ATTACH=CONFIG]315239[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]315240[/ATTACH]

 

Damn. Is this a sg bike?

[schoolboy]

Afternoon ah pek, my friend just bought his ver s, went up to 170km/h and when he reached a traffic light, his bike timing was way way off. Idling can fluctuate from 1 to 3 rpm and moving off felt like loss of power from 1-4rpm. Suddenly when hit 5rpm, bike has so much torque. Kinda a jerky moving off. He went to unique and mechanic says need top overhaul because carb tuning all haywire and need to check everything. Can you advise?

[schoolboy]

And another thing, he changed to a thai ohlins and when he pillion me, the bike was soft. But when we rode on a bumpy road or hump, the bike feels super stiff. Very painful on the butt. Any input?

[jtzx]

SLE - SLE

More speed traps digitsl camera

 

http://goo.gl/maps/CVfl0

[syapek]

Wah something different! Ho

[syapek]

Wah something different! How much did you spend?

[syapek]

Bro, maybe setting? Heard gazi is reasonable.

[syapek]

Hi, my friend showed me a post in some foreign forum, whereby the guy has a problem in which his s4 can't go beyond 160km/h (iirc). He did open up his carb and stuffs. And another guy posted saying that in the speedometer housing, there's a metal disc which acts as restrictive and will cut once the bike hit that speed. Any advise, cuz I'm having the same problem I went to shop, says my carb is ok. I never heard of that speedometer thing. Could it be others? CDI? Ahpek or any one with knowledge?

[schoolboy]

step my friend

[sprocketty]

SLE - SLE

More speed traps digitsl camera

 

http://goo.gl/maps/CVfl0

 

Thx for warning bro.

[sprocketty]

Anyone knows where i can get ORIGINAL HONDA speedo/tachy replacement for Ver S / PB1?

 

If new, how much, and if old (good condition) how much?

 

Thx bros.

[Ah Pek]

Ah pek can you advise me ?

 

Lately when i start up my bike in the afternoon or late morning for work. The engine idling quite bad.(after 8hrs . Normal.weather condition. ) Will stall by itself. Seems like the engine cannot breath. Need to reignite the engine again.

 

Used to be not like that months back.. what could be the problem? I wash my air filter like 6mths back nia.

Could it be some timing chain in engine?? @ahpek

 

Yoi bro..while you have indicated the 'problem' here..I have somewhat quite a few things to asked b4 I can give an approiate answer and a solution. When was the last time you do servicing like changing spark plugs to the type of eo you usues?..how much mileage from u clocked up already b4 this happens?..have you recently or at all open up ur carbs for servicing (which I DON'T recommend)?

 

If the above troubleshooting is done and yet ptoblrm persist, it could be due to bike aging wear and tear of the cyclinder wall due to loss of compression and any other components that has friction in function like con rod bearing and sure. Also could be the rubber ducting in fron and back of the carbs may have harden and cracks. Possibilties are many. If it's engine internal as mentioned earlier like lost of compression..an overhaul is need and is very expensive (in thosands of $s), however I have a solution via applying liquid engineering means. There is a method that rejuvenates the cyclinder walls and all wear and tear metal surfaces that's way cheaper than a overhaul. It is basically renewing barrier layer by layer of metal wear surfaces and result in getting back all compression, maxs performances and reapiring all scratch metal surfaces..something a itemize replacement of component spend in tho$and$ can't do. I won't go further into this by if you are interested, just pm or sms me for further advise.

[Ah Pek]

Anyone knows where i can get ORIGINAL HONDA speedo/tachy replacement for Ver S / PB1?

 

If new, how much, and if old (good condition) how much?

 

Thx bros.

 

New is around $ close to $600 for an original and chion one fro LAB or Ebay is about $200+ (but be prepare for not perfect functional reading of rpm or coolant temp lite). Second is hard to say depending on condition.

 

You can tell the difference between chiong and original by the chrome coloring of the meter cup housing and mouting chassis panes..more shingy and britter and the red lettering a bit on the brighter side.

 

Try FJT or LAB and Everfit..Chiong Aik may be..or some of the Advertizer here in SBF.

Edited November 23, 2014 by Ah Pek

[Ah Pek]

Hi, my friend showed me a post in some foreign forum, whereby the guy has a problem in which his s4 can't go beyond 160km/h (iirc). He did open up his carb and stuffs. And another guy posted saying that in the speedometer housing, there's a metal disc which acts as restrictive and will cut once the bike hit that speed. Any advise, cuz I'm having the same problem I went to shop, says my carb is ok. I never heard of that speedometer thing. Could it be others? CDI? Ahpek or any one with knowledge?

 

This mandatory function was imposed to certain market from S4 Ver R onwards (a safety feature not to make one speed)..."S..and all Vtec..not sure about REVO) and is know as "top speed power cut-off". Only the last of the 1996 S4 model PB1 does not have maxs speed cut-off..even though the meter shows 190 km/hr maxs..a PB1 can actually run up to 210 km/hr. There are ways and methods in the past that owners adopted method to 'cheat' the sensing to bypass the maxs power cut-off..by modifying the CDI with a resistor or go get "Red Devil" (different model..different unit) bypass unit (cost about $150 at Aunty shop last time long ago).

[Ah Pek]

Just to let you guys here knows that there is a way to regain engine performance thru gaining back compression thus save in fuel consumption and much more by repairing the cylinder wall, pistons and rings without changing the parts via liquid engineering barrier layering. If any of you have issues with noise, vibration and such or about to replaced parts thru an overhaul..it's worth knowing that this works for you. The method would not be discuss here as it's just not approximate but if you are interested to know more..just pm me or sms me.

[jtzx]

Yoi bro..while you have indicated the 'problem' here..I have somewhat quite a few things to asked b4 I can give an approiate answer and a solution. When was the last time you do servicing like changing spark plugs to the type of eo you usues?..how much mileage from u clocked up already b4 this happens?..have you recently or at all open up ur carbs for servicing (which I DON'T recommend)?

 

If the above troubleshooting is done and yet ptoblrm persist, it could be due to bike aging wear and tear of the cyclinder wall due to loss of compression and any other components that has friction in function like con rod bearing and sure. Also could be the rubber ducting in fron and back of the carbs may have harden and cracks. Possibilties are many. If it's engine internal as mentioned earlier like lost of compression..an overhaul is need and is very expensive (in thosands of $s), however I have a solution via applying liquid engineering means. There is a method that rejuvenates the cyclinder walls and all wear and tear metal surfaces that's way cheaper than a overhaul. It is basically renewing barrier layer by layer of metal wear surfaces and result in getting back all compression, maxs performances and reapiring all scratch metal surfaces..something a itemize replacement of component spend in tho$and$ can't do. I won't go further into this by if you are interested, just pm or sms me for further advise.

Erm.. my bike wash cub 2 years ago by previous owner.. everything seems fine untill lately. I nornally change EO at a interval of 3000km.. using full sys EO.. right now am at my 1500k mark only.. am using iradium plugs. Changed like 1000km ago only.. could it be like some timing chain??

[jtzx]

Just to let you guys here knows that there is a way to regain engine performance thru gaining back compression thus save in fuel consumption and much more by repairing the cylinder wall, pistons and rings without changing the parts via liquid engineering barrier layering. If any of you have issues with noise, vibration and such or about to replaced parts thru an overhaul..it's worth knowing that this works for you. The method would not be discuss here as it's just not approximate but if you are interested to know more..just pm me or sms me.

Yup i need to get my engine block gasket replaced before trying out this. Seems quite uniqued. hard to find such product in town. Seems no workshop import such good stuff

[Ah Pek]

Erm.. my bike wash cub 2 years ago by previous owner.. everything seems fine untill lately. I nornally change EO at a interval of 3000km.. using full sys EO.. right now am at my 1500k mark only.. am using iradium plugs. Changed like 1000km ago only.. could it be like some timing chain??

 

If it makes a lot of noise and ur idling too slow..the possibility could be the Cam chain tensioner not the timing change. You may want to have the tensioner replace first as it does not involve disassembling the engine. The spring gets sloppy after years of usage and does not push hard enough the tensioner slippers inside that cushion the cam (timing) chain back lashes while bike is idling. The tensioner is the big looking thing protruding out near ur engine block below center.

[Ah Pek]

If it makes a lot of noise and ur idling too slow..the possibility could be the Cam chain tensioner not the timing change. You may want to have the tensioner replace first as it does not involve disassembling the engine. The spring gets sloppy after years of usage and does not push hard enough the tensioner slippers inside that cushion the cam (timing) chain back lashes while bike is idling. The tensioner is the big looking thing protruding out near ur engine block below center.

 

There is an optional solution beside replacing the blown gasket without having it replaced with a a new one.

[jtzx]

There is an optional solution beside replacing the blown gasket without having it replaced with a a new one.

What other options??