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Suzuki Hayabusa


bongster6

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Nothing for you to be sorry about. You were sharing suggestion. Thats what forum is for, sharing. By the way, how fast is the shipping from boostbysmith?

 

they shipped by usps, i got it about 2 yrs back. so can't recall how fast the delivery was, about a week or so i think.

If you have a heart that obeys your mind, you can win the whole world.

If you have a mind that obeys your heart, you can win the love of many hearts.

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Wah, damn serious...i always thot busa acceleration is fast liao, never know in comparison to the 1 litre bikes busa is actually "slow" ...guess i am out of touch as i m a come back biker having stop for 10yrs...Then again, i can still derives great satisfaction when manipulating the fat lady around bents. My point is, i feel busa brings balance to power and comfort, which is more than i can say for those race replicas. My only gripe is no main stand for GEN2, which makes it a real pain as a sport tourer...

 

Busa is heavier than a stock 1000. Given that the newer 1000cc is getting the 180hp package as well, it is no wonder if they are quicker than busa. I just hope after derestircting, the busa can at least be on par with the 1000cc in term of acceleration.

 

But Busa does have a certain road presence. To a non bike owner, they will feel that busa is a BIG BIKE and usually they will tend to give way to you.

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I see, thanks! Just a click away from clicking the "BUY IT" button. TAHAN!

 

JUST DO IT bro !!!!!

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t265/camounation/saLem77.jpg

MY RIDES

RXZ135 botoL powered / WR200 FMF powered - RXZ D CLUB

SUPER4 VTEC2 Micron powered - S4M

R1 '07 LE Akrapovic powered

HAYABUSA '99 Scorpion powered - SgBusaRiderz

SUPER4 PB1 / 125z Rockstar

RXZ135 Japan-modeL 6-speed lemang powered

 

carousell.com/shasalem.biz :D

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I see, thanks! Just a click away from clicking the "BUY IT" button. TAHAN!

 

u have to email greg smith himself to ask him on how to 'buy' the shipping cost.

if u just buy it, it does not include the shipping charges. cheers..

If you have a heart that obeys your mind, you can win the whole world.

If you have a mind that obeys your heart, you can win the love of many hearts.

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u have to email greg smith himself to ask him on how to 'buy' the shipping cost.

if u just buy it, it does not include the shipping charges. cheers..

 

I just found out Greg is selling thru eBay as well. Usd200+usd28 shipped. Hmmm... after my hatyai trip then decide.

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http://image.superstreetbike.com/f/8874148+w750+st0/030_0312_04z+2000_suzuki_hayabusa+turbo_view.jpg

 

Any bros here know of any workshop in Spore provide this service???

 

Do a bit more homework....

 

U will need more than this to get it to work

 

Good luck

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I just found out Greg is selling thru eBay as well. Usd200+usd28 shipped. Hmmm... after my hatyai trip then decide.

 

btw, what is this item actually? i'm guessing its not only the top speed derestricter..

If you have a heart that obeys your mind, you can win the whole world.

If you have a mind that obeys your heart, you can win the love of many hearts.

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btw, what is this item actually? i'm guessing its not only the top speed derestricter..

 

The item is just a USB interface cable to connect the ECU to the PC. Then use the free software provided online to HACK the ECU. Heres the link to the product page, click me. Actually the hacker also produce a schematic diagram of the cable design for ppl to built themselves. But Greg basically built and sell the cable for those who do not know how to make one.

 

Basically you can do lots of adjustment on the stock ECU without any piggyback device, here are some of the things you can do,

 

1) Ability to view all sensors data with a laptop connected

2) Ability to clear fault codes

3) Ability to change fueling maps (both IAP and TPS maps) for better, more precise tuning than piggyback systems.

4) Ability to change ignition maps (you can add timing in the lower gears like a TRE does without messing up your gear based fuel curves)

5) Increase your factory rev limiter (current software supports up to 12,500 RPM)

6) Remove the 6th gear speed restriction with the click of a button

7) Ability to dis-able soft cut limiters which can burn up your NOS or Turbo bike, hard-cut shuts all injectors down vs just a couple.

8) Turn your ECU into an ignition / fuel kill box for use with an air/co2 shifter. Gen 2 Busas's can utilize gear based engine kill times (different kill time for each gear)

9) Switch-able map selection for NOS, different turbo boost levels, fuel types etc

10) Import maps from other fuel tuning devices (testing phase right now)

11) Replace stock map sensor with GM 3 bar for boost referenced fueling for turbo bikes

12) Disable O2 sensor, pair valve, IAT sensor for dyno tuning purposes.

13) Ability to tune secondary throttle blade opening (don't remove those secondary flies you will loose hp)

14) NOW AVAILABLE: ECU controlled progressive gear based Nitrous/Fuel/Ignition Ramp Rate Control. http://www.boostbysmith.com/ecunos2.html for details.

15) This works on Bking as well though at the moment doesn't have as many features (B-king you can re-destrict, map fueling, increase rev limiter, use ecu as kill box, dis-able exup, canister, O2 sensor, pair valve)

16) As of 01/08/2010 07-08 GSXR1000 Functionality for fuel/ignition mapping, de-restriction, limiter increase added, more features to follow soon like shift kill etc.

 

**copy from the website.

 

And if not wrong, it can also autotune as well but not precise as it is using the stock narrow band O2 sensor to read. It like buying a PC5, secondary injector controller kit, Ignition module, map switch and so much more for the price of USD228. So it actually quite worth for money. Best part is, you get to save the space from putting so many device on the bike. Bascially the ECU will do all the work. And if you want to dyno tune, Racewerk can do tuning charging by per hour. It not cheap.

 

Actually I am only interested in point 4,5 and 6. So I will only use the cable once and thats it. So it kinda a high price to pay just to satisfy my ego. But yesterday one wise friend told me this " Just open throttle more during low end lor and you still have USD228 inside your bank". hahaha.. quite true. And I am also afraid the gain might not be significant. I might just try using my DIY TRE to unlock the low end restriction to test the feeling first.

Edited by kinwei
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dear bros,so tml meetup still on?

02- 03 - Nsr sp 150

03- 04 - Cbr 400

03- 05- YzF R1

04- 06 - Wave R

06- 06- YZF R1

06- 07 - lancer

07- 08 - civic ,08- 09 - Honda Fit,09- 09 - Spark 135

09- 10 - SPEC 2

10 - 11 - CIVIC , 11 - ?? - HayaBuSa

http://r9.fodey.com/2066/ef9c8a3140714894a5ef47796aa9b9aa.0.gifhttp://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f5/teamghoul/21052006.jpg

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The item is just a USB interface cable to connect the ECU to the PC. Then use the free software provided online to HACK the ECU. Heres the link to the product page, click me. Actually the hacker also produce a schematic diagram of the cable design for ppl to built themselves. But Greg basically built and sell the cable for those who do not know how to make one.

 

Basically you can do lots of adjustment on the stock ECU without any piggyback device, here are some of the things you can do,

 

1) Ability to view all sensors data with a laptop connected

2) Ability to clear fault codes

3) Ability to change fueling maps (both IAP and TPS maps) for better, more precise tuning than piggyback systems.

4) Ability to change ignition maps (you can add timing in the lower gears like a TRE does without messing up your gear based fuel curves)

5) Increase your factory rev limiter (current software supports up to 12,500 RPM)

6) Remove the 6th gear speed restriction with the click of a button

7) Ability to dis-able soft cut limiters which can burn up your NOS or Turbo bike, hard-cut shuts all injectors down vs just a couple.

8) Turn your ECU into an ignition / fuel kill box for use with an air/co2 shifter. Gen 2 Busas's can utilize gear based engine kill times (different kill time for each gear)

9) Switch-able map selection for NOS, different turbo boost levels, fuel types etc

10) Import maps from other fuel tuning devices (testing phase right now)

11) Replace stock map sensor with GM 3 bar for boost referenced fueling for turbo bikes

12) Disable O2 sensor, pair valve, IAT sensor for dyno tuning purposes.

13) Ability to tune secondary throttle blade opening (don't remove those secondary flies you will loose hp)

14) NOW AVAILABLE: ECU controlled progressive gear based Nitrous/Fuel/Ignition Ramp Rate Control. http://www.boostbysmith.com/ecunos2.html for details.

15) This works on Bking as well though at the moment doesn't have as many features (B-king you can re-destrict, map fueling, increase rev limiter, use ecu as kill box, dis-able exup, canister, O2 sensor, pair valve)

16) As of 01/08/2010 07-08 GSXR1000 Functionality for fuel/ignition mapping, de-restriction, limiter increase added, more features to follow soon like shift kill etc.

 

**copy from the website.

 

And if not wrong, it can also autotune as well but not precise as it is using the stock narrow band O2 sensor to read. It like buying a PC5, secondary injector controller kit, Ignition module, map switch and so much more for the price of USD228. So it actually quite worth for money. Best part is, you get to save the space from putting so many device on the bike. Bascially the ECU will do all the work. And if you want to dyno tune, Racewerk can do tuning charging by per hour. It not cheap.

 

Actually I am only interested in point 4,5 and 6. So I will only use the cable once and thats it. So it kinda a high price to pay just to satisfy my ego. But yesterday one wise friend told me this " Just open throttle more during low end lor and you still have USD228 inside your bank". hahaha.. quite true. And I am also afraid the gain might not be significant. I might just try using my DIY TRE to unlock the low end restriction to test the feeling first.

 

yo bro. u got ur usb harness alr ah? congratz wor. how is it wif the direct ECU hacking?

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tomorrow i confirm ON. but there is where??

3/6/2011

9pm till late

Changi Village 98.7 makan place (Next to zebra crossing)

C u there....

http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww160/ManBusa/sbfsign_zpsfc1ff2d1.gif

If you look closely , you might see my bike in this picture

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hellloo everyone! just a noob question. i am now riding a R1, thinking of changing to a gen2 busa. really gian to get the gen 2 cause it looks reallllllyyy niceee =)) haha. and i saw you all talking about 1000cc bikes. why you all say busa is slower than a 1000cc bikes? tot busa is the king of the road!!! haha. just because its heavier? hmmm..

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3/6/2011

9pm till late

Changi Village 89.7 makan place (Next to zebra crossing)

 

going list : manbusa , bluefalcon ,vspeed,

pending : confused? uncle trublue? and the resT?

02- 03 - Nsr sp 150

03- 04 - Cbr 400

03- 05- YzF R1

04- 06 - Wave R

06- 06- YZF R1

06- 07 - lancer

07- 08 - civic ,08- 09 - Honda Fit,09- 09 - Spark 135

09- 10 - SPEC 2

10 - 11 - CIVIC , 11 - ?? - HayaBuSa

http://r9.fodey.com/2066/ef9c8a3140714894a5ef47796aa9b9aa.0.gifhttp://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f5/teamghoul/21052006.jpg

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hellloo everyone! just a noob question. i am now riding a R1, thinking of changing to a gen2 busa. really gian to get the gen 2 cause it looks reallllllyyy niceee =)) haha. and i saw you all talking about 1000cc bikes. why you all say busa is slower than a 1000cc bikes? tot busa is the king of the road!!! haha. just because its heavier? hmmm..

 

in term of pickup,i think busa really lose to 1000cc...

02- 03 - Nsr sp 150

03- 04 - Cbr 400

03- 05- YzF R1

04- 06 - Wave R

06- 06- YZF R1

06- 07 - lancer

07- 08 - civic ,08- 09 - Honda Fit,09- 09 - Spark 135

09- 10 - SPEC 2

10 - 11 - CIVIC , 11 - ?? - HayaBuSa

http://r9.fodey.com/2066/ef9c8a3140714894a5ef47796aa9b9aa.0.gifhttp://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f5/teamghoul/21052006.jpg

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3/6/2011

9pm till late

Changi Village 89.7 makan place (Next to zebra crossing)

 

going list : manbusa , bluefalcon ,vspeed,

pending : confused? uncle trublue? and the resT?

 

i should be able to make it..

If you have a heart that obeys your mind, you can win the whole world.

If you have a mind that obeys your heart, you can win the love of many hearts.

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But yesterday one wise friend told me this " Just open throttle more during low end lor and you still have USD228 inside your bank". hahaha.. quite true. And I am also afraid the gain might not be significant. I might just try using my DIY TRE to unlock the low end restriction to test the feeling first.

 

your friend is right bro, open throttle more.. better still lube your throttle cable more often than ever, so your twisting hand will be easier :D

 

if you read the US busa forum, those drag strip busa riders that do not use tre is quicker than those that do..

thats y i dont use the tre on my gen 2 (did use it on my gen 1 but i dont feel the difference in the lower gears, just bought it only for the top speed delimiter) , just my 2 cents....

If you have a heart that obeys your mind, you can win the whole world.

If you have a mind that obeys your heart, you can win the love of many hearts.

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hellloo everyone! just a noob question. i am now riding a R1, thinking of changing to a gen2 busa. really gian to get the gen 2 cause it looks reallllllyyy niceee =)) haha. and i saw you all talking about 1000cc bikes. why you all say busa is slower than a 1000cc bikes? tot busa is the king of the road!!! haha. just because its heavier? hmmm..

 

First of all, the Busa have a restriction at the 1st 3 gears, same goes to 600 and 750. What they do is retard the ignition timing. So your pick up is slowed down due to a less efficient combustion and more hesitation to built up rpm. Remember, higher rpm give you more torque and HP. Next is the heavier weight. All at the busa disadvantage. 1000cc usually have no restriction at the low end, so generally with the same throttle effort, the 1000cc will built up rpm faster. Generally you will feel it is quicker.

 

Give you an idea of how slow a busa can be. With the same amount of throttle, by the time you hit 6th gear, you may only reach 80kph. But for a 1000cc, can be easily over 100kph. Of course you can counter this problem by throttling more. But keep in mind, i'm just talking about normal pick up throttling in Singapore. Not WOT.

 

But busa is not neccassary slower than a 1000cc. It just that it only have a slow start. It will catch up when it RPM rises.

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your friend is right bro, open throttle more.. better still lube your throttle cable more often than ever, so your twisting hand will be easier :D

 

if you read the US busa forum, those drag strip busa riders that do not use tre is quicker than those that do..

thats y i dont use the tre on my gen 2 (did use it on my gen 1 but i dont feel the difference in the lower gears, just bought it only for the top speed delimiter) , just my 2 cents....

 

Haha, this is also why I am sourcing for any local guys who have it first but so far no one pm me. I know one guy have it, smsed him twice but no reply. Guess he is not interested.

 

Actually the timing retard is only at the lower rpm of the 1st 3 gear. It will go to the advanced timing at a higher rpm. Meaning at 1st, 2nd or 3rd gear, if you throttle more, there will be no restriction. So it will conform to my wise friend advise of just throttle more. Hahaha.

 

Maybe this is why those drag racer do not bother cause they only WOT. But I do know alot of busa in USA is having their ECU hack as well. This process is very popular there.

 

Ok, 99% not buying. Maybe time to consider buying the HJC R-Pha10 to replace my MHR FF.

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First of all, the Busa have a restriction at the 1st 3 gears, same goes to 600 and 750. What they do is retard the ignition timing. So your pick up is slowed down due to a less efficient combustion and more hesitation to built up rpm. Remember, higher rpm give you more torque and HP. Next is the heavier weight. All at the busa disadvantage. 1000cc usually have no restriction at the low end, so generally with the same throttle effort, the 1000cc will built up rpm faster. Generally you will feel it is quicker.

 

Give you an idea of how slow a busa can be. With the same amount of throttle, by the time you hit 6th gear, you may only reach 80kph. But for a 1000cc, can be easily over 100kph. Of course you can counter this problem by throttling more. But keep in mind, i'm just talking about normal pick up throttling in Singapore. Not WOT.

 

But busa is not neccassary slower than a 1000cc. It just that it only have a slow start. It will catch up when it RPM rises.

 

thanks bro! thats alot of info =) still looking out for one hahaha

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Not trying to make you angry or anything bro... Heheheee... but some of yr points there are wrong...

Like you, I too are a bit skeptical before I did this mod.Then I do my search on the subject and decided to go on with it.

 

1. G1 upper fork legs are not the same diameter from the busa, thus you need to either bore the OEM triple clamp or buy an after market triple clamp. Most people choose the first option because is cheaper but to me boring the OEM clamp bigger=reduction in strength. I don’t feel safe to do that.

 

All years GSXR 1000 & Hayabusa TOP triple clamp are the same diameter = 50mm.

 

The difference is on the BOTTOM triple clamp diameter.

Hayabusa ALL years diameter = 55mm

GSXR 1000 K3 - K6 diameter = 54mm

GSXR 1000 K7 - K8 diameter = 56mm

 

As you can see if you use the K7-K8 forks you need to bore the diameter by 1mm. If you use K3-K6 forks you need to add shim (to increase the diameter), as for my case I cut out REDBULL cans and use it as a shim to compensate for the 1mm difference.

 

The BEST option tho... is to use the GEN2 Hayabusa forks which required NO MOD at all!!

 

2. Lets say you managed to do step one, you need to change the spring to a higher rated spring because busa being heavier than G1, will bottom out the G1 springs and you will also not be able to get the correct static slag for your weight.

3. Lets say you also change the spring, than you need to change the valve used for compression and rebound setting because of the same reason as point number 2, due to busa’s weight heavier than G1

 

Spring Rate (kg/mm) Spring length

Hayabusa ALL Years = 0.85 250

GSXR 1000 K3-K4 = 0.85 230

GSXR 1000 K5-K6 = 0.95 250

GSXR 1000 K7-K8 = 0.97 238

 

Oerall Fork Lenght

Hayabusa ALL years = 725mm

GSXR 1000 K3-K8 = 720mm

 

As you can see the GSXR's spring rate is the same, if not, better than the busa's.

 

4. There is also the front fender issue as G1 fork does not fit busa’s fender and require a few DIY brackets but you can use back the G1 fender but may affect high speed stability

 

K3-K8 GSXR 1000's front fender can be use.No bracket or mod needed. Then again... Gen2 hayabusa is a straight bolt-on too!!!. (Anybody got GEN2 front fender for sale??? :) )

 

5. The last point is one which I’m not very sure until now. I think I read before somewhere that in order to complete this mod, you have to use G1 rims as the width of the wheel hub is not the same as busa and some people actually use bushings / washers to make it fit

 

As long as you USE BACK the oem triple clamps and wheel,there is NO NEED for bushings to keep the wheel alignment in place.

 

 

Once again ya bro Snake Sin, me no intention of making you angry or anything , just want to clear things up. No hard feeling ya....

 

I did the swap for me bike myself with helps from a few friends - No shops is involved.

Been to Thailand once, and numerous trips to KL with the set-up = Never regret on the mod. Go for it!!!!

I did the swap from the K3 1000 fork to the the Busa Gen2 forks today!!! No more "Red Bull cans" as spacer. I use the Bottom triple clamp too as it is much beefier than the Gen1's. Here's some pic that I manage to take... ( Sorry these are the only I have... Hands dirty lah from DIYing alone)

 

http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww160/ManBusa/98edbc0b.jpg http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww160/ManBusa/dfb80d2b.jpg http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww160/ManBusa/d72e71da.jpg

 

To those who wish to convert to radial brakes for better braking, I strongly recommend the Busa Gen2 forks WITH the Gen2 bottom triple clamp. Simple plug and play swap.

http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww160/ManBusa/sbfsign_zpsfc1ff2d1.gif

If you look closely , you might see my bike in this picture

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