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Posted (edited)

Double post

Edited by idun69

http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab31/mufarridun/395467_10151281899004118_1083329383_n_zps4299baea.jpg

 

You Will Bring Me Everywhere I Wanna Go :lovestruck:

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Posted
yup i know ah tak does it...n i guess he's da only one here who does...

 

May I know why do we need to re flash our ECU? Sorry newbie... Hehe

 

 

 

Sent from mobile device

Posted
Are u facing this 'hard start when hot' problem as well? Though I'm very new to busa, but I've too encountered this on my previous ride as well..

 

erm, for mine when engine cold- press the start button for 1 sec engine will start

when engine is hot, press for like 2-3 sec or sometimes 2nd try den can start

--- A twist of the wrist ---

Posted
arbine;7661486']erm, for mine when engine cold- press the start button for 1 sec engine will start

when engine is hot, press for like 2-3 sec or sometimes 2nd try den can start

 

Same here...

 

 

 

Sent from mobile device

Posted
Thanks for the heads up. The reason why I bought JISU is because it's big. For me, busa ain't looking good with small exhausts. And furthermore, it also resembles our stock exhaust abit.

 

Will post pictures definitely once fix.

Anyway, you have tried danmoto exhaust before?

 

 

 

Sent from mobile device

 

if im not wrong JISU is huge.. probably bigger than standard,but shorter. i manage to find only one video in youtube using JISU. im using the smallest danmoto provide. the GP extreme model. hehehe.. i was contemplating on getting the conical GP then spraying it black to go for the M4 look hehehehe.. but who cares as long as it has a hole and produce sound im good..

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d30/zulkickflip/Daretobediff.jpg
Posted
Well at least i noe im not the only one with the problem.. lol..seems to be charging fine.. voltage is up till 14.4 when its running seem pretty normal.. only when i turn it off and try to restart the bike den got problem.. the only way to restart while its hot is to openthrottle abit den can start.. will get it checked out tomorrow and see wat happens..

 

Since you said during running, volt is around 14.4V, the charging seems okay. My personal experience with faulty rectifier is the volt will become lower when there is a sudden surge in load, eg both fans on. Then when the fans off, the voltage will remains at the new low volt. The lowest I went is 7+V with meter off but bike still moving until it completely died.

 

However when you mentioned, when you crank start, the volt drop to 7~8, there are only 4 reasons I can think of,

 

1) Faulty battery. I not sure how heat affect the battery behaviour especially when hot.

2) Poor charging but since you said volt is around 14.4v during crusing, I'm ruling it out.

3) Higher than normal power comsuption during startup. Need to trace from battery to starter motor.

4) Current leakage? But you said, you tried starting immediately and it won't work. I doubt the leakage is that fast.

 

 

Which is why I still think your "new" battery might be your root cause. Usually the lowest I have seen during crank start is 9+v based on my previous battery. I have difficulty starting the bike when hot but that is only one time and I changed the battery after that since it getting old anyway. Nothing happen untill now.

Posted
arbine;7661486']erm, for mine when engine cold- press the start button for 1 sec engine will start

when engine is hot, press for like 2-3 sec or sometimes 2nd try den can start

 

Same here...

 

 

 

Sent from mobile device

 

Same here too...

 

We're not alone! Haha.. Jia lat.. Since my bike is going thru the top overhaul now, might as well check out with the mech bout this issue..

FR1930T - NSR 150 SP | FV5049R - Wave S 125 | FBC2986C - Spark 135T | FQ3319B - NSR 250 SE | FW37C - Kawasaki ZX6R | FBC7663X - Suzuki An125 | FV4801S - Piaggio X9 Almafi | FL70M - RSV4 Factory | FP9492Z - NSR 250 SP | FT3105K - Suzuki Hayabusa Gen 1

Posted (edited)
Since you said during running, volt is around 14.4V, the charging seems okay. My personal experience with faulty rectifier is the volt will become lower when there is a sudden surge in load, eg both fans on. Then when the fans off, the voltage will remains at the new low volt. The lowest I went is 7+V with meter off but bike still moving until it completely died.

 

However when you mentioned, when you crank start, the volt drop to 7~8, there are only 4 reasons I can think of,

 

1) Faulty battery. I not sure how heat affect the battery behaviour especially when hot.

2) Poor charging but since you said volt is around 14.4v during crusing, I'm ruling it out.

3) Higher than normal power comsuption during startup. Need to trace from battery to starter motor.

4) Current leakage? But you said, you tried starting immediately and it won't work. I doubt the leakage is that fast.

 

 

Which is why I still think your "new" battery might be your root cause. Usually the lowest I have seen during crank start is 9+v based on my previous battery. I have difficulty starting the bike when hot but that is only one time and I changed the battery after that since it getting old anyway. Nothing happen untill now.

 

This too happened on my previous ride with a new battery as well.. I doubt problem lies with battery?

Edited by vondy

FR1930T - NSR 150 SP | FV5049R - Wave S 125 | FBC2986C - Spark 135T | FQ3319B - NSR 250 SE | FW37C - Kawasaki ZX6R | FBC7663X - Suzuki An125 | FV4801S - Piaggio X9 Almafi | FL70M - RSV4 Factory | FP9492Z - NSR 250 SP | FT3105K - Suzuki Hayabusa Gen 1

Posted
Since you said during running, volt is around 14.4V, the charging seems okay. My personal experience with faulty rectifier is the volt will become lower when there is a sudden surge in load, eg both fans on. Then when the fans off, the voltage will remains at the new low volt. The lowest I went is 7+V with meter off but bike still moving until it completely died.

 

However when you mentioned, when you crank start, the volt drop to 7~8, there are only 4 reasons I can think of,

 

1) Faulty battery. I not sure how heat affect the battery behaviour especially when hot.

2) Poor charging but since you said volt is around 14.4v during crusing, I'm ruling it out.

3) Higher than normal power comsuption during startup. Need to trace from battery to starter motor.

4) Current leakage? But you said, you tried starting immediately and it won't work. I doubt the leakage is that fast.

 

 

Which is why I still think your "new" battery might be your root cause. Usually the lowest I have seen during crank start is 9+v based on my previous battery. I have difficulty starting the bike when hot but that is only one time and I changed the battery after that since it getting old anyway. Nothing happen untill now.

 

i did swap battery with a fren of mine as still has the problem.. n my fren doesnt have any issues with his bike using my battery.. so i can rule out the battery part already.. Gonna check out the coil n rectifier soon.. Thnks for ur help though.. very much appreciated.. :thumb:

http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab31/mufarridun/395467_10151281899004118_1083329383_n_zps4299baea.jpg

 

You Will Bring Me Everywhere I Wanna Go :lovestruck:

Posted
Ok thanks!! Will get it checked soon.. ive been reading from this forum.. http://www.hayabusa.org/forum/busa-problems/121805-starting-problems-start.html

 

but seems like the ts still cant find wats wrong although hes done a whole lot of stuff.. hopefully mine wont be like his..

 

Assuming that, you have followed the maintainance schedule of your bike to the letter and your bike is completely stock, you can download the Manual (Gen2) and check sections 1A-8 (Page 79 on pdf file) and 1G-4 (page 362 on pdf file). There is stated possible cause of your problem and what action can be taken.

 

Cheers!

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd117/keratsini/greece_bl.gif http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd117/keratsini/MyK8b.jpg
Posted

How long can a bike be on lay up?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Azmil Sempit

Past to present rides

 

Honda nsr sp 150 pro arm

Honda super4 ver s - yamaha rxz 135

Honda cbr 600 rr

Suzuki hayabusa 1300 - yamaha cygnus 125 - yamaha lc135 spark

Aprilia sr max 300 I.e

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2013/10/22/bikepics-2608839-full.jpg

Posted
Assuming that, you have followed the maintainance schedule of your bike to the letter and your bike is completely stock, you can download the Manual (Gen2) and check sections 1A-8 (Page 79 on pdf file) and 1G-4 (page 362 on pdf file). There is stated possible cause of your problem and what action can be taken.

 

Cheers!

 

Thanks bro!! Very much appreciated!! :thumb:

http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab31/mufarridun/395467_10151281899004118_1083329383_n_zps4299baea.jpg

 

You Will Bring Me Everywhere I Wanna Go :lovestruck:

Posted
i did swap battery with a fren of mine as still has the problem.. n my fren doesnt have any issues with his bike using my battery.. so i can rule out the battery part already.. Gonna check out the coil n rectifier soon.. Thnks for ur help though.. very much appreciated.. :thumb:

 

I see. Then it really something else then.

Posted
was it the normal m4 endcan type or was it the drag pipe??

 

It was the short type. Black colour...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi guys..any shop to recommend to purchase a busa 2012? Wats the price roughly? Thanks.. :)

 

Bike production?

 

 

 

Sent from mobile device

Posted

Guys, what are the chances of engine damage if I were to just take out my stock exhaust?

 

Or is it I just loose power only? I see YouTube comments and they say nothing wrong. Just that no power only but engine wise Ok.

 

 

 

Sent from mobile device

Posted
Hi guys..any shop to recommend to purchase a busa 2012? Wats the price roughly? Thanks.. :)

 

I heard its about $32k ? Correct me if I'm wrong.. I know most shops are offering about the same price, just go to 1 that u're familiar with can liao..

FR1930T - NSR 150 SP | FV5049R - Wave S 125 | FBC2986C - Spark 135T | FQ3319B - NSR 250 SE | FW37C - Kawasaki ZX6R | FBC7663X - Suzuki An125 | FV4801S - Piaggio X9 Almafi | FL70M - RSV4 Factory | FP9492Z - NSR 250 SP | FT3105K - Suzuki Hayabusa Gen 1

Posted
Guys, what are the chances of engine damage if I were to just take out my stock exhaust?

 

Or is it I just loose power only? I see YouTube comments and they say nothing wrong. Just that no power only but engine wise Ok.

 

 

 

Sent from mobile device

 

You mean ride without exhaust ?! :giddy:

FR1930T - NSR 150 SP | FV5049R - Wave S 125 | FBC2986C - Spark 135T | FQ3319B - NSR 250 SE | FW37C - Kawasaki ZX6R | FBC7663X - Suzuki An125 | FV4801S - Piaggio X9 Almafi | FL70M - RSV4 Factory | FP9492Z - NSR 250 SP | FT3105K - Suzuki Hayabusa Gen 1

Posted

Yes yes... Gen 2 there's 3 bolts that can take out. So left the header and the mid pipe. Try searching YouTube : Stock Hayabusa Exhaust no mufflers.

 

 

 

Sent from mobile device

Posted

Yes yes... Gen 2 there's 3 bolts that can take out. So left the header and the mid pipe. Try searching YouTube : Stock Hayabusa Exhaust no mufflers.

 

 

 

Sent from mobile device

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