VFR 800

[Maverick77]

Yup, u told me abt the starting prob... Will change batt soon...

 

Now the temp prob. Saw the posting of how to flush coolant from VFRD web... Just a qn to ask. Can we open the nut w/o taking out the oil filter?

 

From the web, the nut seems to be below the headers... Front left if u're sitting on the bike... Anyone else can verify?

[none]

Originally posted by Maverick77@Dec 6 2005, 11:54 PM

This is the phenomenon(symtoms) that I encounter:

 

When I'm riding, even when my bike is on the move, w/o much traffic in front of me, the bike temp keeps going up... At certain temps, esp between 98-104, the temp sometimes go this way, 98-99-100-98-99-100-98-99-100... It keeps going like this if traffic in front of me is clear... If there's traffic, it'll keep going up by also in similar behaviour... 102-103-104-103-104-105-104-105-106... This symtom seems to go away whenever I top up the reserve coolant tank. But whenever, I'm toping up coolant into the reserve, the coolant just keep overflowing out...

 

Anyone encountered this before? I've read something abt the coolant valve or something like that being jam...

 

Was adviced to flush coolant but has got no time to do it but will give it a try. Does anyone know the location of the screw that I have to take out which is near the oil filter? I only know the one near the gear lever...

 

Pls help... Feels irritating to keep watching the temp meter when I'm riding...

Looks like the same problem that I had encountered last time.

One possible cause is that the thermostat is failing.

(It was jammed and does not open wide enough to circulate the coolant).

Another will be air bubbles trap inside the cooling system.

 

But what I did the last time, was to flush the coolent.

Remember to clear all the air bubbles first before capping the radiator.

Clean the cap and screw before putting them back.

 

It's optional to take off the front nut, I normally just remove the side bolt (near the side stand) for a quick job.

[Simon Soh]

Originally posted by none@Dec 7 2005, 08:14 AM

Looks like the same problem that I had encountered last time.

One possible cause is that the thermostat is failing.

(It was jammed and does not open wide enough to circulate the coolant).

Another will be air bubbles trap inside the cooling system.

 

But what I did the last time, was to flush the coolent.

Remember to clear all the air bubbles first before capping the radiator.

Clean the cap and screw before putting them back.

 

It's optional to take off the front nut, I normally just remove the side bolt (near the side stand) for a quick job.

 

dun mind me to KPO, I cant hold back to reply when I saw this.

 

99.99999% is jammed thermostat or faulty, leaking of pressure unable activate it's valve to perform heat transfer during operating temperature.

 

to rectify it u need to remove the thermostat from it's housing & do a complete radiator flush, then after replace it back but make sure it's in good condition with valve properly closed without any corroded surface contact. I would suggest u spend a little to solve it once for all by replacing a new thermostat.

 

after u have done so, ALWAYS use distilled water to mix with ur coolant.

 

hope it helps.

[Pauche]

Originally posted by Simon Soh@Dec 7 2005, 08:29 AM

dun mind me to KPO, I cant hold back to reply when I saw this.

 

99.99999% is jammed thermostat or faulty, leaking of pressure unable activate it's valve to perform heat transfer during operating temperature.

 

to rectify it u need to remove the thermostat from it's housing & do a complete radiator flush, then after replace it back but make sure it's in good condition with valve properly closed without any corroded surface contact. I would suggest u spend a little to solve it once for all by replacing a new thermostat.

 

after u have done so, ALWAYS use distilled water to mix with ur coolant.

 

hope it helps.

DIY better, cos motor tiam tends to use tap water.... instead of distilled water.

[vfr-shah]

Originally posted by HamsterZ@Dec 6 2005, 07:28 PM

I have tried 5W oils on different bikes and it is much better based on what the bike is used for.

 

Personally i tried 3 different oils on my VFR, and 3 oils for the R1. After close inspection of the oil by different mileages of drainage I decided on the oil i am using though.

 

Hamz, just wandering what 3 different type or brand of oil are you using? isit 5W50 or 10W40? In your opinion which is better?

[vfrT]

Originally posted by Maverick77@Dec 6 2005, 11:54 PM

Hi everyone,

 

Got a prob with my bike's cooling sys... Hope can explain clearly over the forum...

 

Basically since I forgot to top up my coolant water the last time and caused my coolant level to run low, this problem has persisted.

 

This is the phenomenon(symtoms) that I encounter:

 

When I'm riding, even when my bike is on the move, w/o much traffic in front of me, the bike temp keeps going up... At certain temps, esp between 98-104, the temp sometimes go this way, 98-99-100-98-99-100-98-99-100... It keeps going like this if traffic in front of me is clear... If there's traffic, it'll keep going up by also in similar behaviour... 102-103-104-103-104-105-104-105-106... This symtom seems to go away whenever I top up the reserve coolant tank. But whenever, I'm toping up coolant into the reserve, the coolant just keep overflowing out...

 

Anyone encountered this before? I've read something abt the coolant valve or something like that being jam...

 

Was adviced to flush coolant but has got no time to do it but will give it a try. Does anyone know the location of the screw that I have to take out which is near the oil filter? I only know the one near the gear lever...

 

Pls help... Feels irritating to keep watching the temp meter when I'm riding...

I did a complete flush a month ago as routine annual maintenance, so the trial and error is still fresh.

 

Before the flush, radiator fan kicks in at 100~101 deg. After the flush, it would not kick in even at 108C. So I did a test of the radiator thermostat fan switch and pronounced it dead. So I replaced the fan switch. Again it did not kick in until about 106C.

 

I figured maybe I got some air lock just below the fan switch where it screwed to the radiator. So I partially unscrewed the fan switch while blipping on the running engine. This expels lots of air as seen by bubbling. After that I screw the fan switch back down. Now the fan kicks in at about 101C... and I got myself a redundant old but working radiator fan switch!

 

Tip #1: So do a proper air bleed when you do a flush - both from the radiator cap and fan switch location.

 

Tip #2: Do not to let the coolant reservoir tank run dry so that air will not be sucked into the system - causing all those air lock problems.

 

On Mave's question "Now the temp prob. Saw the posting of how to flush coolant from VFRD web... Just a qn to ask. Can we open the nut w/o taking out the oil filter?" Yes, you need to take out the oil filter to reach that nut. So its convenient to do an oil and oil filter change at the same time to save time. Of course you can just take out the oil filter - but you need to top up the small oil quantity held in the filter altho the EO in the crankcase will remain undrained.

[vfrT]

Originally posted by vfr-shah@Dec 7 2005, 10:01 AM

Hamz, just wandering what 3 different type or brand of oil are you using? isit 5W50 or 10W40? In your opinion which is better?

Hamz, Hope u dont mind I potong jalan on this Q.

 

I alternate between Mobil M1 10W40 and 15W50 full syn oil. Currently on the latter. found it makes the engine sound quieter than the lighter grade. Duhh me -its higher viscosity see. However I see an increase in fuel consumption from 17km/l to 16km/L. . Protection wise I have no problem with either grade except that the lighter 10W40 would make the rev livier.

[vfr-shah]

Originally posted by vfrT@Dec 7 2005, 01:37 PM

Hamz, Hope u dont mind I potong jalan on this Q.

 

I alternate between Mobil M1 10W40 and 20W50 full syn oil. Currently on the latter. found it makes the engine sound quieter than the lighter grade. Duhh me -its higher viscosity see. However I see an increase in fuel consumption from 17km/l to 16km/L. . Protection wise I have no problem with either grade except that the lighter 10W40 would make the rev livier.

So where do you guys get Mobil M1?At what price?

[HamsterZ]

Originally posted by vfrT@Dec 7 2005, 01:27 PM

I did a complete flush a month ago as routine annual maintenance, so the trial and error is still fresh.

 

Before the flush, radiator fan kicks in at 100~101 deg. After the flush, it would not kick in even at 108C. So I did a test of the radiator thermostat fan switch and pronounced it dead. So I replaced the fan switch. Again it did not kick in until about 106C.

 

I figured maybe I got some air lock just below the fan switch where it screwed to the radiator. So I partially unscrewed the fan switch while blipping on the running engine. This expels lots of air as seen by bubbling. After that I screw the fan switch back down. Now the fan kicks in at about 101C... and I got myself a redundant old but working radiator fan switch!

 

Tip #1: So do a proper air bleed when you do a flush - both from the radiator cap and fan switch location.

 

Tip #2: Do not to let the coolant reservoir tank run dry so that air will not be sucked into the system - causing all those air lock problems.

 

On Mave's question "Now the temp prob. Saw the posting of how to flush coolant from VFRD web... Just a qn to ask. Can we open the nut w/o taking out the oil filter?" Yes, you need to take out the oil filter to reach that nut. So its convenient to do an oil and oil filter change at the same time to save time. Of course you can just take out the oil filter - but you need to top up the small oil quantity held in the filter altho the EO in the crankcase will remain undrained.

sorry to interupt.. but i might have a correction based on the last coolant change I did in May 2005.

 

You need not remove the oil filter to remove the small nut at the front. It is at a weird location, but i still managed to remove the nut via a 1/8" sized socket wrench and a 8mm socket.

 

My 2 cents worth...

 

Question

How did you guys do an air bleed? What i did was basically continuous reving of engine till ti bubbles...cool in down adn repeat the cycle to "eject" the trapped airs within the coolant path before capping back. I wish to have more informations as i am still an infant to coolant change

 

 

Thanks

[HamsterZ]

Originally posted by vfr-shah@Dec 7 2005, 10:01 AM

Hamz, just wandering what 3 different type or brand of oil are you using? isit 5W50 or 10W40? In your opinion which is better?

1. Repsol 10W40 (thin and increased rev response...but drained out at 1750km.. need I say more?)

 

2. FuchS 15W50 (great!! Tried from 5000~8000km at 1000km intervals before draining and still remain its viscousity, minimal dis-coloration/breakdown)

 

3. Maxima 5W50 (Feels thinner than no.3 oil, great revving also. but i can't change from gear smoothly between 1-neutral-2 at really HOT HOT temps & jams. Drained at about 4000km

 

4. Maxima 15W50 (similar to no.2 oil used not as revvy as no.3 oil. Feels slightly thinner in general compared to FuchS. Drained at 6000km)

 

My final choice is either the Maxima 15W50 or FucHS 15W50. IMHO, the FuchS last longer and is more forgiving in heated situation. The Maxima is great in revs(yeah track!!!) but prob a little back on the durability.

 

Sorry I tried 4 in total not 3.. think my memories failing hhmm..

 

 

 

My opinion is, there isn't a good best oil for everyone. But generally i felt a thinner oil somehows gives me greater satisfaction if I like to "play" my bike funnly! And a thicker oil somehows gives me a better state mind in the durability category. It all depends on your bike make/model and your personal type of riding. My R1 feels good on thinner oils!

 

Try different oils if your budget allows (which means if you really find something wrong or dunt like it, please drain them out).. this way, you can base on our/or any other's opinions with respect to your own riding, make a comparison upon your own usage. This way the result & decison of which oils would probably be much more useful.

 

Hope i con't confuse anyone

[HamsterZ]

Originally posted by vfrT@Dec 7 2005, 01:37 PM

Hamz, Hope u dont mind I potong jalan on this Q.

 

I alternate between Mobil M1 10W40 and 20W50 full syn oil. Currently on the latter. found it makes the engine sound quieter than the lighter grade. Duhh me -its higher viscosity see. However I see an increase in fuel consumption from 17km/l to 16km/L. . Protection wise I have no problem with either grade except that the lighter 10W40 would make the rev livier.

Yesh, i also encountered a slightly noiser with a lighter EO, which basically much boils down to a higher viscousity whihc "damps" the engine vibration sound.

 

(NOTE : I have tried 2 diff oils with same SAE ratings yet 1 feels thinner than the other)

 

 

 

 

As for the consumption category.. I have no comments. On paper theoretically, a thicker substance will need more energy to to push through a channel (eg.. ur brake fluid..)

 

1km/liter is prob a variance due to too many factors. I tried lowering my idling rpm and waola!!! the mileage increased. Try swithcin off your bike at every traffic light when red... it differs too...

 

 

 

In the temp category, I am still not convinced how much the oil would contribute to the increase or decrease... i used a thinner oil and yet the temps sometimes increase or decrease... still a question. But my friend suggested a much better way to jude the "temp reading" on your gauge... that is to read it at close to static state as close as possible (which is kinda difficult in SG traffic... which then sort of turns me down when bikers coments abt bad temp effect in SG riding... no offence to anyone.. sorry)

 

 

So in conclusion... I have still pretty skeptical on how diff SAE graded oils EO affects temp reading on the gauges. Prob till I can fidn how to reduce the no. of variable then prob i can share more...

 

my 2 cents worth...

[Maverick77]

Originally posted by none@Dec 7 2005, 08:14 AM

Looks like the same problem that I had encountered last time.

One possible cause is that the thermostat is failing.

(It was jammed and does not open wide enough to circulate the coolant).

Another will be air bubbles trap inside the cooling system.

 

But what I did the last time, was to flush the coolent.

Remember to clear all the air bubbles first before capping the radiator.

Clean the cap and screw before putting them back.

 

It's optional to take off the front nut, I normally just remove the side bolt (near the side stand) for a quick job.

1st qn... How to get rid of air bubbles? Is it just to rev and let go and let the air bubbles come out naturally? Or can jus run the engine for a while with rad cap open?

 

2nd qn... I dun have the manual so where is the thermo stat? At the RHS/LHS rad or somewhere else? So if I understand correctly, it shld be just flushing the rad will bring the thermostat working properly...

[Maverick77]

Originally posted by vfrT@Dec 7 2005, 01:27 PM

I did a complete flush a month ago as routine annual maintenance, so the trial and error is still fresh.

 

Before the flush, radiator fan kicks in at 100~101 deg. After the flush, it would not kick in even at 108C. So I did a test of the radiator thermostat fan switch and pronounced it dead. So I replaced the fan switch. Again it did not kick in until about 106C.

 

I figured maybe I got some air lock just below the fan switch where it screwed to the radiator. So I partially unscrewed the fan switch while blipping on the running engine. This expels lots of air as seen by bubbling. After that I screw the fan switch back down. Now the fan kicks in at about 101C... and I got myself a redundant old but working radiator fan switch!

 

Tip #1: So do a proper air bleed when you do a flush - both from the radiator cap and fan switch location.

 

Tip #2: Do not to let the coolant reservoir tank run dry so that air will not be sucked into the system - causing all those air lock problems.

 

On Mave's question "Now the temp prob. Saw the posting of how to flush coolant from VFRD web... Just a qn to ask. Can we open the nut w/o taking out the oil filter?" Yes, you need to take out the oil filter to reach that nut. So its convenient to do an oil and oil filter change at the same time to save time. Of course you can just take out the oil filter - but you need to top up the small oil quantity held in the filter altho the EO in the crankcase will remain undrained.

I also have the prob that the fan kicks in at different temp... when I first got it 105, then suddenly 107 then recently even 112... I guess what u guys told me is correct...

 

Hamz has asked how to do air bleed... I need to know where the thermostat fan switch can be found... How to take out?

[jovan]

i gt a Question too...normally when yr fan is ON....do u all switch off the ignition straigth or wait until the fan goes off itself...

 

i normalyl wait until it goes off itself...

 

think nxt time i will try FUCH oil..

 

*off topic sory last time always use respsol oil...on my superfour....it can last until at 5000km...still not bad..the EO is smooth n quiet..

[none]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/en0n/helmet/cooling.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/en0n/helmet/drain.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/en0n/helmet/switch.jpg

[vfrT]

Originally posted by Maverick77@Dec 7 2005, 05:28 PM

... I need to know where the thermostat fan switch can be found... How to take out?

The fan switch is mounted on the top of the left radiator. If you are air-bleeding, just loosen it a few turns just enuf for the bubbles to eject. See None's diagram copied here for what the switch look like.

[vfrT]

Originally posted by vfr-shah@Dec 7 2005, 02:38 PM

So where do you guys get Mobil M1?At what price?

I get mine from whoever gives the best price, LAB, auction @yahoo.com.sg or ebay.sg. LAB sells at $15 for 1L of 10W40 - this is specifically branded as 4t motorcycle oil.

 

I bought a 6x 1Qt pack carton of 15W50 off a guy on ebay for $88.

 

There is someone now asking for $68 for 4x1Qt 15W50 on ttp://page.auctions.yahoo.com/sg/auction/90621900

 

I find no diff between so called motorcycle specific and auto eo.

[vfrT]

Originally posted by Maverick77@Dec 7 2005, 05:18 PM

1st qn... How to get rid of air bubbles? Is it just to rev and let go and let the air bubbles come out naturally? Or can jus run the engine for a while with rad cap open?

 

2nd qn... I dun have the manual so where is the thermo stat? At the RHS/LHS rad or somewhere else? So if I understand correctly, it shld be just flushing the rad will bring the thermostat working properly...

1st qn... How to get rid of air bubbles? Is it just to rev and let go and let the air bubbles come out naturally? Or can jus run the engine for a while with rad cap open?

 

This from Honda factory service manual:

 

[Remove the radiator reserve tank cap and fill the reserve tank to the upper level line.

Bleed air from the system as follows (with the radiator cap off - mine quote)

1. Shift the transmission to neutral. Start the engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes.

2. Snap the throttle 3-4 times to bleed air from the system.

3.Stop the engine and add coolant up to the proper level if necessary. Reinstall the radiator cap.

4. check the level of coolant inthe reserve tank and fill to the upper level if it is too low.]

 

2nd qn... I dun have the manual so where is the thermo stat? At the RHS/LHS rad or somewhere else? So if I understand correctly, it shld be just flushing the rad will bring the thermostat working properly...

 

I assume you are referring to the fan switch - this is on the top of the left radiator. Its my fault for calling it a thermostat fan switch. There is another thermostat that controls the water flow once engine has reach normal operating temperatur - this is situated in the valley between the two banks of cyclinders. You dont want/need to go there for this exercise keke.

[HamsterZ]

Originally posted by vfrT@Dec 7 2005, 10:18 PM

1st qn... How to get rid of air bubbles? Is it just to rev and let go and let the air bubbles come out naturally? Or can jus run the engine for a while with rad cap open?

 

This from Honda factory service manual:

 

[Remove the radiator reserve tank cap and fill the reserve tank to the upper level line.

Bleed air from the system as follows (with the radiator cap off - mine quote)

1. Shift the transmission to neutral. Start the engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes.

2. Snap the throttle 3-4 times to bleed air from the system.

3.Stop the engine and add coolant up to the proper level if necessary. Reinstall the radiator cap.

4. check the level of coolant inthe reserve tank and fill to the upper level if it is too low.]

 

2nd qn... I dun have the manual so where is the thermo stat? At the RHS/LHS rad or somewhere else? So if I understand correctly, it shld be just flushing the rad will bring the thermostat working properly...

 

I assume you are referring to the fan switch - this is on the top of the left radiator. Its my fault for calling it a thermostat fan switch. There is another thermostat that controls the water flow once engine has reach normal operating temperatur - this is situated in the valley between the two banks of cyclinders. You dont want/need to go there for this exercise keke.

I did this exact same instructions form the manual which you have stated.. so far so good. No difference in performance from before coolant change. i was just wundering if there is a different or should I rephrase.. a more effective method.!

 

Thanks vfrT

[Guest enHANZed]

Originally posted by vfrT@Dec 7 2005, 09:58 PM

I get mine from whoever gives the best price, LAB, auction @yahoo.com.sg or ebay.sg. LAB sells at $15 for 1L of 10W40 - this is specifically branded as 4t motorcycle oil.

 

I bought a 6x 1Qt pack carton of 20W50 off a guy on ebay for $88.

 

There is someone now asking for $68 for 4x1Qt 15W50 on ttp://page.auctions.yahoo.com/sg/auction/90621900

 

I find no diff between so called motorcycle specific and auto eo.

bro how long have u been using " car" engine oil ? i wanted to try it but dunt dare to ...M1 claims to be able to last 15k miles ...have u run that far on it b4 ? can comment more thanks

[vfrT]

Originally posted by HamsterZ@Dec 7 2005, 10:45 PM

I did this exact same instructions form the manual which you have stated.. so far so good. No difference in performance from before coolant change. i was just wundering if there is a different or should I rephrase.. a more effective method.!

 

Thanks vfrT

I am sure there is a more effective way. The factory manual assumes their Honda mechanics knows their stuff and do not give tips on the better way. I find that the Haynes manual on the other hand gives such the-books-didnt-teach-you tips. Combining both and some elbow grease gives you more experience AND of course the spirit of exchange on this VFR forum!

[vfrT]

Originally posted by HamsterZ@Dec 7 2005, 10:45 PM

I did this exact same instructions form the manual which you have stated.. so far so good. No difference in performance from before coolant change. i was just wundering if there is a different or should I rephrase.. a more effective method.!

 

Thanks vfrT

I am sure there is a more effective way. The factory manual assumes their Honda mechanics knows their stuff and do not give tips on the better way. I find that the Haynes manual on the other hand gives such the-books-didnt-teach-you tips. Combining both and some elbow grease gives you more experience AND of course the spirit of exchange on this VFR forum!

[vfrT]

Originally posted by enHANZed@Dec 7 2005, 11:13 PM

bro how long have u been using " car" engine oil ? i wanted to try it but dunt dare to ...M1 claims to be able to last 15k miles ...have u run that far on it b4 ? can comment more thanks

I have been using the same M1 on my bikes and cars for the last 2 decades. No problem. All japanese vehicles tho. You need to check if it works for you esp for european brand bikes, I understand some BMW R series bikes dont take too well to synths.

 

I used to change every 4months and 6000km but got lazy and nowI change at 10,000km or 6 months. I feel confident that it can run higher mileage, but running in Sg is considered harsh condition due to the short distance and frequent stop and start. This prevent the engine/oil from purging the waste bye products.

[Maverick77]

Thnx guys for the helpful feedback... Looks like I've to do it after my trip.

 

Lucky got a bunch of helpful and knowledgeable fellow vfr riders...

[Guest enHANZed]

Originally posted by vfrT@Dec 7 2005, 11:39 PM

I have been using the same M1 on my bikes and cars for the last 2 decades. No problem. All japanese vehicles tho. You need to check if it works for you esp for european brand bikes, I understand some BMW R series bikes dont take too well to synths.

 

I used to change every 4months and 6000km but got lazy and nowI change at 10,000km or 6 months. I feel confident that it can run higher mileage, but running in Sg is considered harsh condition due to the short distance and frequent stop and start. This prevent the engine/oil from purging the waste bye products.

today i juz changed to maxima ...damage $70